maxvertical

Fully enclosed! Wow! I like that idea. Thanks for the great picture, certainly helps in getting fresh ideas.
Also like your idea of securing the antenna connection

Chris

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chris,

Thanks, Thats perfect. I am building a small R(44), and I will probably do the tips like that.

Regards

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chris,

Yes, the Weatronic RX has two antennas, because it has two receivers. Weatronic recommend that one be a whip and the other a normal wire. I cut the first one by the length of the whip, ( I got it from DreamworksRC). the uncut portion is laid under the batteries. This is the way I had my original Futaba RX antenna. The antenna is mounted on a piece of fibreglass plate, and exits through the canopy.
The other normal wire runs to the top of the model and exits through a short piece of nyrod. See the first photo in previous post.
I am just packing up to go to the field, (it is a beautiful day in Sydney), So I will soon be able to report on the Weatronic perrformance, and at last, the top speed of my R54.

Regards

causeitflies

I made a small bracket for the revolution that's held in place by the hatch and stowed along side the servo wires.
One time I got in a hurry and forgot to mount it but didn't notice until after I landed[sm=red_smile.gif]

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

First flight with the Weatronic RX in my Reaction today. Extra long range check, over 100 paces with the Futaba 9ZAP antenna colapsed to just one section, Same with tthe engine running.
No failsafe frames, #1 RX antenna (whip) used the whole flight, and 267 KPH (approx 166 MPH) straight and level from a level turn.

Next time I will dive into the speed run!!!.


Regards

maxvertical

Tom, 166 is pretty smokin good for a straight pass! Guess that's because you have that wonderful SS powering. Great pictures by the way, was much greener than I though it would be since you guys have been so dry. I suppose that Weaver also give you altitude, so now you'll know how high outta sight is!

Lots of great ideas on the antenna mount. I guess feeding the whip through the hatch hasn't presented any issues? Will keep all the options open for now. Well, it's back to glassing the wingtips for me!

Chris

BruceTharpe

My Feedback: (1)

One word of caution: I've had two builders lose their canopy/hatch in flight. Both admit that they probably didn't latch it properly because there was no sign of wood, glue, or latch failure. Both landed safely. When installing any equipment, make sure it doesn't depend on the hatch staying in place. Be aware of the chance, however remote, that the hatch could depart in flight, and think about what might happen if that occurs. BTW, this is a good practice for any model, not just the R54.

causeitflies

Good point Bruce. Ive already thought of a couple ways to remedy that situation.

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

Way to go Tommy!
Gotta love that Super Sport!

Dave

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Dave,

I really don't want to dive with full power. I guess I will just have to be happy with 166.

I am just about to start on the little R44. Hope it goes as well as yours.

Regards

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

I flew my "re-worked" Reaction 54 over the weekend at the California Jets rally in Bakersfield, Ca. I normally wouldn't want to display an unfinished project needing paint at a jet rally but I determined it was a completely airworthy jet and so I brought it along. I didn't fly at the same time as the other two Reaction 54's (Bob from Seattle and John from Nor Cal) becasue amazingly enough, we were all on Channel 21!

I flew it pretty conservatively this weekend but I can tell it behaves nicely and doesn't have any unusual characteristics from what I can gather as a result of the canopy and the inlets as compared to the other two very nice stock R54's that flew. I was pleasantly suprised to see how sporty it can get on a P-60. The airframe just looks huge compared to that engine! John's Simjet 1200 powered R54 is an animal though - 18 pounds fo thrust and you can tell.

I don't know what the exact weight gain is for the mod but I can estimate the balsa inlets, turtle deck and glass/primer on the forward fuse didn't add more than about 12 ounces or so, and I did take out 6 ounces of lead from the nose when it was all said and done (added a few ounces back from the 8 oz I took out originally) to compensate for the 90 percent of the added structure that was well ahead of the CG. So maybe 6 ounces weight gain so far?

So now the task at hand is to get the extra heavy coat of primer on the fuse all sanded down, and then paint. I'll also be painting over the new Monokote on the wings in addition to the fuse. I'll be using "WarbirdColors" fuel proof water based paint, very light coats as usual. WarbirdColors has been used extensively over Monokote to good effect by others, and the glass fuse will be a no brainer to cover. I also have a basic cockpit tub and pilot I'll be adding under the canopy, maybe I can take out a little more lead in place of the pilot and cockpit

maxvertical

Hey Mark, How have those inlets been treating you? Wondering if you would do anything different if you had to do over. Still think the way you did yours is one of the nicest I've seen. Keep toying with the idea, but am so far behind now on this project. I suppose it wouldn't take that long to add them and sure makes the airplane look nice.

Chris

causeitflies

I think I would have made the inlet openings just a tiny bit smaller as I think they may be slowing me down with some drag.

