hookedonrc

OK...not sure if I am a glutton for punishment, just plane crazy, or a lot of both. I am starting on my second kit, a Sig Hog Bipe, and am going to try to do a build along thread. Now I am not making any promises on how long this will take, but will try to keep some semblance of a build going without stopping for several months like I did on my Somethin Extra. It is my hope that by posting my progress here, I have more than just my satisfaction in building to keep me going. It is my hope that all of you, who have been a great help to me over my 3 years of learning this hobby, will keep me encouraged if I start to drift. I am dedicating this build to Eric Kler of the website fubarhill. He, more than anyone has helped to keep the ol hog bipe tradition going. And to Minnflyer - just cause I think I should. Besides I like his drawings and you never know when I might need one during this build.

Anyway, here goes:

Plans:
Engine: Saito 100gk (Haven't purchased it yet, but I will need to soon since the engine area is early on in the construction.)
Servos: Hitec HS-635HB's (I have them on my Ultra Stick Lite and like them.)
Receiver: I have a JR8103 that I fly with, so a JR R700 will probably be my choice. I sure like the small size of this rx.
Battery: 1100MAH Nicad. I chose this size because it matches all of my other planes. That way I am never wondering what charge rate to put on the plane.
Colors: Will use a base coat of white Ultra Cote with the patterns in purple with a yellow trim or maybe black. Plenty of time to decide.

Planned modifications:
1. Will replace the current aluminum gear that came with the kit with a gear I have on hand from an Ultra Stick 60. It is taller than the gear supplied in the kit, is much the same size where it mounts to the fuse, and it is much sturdier than the stock gear. This will allow me to swing a larger prop on the Saito 100.
2. Will move the gear block forward 1/2" to 3/4", have seen both indicated here on RCU, still time to decide.
3. May reshape the tail fin and rudder, but not sure yet, and if I do, not sure what shape I would make it.
4. Will add a Sullivan tailwheel in the rear of the fuse. This is pretty much what I have done on all my planes already, both ARF and kit.
5. May sheet the rear turtle deck. Not sure yet, but is a consideration.
6. Install a fuel dot for easy access to fill line. I also put this in a lot of my current planes.

For now, that is what I have planned. I have added some pics of my bench, so you can see it before it gets to what it normally looks like. Wish me luck.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
Congrats on getting a Sig Pig. I'm on my third one. You can find my current Hog Bipe on page 5 at fubarhill.com (plus in my avatar). All of the mods you suggest I agree on with the exception of modifying the tail feathers and the turtle deck. I threw away the plastic turtle deck and carved one out of a balsa block, which makes it easier to cover (not paint). One mod you didn't mention is to do the dual aileron mod. This is a huge mod that you need to do to eliminate a flutter problem that can occur from having just one servo. Other than that this kit a dream to build and a fantasy to fly!!!! I love em.

hookedonrc

Thanks for the info. I have envied yours for some time now. I guess I should have mentioned the dual aleron servo as a mod, but thought since it is offered as part of the kit, I considered it as a given. I will also shape the plastic turtle deck out of balsa...just didn't know yours was done the same way. Tail feather mod is just an idea that I haven't made my final decision on yet. I know there are some on fubarhill that have changed the shape, but it isn't one that I consider a must.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
Thanks. This is my 3rd Hog, but my first build. It's means a lot more when it's your baby that you've built. The first 10-15 flights I just couldn't relax, but as soon as I loosened up it's really become a joy to fly!! Damn, I love these bipes!!!

Hope you have fun with yours.

Swager

My Feedback: (1)

I understand a cowl is made for this plane and it looks great.

You might want to consider that.

I am looking at the Hog Bipe or the Skybolt for my first bi-plane kit. HAve fun and I will be monitoring this thread.

dmanson

My Feedback: (1)

Hooked,

My son and I just completed building a Hog. This was our first build of a model of this size. Build was a joy and we encountered no problems to speak of.

We made some of the mods you mention and some others as well.

