CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
07-17-2013, 04:22 PM
#201
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The first pictureis the choke in the open position. To close the choke you push on the nylon ball link.
The second pictureis the choke in the closed position and the aluminum arm is now pointing down. To open the choke you pull the arm forward and up.
The choke is easy to operate and nothing ishanging out of the cowl. 
07-17-2013, 04:23 PM
#202
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I bolted the engine to the firewall using some blue Loctite. The header and canister installs were next.
The headers had been shortened to allow the coupler to slide all the way onto the header and still leave a 1/8" gap between the header and the canister.
I installed the coupler on the canister and added the clamp. I drilled a 1/16" hole in the smallest corner of the opening in the clamp.
I shortened a couple #2 x 9/16" servo mount screws and put them in with some red Loctite.
07-17-2013, 04:24 PM
#203
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I put the clamp on the header before sliding the header into the coupler.
After the canister and header are in their final position the clamp is put on the header side of the coupler. I put the clamp behind the bumps on the header.
07-17-2013, 04:26 PM
#204
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The hardware for the headers includedeight bolts of one size, four smaller bolts, and four gaskets. I chose to use the eight bolts. I'm not sure what the four smaller bolts are for.
Tightening the inside bolts on the "2 into 1" headers requires a shortened allen wrench.
I didn't use the gaskets. I chose to use Permatex high temp silicone for the gasket.
07-17-2013, 04:28 PM
#206
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The KS Soft Mounts already had three of the four lock nuts tightened. The lower inside lock nut is the only one left to tighten after the canister is put in.
Since I reversed the headers and mounted the canisters to the outside there is lots of room to operate a ratchet wrench to tighten the lock nut. 
07-17-2013, 04:30 PM
#208
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
DA sells silicone extensions for the canisters. The pair weighs 1.2 ounces.
DA suggested installing them with a zip tie above the cross hatch that has been milled into the exhaust exit.
The other canister is installed the same way.
One huge advantage of the composite airframe is the amount of room available for mounting canisters. There is easy access to everything canister related. 
07-17-2013, 09:11 PM
#210
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
Great Job Dean,
Can you tell me how this compares to other Comp-Arf's you have flown?
Im about to pull the trigger on one but I just want your opinion...
Currently I am in Nigeria for the next possible 3 to 5 yrs, flying Jets and a 35% SBACH, my team here has more than 15 Airplanes and another 20 in the Mix of things, plus my Ultra Lightning Just arrived.
Let me know what you think!
Darcy
Can you tell me how this compares to other Comp-Arf's you have flown?
Im about to pull the trigger on one but I just want your opinion...
Currently I am in Nigeria for the next possible 3 to 5 yrs, flying Jets and a 35% SBACH, my team here has more than 15 Airplanes and another 20 in the Mix of things, plus my Ultra Lightning Just arrived.
Let me know what you think!
Darcy
07-18-2013, 05:01 AM
#211
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
ORIGINAL: mu2driver
Great Job Dean,
Can you tell me how this compares to other Comp-Arf's you have flown?
Im about to pull the trigger on one but I just want your opinion...
Currently I am in Nigeria for the next possible 3 to 5 yrs, flying Jets and a 35% SBACH, my team here has more than 15 Airplanes and another 20 in the Mix of things, plus my Ultra Lightning Just arrived.
Let me know what you think!
Darcy
Great Job Dean,
Can you tell me how this compares to other Comp-Arf's you have flown?
Im about to pull the trigger on one but I just want your opinion...
Currently I am in Nigeria for the next possible 3 to 5 yrs, flying Jets and a 35% SBACH, my team here has more than 15 Airplanes and another 20 in the Mix of things, plus my Ultra Lightning Just arrived.
Let me know what you think!
Darcy
The "2013 Series" has even more of the work done by the factory.
http://www.carf-models.com/public_ca...uct&proId=2658
They mount the cowl now. The hatchis installed by the factory. The phenolicarms on the control surfaces are installed by the factory. I'm guessing you could get it RTF in about 3 days.
