David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the info

roydefiant

This is the motor I’m using in a 1/4 scale hawker hurricane. Also have started a 1/4 scale Saab J21 which will use the same motor.

planenutzz

Bit of progress. Need to order a few things still.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Looks Great Peter, not too much longer now!

I have been busy with work and baseball and I forgot to follow up about the baffle. I did complete that last week and here are a couple pictures with and without the photo. I don't have a UMS 180 here to test fit. But maybe I can send the file and you can hand cut with paper or cardboard to test the fit and then I can tweak it if needed and then I can laser cut it and mail it to you or you could hand cut from ply. Just want to make sure this fits first. Since, the photos of the 180, must be off a little bit. When you create the 275mm diameter circle, it doe not perfectly align over the circle in the picture. It is all patterned from an anchor point in the center of the prop hub and used 72 degrees. Talk soon.

planenutzz

Jason,
thanks for that, happy to do a trial fit and see how it goes. Don't forger the engine box has side thrust built in. Might be throwing your calcs a little?

cheers
P

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Hello Peter,

No worries, I would appreciate the trial fit and feedback. I sent you the .dxf file for you to review and evaluate. I just design it straight on and with the 15" diameter OD, it can be trimmed to fit to account for the right thrust and most situations. That can all be modified though and I could make it specific to the T-28, would just have to figure the dimensions of the cowl at the proper station where the engine and baffle would sit. The main issue was the picture I found looks like a scanned photo and its certainly a little oblique/skewed and you can see that with the spacing on top of the cutouts around rocker arms.

Thanks and talk soon.

Jason

planenutzz

thanks Jason, I was able to view the .dxf using a google extension. I'll see if I can import into a pdf program and scale to the size you have then print out.

cheers
P

planenutzz

I fitted first servo into a stab half, tricky to get it in there. I would have liked to use the nut/bolt setup that came with the Savox servos but can't get access so will have to use the screws. The ones I am using are a larger gauge so should be ok.
also cut the slot for the servo arm. I presently have a 1./5 inch allow arm but may go down to a 1.25 inch. Allowed a bit more in the slot for just in case.
I went through the bag of bits looking for the rods and while I found 2 of what look to be M3 rods x 60mm (ex thread) all the others are very thin and flimsy so won't be using those for any thing but gear doors.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I can convert it for you and send you the .pdf. I will send you the email in a few minutes

planenutzz

thanks for that, much appreciated!! I owe you a beer!

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

No problem! I like Victoria Bitter! I converted it and sent it! Talk soon!

planenutzz

Got it thanks mate, I'll print, put on cardboard and give it a try.

VB? Uggggh go for a crownie, much smoother!

planenutzz

Gents, for those who have installed your flaps and ailerons already what setup did you use? External horns or did you use the hidden horn method?
If the latter id be keen to see some photos.
thanks

planenutzz

More goodies on the way for this. Unilights and 16 pin multi-connectors. The pins for those connectors are $$$$$

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Awesome, I have not got my lights on order yet, but my Vario Prop order showed up today and very nice!

planenutzz

yeah they certainly are nice. Sing out if you want my list for the lights.

Need to get some M3 rods and probably more M3 captive ball links. I'm not going to use the rods the kit comes with but will put those into my stash of stuff I'll probably never use!

planenutzz

Fitted most of the flight control servos, no linkages as yet. As I am using the internal method of linkages for flaps I had to put those servos on a slight angle from square as there is a large chunk of plywood that holds the anti-rotation pin in place and I really did not want to cut that.
I'll enlarge the pushrod opening a bit to compensate for the servo angle.

Unilights and 16 pin connectors should be here this week.

Need to order some more alloy arms, the ones I have are too long. I'll get some 1" & 1.25" & some control rods in required lengths, not sure on length at this stage.

planenutzz

Not much to report. UniLights and the 16 pin connectors arrived. Working up an order for more alloy servo arms, 1.25 & 1". Need some rods of various sizes, not sure if I will go with bought ones or make some out of 2mm & 3mm threaded rod then use brass tube over the outside.
I did open up the holes on the air brake which came out nicely though made a big mess. Vacuum cleaner will sort that out.

While I am working out what I need for control rods I may start the process of fitting the retracts and doors.

planenutzz

Speed brake servo linkage done. On to the inner gear door setup.

planenutzz

Inner gear door linkages done. Put some tri stock gussets under gear rails as well.
Not sure of the capabilities of the controller as it will need to reverse one servo and the doors need to stay open when gear is down.

Will be onto main retracts and associated doors next.

planenutzz

had to do some tweaking to speed brake servo arm, rod length etc so the arm is out of the way of the wheel. It is very close now.
Started work on the gear doors. Still trying to work out how to get those flat hinges installed into the wing.
Door that goes over the wheel is tricky and will be taking my time on that.

Retract leg is just sitting there to work out where it needs to sit. I may need to raise the retract a mil or so so that bottom of the leg does not wack the gear bay rib.


Not much to say, this bit is simple. Will split the bottom open to allow the flat hinges to be fitted.

planenutzz

Still working on gear doors. I'm doing the ones over the wheels at present. Goop should be cured by ow so hopefully I have it correct. Then will work out where the holes go for the upper bracket.

planenutzz

Just need to screw a piece of plywood over the hinges so that the lower doors can be removed easily.
I'm happy with how the doors turned out, very fiddly and lots of checking this and that.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Looking Good Peter!

planenutzz

thanks mate, where are you up to with yours?