captinjohn

March, April, May, June and we are now at July 9....I would be kinda _issed off about that. That is crazy!

JohnB96041

Took me about 20 minutes today to make contact with Syssa Aircraft Performance. Received an email from Joe of order confirmation. All seems to be well with their business.

Jim Henley

Steve, I have not checked the filter screen in the carb, so will I will check that I will also replace the IBEC with a separate battery and see if that makes a difference. I would be good to find something besides a module. Oh I was running the engine cowl off so I don't think vapor lock is affecting things.
Thanks!

dlenginesaustralia

One of the lucky few. We have not had an answer to an email from them for 6 months, In the end we just send the motors back for the warranty work and wait and hope.

Last ones took about 2 months, but did come back all sorted and upgraded - but absolutely zero communication.

Just sent another couple for warranty work, tracking shows delivered on 16th May - but still cannot get an answer to emails, and when we trying ringing just get message that mailbox is full and it hangs up.

Todd / Syssa really really really need to sort out the customer service side of things if they are to have any hope of surviving.

The last two we sent might be sorted and on the way back and arriving tomorrow for all I know....but we don't know, and that is the problem.

Cheers

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

how long will a gallon of gas last in a gas can to be good>> the weather has been up to a 114 here and more in california i i just had a gallon gas for 3 weeks engine would not start so i got some new gas and the engine started right up by hand like it always did

JohnB96041

I always mix 1 gallon of gas/oil before flying on a weekend. Un-used gas/oil mix goes in weed trimmer or old lawnboy lawnmower. I try to always use fresh gas/oil mix. However, I have kept a 2 gallon container of gas/oil mix for up to two months with no problem. This is SW Oklahoma and gets really warm/hot here in the summer. I think we have hit 100 degrees once or twice this summer, but are in for a long hot dry spell at this time.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

why would it start with fresh gas>> i leave the lid cracked a little but i live in a mobile home no lawn mowers or trimmers here all rock all the way around

JohnB96041

With the gas can lid cracked you will get evaporation and the gas will not be as good as fresh gas or gas in a container that is closed.

pgmeyer

Gas cans- if kept outside exposed to heat cycles-
Just a thought, with plastic jugs that expand and collapse with heat and cold, they exhale gasoline vapor when hot and inhale cool moist evening air when the nighttime arrives. Especially bad with our ethanol based gasoline. I have been storing fuel in steel safety cans in my basement and it has been good long term.

Jim Henley

Spent some time this evening trouble shooting the engine problem I ran into Monday night. As was suggested, I did try hooking a separate battery to the ignition module and the engine started and ran just fine for 10-12 minutes. Then I hooked things back up the way they were i.e. IBCE and 2700 mAh flight battery. Again the engine started just fine and ran for 10-12 minutes with no problems. After running the engine on the ground with both batteries, I took the fuselage inside and checked the batteries with an expanded scale volt meter. The new battery (freshly charged) after 10-10 min. was reading 5.6 volts in the green scale. However the flight battery (freshly cycled to 2309 mAh) was reading between 5.0 and 5.3 in the white scale. I checked both with my old ACE load tester but neither battery showed a drop with a "normal" load applied. Is it possible that the flight battery is beginning to fail and coupled with the load of the servos when in flight that it is dropping below the minimum voltage to support the ignition? I have had to cycle the battery (NiMH) a couple of times to get it to take a solid charge.
Thanks !

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I would be looking for another battery

Joystick TX

Jim,A lot of the battery testers don't put a big enough load on the battery to tell if there is a problem even with the expanded scale meter reading. A load of 250mA is not enough current to expose most problems. A lot of people at our field didn't like the Futaba tester because it put a 1 Amp load on the battery and it frequently indicated a low voltage with that current draw. The problem is that with the servos and ignition on one battery, that amount of current draw is not unusual. If your battery won't hold the voltage up above what your ignition and receiver need, that is a problem. That's why I run two 4.8V NiMH batteries in parallel. Another option is to run a five cell pack or go to another battery type like the Life. I sometimes forget to turn off my plane and run down the batteries and that would be expensive with the new battery technology and is the only reason I don't change over. If I did run a single battery of any type, I would still use two switches in parallel. One cool thing is that with the IBEC, your ignition will normally quit before your receiver, so if your battery is going south, you may still have enough time to land the plane.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I agree with w8ye and Steve. Most of what he's talking about I learned the hard way. Nobody was talking about how wimpy the NiMh chemistry is back then (3-4 years ago). People thought I was off my rocker on the subject? What I eventually found out was the NiMh batteries are at the absolute bottom of the totem pole when it comes to their ability to supply amperage in quantity. Nicads are better!

I also found going to 5 cell NiMh packs that while that move did increase the voltage, it did not make much difference in the amperage department, or maybe enough difference?