Moved landing gear foward 1/2 inch; made new enlarged plate for gear and reinforced attachment to fuse.
Used dual servo setup included with kit.
Enlarged rudder by 3/4 inch (by glued 1/4 x 3/4 stock to leading edge of rudder).
Increased opening in elevator to allow more throw of rudder.


Powered with Saito .91 and balance was perfect without adding any weight. Servos mounted as shown in plans; battery placed in space under tank.
Used stock headrest and wheel pants. Sprayed with black dope. Fiberglassed inside seem on wheel pants.
Doubled up some sheeting on wing in places that will be handled a lot.

Took us about 4 or 5 weeks of nights and weekends.

All alignments came out nearly perfect without need to shim or otherwise adjust.

hookedonrc

Swager - I would have considered cowling the engine, but with a Saito GK (Golden Knight) version, I really want the engine to be seen.

dmanson - Looks like a great plane for your first build. Mine will probably take more than 4-5 weeks. I have a vacation coming up in about a month and am headed for the sun. I am also wanting to fly some when we get good weather here.

I think the first thing I need to do is get the engine on order. Will be doing that this week. I have considered building out of sequence and doing the wings first. If anyone thinks I shouldn't do it that way, don't hesitate to speak up. I will review the plans and if it looks feasible, I will start building the wings first.

dmanson

My Feedback: (1)

As best I can remember, you should be able to build wings first. We were very careful to construct a flat building board and make sure that the wing was fully pinned down, especially in the step that "sets" the shape of the wing. Both wings came out perfectly true.

Found it best to wet sheeting on wing D-tube and turtle deck so as to bend without cracking. Just wet with rag and let sit a few minutes.

Haven't flown it yet. Waiting for a break in the weather.

Good luck.

hookedonrc

dmanson- If you look in my second pic from the left, you can see my building board hanging on the wall to the right of the bench. It is 1/2 of a bi-fold door with ceiling tile glued to the surface using 3M spray adhesive. I have built a Somethin Extra on it and it is as straight as an arrow. As far as bending the sheeting, yes, I use Amonia in a spray bottle to bend the stock without cracking it.

For today, I plan to read through the entire set of plans and to begin separating the balsa stock and hardware parts. I will inspect the included hardware and decide if I need to replace it, or will use what is provided. If it looks like I can start on the wing first, which I think I can, I will begin this weekend. I would really like to start the wing first because my funds are somewhat limited right now. The Saito is shown on different websites at $299.00 and I just don't want to spend the money right now. I know all I have to do is pick up the phone and get the engine, but I have ONE...count em ONE more semester of tuition to pay for my son. He graduates from college in May, and then my finances will be looking up. And...my wife and I are taking a long awaited vacation in early March and are saving for the trip. On this one I can't get away with buying too much before we go. (She is very understanding of my addiction to this hobby, but there are limits.)

Anyway, will post again after I have started and will include pics.

ADDITIONAL UPDATE: Just read through the instruction booklet and I can start the wings first. Will be picking up more T pins, Medium CA, single razor blades, #11 xacto blades, and some emory style sanding boards. Will begin Saturday morning. (Would have probably flown this weekend, but as luck would have it, the temperature will be better today and tomorrow....ugh am working!

hookedonrc

Well, I guess I just can't stand a clean workbench and a building board that has nothing on it. I stopped by Hobby Lobby and Michael's this afternoon to gather up straight pins, epoxy brushes, mixing sticks, and other small items so I could get started this weekend. Got home and went through the box of parts, taking out the hardware and separating the sheets so it is easier to find what I need. Nothing left either the top or the bottom of the box. That is all except the hardware which went straight into a shoe box for later. This time I am not spending an hour looking for a part that ends up underneath something on the workbench. Yeah...I know...well at least it is my plan.

So anyway, got the top wing part of the plan cut off of the main sheet, taped it to the building board, put a plastic plan protector sheet over that, then topped it off with wax paper. Then, I just couldn't stop...and began to build the wing straight from the plans. I must admit, I am spoiled after building the Somethin Extra. It had all laser cut parts while the Hog Bipe only has some of them cut that way. I am a little disappointed with the inner wing ribs cause some of the parts were crushed a little rather than clean cut. Nothing that I would complain about to SIG, just an observation. I have attached the latest pictures of my progress, and couldn't help posting a pic of the mixing stick box that I got at Michael's. A great buy as far as I am concerned: 1,000 sticks for $2.99... Try finding that at the LHS!

