Flyinhi1

Been thinking about upgrading to brushless in mine. If you did, or know someone.....what's the setup? Who's got the best deal on a combo? Any mods needed to the chassis to accomodate the upgrade?

SillyWillie-Buh!

My Feedback: (2)

Couple guys at my local track do. I had the chance to drive one brushless and it is 'smooth as butter! The SCB drives like it is on rails I tell ya!!!

Flyinhi1

After driving mine for a couple weeks now, I changed the rear tires to Pro Line Trenchers. They look great but no real performance increase. Still, no info/recomends on a brushless combo for this buggy.......anyone? Concerned about space for the esc on this car and wondering what's been done by others that pretty much drops right in, if that's not asking too much.

crazy nick

My Feedback: (29)

This is the motor I run in mine with a mamba max pro and a revtech 6000mah 28c 2s lipo http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....product_id=324

Flyinhi1

WoW! That's an expensive motor! Looks like an awesome list of specs though.

crazy nick

My Feedback: (29)

A ton of torque but comes in very smooth. It also sounds nothing like a typical brushless motor.

67Stingrayj

I picked this RC up for cheap off a buddy. It currently has a brushed setup. He threw in a Losi sensored brushless motor for free but I don't have a brushless ESC just yet. I know there are LOADS of options out there. I have been thinking about getting this ESC i found on eBay. Seems to be a crap shoot but I'm broke.

Before I take the plunge, any of you got an ESC that works well on this buggy given the space restrictions? I have been in the hobby now for 7 months and this is going to be my first plunge into a Brushless system. What's the "best bang for your buck" ESC out there? Keep in mind my wife hates that I'm into this hobby and have to keep costs low and value high.

RustyUs

Those Blue 120A ESC eBay specials are good. They only like 2S (anything over 7cell NiMh?) even though specs say 3S capable. I even seen some with specs stating 4S capable...yeah right. In their dreams . I've fried the internal BECs in two of the 120A ESCs running 3S on my 1/8 scale buggy. For the past couple of days I've been putting a beating on the ESC. I'm currently running 3S on the one gimpy "blue" speed control with a CC BEC powering receiver/servo... So far, so good . The ESCs don't come with instructions (the ones I got didn't come with anything but anti-static bag). The HobbyWing programming cards will work with the ESC as well.

mrbuggy1987

been beatin mine up too rusty, so far so good,lol.

67Stingrayj

Guys,
My brushless system seems slow and I'm not sure why. In fact, I had better acceleration and top speed from my brushed ESC and Motor. Anyone know why? I'm posting some pics of my setup. I wonder if it has anything to do with the ESC I just bought off ebay for $20. I was given the motor for free.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I would guess that the motor has been over-heated and is no good anymore.
Nice lookin' buggy. I assume it is the same scale and dimensions as your typical SCT? Do you race it?

67Stingrayj

I just got into the hobby this year so no I don't race yet. Kids cost money so this hobby takes the back seat if you know what I mean.

I love the look of the thing too. Very realistic. It's the same size and scale as the Losi xxx SCT. This thing handles like a dream compared to my other RC (which isn't saying much). I'm really surprised these things aren't more popular. Getting upgrades for it is next to impossible.

Is there any way to test the motor? Is there no way the ESC is the problem? I really don't want it to be the motor. It's taken me this long to be able to get a brushless system in an RC due to the cost. I was really hoping someone would say it was just a matter of programming the ESC. Reverse is at a snails pace so I really think the Esc has something to do with it. Let me know Ya'll!

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Tough to determine for sure what the issue is without being able to swap out components to isolate the faulty one. If you had another motor, just to test, would tell you a lot. Can you borrow one?

I doubt the ESC is the problem. If it functions, it's probably ok. It's possible the output transistors have been damaged, but if they were, it's more likely they would just fail outright. However, if the motor has been over heated for extended periods, the magnets loose strength and thus, motor power. Get what you pay for. 😏

Btw, you did disable any Lipo low-voltage cut off?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I enjoy the Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series. So I was wondering why no one had come out with an RC SCB to compliment the SCT racing class. Certainly would be more like scale short course racing with an SCB type buggy than the certainly-not-scale buggies raced in modern RC racing. Imagine, a whole new class! But the techno-buggies dominate. They're kinda the Formula 1 of RC.

I totally get doing this on a budget. Look at a Hobbywing motor for an inexpensive replacement. They have "spec" motors for short course racing.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Shoot, missed.....
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...100030/p279101

67Stingrayj

Lipo low voltage cut off? Why is my reverse so slow? I notice when I mash on the throttle, the motor doesn't immediately go to full RPM. Is there any programming on this model ESC?

RustyUs

When I hooked up my HobbyWing programming card to the "blue" 120A ESC, it's the same list as this (from my HobbyWing EZRun ESC):

The black squares are the ESC's default settings. My blue ESCs had 100% punch setting, and full timing advanced. I don't recall what the Low Voltage Cutoff default was. I tried to program the ESC using the "counting LED and beeps" method, but had no luck.

67Stingrayj

That's very deflating to say the least. When I bought this ESC I literally got an ESC in a static proof bag. No paperwork or anything. How do you know so much about this ESC Rusty? For now I guess I'll put my brushed motor and ESC back in.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Ray man, that's not good. You gotta have some kind of info on the ESC, or yer kinda lost. Unless of course one of the guys like Rusty has experience with the particular item. You should really just go buy a Hobbywing system of appropriate spec, it comes with a programming card, AND instructions. So you'd be all set. They aren't all that pricey either.

