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Official RC10GT Thread

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Old 10-15-2012, 07:27 PM
  #2776
JSchubz
 
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Wow, am I going to be busy reading this Thread...111 pages, 2756 posts !?


Hello, first post, new to the forum. I have been searching for a long time for a Forum that has RECENT discussions on the RC10GT!

I bought mine used about 3 years ago. It's got a Novarossi M12 in it, and also came with an OS 15CV (still new in the box!), lots of wheels with tires, and other spare parts.

I ran it on and off for a year or so, until other things came up that took me away from the hobby. (wife, kids, job, etc.)

Fast forward to a week ago...A friend of mine asked if he knew where he could run his RC car.....an RC10GT!

Thats all it took. I knew that now I had someone to race around with, it would be alot more fun.

So I dug it out of the back of the closet. I could find ALL the pieces and parts I had except for ONE thing.....aclutch bell....

So, fifty bucks later, I have (on order) a 15T and a 17T bells, RPM front arms, RPM ball cups, pivot balls, castor blocks, and rear suspension blocks. I won an Ebay bid for a rear CF shock tower...

Yea, I only needed a clutch bell. (I think I may have relapsed, is this the right place to be?)


Ok, I've babbled on long enough. I have LOTS of questions, but I will read through this thread to see if I can find some of the answers.


Well, maybe just one question...Is the Associated 7730 a decent torque pipe for my Novarossi M12? I will not spend $200 on a pipe! 20-50 bucks tops.

The pipe on it now doesn't even have a nipple for the fuel line, it's just shoved in a hole. I have no clue what pipe that is. He has it set up as a rear exaust.


Soooo I guess I will start with....Page One!


~Jeff


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Old 10-23-2012, 02:25 AM
  #2777
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the topshaft gear is steel so i ordered aluminum diff gear and steel idler lightweight outdrives
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:28 PM
  #2778
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i have nicad 800 mah in the tx an rx should i get nimh 2300 mah
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:12 AM
  #2779
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Quick question. Will the steering blocks from at gt2 fit in a gt?
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:14 AM
  #2780
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Hey guys,
It's been a long time since I had my rc-10 running.

It;s an older one, not sure of the model it's been to long. When I was running this one it was top of the line equiped. Best available steering, shocks, Graphite flat chassis, Heavy duty aluminum turnbuckles, etc.

It's a Nitro truck, I have a new in box left over Hpi (Rossi) Nitro star 12, along with a still new HPI 15 Ican use.

A couple of Questions, Are parts still available? I'm asking only because it's at least 12 years old andI'm not sure what to ask for when I break something.

Can Iget aBuggy body or it? I would prefer Buggy body because it's easier to get to the head for glow driver, and I Had a few (Still do) trucks and I'd like a buggy.

I only want to bomb it around the property, no racing.

Thanks foryour help.

Ratt
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:25 AM
  #2781
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: DESERT RATT

Hey guys,
It's been a long time since I had my rc-10 running.

It;s an older one, not sure of the model it's been to long. When I was running this one it was top of the line equiped. Best available steering, shocks, Graphite flat chassis, Heavy duty aluminum turnbuckles, etc.

It's a Nitro truck, I have a new in box left over Hpi (Rossi) Nitro star 12, along with a still new HPI 15 Ican use.

A couple of Questions, Are parts still available? I'm asking only because it's at least 12 years old andI'm not sure what to ask for when I break something.

Can Iget aBuggy body for it? I would prefer Buggy body because it's easier to get to the head for glow driver, and I Had a few (Still do) trucks and I'd like a buggy.

I only want to bomb it around the property, no racing.

Thanks foryour help.

Ratt
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:31 AM
  #2782
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Yes part are available I find most everything on eBay, my LHS has some stuff but there is tons of stuff on eBay.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:19 AM
  #2783
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Thanks. I'll keep this one instead of the HPI rush.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: dzydvl

Yes part are available I find most everything on eBay, my LHS has some stuff but there is tons of stuff on eBay.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:48 AM
  #2784
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I've got an RC10gt with the AE .15 motor in it I recently pulled the carb restricter out and have been tuning it to see what kind of top speed I can get out of it with stock gearing so far I've got it to 43.8 on the GPS. Is that good for this set up? Or do I need to do something different with the tune?
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:56 PM
  #2785
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My first post..... - I have some questions, see bottom of this post -

This is day 1 with my rc10gt and my new OS .18 cvrxs engine. I am 4 tanks into breaking it in.

This is what I did to the parking lot. I'd like to tell you the marks are all from me tire shredding, and some of it probably is, but most is from the exhaust deflector and the super rich mixture.







So, my first impressions? I'm still breaking it in and this has RIDICULOUS power! Those brand new tires are visibly worn down from 4 tanks of (mostly) gentle breaking in.

I do have a question though.... I want to run the exhaust under the chassis and out the back via a tube like a longer version of that exhaust deflector. Can I buy such a thing? Helps keep the truck cleaner.
Also, the truck moves forward while idleing. How do I stop this?
Underneath the exhaust manifold is soggy and messy with some fuel leaking out? Is this normal? How should I fix it?
The front has NO weight. When I steer, they front dont really grab. Could I use counter-weights?