Man is it great to be peeling CA of my fingers again.

Propwash in Pa

Thanks for the thread. I am about a month ahead of you with a Hog. One mod that I made was to go with dual elevator pushrods. I like the firmness and positive feel.

John 373786

hookedonrc

Thanks propwash - I have always wanted to do something like this, but never got around to it. Thought this would be a good start and a good plane to do it on. I have added the trailing edge sheeting, the top spar, and the web shears. Also put in the top wing bracing as indicated in the instructions. You can see in the last pic that I have added the leading edge wing sheeting and it is being formed into the correct shape. I haven't glued it in place yet, and that may have been a mistake. Once the sheeting dries out (I sprayed ammonia on the sheeting to keep it from cracking) it might be a little more difficult to get the glue/epoxy in on the ribs. However, I really wanted to take my time and make sure the LE was formed and still be able to move it around to ensure a good fit. Will pick back up tomorrow morning with a planned total weekend build session... Yeah, I will sleep and eat, but am on a roll and want to get as much done as I can.

Here are pics of additional adds to the top wing build.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
look great. doing good work there. I know what you mean about a building weekend, the weather here in OK is going to go to pot tonight. Down here in Lawton it was 75 today with almost no wind (no wind is rare down here), and tomorrow morning. it's going to be 20 with winds 10-20 out of the north. well, at least we have the building board.

keep up the good work, and keep us posted.

hookedonrc

Saturday (1st weekend day) Update:
Today is been mostly slow going. Not running into problems, just in one of those parts of the build where time is what is needed. I have completed the top wing LE sheeting on the wing bottom, added the cap strips, and removed the wing from the building board for the first time. I am proceeding to the opposite side and needed to reverse the wing on the board. There is just a slight bow in the wing when I look down the Leading Edge, but I think that is from the lack of sheeting and the top wing braces that were yet to be put in.

After removing the wing, I made sure to go over every single joint between the ribs, web shears, cap strips and any bracing to ensure that all joints are well attached. I am a little disappointed on my sheeting, but nothing that is of a major concern. The sheeting didn't lay right down on the front of the rib, but rather joined about 1/4-3/8'' back from where the LE and the sheeting meet up. (You can see in my vertical shot below where the ribs don't quite meet the sheeting on the outer end of the wing. I have made sure to fill in with medium CA so there is support.) I had this happen on my Somethin Extra, but with most of the rib attached I do not see any major problem. From the outside of the sheeting you can not see any problem with the curve, so appearance will not suffer and with the medium CA used to fill in, the ribs are supported.

I have reattached the wing to the building board to ensure that it was straight when I added the Leading Edge Center Block and the Top Wing Support Plates. You can see them in one of the pictures with 'crossed' straight pins holding the plates in place as the epoxy dries. I figure that will be pretty much for today as the temp is 36 degrees with a 17mph gusting wind. The wind chill is about 26, so the kerosene heater is able to keep the garage fairly comfortable, but that will become harder as the sun begins to set. Tomorrow will be the LE sheeting for the top of the wing, and then it will be on to the bottom two halves. I am pleased with the progress, and for now, it looks like everything is going together pretty well. I am glad that I have built another kit prior to this one as the instructions are not quite as detailed as they were on the Somethin Extra. No complaint, it's just that you need to think ahead to make sure you do not get off track. For example: Although the instructions do not say it, the Center Wing block needs to be glued in place 'before' you place the front mounting plate in place, or you cant get it in afterwards. Small detail, but easily missed.

Here are some of the latest pics:

dmanson

My Feedback: (1)

Lookin' good.

