Deception Build
01-14-2010, 11:57 AM
#1
Deception Build
Well the work bench is clean. I just finished up the Miles Reed Fun Fly this morning. I builds just like any Bridi kit. Glue four blocks together and carve an airplane. I have the wing and stab sheeting edged and glued. I laid out the fin/rudder parts and have a few fit issues which are easy fixes. I am not using any CA as it is to hard to plane, carve or sand.
01-14-2010, 05:24 PM
#6
01-14-2010, 06:12 PM
#7
RE: Deception Build
I don't know. Maybe because I started a build thread or said the "E" word. Anyhow, the skins are done and on the cores in the husks for overnight cure. I used 30 minute finishing resin w/ milled fibers. I fixed the gaps on the rudder and fin and are also setting overnight.
01-14-2010, 06:59 PM
#8
01-14-2010, 08:13 PM
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RE: Deception Build
I did that on a little electric Tipo and the setup worked nicely. Especially good if the gear gets held up!
What was the problem with the fin/rudder. I'll have to watch for that in my kit.
Nice birds all the Bridi kits but not the best in QC or wood stock.
David.
What was the problem with the fin/rudder. I'll have to watch for that in my kit.
Nice birds all the Bridi kits but not the best in QC or wood stock.
David.
01-14-2010, 08:22 PM
#11
RE: Deception Build
Zoom in on the rudder/fin assy. I added 1/16 to the rudder to bring the front half to even. I add a piece of 1/16 and 3/32 to the fin to fill that gap. Will be shaping it in the morning. Also they are not the same thickness some fat 1/2".
01-15-2010, 05:17 PM
#13
RE: Deception Build
Here is an update. The fin and rudder are shaped and ready for hinging. Not sure if I'm going w/ live hinge, Klett lg. hinges or Robart hinge points. The wings and stab are sheeted, dihedral has been sanded in the wings. I will cap the wing tonight and the stab left as is for now per plan. You use the stab core as a layout for the opening in the fuse.. And yes, I have three workbenches to build on. The two against the walls are attached to the wall and are very firm, flat and straight.
01-15-2010, 06:06 PM
#14
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RE: Deception Build
Nice work.
I never did understand Jim's note on the stab for the fuse side cutout. I mean, the stab is symmetric about the root - zero dihedral except for taper on either side. The cutout needs to be slightly smaller than the size of the capped stab but not much. Certainly not the dimensions of the sheeted core without the LE/TE's attached. In any case, there is also the FG cloth to take into account if so desired. I can't recall if Jim suggests something for that joint. I used glass cloth to the fuse sides on the stab and to the fairings on the wing.
I guess a cut is a cut.
Ed, your B&D's must be pneumatic, right? If not, I need to see how you do this.
David.
I never did understand Jim's note on the stab for the fuse side cutout. I mean, the stab is symmetric about the root - zero dihedral except for taper on either side. The cutout needs to be slightly smaller than the size of the capped stab but not much. Certainly not the dimensions of the sheeted core without the LE/TE's attached. In any case, there is also the FG cloth to take into account if so desired. I can't recall if Jim suggests something for that joint. I used glass cloth to the fuse sides on the stab and to the fairings on the wing.
I guess a cut is a cut.
Ed, your B&D's must be pneumatic, right? If not, I need to see how you do this.
David.
01-15-2010, 06:33 PM
#15
RE: Deception Build
Dave
You glass the center section w/ 3 oz. glass. I will glass the whole stab w/ .6 oz. before it put it in. This way all I have to do is make a fillet. The B&D's are air driven. I'll put in Robart air restrictors to keep them from slapping up and down.
You glass the center section w/ 3 oz. glass. I will glass the whole stab w/ .6 oz. before it put it in. This way all I have to do is make a fillet. The B&D's are air driven. I'll put in Robart air restrictors to keep them from slapping up and down.
01-15-2010, 07:15 PM
#16
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RE: Deception Build
Right,
I was trying to address the delayed stab finishing recommendation. I saw no need for it nor did it make much sense in my build.
Sounds like we'll have a fully painted Deception - great!
David.
I was trying to address the delayed stab finishing recommendation. I saw no need for it nor did it make much sense in my build.
Sounds like we'll have a fully painted Deception - great!
David.
01-15-2010, 10:54 PM
#17
RE: Deception Build
Nice to see another DECEPTION being built.
What a great plane, Flew my 2 with Black head SE Rossi’s back in the day.
You will definitely enjoy this plane, I did. Will be following your build.
What a great plane, Flew my 2 with Black head SE Rossi’s back in the day.
You will definitely enjoy this plane, I did. Will be following your build.
01-16-2010, 12:05 AM
#18
RE: Deception Build
Thanks Paul
I have the LE and TE capped. I like the GP glue I'm using. I spread a light coat on both the caps and wing. I had to move one a little and it didn't want to pull apart after 2 minutes. I also included a few shots of my Bob Smith T2A I'm finishing up. I lost intrest in it a while ago as I was in the rubbing out phase. It will have a Enya .60 Chrome Mk IV AAC w/ the 10mm carb in the nose.
Ed
I have the LE and TE capped. I like the GP glue I'm using. I spread a light coat on both the caps and wing. I had to move one a little and it didn't want to pull apart after 2 minutes. I also included a few shots of my Bob Smith T2A I'm finishing up. I lost intrest in it a while ago as I was in the rubbing out phase. It will have a Enya .60 Chrome Mk IV AAC w/ the 10mm carb in the nose.