Check the flight reviews of others on page 1. Nothing but positive reviews.
Show us some pics when you get yours!!
08-23-2013, 04:42 PM
#212
The fuel tank, fuel dot, and fuel line installations were next.
The fuel tank was secured to the tray with zip ties. I put Velcro on the tank underneath the zip ties. The connections had wire wraps.
The single line is feeding two carburetors, so I used a very large I.D. tygon tubing.
The wire wraps were sold by my local hobby shop.
The fuel tank was secured to the tray with zip ties. I put Velcro on the tank underneath the zip ties. The connections had wire wraps.
The single line is feeding two carburetors, so I used a very large I.D. tygon tubing.
The wire wraps were sold by my local hobby shop.
08-23-2013, 04:44 PM
#213
The fuel dot is from Madison Products and is made specifically for the 5/16" I.D. tubing.
I didn't want the fuel dot being tightened on the fuselage skin. I made a plywood ring standoff for the housing to rest on. The standoff is glued to the plate that will be glued on the inside of the fuselage.
The nylon washer for the housing will rest on that standoff.
I didn't want the fuel dot being tightened on the fuselage skin. I made a plywood ring standoff for the housing to rest on. The standoff is glued to the plate that will be glued on the inside of the fuselage.
The nylon washer for the housing will rest on that standoff.
Last edited by Dean Bird; 08-23-2013 at 08:00 PM.
08-23-2013, 04:46 PM
#214
The hole in the fuselage side is marked the same size as the standoff. I chose to put it below the white and yellow wedges in the paint scheme. I wanted to keep those looking visually clean. 
The hole is opened up with a Dremel drum sander to be a perfect fit for the standoff.
The complete fuel dot is assembled. Notice how the standoff keeps the nylon washer and fuel dot housing 1/8" above the mounting plate.
The hole is opened up with a Dremel drum sander to be a perfect fit for the standoff.
The complete fuel dot is assembled. Notice how the standoff keeps the nylon washer and fuel dot housing 1/8" above the mounting plate.
08-23-2013, 04:47 PM
#215
The completed fuel dot is glued in from the inside with Hysol. The area was sanded lightly and cleaned with denatured alcohol before gluing it in.
Here is the completed installation without the cap screwed in.
Here is how it looks with the cap screwed into the housing.
There is no pressure on the fuselage skin. The nylon washer underneath the fuel dot housing is level with the fuselage skin, but it tightens down onto the plywood ring underneath it, not the fuselage side.
Here is the completed installation without the cap screwed in.
Here is how it looks with the cap screwed into the housing.
There is no pressure on the fuselage skin. The nylon washer underneath the fuel dot housing is level with the fuselage skin, but it tightens down onto the plywood ring underneath it, not the fuselage side.
08-23-2013, 04:48 PM
#216
These pictures are inverted. 
The line to the carburetor has a "T" fitting at the fuel dot. This is with the line pulled out for filling.
This is with the fuel dot screwed in and ready for flight.
The "T" fitting is hung from two zip ties looped through one of these "Kwik Klips" from my local Ace Hardware store.
The line to the carburetor has a "T" fitting at the fuel dot. This is with the line pulled out for filling.
This is with the fuel dot screwed in and ready for flight.
The "T" fitting is hung from two zip ties looped through one of these "Kwik Klips" from my local Ace Hardware store.
08-23-2013, 04:51 PM
#217
I chose to run a single fuel line from the tank out past the firewall. After the fuel tubing goes through the firewall a "T" fitting from PSP was added.
The first line on the "T" is added with the length necessary to reach the front carburetor. The second line on the "T" is the same length. I'm told that makes starting easier because fuel reaches both carburetors at the same time when they are choked.
Both lines get a wire wrap at the "T" fitting.
The first line on the "T" is added with the length necessary to reach the front carburetor. The second line on the "T" is the same length. I'm told that makes starting easier because fuel reaches both carburetors at the same time when they are choked.
