New DLE 35
07-12-2013, 03:39 AM
#327
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: AA5BY
To gain better linearity, there are a couple of options. One is to mechanically configure the linkage and the other is to do a transmitter work around. The mechanical method is harder to do as well as difficult to set the throttle kill switch if one is used.
The transmitter method is done by noting and adding the up & down throw percentages and while maintaining the total sum, changing the values so that the low throttle percentage is about half of what the upper is. The reason it works is that below half stick controls the low percentage and above half stick the high. That means with the low set half the value as the up, the lower half of stick travel controls much less of the servo travel and thereby increases the servo resolution for the lower half, whereby the upper half of the stick controls twice as much servo travel than the low and has less resolution.
The effect is better linearity with more ease to adjust the idle and more ease to jockey the throttle for the correct power when landing.
ORIGINAL: WI53072
Guys,
I am well on my way with my DLE 35RA everything works very well idle to full throttle no hick-ups and I have several introductory flights on the plane now. However, I have a few follow up questions. I am wondering if it is preferred to remove the spring return on the throttle and allow just the servo to open and then close the throttle? And two, it seems I have no RPM change from half throttle to full throttle. Meaning full power is at half throttle and full throttle? Is this a radio adjustment? or a geometry problem with my servo arm/pushrod or is there a setting/adjustment I need to make on the engine that will broaden my throttle spectrum. I am using a early version Spektrum Dx7 which does not have any throttle curve settings. I just want to make sure that it is not an engine issue I need to address.
Thanks Guys!
Paul
Guys,
I am well on my way with my DLE 35RA everything works very well idle to full throttle no hick-ups and I have several introductory flights on the plane now. However, I have a few follow up questions. I am wondering if it is preferred to remove the spring return on the throttle and allow just the servo to open and then close the throttle? And two, it seems I have no RPM change from half throttle to full throttle. Meaning full power is at half throttle and full throttle? Is this a radio adjustment? or a geometry problem with my servo arm/pushrod or is there a setting/adjustment I need to make on the engine that will broaden my throttle spectrum. I am using a early version Spektrum Dx7 which does not have any throttle curve settings. I just want to make sure that it is not an engine issue I need to address.
Thanks Guys!
Paul
The transmitter method is done by noting and adding the up & down throw percentages and while maintaining the total sum, changing the values so that the low throttle percentage is about half of what the upper is. The reason it works is that below half stick controls the low percentage and above half stick the high. That means with the low set half the value as the up, the lower half of stick travel controls much less of the servo travel and thereby increases the servo resolution for the lower half, whereby the upper half of the stick controls twice as much servo travel than the low and has less resolution.
The effect is better linearity with more ease to adjust the idle and more ease to jockey the throttle for the correct power when landing.
The problem with the often used illustration has been brought up a few times. It makes it's point well, but can be misleading? The servo arm position marked idle in the diagram used to illustrate the mechanical setup, needs to be moved one notch clockwise to provide you with the ability to control the idle and/or kill the engine easily. If you proceed from there the mechanical advantage providing linear throttle response still works fine.
07-12-2013, 05:54 AM
#328
Senior Member
RE: New DLE 35
Just purchased a VVRC engine and have to say I like the way they configure the throttle arm on their engines. It has built in mechanical exponential.
From idle to about half throttle, butterflyrotation is much greater which is needed. But from half throttle to full, the servo would move the typical amount but the throttle butterfly doesn't do much. A nice touch particularly for those that don't have access to throttle curves.
Point being, you might just purchase a carb from them if necessary
From idle to about half throttle, butterflyrotation is much greater which is needed. But from half throttle to full, the servo would move the typical amount but the throttle butterfly doesn't do much. A nice touch particularly for those that don't have access to throttle curves.
Point being, you might just purchase a carb from them if necessary
07-12-2013, 12:06 PM
#330
Senior Member
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: ahicks
Matt, how they do that, could that be seen in a pic? -Al
Matt, how they do that, could that be seen in a pic? -Al
I'll try to post a couple snaps tonight... they essentially start the throttle arm straight up and down. As the arm is pushed foreward to open throttle, the clevis hole moves in a circular motion in exagerated mode, slowing down fairly quickly beyond half throttle or so. I haven't started the engine yet so how it works in practice will have to wait
07-12-2013, 02:19 PM
#331
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: MTK
Just purchased a VVRC engine and have to say I like the way they configure the throttle arm on their engines. It has built in mechanical exponential.
From idle to about half throttle, butterfly rotation is much greater which is needed. But from half throttle to full, the servo would move the typical amount but the throttle butterfly doesn't do much. A nice touch particularly for those that don't have access to throttle curves.
Point being, you might just purchase a carb from them if necessary
Just purchased a VVRC engine and have to say I like the way they configure the throttle arm on their engines. It has built in mechanical exponential.
From idle to about half throttle, butterfly rotation is much greater which is needed. But from half throttle to full, the servo would move the typical amount but the throttle butterfly doesn't do much. A nice touch particularly for those that don't have access to throttle curves.
Point being, you might just purchase a carb from them if necessary
07-12-2013, 02:30 PM
#332
RE: New DLE 35
Hi Karol, the work around I suggested basically does the same thing as expo, which it seems you have and are using. My suggestion was for Tx units that don't have throttle expo.
07-12-2013, 02:45 PM
#333
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: WI53072
AA5BY,
Thanks for the suggestion. However, due to the geometry of my set up my low end % (idle) is much higher 131% compared to the top end full throttle being set at 60%. So my total range % equates to 191%. So if I am following your suggestion based on my set up, my idle should be twice as high as my full throttle setting?
