Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
06-22-2009, 01:54 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Pretty Cool! I wish I would have known you were flying at Apollo today, I would have drove down to see it! Thanks for posting the video.
Tony Accurso
Edwards AFB, CA
Tony Accurso
Edwards AFB, CA
06-22-2009, 01:58 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Hey Tony,
Next time I head out (usually on friday or sunday afternoons if there are no events going on) I'll send you a PMa day in advance.
Next time I head out (usually on friday or sunday afternoons if there are no events going on) I'll send you a PMa day in advance.
06-22-2009, 09:21 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
That's it. 4400kV at 11V is cooking. I did not have guts to fly WOT like you do, but this is the power that gets out of the plane all the performance. You are using almost twice bigger battery than I do what means your weight is additional 3 oz, but it looks like it does not affect low speed performance at all. Good job on the plane and on the flying.
06-22-2009, 05:31 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Sorry, I forgot about you all, new plane came in yesterday. We took itout to the field, but the camera ran out of battery. We flew anyway. Itwas great. Lots of power. It took off in about 30 ft. It did loops androlls, and anything else you wanted. But while I was coming in for alanding, the right engine flew off of the plane
Stupid cheap epoxy
The DF unit landed on the ground without any problems, but the rest of the plane spiraled into the ground from 75 feet up.To make a long story short, I brought it home in a plastic bag.I'll try rebuilding it again, if I can find which piece goes where. Thankfully, all electronics were OK.
Nice video irishwrath. Cameraman was very shaky. He was probably shaking in fear of the power of that plane [
] . Man, i was scared the wing would fly off.WOT would be comparable to my F-22 and that thing is a speed demon.
Nick
Stupid cheap epoxy
The DF unit landed on the ground without any problems, but the rest of the plane spiraled into the ground from 75 feet up.To make a long story short, I brought it home in a plastic bag.I'll try rebuilding it again, if I can find which piece goes where. Thankfully, all electronics were OK.
Nice video irishwrath. Cameraman was very shaky. He was probably shaking in fear of the power of that plane [
] . Man, i was scared the wing would fly off.WOT would be comparable to my F-22 and that thing is a speed demon.Nick
06-22-2009, 06:05 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Well yeah...as far as the wings ripping off, I've put Carbon Fiber throughout the main wing and the tail. The vertical stab's seem to be pretty stable so I'm leaving those alone....for now. Funny thing is...I wasn't even at WOT through 95% of the flight. I'd say I was at around 80-85% throttle through the flight. Idon't feel the need to go WOT on this plane with this setup.
06-24-2009, 03:20 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Hi all;
First, thanx to all of your combined advice and research on up-powering this Guanli slug of an airplane. going to use a single 3s 2200mah 11.1v lipo for power to both engines, would like to go with a single ESC, so what motors, ESC, and fan units? Rysium? Second, thanx to TonyA for the original tech orders on the "Lizard scheme" green camo; I've lost my copies over the years. As I said in another string here, I painted A-10's at Myrtle Beach AFB back in the early 80's and that was the scheme we were using at the time. I'll post some good pics as soon as I can get down to Warbird park; we have tail#097 there which has been restored to near what we were doing then. We also have an F-100, and an F-8 Crusader which all served with 354th, 355th, and 356th squadrons out of MBAFB. If any of us are looking for good closeups of details on any of the three, I'll be glad to go get them; It's only a 20-minute ride and I've got a new digital camera I'm DYING to try out. Good stuff, this thread.
First, thanx to all of your combined advice and research on up-powering this Guanli slug of an airplane. going to use a single 3s 2200mah 11.1v lipo for power to both engines, would like to go with a single ESC, so what motors, ESC, and fan units? Rysium? Second, thanx to TonyA for the original tech orders on the "Lizard scheme" green camo; I've lost my copies over the years. As I said in another string here, I painted A-10's at Myrtle Beach AFB back in the early 80's and that was the scheme we were using at the time. I'll post some good pics as soon as I can get down to Warbird park; we have tail#097 there which has been restored to near what we were doing then. We also have an F-100, and an F-8 Crusader which all served with 354th, 355th, and 356th squadrons out of MBAFB. If any of us are looking for good closeups of details on any of the three, I'll be glad to go get them; It's only a 20-minute ride and I've got a new digital camera I'm DYING to try out. Good stuff, this thread.