Both lines get a wire wrap at the "T" fitting.
08-23-2013, 04:52 PM
#218
The fuel line for the rear carburetor needs to be secured since it has the extra length that isn't needed to reach the carburetor. I chose to use a 3/8" cable clamp from my local Ace Hardware store.
I screwed the cable clamp to a small block of 1/4" plywood that had been thick CAed to the center of the firewall. The fuel line connections to the carburetor got a wire wrap.
Here's the front view. LOTS of room to do this work with the headers mounted to move the canisters outward instead of inward.
I screwed the cable clamp to a small block of 1/4" plywood that had been thick CAed to the center of the firewall. The fuel line connections to the carburetor got a wire wrap.
Here's the front view. LOTS of room to do this work with the headers mounted to move the canisters outward instead of inward.
08-23-2013, 04:52 PM
#219
I wanted to mention a change that was done after these pictures. On the 3rd flight of the plane I went to full throttle for the first time. The engine would cut out a couple times on the upline. I noticed a lot of air in the line when I was defueling at the end of that first day.
The only barbs that are designed for this 5/16" tubing are the ones on the Madison Products fuel dot. Air was getting sucked into the line at full throttle. I went back through all the fittings, removed the couple that were small tie wraps and put two wire wraps on each fitting. The problem with air getting into the fuel line went away.
The only barbs that are designed for this 5/16" tubing are the ones on the Madison Products fuel dot. Air was getting sucked into the line at full throttle. I went back through all the fittings, removed the couple that were small tie wraps and put two wire wraps on each fitting. The problem with air getting into the fuel line went away.
08-24-2013, 03:58 PM
#221
I used Split Wire Loom Tubing (from my local Ace Hardware store) over the spark plug leads anywhere they could contact anything else.
You can see a wire keep on the motor dome securing the sensor lead and red Velcro straps securing the spark plug lead for the rear cylinder on this side.
This ignition is for the rear cylinders so the other spark plug lead is routed to the rear cylinder on the other side.
The sensor on the top of the engine is for the front cylinders. The ignition on this side is connected to that sensor. One spark plug lead is connected to the front cylinder on this side. The other spark plug lead is routed to the front cylinder on the other side.
You can see a wire keep on the motor dome securing the sensor lead and red Velcro straps securing the spark plug lead for the rear cylinder on this side.
This ignition is for the rear cylinders so the other spark plug lead is routed to the rear cylinder on the other side.
The sensor on the top of the engine is for the front cylinders. The ignition on this side is connected to that sensor. One spark plug lead is connected to the front cylinder on this side. The other spark plug lead is routed to the front cylinder on the other side.
08-24-2013, 04:01 PM
#223
Before the bottom half of the cowl was bolted on I had cut holes for cooling where suggested by the instruction manual.
Before mounting the top half of the cowl I added 1/64" plywood shims where the two halves of the spinner ring bolt together.
The shims provided a perfect match between the rings on the top and bottom half.
Before mounting the top half of the cowl I added 1/64" plywood shims where the two halves of the spinner ring bolt together.
The shims provided a perfect match between the rings on the top and bottom half.
08-24-2013, 04:02 PM
#224
The cowl is bolted on with twenty M3 x 12 socket head bolts. They seemed way too long to me. I weighed the bolts and they were .6 ounces.
I wanted to use much shorter bolts and also use a neoprene washer to protect the paint on the cowl. This plane will last forever so I wanted to keep the paint looking good.
I got a bag of M3 x 8 button heads and washers from McMaster-Carr.
Twenty of the button heads with their washers only weighed .4 ounces.
I wanted to use much shorter bolts and also use a neoprene washer to protect the paint on the cowl. This plane will last forever so I wanted to keep the paint looking good.
I got a bag of M3 x 8 button heads and washers from McMaster-Carr.
Twenty of the button heads with their washers only weighed .4 ounces.