Paul
AA5BY,
Thanks for the suggestion. However, due to the geometry of my set up my low end % (idle) is much higher 131% compared to the top end full throttle being set at 60%. So my total range % equates to 191%. So if I am following your suggestion based on my set up, my idle should be twice as high as my full throttle setting?
Paul
07-12-2013, 06:17 PM
#334
RE: New DLE 35
AA
I broke down and cheated. I picked up a Spektrum Dx8! Now I can several other things besides having throttle curve ability. I can not believe how much easier the menu navigation is.
Paul
I broke down and cheated. I picked up a Spektrum Dx8! Now I can several other things besides having throttle curve ability. I can not believe how much easier the menu navigation is.
Paul
07-13-2013, 01:57 AM
#336
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Location: Cape Town, SOUTH AFRICA
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RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: Brettis1
In the plastic bag containing the muffler there was a diagram of the screws and washer configuration. Apart form the translation saying they were gaskets the picture shows a doubling of them e.g. one flat washer then one spring washer followed by another flat and spring washer. This seems very odd. Ive never come across this before.
In the plastic bag containing the muffler there was a diagram of the screws and washer configuration. Apart form the translation saying they were gaskets the picture shows a doubling of them e.g. one flat washer then one spring washer followed by another flat and spring washer. This seems very odd. Ive never come across this before.
It is the best way to ensure the bolts stay secure.
07-13-2013, 02:25 AM
#337
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RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: Brettis1
i take it that everyone doubles up with the muffler washers/spring washers as per diagram
i take it that everyone doubles up with the muffler washers/spring washers as per diagram
On every 2 stroke petrol I own. Never used RTv or any other kind of "gasket maker". I use the supplied gaskets and simply double up the spring washer and flat washer as per the DLE diagram. Been doing this for three years. Never had a muffler come loose
07-13-2013, 06:26 AM
#338
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: WI53072
AA
I broke down and cheated. I picked up a Spektrum Dx8! Now I can several other things besides having throttle curve ability. I can not believe how much easier the menu navigation is.
Paul
AA
I broke down and cheated. I picked up a Spektrum Dx8! Now I can several other things besides having throttle curve ability. I can not believe how much easier the menu navigation is.
Paul
What used to take dozens of flights and adjustments can now be done in one flight.
07-15-2013, 09:02 AM
#339
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RE: New DLE 35
Well I have run a few tanks through it on the trst stand and so far its purring at an idle and squeals like a cut cat when the throttle is tweaked.
I'm running castrol active 2T at 32:1 with 91 octane.
I'm running castrol active 2T at 32:1 with 91 octane.
07-15-2013, 12:47 PM
#341
RE: New DLE 35
I purchased my engine on May 13, 2013. I had an ignition module failure after 1-1/2 gallons of fuel. It had spark, but the advance curve was way off normal. Have been runningan RCEXL A-01 module since then.The DLE repair service says anew DLE A-02module will not be available until the end of this month. That is also what they told me last month, so time will tell.
I am running the engine on a 13-1/2 lb Giant Super Sportster ARF,using Stihl Ultra HP oil at 30:1, with a 19x10 Xoar prop and getting good idle at 1,700 with 6700 to 6800 rpm at WOT. Turned the DLE plug into a piston stop, works great for that purpose.
Engine starts great, usually one flip after warm-up.
I am running the engine on a 13-1/2 lb Giant Super Sportster ARF,using Stihl Ultra HP oil at 30:1, with a 19x10 Xoar prop and getting good idle at 1,700 with 6700 to 6800 rpm at WOT. Turned the DLE plug into a piston stop, works great for that purpose.
Engine starts great, usually one flip after warm-up.
07-21-2013, 12:06 PM
#343
RE: New DLE 35
Just tried to start my DLE 35RA. It will pop but will not start. It's getting fuel and just to be on the safe side I put fuel in the carb with a tube. Still nothing but a pop when I choke it and It try's to start but just runs for a second. Plug cap is all the way on and both needles Are at 1 1/4 open. I put a new plug in after it wouldn't start. Any ideas?
07-21-2013, 04:17 PM
#349
My Feedback: (2)
RE: New DLE 35
As used to handling and the care and feeding of my planes that are flown regularly, that happens to me on occasion? I generally pull the choke on, flip till it pops, open the choke, flip it a few more times and it starts. On occasion though, I never get that first pop. After flipping with the choke on for a while, it's almost certain it's flooded. That's about the time I see fuel dripping from the exhaust too - and I know it's happened again! Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Even when I remember to turn the kill switch on the receiver to the on position!
It's why I carry an extra plug and the tools required to change it with me. -Al
It's why I carry an extra plug and the tools required to change it with me. -Al
07-21-2013, 04:51 PM
#350
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indio, CA
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RE: New DLE 35
If you have your engine mounted inverted (plug at the very bottom) and the plug was wet when you inspected it, most likely it was a flooded condition. You said you changed the plug but did not say what the plug was. Use a NGK CM6 or the Honda equivalent and NOT a DLE plug. Check gap to be about .022 (anywhere from .018 to .024 should work).
One other thing to look at is the reed block and reeds. Inspect to verify they sit flat on the block. Reeds that don't seal well can make an engine hard to start or run.
Mike
One other thing to look at is the reed block and reeds. Inspect to verify they sit flat on the block. Reeds that don't seal well can make an engine hard to start or run.
Mike