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Old 05-27-2013, 03:35 PM
  #2786
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: justin428
I do have a question though.... I want to run the exhaust under the chassis and out the back via a tube like a longer version of that exhaust deflector. Can I buy such a thing? Helps keep the truck cleaner.
No. Adding a bunch of tubing to the exhaust will screw with the tuning, to the point that you'll have trouble getting it to run. Trust me, I've tried.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: justin428Also, the truck moves forward while idleing. How do I stop this?
Back off your idle. If it still engages at a normal idle, you need a different clutch shoe/spring set up.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: justin428Underneath the exhaust manifold is soggy and messy with some fuel leaking out? Is this normal? How should I fix it?
Bad gasket (or no gasket)?. Make sure it's got a good gasket, and I recommend lock washers on the header bolts. They do tend to back out.

That said, some nitro yuck on the chassis is just part of life with nitro RC. No way around it.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: justin428The front has NO weight. When I steer, they front dont really grab. Could I use counter-weights?
You can weight it down, but just remember, increased power and increased weight is going to result in accelerated wear. RC10GTs are very trim, race-bred trucks, and when you start upping the power, adding weight and bashing them like monster trucks, stuff starts breaking. Believe me.

Aluminum front suspension parts will add a little weight and be functional, but these trucks are just light, and tend to behave that way with more powerful engines. My first 10GT started life with a Picco .21, and is now motivated by an OFNA Force .32. It's fun, but it's stadium racing days are over. It's not well balanced with the added weight (over 2 lbs total), and is WAY over powered for 1/10 courses. Even with a bunch of hand made STEEL parts being some of the 50% weight increase, the thing is still a wheelie monster that barely steers when I'm in it and spins out very easily.

It's a little better behaved now that I lathe turned some new 1/4" steel axles for the front and mounted 2.8" talons all the way around, but still carries the front tires much of the time.

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Old 05-27-2013, 03:55 PM
  #2787
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Thanks for the reply.

The truck is down today because you know that tiny, TINY hex set screw that holds the throttle/brake settings in place? Well I can't find that size hex. guess ill have to grab one from lhs tmrw.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:01 PM
  #2788
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Quote:
The truck is down today because you know that tiny, TINY hex set screw that holds the throttle/brake settings in place? Well I can't find that size hex.
0.050". Smallest key that usually comes in an SAE hex set.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:02 AM
  #2789
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Sixtysixdeuce

Quote:
The truck is down today because you know that tiny, TINY hex set screw that holds the throttle/brake settings in place? Well I can't find that size hex.
0.050". Smallest key that usually comes in an SAE hex set.
Yep, that's the little b astard.

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Old 06-07-2013, 09:11 AM
  #2790
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Hello everyone. I've recently pulled my blue chasis RTR GT out of the storage locker. I'm rebuilding the motor at the moment and I'll certainly need a new body. Where or who sells a body that will fit?
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:38 PM
  #2791
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NVM, I found a few on ebay.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:07 AM
  #2792
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I lost a throttle pivot nut so I ordered a factory team aluminum throttle pivot with a star washer should be even better
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:10 AM
  #2793
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should I adjust the throttle carb opening with linkage hooked up or not?
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:57 AM
  #2794
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how do I get my wheels to turn all the way left and right it seems like the servo isn't workin I tried another servo it does the same thing it just turns half way either way thanks
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:47 PM
  #2795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjhm9102 View Post
should I adjust the throttle carb opening with linkage hooked up or not?
yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjhm9102 View Post
how do I get my wheels to turn all the way left and right it seems like the servo isn't workin I tried another servo it does the same thing it just turns half way either way thanks

Does your radio have End Point Adjustment?
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:35 AM
  #2796
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hi yes the radio is a associated xp2 it has throttle atv and throttle trim I have adjusted it all the way on high so that the carb is closed as far as it will go but still idles to high as far as the steering it only has steering trim I been thinking bout getting the futaba 3 pk

Last edited by sjhm9102; 08-18-2013 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:44 AM
  #2797
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Sounds like mechanical adjustments will need to me made. You can move the metal linkage rods away from the center of the servo arm for more throw at the wheels.

The carb only sounds like it might need an idle screw adjustment or maybe the low speed needle is too lean.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:33 AM
  #2798
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the idle screw is adjusted as far as it will go ill try the low speed needle the book says 45 degrees counterclockwise for a richer setting the motor got hot yesterday after a fast run a drop of water just sizzled off the head as for the steering I got it too turn it was the tie rods too much toe -in thanks
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:03 PM
  #2799
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Quote:
the idle screw is adjusted as far as it will go
Backed off 100%, it will completely close the venturi; something else has to be holding it open.


Quote:
ill try the low speed needle the book says 45 degrees counterclockwise for a richer setting the motor got hot yesterday after a fast run a drop of water just sizzled off the head
Boiling water on the heatsink tells you nothing of engine temp, except that it's over 212*F Well, most nitro engines run happily between 210 and 240, sometimes even higher. You need to get an infrared thermometer on it before you determine that it's too hot. However, err on the side of caution and run rich if unsure. You should get a trail of blue smoke during initial acceleration, and no cutting out at WOT. If it bogs, it's too rich. If it pulses at RPM, it's too lean.

As for which needle, the LSN is for off-the-line throttle response. The HSN is the one you need to play with most likely.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:18 AM
  #2800
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i did not add aluminum shock towers or a arms cause of weight
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