a8man

Ok, so I just got a X a couple of hours ago and let me tell you it has been painfull and many problems. Here I go: Right of the box, I figuered to put the wheels off the ground and just let it idle (HPI recomended). Then the engine didnt start, then after some more trys it did and I was estatic until I realized that while idleing the wheels were spining rather quickly. I adjusted the trim on the trottle to close the carb as much as possible but no still spining quickly and really high idle. So, I adjusted the idle screw( while 1st tank break in) and let it idle for half a tank. Then I popped it on the ground and without even pressing the thottle, it was moving at low speeds. I cant adjust the trim anymore since its all the way to the left. Accelerate I can do but sometimes after hitting full brake, it dies. Now it seemed that the engine was flooded while trying to start the engine. I literally spent 5 minutes trying to unscrew the glow plug (it was sooo tight). So I thought that might account for the difficult starting, but no. Now I cant get it started and the past times I started it was when I was turning the roto and hitting a little throttle but now that doesnt even work. I can open the carb up more but when its open, it iddles high and moves by itself. Help Me. Please...all I have to offer is an online cookie

badboy2

My Feedback: (13)

i think you need to close the carb a bit ,close enough taht u cant even get a point of pencil thru...one reason that it moves as soon as it hits ground is your carb could be way wide open..put the ST trim in center and close the carb with a little opening on it ..try that see what happens

im sorry im editing i meant enough for a point of a pencil to get thru..or maybe the tip of a small screw driver CANT get thru

Bane9900

you shouldn't adjust the HSN or LSN until it is fully broken in during break-in the richer the better. try adjusting the Idle screw on the back of the carb loosen it to lower Idle speed. keep it as loose as you can with out having it die at idle and make sure there is fuel in the tube when you start if there is none cover the exhuast tip

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Set the ideal to what the manual recommends and see what happens.

leslie_p

Hi all,

I have a new Savage X. I went through the manual a couple times before starting. I pullend the air filter off and checked the carb opening a low throttle and adjusted the idle screw to an opening just short of 1mm.

I ran my first tank with the truck up on a block. On the first tank, the truck was a bit stubborn and cantankerous. At about a 1/2 tank you could hear the engine up the RPMs and start to sound smoother. I kept an eye on the temp. The second tank, I had her on the block, when she sounded smooth I drover her around in a big circle, monitoring the temps.

My, being new, recommendations would be to double check your radio operations vs the throttle and check that low throttle gives the proper opening on the carb. I may be anal, but I'm on my second gallon and this puppy rocks. I am amazed at the wheelies and overall speed!!

Cheers,
Leslie

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Very good advice particularly the READ part.

alvinl

These motors get a lot better after you run a few tanks of fuel through them. Your first couple tanks may be kind of rough, but it gets better. Just stick with it, listen to the advice here and be patient with it.

-SomeGuy-

This is not really advice but here goes, considering that you have an hpi .25 whether its the s-25 or the f4.1 this a great engine to learn with and i say this because it has its share of for lack of a better word "defects" such as the carb plus it wont be long before you want something with a little more pep. Dont get me wrong im not telling you to do whatever and forget about the engine care but dont worry about making mistakes, when in doubt go back to factory settings and re-tune. Take the time to know how it works and even take the time to open it up and have a look around to see how it works, trust me its simple parts wont come flying out when you open it. Look at it as your first car, you wont go for a BMW first because as your learning you WILL hit that pole in the parking lot and scrape the wheels on a curb and so on, instead the smart thing is to get some 15 year old car you can learn with then scrap it. My s-25 almost lasted 1 gallon before it was junk but i learned alot from it and now i have 10 engines that all run well (except my picco 28 that im breaking in now, it seems to have a leak somewhere but thats not my fault). So in other words use this engine to learn as much as you can about the truck like tuning, driving, jumping and just general bashing and when its finished or maybe before get yourself an engine of your choice and you wont need to worry about ruining your new 100$ to 500$ engine.

Good luck!

Someguy

a8man

Thanks guy! Now what is happening is the car is usuallly not starting without a little throttle from my part. After that its runing decent but a hard break dies the engine. I know I can open the carb so this stops but is it ok when the wheels are turning. The needle settings are now: high speed-about 1.5 turns from flush (to the rich side), idle-1/8 to the rich side, and low speed un touched. The car is runing preety rich is this ok? Im just driving it slowly now and I am hslfway through the 3rd tank. Should I start tuning at 5?

