Patto

Greetings Multi-Engine enthusiasts. I recently acquired an unbuilt Ultra Sport 1000 kit, and extra wing kit. I have decided that my two Magnum .70 4-strokes could use a new home, and I want to modify this Ultra Sport 1000 and make it a twin engine aerobatic performer.

I have not yet decided how to mount the engines to the wings. I could really use some help from you guys on how to do so. Pictures would be great if you have any from your projects. I plan to make the nacelles out of balsa. I also plan to increase the size of the control surfaces and double-bevel them.

So, please give me some advice on the best way to bash this kit and make it a twin. Also, would any of you be interested in seeing this thread become a build thread with photos and such?

Thank you in advance,

Pat

Yury

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_38...tm.htm#3862333
I scratch built the UltraSport 40 in twin modification. Here topic with some information and fotos. I hope it will be useful for you. If I built now I would be increase the area of ailerons also.
Try to build as light as you can.

Patto

Thanks Yury, it looks great! Do you happen to have any photos from the building process when you mounted the engines? That's the part that I'm trying to figure out.

I have already increased the rudder by about 25-30% and the elevators by about the same. I plan on making larger ailerons as well.

I will also be replacing the stock tailwheel assembly with something that won't put any undue stress on the rudder servo. And, I'll be mounting the elevator and rudder servos in the rear of the fuselage. The ailerons, of course, will also each get their own servo.

twinman

My Feedback: (2)

P-Diddy
UltraSport 1000 as a twin???? Crazy Idea..have not done that in...oh...three years!!
My two cents. Your tail modifications are great and necessary. I used Ultra Stick 120 alerons at around 1.75" if memory serves. This thing is a monster on speed. A single servo fluttered, so I used two on each aileron and spaced out for additional stability.
Bill Robison does not like the pointed nose..but who cares!! Tee Hee..I will hear about that one!!
The nacelles are different inside and out due to tapered wing. Make Much too long as far as forward, but DO NOT mount firewall. Mount intended engines on new firewall. Make sure the plane is complete and move the engine assemblies forward and back to get balance. Then mount. I think I used Grapner 14oz rectangular tanks and mount in front of leading edge. I worry about cutting that structural member.
Engines. I originally used ST 60's but was not happy with the result and changed to ST 90's. WOW What a blast!! Now, the US 1000 will snap roll if looped too fast, so mix elevator to ailerons and it is over. Note, land with this mix off or it will ballon.
The wing was lengthened a total of 8 inches and wing plates added to the tips for better wing loading and better knife edge. I also added carbon fiber to the wings in top and bottom due to anticipated high performance. Never a failure.
Do fly it to the ground as it still has high wing loading.
That should keep you going for a while. Flew it for two years and retired in ONE PIECE!
If I can help additioinally, you know where to find me.
Twinman
PS. Where do you get such crazy ideas!!!!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

P-D:

I never got on TwinMan about his bashed us-1000 twin until one day I saw him smearing K-Y jelly on the nose, and then flying around at low speed waiting for some one to bend over.

That’s the day I started calling it the “Goose Plane.”

Haw.

Bill.

Yury

Hi P-Diddy!
Unfortunately I don’t have any building photos.
The nacelles were built as square part of fus and were glued between nervures. The clearance between fus and prop 6 mm.
You can light the model if you don’t install firewall in front of fus. You are going to make tail dragger and you don’t need such a solid nose.
Mine has a very light nose. It’s made from light balsa only. To change balance the model I can move akku from the tail wing edge to the nose.