My experience with the the top wing was similar to yours:

* Lack of straightness in the wing can be (will be) corrected when you sheet the other side. As it says in the instruction book (when you get to that point), sheeting the other side "sets the shape of the wing." And, indeed it does; the wing will be very stiff once the sheeting is completed. One caution here. When you're pinning the new sheeting down, the wing may have a tendency to break free of the building board (because there are no alignment tabs on the underside) as you man-handle everything into position. So, you may want to put shims under the trailing edge to help keep the wing steady on the board.

* I, too, had some gaps at the leading edge of the sheeting. I did the attachment in two steps, and this helped to keep the gap small. First, with the sheeting tangent to the leading part of the ribs, I glued the sheeting to the leading edge "spar" and to the ribs at just this point. After the glue had cured I went back,with the sheeting wetted, and laid glue over the tops of the ribs and the main spar, then pinned in place. (It was at this point that the wing wanted to separate from the board.) I used thick CA to give me a bit more working time.

Keep up the good work.

P.S. Wrecked an Utra Stik today at a club "Snow Fun Fly." Was worrying too much about how the plane was flying with the skis, and lost control on the third loop in the required sequence. Now I, too, have got a project for the cold weather.

hookedonrc

dmanson-sorry to hear about your Ultra Stick. I have the US 60 and am on my third one. First was my fault, I dumb thumbed it in when I was inverted. The second, I was in a split 'ess' and about 3/4 of the way through, the right wing completely separated from the fuse and the left part of the wing. I hadn't built that one and when we investigated we found that the back 1/2 of the right side of the wing joiner had no epoxy on it. Since it didn't have anything to hold it, it split right along the joiner where there wasn't any epoxy. I felt kinda bad, but since I bought it already assembled, just to get one back in the air, I knew it wasn't my doing. On the third one, I made real sure that the wing joiner was epoxied well on both back and front and both sides.

BTW: If you look in my pics, you can see that I already have the trailing edge shimmed and ready to start the sheeting process. It is my next step in my construction. I too glued the LE sheeting in as you suggested, but may have put too much glue on it to begin with. It held the sheeting away from the start of the rib. I probably should have used epoxy instead of CA. That way I would have been able to make the adjustments on the first glueing. That's it for today, will add another update tomorrow. Will probably knock off a little earlier since the playoffs are on.

hookedonrc

Sunday (2nd Weekend day) Status:
Well, I am stopping for now. I find myself trying to get too much done too quickly and am making some mistakes. Nothing big, but enough to know when it's time to hang it up for today. However, I did make quite a bit of progress. I got the LE wing sheeting for the top wing bottom in place and it is drying after using 30 minute epoxy. I have found something about kit building that I sort of knew after building my Somethin Extra. I really do not like doing Leading Edge wing sheeting. It seems I still haven't found a real good system for setting it in place and gluing. You can see in one of the pics for today a new trick I tried. When it came time to glue the front edge in place, I pinned it down and then tilted the entire building board up on edge. Then it was just a matter of dripping small amounts of Medium CA along the leading edge joint. It helped the CA to run along the edge, covering the entire length. I then sprayed the outer side of the sheeting with straight ammonia, brushed in 30 minute epoxy onto the ribs and along the LE joint to add strength. Then I pinned the sheeting in place and am waiting for it to dry.

One note on mistakes. In one of the pics below, you can see the area of the top wing mounting block and a couple of pins sticking in the LE sheeting. I made an error in making sure the mounting block holes were really square to the wing. In the instructions, it does say to check it, but I just didn't get what they were asking me to do. I made sure the mounting blocks and plates were level to the rib brackets and using a straight edge made sure the cabane strut would cross the middle wing brace without touching. Well, the most important part was missed by me. I forgot to make sure the two holes were lined up front to back of the wing. When I started filling in the area where the LE block was placed, I visually noticed that the holes were not lined up front to back. I remeasured the distance between the ribs w-1 and found it to be 29mm. I spit the difference to 14.5 mm to find the center. The rear hole was right on, but the front one was off to the left. In the picture you can see that I have filled the hole with a dowel and will redrill in the right place after the titebond glue dries.