I finally remembered to try my "CROW" the other day. I just tried it up high and expected to lose some lift but was surprised when the plane shot "UP" instead. I have very little elevator mixed with my flaps but I'll have to mix some down with the crow for sure. It did slow way down of course but it already lands like a Kadet Senior and any slower will be like a trying to land a balloon!

maxvertical

Hey Bob, sorry I couldn't get those pictures to you. Figure I will just post here and hope for the best. I hate to show work before it's done. So you have to keep in mind that some of the goodies shown here are far from complete. Items I'm currently working with are the ones without paint, all having to do with hardware and guts. As I wrote before, ECU box is a mod to keep the ECU battery as far forward as possible, also using Robo struts so made a mod to H3 to accommodate. H3 appears stiffer, stronger than before the modification so won't worry with that. Air tanks for retracts and brakes are farther forward than Bruce shows on the plan and this is to accommodate the propane bottle on the retract side, while the fuel pump sits under the ECU shelf on the side of the brake tank. The ECU goes in the Boat tail and the servo's for rudder and elevator are also relocated to that area. The servo tray will now be home to the electronic valves for propane and JetA, along with manual shutoff valve. Forward area is where the electronics live, Smartfly regulator and Power expander, twin six cell 3800Nimh flight packs along with the standard ECU battery. The blank plate in the center section is where the air systems valves will go, along with fill ports and gauges. Coming together real nice.

Chris

BalsaBob

My Feedback: (24)

I read an earlier post (that I can no longer find) regarding using Robart struts (for the mains) instead of the stock wire. Their length had to be cut a bit ..... but once cut, they could be used with the stock retract units that are supplied with the kit. Wondering which Robart struts would be best suited for this. Thanks. Bob

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Bob,
Funny you should post this question. I just started to look into changing my wire gear out for some nice struts. I've had my share of not so great landings and once that wire bends, it's over even if you follow up with smooth landings they will still bend. I might try to re-temper the wire first as a friend told me how to do it while I was complaining about re-bending my gear after each flight. The Robart 661 struts seem to be the ones that would fit as they are 7/16" like the stock gear. They are advertised for planes up to 18lbs. which seems a little too close for me but hopefully someone has some real world experience with these.

http://robart.com/RoboStruts/440_Series.aspx

Marty

bob1393

My Feedback: (10)

The Robart 661's work just fine. I have over 30 flights on them, including some hard landings, and they have never bent. You will need to shorten them, but that is very easy to do with a Dremel cut off wheel. I just left the 3/16 music wire on the nose gear and did not put on a strut.

Bob

maxvertical

BalsaBob, what I used on mine is listed below. Yes, you have to cut all three down to just about the minimum but they do look and work nice. I didn't cut the nose gear down as radically as listed in the earlier posts, so I ended up notching H-3 for the nose to clear, but made a box/plate to go around the notch so that H-3 would still be strong and not flex. I also ended up using a smaller nose wheel than the mains, but it works great, and looks even better. I ordered my gear from Robart "through my local dealer", back in January and got them in mid March, so be careful who you order them from. Robart is very slow on doing just about anything... Just ask Bruce...

That post for the gear mod is on page 50, post #1246

This is what I put in
Robostruts, 660 series
660 for main gear
661LH for nose gear LH offset,
Retract Units 550 series
550RS for the mains
563RS for nose The 563RS should be the steerable 100 degree retract unit.

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Bob,

I just ordered the 661's from Omni models. They carry more Robart struts than Tower and they are cheaper than ordering direct from Robart. They say they are in stock. Just an FYI.

Marty

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

Can anyone give me a good lowdown on fuel tanks for the Reaction:

I have the 50 oz tank with the clunk pointing AFT as built. The plans seem to call for the clunk to point forward. What is the background on this forward versus rear pointing clunk, there seems to have been a bit of a debate earlier in the thread...

I am also looking to potentially up the tank size if I go with a bigger engine, I recall reading about some flying the model with the 70 ounce option? The plane flies GREAT on a P-60 but I have a Tam A-4 that I'll buy an install kit for and if so I may go up to a P-70 or Supersport/Simjet 1200 and swap the engine between the two depending on the mood.

Thanks in advance to all the Reaction guys out there.

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

I use a Kevlar tank from gary muller. close to two litres. I fly my wren supersport for 8 minutes and still have about 1/4 of the tank left. fits perfectly.

see previous posts from myself and dave rigotti

Regards

maxvertical

The Jet Tech tank can't be beat. Very nice unit but does cost.
Here is the link to the page, I think the R54 tank is about the third one down on the list. I opted for the BVM fittings and glad I did. Very high quality unit. Will also install in the aircraft with clunk aft in the more conventional manner. The plan's way is the simple way with UAT in the boat tail, but I've never been good at doing things the easy way.


[link]http://www.angelfire.com/wi/jettech/page2.html[/link]

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

I agree about the BVM fittings , bulletproof, and get the BVM fuel tube for inside the tank.

regards

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I'm using the dubro 50 oz with a rearward facing clunk and I added a sullivan 16 oz under the front canopy/hatch. My P-60 must be in gas guzzler mode cause I'm landing after five minutes and that's just leaving me with enough left for a go around, maybe two. One time I went about seven minutes due to a full scale needing to taxi past us. I loitered at 1/3 throttle and made it in on fumes. She flamed out as I was just about to taxi back to the pits. The UAT was bone dry .

Marty

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

I can personally endorse the Jet Tech tank! :-))

Dave