twn

David, thanks for the pics of the cabane setup on the arf. I also had the chance to look at a few others last weekend at a local event. I got some ideas now.

Here are some more pics. Oh and btw, the wing is not warped. I pulled out the trusty incidence meters and checked. it is bang on perfect. The one tab that has some play to the work surface must be slightly shorter causing the appearance of warpage.

The wing will be completed tomorrow and then on to the top wing...

twn

and a few more pics...

The 645 servos aren't what I'm putting in. They have the same case size as the 5625 and they were handy. I'll be running 5625 on the ailerons.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

You can cut the slot for the servo arm in the door. Then sheet or leave open for covering the bay on top. This is a little easier IMHO and hides the servo opening.

David

twn

hmm... ya I never thought of that. Maybe I will change it. Thanks!!

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

I got stalled at a solution for this, same principle, little different set up. I like this one better! Whats wrong with using 645's tho?

twn

There is nothing wrong with 645. 645’s are strong but slow (.24/sec @4.8v and .20 @ 6v) With my bigger planes (and other smaller ones) I’m use to a faster servo like .12.

My problem is that I have a thin but wide spread of servos. I have 1 – 5625, 4 – 5245, 2 – 645, 2 – 625 & 1 – 225

I know I said in a previous post that I would use 5625 on the ailerons but that meant buying more servos and I want to cap the spending off on this plane…

Here is what I decided on:

2 – 985 on the ailerons (133 in oz & .16/sec @ 4.8v)
1 – 985 on pull-pull rudder
2 – 625 on elevators (76 in oz & .18 @ 4.8v)
1 – 225 or hs-82mg on the throttle

Rory from Vernon, tells me that he went through 4 servos on his ailerons. They were 80 in oz. He feels a stronger servo is needed here especially with larger ailerons but on the elevator halves 80 per side will be fine. Rory primarily suggested just going 645 all round but I didn’t want to buy 3 more 645’s. Plus on my bigger ultimate I had 5645 on the ailerons and 5985 on the elevators & 5955 on the rudder. The tail is fast but the ailerons are slow, very slow and I hated it, very noticeable when trying to precisely stop a fast roll from a wide deflection.

BTW, here is a pic or Rory’s ultimate with the higgley cabane mod (outside mounted) it really does look nice and you can see how much stronger it would be by mounting to the side of the fuselage rather than the top.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I thought this mod was to replace the wire that holds the cabane to the top wing. Had no idea it was a lower mod. It does look very strong.

David

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

Too bad that bird bit the dirt![X(][] The top wing mount was also a bit different. Rory bolted his on, no?

twn

Actually both...

Rory setup his top wing to bolt down to the cabane (no more wire) and he mounted the cabanes to the side of the fusalage. Here are a few more pics of his setup. (He gave me permission to post his pics)

twn

More construction…

Top wing, cabane mount blocks. I used a chunk of pine (cheap 2x4) strong & light, weights next to nothing. I carved the front block to fit into the spars and I also moved the front and rear wing joiners ahead and back 1/8� to make sure that the wing bolts don’t interfere with the wing joiners. Take notice of the piece of 1/4 & 1/16 balsa pinned to the back edge. This was to make up for the hinge line moving forward during the sheeting.

twn

Even more construction…

This is how I went with the ailerons. I enlarged them by 5/16� on the cord and I took them into the fuselage by 1.5� more than stock. I am hoping that by getting the ailerons more into the prop stream I will have more control at slower speeds. With the 120ax the winning prop is a 15-7 xoar or apc and adding 1.5� will allow about 1.75� of aileron into the stream of a 15� prop. If I left the ailerons stock they would only be in 1/4" of the prop stream of a 15� prop. I flushed up the ends of the existing ailerons and the blocks so the fit was tight with no gaps. I used 30 minute epoxy and I poked a whack load of tiny holes in the wood for the epoxy to penetrate into for more strength. I put the epoxy on to both ends of the pieces of wood to be glued and then applied a bit of heat to get it to soak in better and then pressed them together and pinned it all down to a flat surface.

Once cured I used the wood pecker tool to poke a lot of small short holes on the leading edge of the aileron and the 1/16 and the 1/4 balsa that I used to enlarge the cord of the ailerons and glued them onto the leading edge with medium ca. I used a straight edge to keep the aileron straight while gluing. I also used steam prior to this to get them as straight as possible. Be warned if you don’t and you glue the leading edge any warp will probably stay forever. I was a bit apprehensive of this route as I thought it might be weak and heavy but they only gained a minor amount of grams and I twist tested each aileron and WOW are they ever strong. Mo worries… I was going to sheet new hollow ailerons but my buddy Rory advised me not to with this plane.

I will be beveling both wing TE and aileron LE about 30 degrees each.

twn

Fusalage construction.

With the fuselage I decided to put the mods in for the side mounted cabanes in the event that I go that route. I snugly fit existing kit plywood into the side of the fuselage and used 30 minute epoxy. This fit needs to be snug with no gaps to be strong. I sanded it flat, I then applied aircraft grade 1/16 plywood over top with 30 minute epoxy. I use the wood pecker tool to poke a bunch of holes in both fuselage and 1/16 to make this as strong a possible and then I clamped the whole thing and left to cure.

I used 30 minute epoxy & micro balloons to glue some Sullivan nylon push rods into the opening for the pull-pull cables, if you do this be sure to sand the pushrod material with 80 first and apply a bit of non-micro balloon epoxy to the opening of the wood to grab better then squish the micro-balloon mixture in. This way better, more positive than letting the cables slap around in a big gumby hole. I sanded this all flat. This is difficult because the nylon is very hard and the wood sands faster around it, pain in the butt. Best to use an exacto at first then use a razor planer very carefully to get it very close then sand flat. To get the covering to stick to this use some balsrite on the plastic. It will stick like snot.