As indicated, I am stopping for today. The playoffs are on in a couple of hours anyway and I do want to watch. Also, I am allergic to CA and I am starting to feel the affects. Although I am building in my garage, the ventilation is not what it should be with the main door closed. So, will take off for now, and re-start during the week after work. Enjoy the pics.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
Looking good so far. You're repair on the mounting holes should be just fine. Doing sheeting can be a bit tough, we all go through it. I think that you'll find as many ways to do it as there are builders out there. I found a way to do it that works well for me. I made up a bunch of weight bags. Made them out of cutting up all my old army uniforms, sewed them into bags, and filled them with BB's. I made a bunch of 3 lb bags a bunch of 1 lb bags. I attach the front of the sheeting to the backside of the leading edge. Then I use Elmer's Carpenter glue on each rib and along the spar where the sheeting will attach. I then use the weight bags to weigh down the sheeting until the glue dries. This will give you lots of time to make sure everything is down, will give you a good joint, and won't contribute to your CA allergy. I've been trying to do more and more building with carpenter's glue and less and less with CA.

I'm enjoying following your progess. Keep us posted

hookedonrc

Thanks for the tip on the bags. On my Sometin Extra, I used a towel draped over the LE and held in place with weights on the table side. I then let the towel dangle over the front side of the bench and using C clamps, I attached heavy weights to the towel. Seemed to work pretty well, but needed a lot of different parts to complete. The bags sound simple and workable. Bending and gluing the sheeting in place is not too bad for me...it's gluing the sheeting to the LE that is such a pain. I did find that I did better on this plane that the last, so maybe it boils down to practice like most everything else. I will keep trying to find a better technique though.

hookedonrc

Fifth Day Status:

Well, I didn't get too much done today, but that is normal for me. Although the weather was not too bad, lower 50's, I don't get home from work till about 5pm. Put a little time in before my wife gets home, then sit down to dinner and relax for the day. However, I did finish the top wing bottom with the cap strips, the top wing attachment brackets, and the blind nuts epoxied into the brackets. I did get to remove the wing from the building board as indicated by the instructions and I am fairly pleased. However, the trailing edge did not stay straight, so I am going to have to figure out a way to block it straight when I add the trailing edge cap. (Any ideas would be appreciated.) For now, will just plan on pinning the TE to the building board with it hanging over about 1 inch. This would allow me to keep the TE straight and still enough room to epoxy the TE edge cap on a straight bunch of ribs. The leading edge is in great shape, a little off, but nothing that will affect the performance of the wing, and with sanding and covering the LE, most of the ripples will be sanded out. Also redrilled hole for the top wing mounting bracket on the cabane struts and it is now in the right place. Next is sheeting the top of the wing in the middle and then on to the wing tips.

Thought, at first, that I wasn't making too much progress until I looked at the date that I started the thread and then realized I am only 5 days in. So am now satisfied with where I am.

Here are the latest pics.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
as usual, looking great. before too long you'll have a motor hanging off the front rolling down the runway. even though I've built one, I'm completely enjoying following your progress. keep up the good work.

Sunny_B

Good work. I am interested in the pins you are using to hold everything. They are obviously not T-pins, so what are they? They appear to be a pleasant substitute and thought I might try them. Sunny

hookedonrc

I picked them up at Michaels for about $3, but am still not sure if I like them or not. They work great and are a little thinner than the standard T pins. The only problem that I have found is that the yellow tops come off real easy. For the cost though, I will probably keep using them. They are easier to push in and don't do as much damage since they are thinner. Now if I could figure out how to keep the yellow tops on, they would be just right. You get about 500 in a box, so for the three bucks, I can buy quite a few boxes and still not spend much on them.

hookedonrc

Ken,
I have a question on the motor mount. The black plastic ones that come with the kit are not recommended for any engine over .61 I believe. Can you tell me what you did on your mount, if anything? I don't need it yet, but am just thinking ahead.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
I know that the instructions say that it's not rated for over a 61, but I used it anyway. I've got a OS 91 Surpass II mounted on it and haven't had any problems with it at all. In fact, I've used the same mount in the 2 Hogs I had before this one. I've you're going to use a 91 4-stroke I'd go ahead and use it.