From the tone of your note, it sounds like you are catching on. It's what I was hinting at earlier. That's a definite possibility!

Are you flying with separate flight and ignition batteries, or are you flying on a single battery supplying everything? The single battery is not likely going to cut it. The 2 in parallel will cut it! Running them in parallel will double the available amperage... to everything!

If haven't and would like to try parallel batteries, give this a try. Wire up the first battery like you always have. The second battery goes to a second switch, and from there to a Y placed on the rudder servo (it's the biggest load on the plane). When a big load is applied to the rudder it will pull most of the power it needs from the second battery. When the rudder doesn't need the extra power, the power from the second battery is available anywhere it's needed. It will back feed the receiver without issue.

I've moved on to LiFe/A123 since figuring all this out, but I wire that single battery the same way. A second lead from the LiFe powers that second switch. The second switch offers redundancy there, as well as allowing twice the amperage to my power hungry pig servos, though now the restriction isn't due to battery chemistry - it's wire size! That second line relieves the receiver of having to pass all that current the LiFe is capable of delivering! -Al

Jim Henley

Al , Steve, I guess the issue with NiMN is the revelation I have just experienced. All along, I was thinking NiMH with 2000 or higher mAh capacity would be what was needed. Obviously, that thinking is wrong. I was talking to one of the fellows I fly with and he echoed the same remark. That NiMH is the worst solution. Guess I will start researching dual batteries and / or different chemistry. Again thank you to everyone who has helped me sort through this issue.

JohnB96041

Ok people. I placed an order to Syssa Aircraft Performance on Monday, July 8th and received the package this morning in the mail. Can't beat that for service.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

I'll have to try that. Do you have a pic of the cowl with the air scoops installed?

I emailed SYSSA about the trouble I have with my engine and Todd got back with me the next day. He said to send the engine back and it wouldn't take but a couple days. I sent it out on Wednesday and he should recive it on Friday. I have had no problems with customer service so far. Sorry to hear about some of you other guys.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

MIDRANGE SURGE ON THE SYSSA 30

It has been brought to my attention through a PM that some people are having trouble with a lean condition at midrange?

The Syssa engine's original carburetor has an accelerator pump.

If you use conventional two stroke carburetor tuning technique, you will end up with a lean midrange.

In conventional tuning, the theory is to make the low speed as lean as possible and still get good acceleration to high speed.

But with the accelerator pump, the carburetor can accelerate the engine to full speed no problem with the low speed set to where the engine idles best - yet, if the engine is run at the lower mid range the engine can be too lean and surge on you if set this way.

Richen up the low speed to get rid of the lean surge at midrange on the Syssa 30.

I discovered this phenomena on Husqvarna 357XP/359 chainsaws that have a Walbro WT-499 accelerator pump carburetor and not on the Syssa, but knowing the original carburetor on the Syssa has a accelerator pump, the same situation exists.

AGNI 5

Thanks for pointing it out.The 813 A carb tunes differently and the instructions are provided by Todd with the engine.RC Baja car racers use the carb  to improve the performance  of their engines.To tune their engines the throttle is advanced slowly and retarded slowly to check the tune. This method makes the accelerator ineffective during tune up but works normally when advanced/ retarded under flying conditions.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

Some of you have mentioned the possibility of low compression being the result of warn or broken rings. As the customer service from syssa has slid into virtual non existence, I felt like I need to hedge my bet since I have 4 of these engines. I contacted Frank Bowman of Bowman rings, world renowned ring manufacturer. I had him custom make rings for the syssa. I put 3 back for future reference, but Mr. Bowman has now added them to his inventory. You can get them for about $12.00 each ant they DO make a difference!!

Steve

Go Tech

Joystick TX

Wow, Steve you did what I was thinking about. I was going to order a Bowman ring for my DLE and I was wondering if he had any for the Syssa. Good info to know, thanks.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

clearly, Syssa takes care of people who need repairs or parts, but he's ignoring those of us who have gave him $400+ NINE MONTHS AGO, and have the nerve to politely ask W TF is happening with our orders.

4th polite email in last 3 months was sent last week (to everyone on the websites list of contacts)....no answer. I'm pretty sure I remember finding a home # when googling "Todd Syssa"....I think it's time to start calling there....incessantly, if necessary.

Joystick TX

I don't think that home number is valid anymore.

JohnB96041

That home phone number is assigned to someone else. Try sending an email to [email protected]. He is the one I contacted via email and got quick results.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

I sent this to Todd, Joe, Dave, Tony and Jennifer earlier today. I'll be shocked if I hear back. Yeah, my tone got a little more aggressive, but after 3-4 emails as plain & polite as the one from July 9, it's clear that that approach ain't working.

AGNI 5

To those who are hanging on to their SYSSA 30.Try a JXF 17x9 prop.With the tonal inserts it is very quite and pulls the plane with authority.I would avoid low viscosity oils too.