I also used kit plywood and 30 minute epoxy to fill the tail section so I could mount the servos where I wanted them. I added some more kit ply to the backside of the servo opening for strength.


I should add, its best to use 30 minute epoxy to attach the wing/gear doublers and triplers to the fusalage sides for best strength. CA is NOT a good idea here. This needs to be strong as the wing will essentially attach to this this through the rails. We don't want a high g blender ripping the bottom wing off... Also I decided to go with the stock gear and this also needs the strength. Again I used the wood pecker to make the lamination as strong as possible!

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Looking good!
Is the ALT high where you fly? The prop size seems really small to me. I am running a 17x6APC on my 1.20AX. Our field is 2,000ASL.


David

twn

We are at about 1500 asl. 2 weeks ago I watched a buddy (mike bacon) fly his 10lbs 120 size ultra stick powered by a 120ax. He was using a apc 16-8 on 15%. My buddy Rory threw him a 15-7 and the vertical was noticably better. With this in mind I am talking about down right insane speed straight up. A 17-6 would probably be better for slow work, harrier, hovering etc...

For me in the end I will just have to try different props untill I find the right one for me.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I have only had the 17x6 on mine. I can grab the top wing, point the nose up, throttle it up and let go. The vertical is very impressive, to say the least.
I am running 15% and a OS #8 plug. I am also using the stock muffler with 90 degree adapter. There may be quite a bit of difference in mufflers. I don't think the adapter is the best thing in the world for scavenging. I am however in line with the RPM readings over in that forum.

David

twn

AWSOME!! I'm probably comparing apples to oranges. A ultra stick at 10-11 lbs is probably much different from an ultimate at 7-8lbs.

twn

Rory passed a video on of him flying his ulti. I beleive it was taken when he was running the ys110 in it. He moved to a ys120 and now currently is running a ys140.

http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o...imateVideo.flv

He never goes over half throttle! Thanks for the video Rory!

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks soo much for those build pics, T. I 'm gettin' my 'works tonight, but also need to get some elevator servo's for this build. Are you sure your sure you have made up yer mind on which ones, cuz I will go with you on that for the split elev. I think I'll still go with the 645's else where, tho. I'm gonna run the Dualsky 2000mAh 7.4 li-po receiver battery. Its not rated at that voltage, but I replaced the 6v pack from my 'Poke with it and what a difference it makes! Definitely quicker than the 645's I have running on my 1/10 stadium truck bec'd to 6v. The Spectrum rx handles upto 9.6v.

twn

If you are gona buy servos go with 645 all round. Keep your servos speeds the same or close. I only decided to use 625 on the elevator because they are similar in speed to a 985 which is what I'm using on the ailerons and rudder. You could go with 985 but they are 60-70 bucks a pop. I just happen to have some...

Also if you are putting yer elevator servos in the tail build the tail as light as you can! Don't use an after market tail wheel setup. The one in the kit is just fine and light. Go with foam wheels all round. Or use the little tiny Sullivan 3/4" one on the tail...

Keep in mind that if you are using 645 or 625 servos (analog) on a split elevator to get the halves to deflect exactly as each other you have to flip the wires on the pot of one of the servos (inside it) and permanently reverse it. If you use digital servos like 5625 or 5645 you can do it with the programmer (easier) but digital servos are much more expensive. Rory says NOT to use the digital mighty mini on the elevators. Even though they are metal geared and more than strong enough the gears are thin and will wear fast. Of course this depends on the way you fly too. If you are doing hard blenders and waterfalls at full speed and wide open up line lomcaveks then DEFINATELY forget the minis.

I am about half way finished the fusalage. I'll post some more pics tonight or tomorrow morning. BTW Lester says that the aeroworks was not at the border but on its way to the store. So check with Linda at the store to see if it is there or if Lester took it with him to Blind Bay for the float fly this weekend. Lester will already be there. Lester also says your pushroods and tube are with him. If you need his cell to talk to him email me I'll shoot it too you. You do remeber where Blind Bay (Sandy Point) is eh? Oh and they charge at the gate even if you are just going to see Lester. Only costed me $3 last time but keep soem change on you just in case. I don't know if I will make it there this weekend. Stacy and I are probably going to our field on Sunday. I want to try out my new carbon gear on my 260. She sits a good 3" taller now and WOW are they ever stiff and freakishly thin!![X(]

twn

More progress...

twn

And some more!

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

Wanna finish mine?

twn

not really! [X(]

r u giving up? You were doing fine.

twn

Some minor updates...

I attached the stab here. As you can see very little epoxy was used. Be care full to ensure the correct incidence is set before gluing the stab down. I believe it was +1.25 degrees. When I first started fitting the stab the kit only had +.5 degrees so I had to sand the rest into it... All pretty much straight forward. I set the correct placement by lining it up with the lower wing, pushed in 2 pins to be able to quickly put it back with little effort exactly where I set it, and then threw a level on it to set it level with the fuselage and my work surface. As usual I poked a bunch of holes with the wood pecker to increase the joint strength. Done...

twn

And the rudder. Pretty much straight forward. I was shocked as the rudder was absolutely square with very little effort in sanding, squeezing, moving etc… Clamped and epoxied with 30 minute (30 minute was also used for the stab.) I lined it up with the center of the fuselage with my long straight edge, done…