Ed
01-16-2010, 07:28 PM
#19
RE: Deception Build
Back to it. Wings are capped and tips glued in place.
Dave, this is how I mount my gear in foam wings. I will cap the plate with 3/32" balsa to keep the gear flush w/ the bottom of the wing. The wing is sheeted with 1/16" balsa. It was actually some pretty light stuff. but the tips and fuse. top block is another story. May have to get out the 40 grit.
Dave, this is how I mount my gear in foam wings. I will cap the plate with 3/32" balsa to keep the gear flush w/ the bottom of the wing. The wing is sheeted with 1/16" balsa. It was actually some pretty light stuff. but the tips and fuse. top block is another story. May have to get out the 40 grit.
01-16-2010, 08:55 PM
#20
RE: Deception Build
Ed,
Moving along nicely, I must say.
All you guys that take the time to do a build thread need to be commended.
I can’t fathom doing a build with the picture taking and commentary that you guys do.
Maybee someday if my computer skills get better I’ll give it a shot.
I have to comment on the T2A, just superb. Nice Job.
Moving along nicely, I must say.
All you guys that take the time to do a build thread need to be commended.
I can’t fathom doing a build with the picture taking and commentary that you guys do.
Maybee someday if my computer skills get better I’ll give it a shot.
I have to comment on the T2A, just superb. Nice Job.
01-16-2010, 09:44 PM
#21
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RE: Deception Build
ORIGINAL: edp
Back to it. Wings are capped and tips glued in place.
Dave, this is how I mount my gear in foam wings. I will cap the plate with 3/32'' balsa to keep the gear flush w/ the bottom of the wing. The wing is sheeted with 1/16'' balsa. It was actually some pretty light stuff. but the tips and fuse. top block is another story. May have to get out the 40 grit.
Back to it. Wings are capped and tips glued in place.
Dave, this is how I mount my gear in foam wings. I will cap the plate with 3/32'' balsa to keep the gear flush w/ the bottom of the wing. The wing is sheeted with 1/16'' balsa. It was actually some pretty light stuff. but the tips and fuse. top block is another story. May have to get out the 40 grit.
nice and classic. I was going to say, just by looking at the wings, you can see that the wood is pretty good. A quick browse of my kit revealed some pretty scary pieces of wood! I'll probably make use of them as lead weights for builds...
Both of my Tipo kits had some rock hard ailerons (3 of 4) also heavy as lead. In one of them, the left aileron weighed twice as much as the right! I plan to drill them out so I used them anyway and at least they should be less warp prone.
At first I thought you had mechanical B&D's and I was really curious to see how you would get those into a skinned wing - still doable but a lot harder. Do you use balsa for the wells or ply? I saw someone use those bendable straws for kids as a conduit for the lines - it was pretty cool actually. Tiny hole entering the well. But I guess running the lines parallel and above the wells might be even more elegant.
Maybe you can make some canoes out of the tips once they are carved to shape. Or drill them out from the bottom - good way to add tip weight when balancing.
I guess I'm seeing my Deception being built vacariosly through your thread! Sorry.
Keep up the nice work.
David.
01-21-2010, 03:32 PM
#22
RE: Deception Build
Well, I got that pesky work week out of the way. The tips are on and rough shaped until I fit the ailerons. They didn't weigh that much after I pre trimed them. This is how I make ply LG mounts for foam wings. The dowels fit into pockets and the plate is epoxied in. I will cover it over w/ 3/32" to make the gear flush with the skins. I have been thinking af putting anhedral in the stab after reading the "Superception Thread". I know the Tipo liked it for knife edge. I can add the 1/4" per side with larger fillets for the fin.
01-21-2010, 04:15 PM
#23
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RE: Deception Build
Ed,
Superception mods would be very interesting. My first reaction to the thought of an anhedral stab (aside from Jim saying "don't do it!" in his original article - he must have later...), was the tolerance for up elevator if keeping the rudder/elevator relationship per plans. With anhedral, the inner elevators would likely interfere with the rudder unless they were opened up in typical pattern fashion (cut at an angle).
Of course, a full height rudder would also be an option (again, despite Jim saying not a "good idea") along with the fuse faired fin LE. It seems to me that a simple built up "Tipo like" fin (3/32" or 1/8" angled sides) would be easier and cleaner than building up with heavy fillets on a slab fin but both are viable I suppose.
I guess the issue with anhedral stabs is cross-wind.
Great work!
David.
Superception mods would be very interesting. My first reaction to the thought of an anhedral stab (aside from Jim saying "don't do it!" in his original article - he must have later...), was the tolerance for up elevator if keeping the rudder/elevator relationship per plans. With anhedral, the inner elevators would likely interfere with the rudder unless they were opened up in typical pattern fashion (cut at an angle).
Of course, a full height rudder would also be an option (again, despite Jim saying not a "good idea") along with the fuse faired fin LE. It seems to me that a simple built up "Tipo like" fin (3/32" or 1/8" angled sides) would be easier and cleaner than building up with heavy fillets on a slab fin but both are viable I suppose.
I guess the issue with anhedral stabs is cross-wind.
Great work!
David.
01-21-2010, 04:30 PM
#24
RE: Deception Build
The easier mod would be the stab and elevators. I can clip the inside edge like the Tipo. and leave the fin alone. Plus a anhedral stab does have a "look at me" effect at the field. I almost took the anhedral OUT of my third Tipo to see what the effects would be. As for cross winds, we have them a lot at our field and are well versed on how to correct for them. Winds East or West are rare for us. They always seem to be a quartering type. We fly from a full scale airport so we can adjust our position in or out a little.