Most brushless ESCs have a low voltage cutoff of Lipos so they don't drain the lipo cells below 3.0V per cell. Doing so can damage them. Therefore, the cutoff feature that is usually set at 3.4V default, with options to drop it or raise it by a few tenths of a volt. But if you are running a NiMh pack in the car, you need to disable the LVC or it will prematurely cut the power to the motor. Hence the "my car runs for a little while then gets really slow" thing.

67Stingrayj

OK, so I'm still not sure if I need to program this ESC or not. I think I do on account the reverse is way slow. I was looking for a manual for the TSKY 120a ESC but didn't have any luck. Apparently i can program it with a USB connector, but I don't have one or want to buy one. There is also a card that can be used but again I don't want to buy one unless I must. The last way to program it is the manual method following the clicks and beeps of the ESC. Everywhere I look I could not find a manual to follow. Most reviews on youtube said they also only got the ESC and nothing else. I see now why this thing was so inexpensive. I'm sure it's a great ESC, but I can't tell just yet. Any help would be appreciated. I really thought putting a brushless system in the car would give it an entirely new personality but so far it's just inebriated the thing.

One thing worth mentioning. I asked the guy who gave it to me for free what he thought. He graduated into RC Planes so he was just giving most of his RC Car stuff away. He ran it one time without the sensored wires connected and it acted strange. Can you damage a sensored brushless motor if you don't use the sensor wire?

When I first soldered the wires on, I realized that I connected the A to C, and the C to A. When i tried to run it the thing sputtered. Maybe I did some irreversible damage? I didn't run the car that way or anything. It was just a quick check to see if my connections worked kind of thing. I don't think it did any damage considering it works, just not as ferociously as I had expected.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

For $9 you can buy the programming card
From what I hear, the Hobbywing card works on that ESC, then you'll be able to determine what's what on the ESC.

Soldering the couple wires in the wrong place will just make the motor run in reverse.

Reverse speed is usually slower than forward, or should be. That is one of the programmable features.

A sensored motor WILL "run funny" if the sensor cable is not connected, but it won't damage anything, AFAIK. That is another possible programmable feature of the ESC: Sensored or Sensor-less mode. If he ran it in sensored mode without the cable connected, sure, it's gonna act weird.

67Stingrayj

so I was looking. The brushless motor i have in there is a 17.5 turn. Maybe that's why it never tops our to fast? I run this thing as hard as I can the the motor temps never get above 100. And that was on a 100 degree day too. Temps are defiantly in the 90s. Do I just not have a fast motor in it? From what I know the greater the number of turns on the motor, the higher the torque but lower the top end speed.

You guys think this could be my problem? If so, how do I get more speed? Larger gear?

67Stingrayj

Well guys, we'll see what happens when I get a new pinion gear. I currently have a 18 tooth but I have a 23 tooth on the way. I'll let you know the motor temps.

67Stingrayj

OK Community, I put in a 25 tooth pinion gear today thinking it would increase the speed on my 17.5 turn sensored burshless motor and no dice. I really hope it's not the new ESC i got. The brushed motor/ESC combo I had on there previously reacts faster on the throttle and turns the motor faster. I was hoping putting in a brushless system would make this thing a complete wheelie monster but it barely turns the wheels fast enough to make them pizza cutter. I mean my brushed system does a better job! What the heck?

RustyUs

You should be getting in the 25mph range easily with that 17.5T motor. I don't know about your buggy becoming a wheelie machine with that 17.5T motor though. The whole torque vs. speed thing, with brushless motors is kinda out of proportion. I am not going into a debate. In general brushed motor terms: higher torque...higher number of turns; more speed...less turns. On the extreme outer edges of the brushless motor spectrum I think you will see a great torque vs. speed difference. But in mid range range...not so much. Castle has said it better than I can explain my thoughts:

"High power capability brushless systems can act very differently than brushed systems and even differently than other brushless car systems. Where you used to approach gearing from a sense of managing the torque of the motor (smaller pinion gives the motor more torque), in this system you’ll need to look at gearing only as a simple matter of top speed at full throttle. For example: If you are not able to get up to full throttle on the longest straight at the track (car is too fast) you should gear down to the point at which you are actually using the whole range of the throttle trigger including full throttle at times. If you never get to full throttle, or have to dial down your throttle EPA, you are running the system hotter and with less runtime than you could have if you geared down. So again, think of gearing only in terms of what speed you can actually use at full throttle.

A high power capable brushless motor in electrical engineering and physics terms, has unlimited torque. We live in “the real world” so technically for us that’s not totally true, but – a brushed motor has a torque level that due to its design has an upper limit, regardless of how much power is being applied to it. That limit is low enough that you can see it clearly on an average track On the other hand, a high power brushless motor’s limit to torque in an RC vehicle is not within the bounds of the motor itself so much, but rather falls on the ability of the battery to deliver current to it. We generally don’t describe these motors in terms of “one has more torque than the other”, but rather “the 7700Kv motor is faster and draws more current than a 5700Kv motor in the same vehicle”. It draws more current, because it’s making the car go faster and doing more work than the 5700 motor is. As long as the batteries used are very good at supplying current without an excess of voltage depression (low internal resistance is good) both motors will appear to have the same torque, even though one is much faster than the other. Battery technology is constantly improving, and the first thing you’ll notice when you use a very good battery pack (or perhaps trying a Lipo pack for the first time) with these systems is a more “punchy” feel when you accelerate. The faster you set up the car to go at full throttle, the more reliant you are on good batteries to flow that current into the motor and maintain acceleration performance. So think of torque as a function of battery capability only."

Some will disagree, and that's fine. You also have to consider the quality of components use in building motors.