EDIT: The reason why the high speed is set to so rich is becasue it was getting really hot in a short matter of time and I richened it until it was low temps.

-SomeGuy-

It may be over cautious on my part but i like to run a good 10 tanks before i start to do some real tuning, a little adjusting to get good temps is ok but at the 10 tank mark you know the engine is nice and broken in. Usually it takes 10 tanks before you start to see an increase in power and about 1 to 1.5 gallons before you get full power. Break in is the worst part of a new engine but done right you should have a reliable engine with a long life expectancy.

Chronic

If it's cutting off under braking then the idle screw needs to be adjusted clockwise. That screw is all that keeps the carb slide from completely closing when the brakes are applied. The adjustment will increase the idle even more, but you can then fix that with LS tuning.

With the engine off, remove the air cleaner so you can see down in the carb. Adjust the idle screw until it holds the carb open a little so the engine won't cut off.

badboy2

My Feedback: (13)

its ok if the tires are turning off the ground..but since u ran it in circles that wont matter anymore...just be patient and you'll have a blast once the engine is done on break in..get a temp gauge so u can tune better..

Ziggmiester

Same thing happened to me with the Savage going fast at idle speeds, it's idle would even speed up as the engine got hotter. All you have to do is richen the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) That should about do it. As far as your starting goes, as you break the truck in it will start easier, and as you get a feel for the truck, you'll know exactly what you have to do to get the engine up and running.

Also, have fun!

Ziggmiester

By the way, mine took 10 tanks to break-in, same as someguywithasavage, and it starts and runs great.

a8man

Got it! Thanks again. Currently half throttle and full are the same (speed wise). I haven't tuned it yet but I have set the needles back to flush and the engine is running way cooler than before (good sign?) when it was right out of the box. So I have to adjust the idle screw to keep open the carb while breaking and it will get the idle speed higher? How do I fix it so the car doesnt move in idle? The low-speed needle? Which way?.....is there an order which I have to adjust the needles? (i.e HSN, Idle, LSN??)

-SomeGuy-

I think this will help http://dads-toy.com/tuning.shtml

a8man

Bump

thestratcat

My Feedback: (12)

guys, for what it's worth...

I got my Savage a week ago yesterday... it took me four hours to get it started the first time!! after getting pretty frustrated, I charged EVERYTHING and also grabbed my duratrax starter (2 battery packs run it) it seems that the combination of good power and the second cell in the starter fired it right up!! The thing has run great since, I'm finding that the bigger starter helps and the thing definitely needs freshly charged batteries to get started...


now the truck runs great!! after the final tuning it's ballistic!!!

a8man

Ok so I got it going and the problem is that it feels as if im getting minimal power to the wheels. On the straightaways its somewhat ok but say climbing on the sidewalk, it can not do. While im trying to climb on the sidewalk, the engine revs preety hard but the wheels dont turn.....in contrast, the T-maxx does this sleeping.

Chronic

How tight is the slipper clutch? Grab ahold of the spur gear and tighten the nut that holds it on all the way down, then back it off about a 1/4 of a turn. I have run mine completely locked down since it was about a week old, but I don't recommend that until you get a good feel for the truck.

If that's not the problem, then it's time to take a look inside the clutchbell.

laserman2

either the slipper is loos or your clutchs are miss adjusted

a8man

The slipper clutch is not loose at all. When I jerk it, it moves very slightly but what I do is the clutchbell moving when I jerk it. Could this be the problem?

a8man

This video show exactly what my truck is doing:
http://www.hpieurope.com/graphics/ki...per_Clutch.mov

Should I tighten the slipper until its normal? Or tighten it all the way like Cronic said?

chubbysuncle

Tighten the slipper disc all the way tight. Back off 1/4 turn. If it still seems to slip on a flat parking lot your clutch shoes are N/G.

a8man

Yay!! Thanks guys, I tightened it and did my first wheelies (with ease). Unfortunately, I have another problem off the line its perfect and mid throttle is ok but full throttle its crap. When over mid throttle and sometimes mid throttle its just cuts off. I accelerate and it just stalls. I know the low speed needle is fine because I used the pinch method (http://www.*********.org/engine-tuning.htm) and the HSN was at flush (factory). Should I richen (the HSN)? But wouldn't this decrease performance?