06-24-2009, 12:34 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Well Wolfy,
I'm gonna tell you to use two 25amp ESC's, but if you don't want to then I would suggest using one 60 amp. All my ESC's are Turnigy Plush series. Eflite's blow up all the time, but Castle's are really nice, just pricey. For Motors, I'm gonna say to go with my setup, the Turnigy 4400kv's, but apparently other's seems to be happy with a motor in the 3500kv range. Tons of info in this forum if you'd read through all of it. I don't think anyone can make any more suggestions then whats already been given. Good luck in your build.
I'm gonna tell you to use two 25amp ESC's, but if you don't want to then I would suggest using one 60 amp. All my ESC's are Turnigy Plush series. Eflite's blow up all the time, but Castle's are really nice, just pricey. For Motors, I'm gonna say to go with my setup, the Turnigy 4400kv's, but apparently other's seems to be happy with a motor in the 3500kv range. Tons of info in this forum if you'd read through all of it. I don't think anyone can make any more suggestions then whats already been given. Good luck in your build.
06-24-2009, 01:23 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Hi Wolfy. Welcome to this thread. I had a similar problem when I got my A-10. I didn't know what setup to use. Irishwrath got ahead of me but this was my setup. A single battery will work, but i think a single ESC might not be able to support two motors. Plus, the motors have to be strong enough to get it to fly. I recommend at least 3000 kv to get it into the air. First, try out the A-10 stock and check for vibration. If there is no vibration, you can use the stock fans and just switch the motors. My fans were shaking so hard it was bouncing on the runway. I cut the ducts on the seam and pulled the fans out. Next I ordered [link=http://www.toysonics.com/2.17inch-55mm-6-blade-edf-ducted-fan-unit.html]these[/link] fans. They work great.I installed [link=http://www.advantagehobby.com/product.php?productid=39199&cat=351&page=1]Ammo 3500 kv brushless motors[/link] and connected them to two [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/40aelbrspcoe.html]Exceed RC Volcano Series 25A ESCs[/link]. I was using an 1800mah so 25A was enough for me, but you might want to use [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/30aelbrescsp.html]30A ones[/link]. One ESC will have to power each fan so you don't put too much of a load on the ESC. You MAY be able to run both fans on one ESC if you get a very powerful ESC (55A or more), but I AM NOT SURE. Ask Rysium because he is an expert in exactly calculating how high an ESC has to be rated to run a specific motor (or motors). If he says it is possible, then get an appropriately rated ESC and solder two wires to each wire connecting to the motors. Two from negative, two from posive, and two from signal. Connect one of each wire to the motor. It should work. If you decide to use 2 ESCs, no soldering needs to be done to the motor wires. If you're pretty good at soldering like me, it should be easy and take about 15 minutes. If you use a single ESC, no soldering needs to be done to the battery wires. If you use dual ESCs, then both negatives need to be connected as well as both positives. Then, one wire should be lead from each solder point. Then solder on your favorite connector (preferably deans). Then, use a Y-harness to connect both ESCs to one channel. Its should work great. As you can see, soldering is inevitable unless you use two ESCs with one battery each, but you want to fly your plane, not use it as a barbel, right .
Sorry this post was so long. I pretty much just summarized my whole build of the plane and I hope you get yours flying.
Nick
.Sorry this post was so long. I pretty much just summarized my whole build of the plane and I hope you get yours flying.
Nick
06-24-2009, 01:37 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
ORIGINAL: Razgriz Ace
Hi Wolfy. Welcome to this thread. I had a similar problem when I got my A-10. I didn't know what setup to use. Irishwrath got ahead of me but this was my setup. A single battery will work, but i think a single ESC might not be able to support two motors. Plus, the motors have to be strong enough to get it to fly. I recommend at least 3000 kv to get it into the air. First, try out the A-10 stock and check for vibration. If there is no vibration, you can use the stock fans and just switch the motors. My fans were shaking so hard it was bouncing on the runway. I cut the ducts on the seam and pulled the fans out. Next I ordered [link=http://www.toysonics.com/2.17inch-55mm-6-blade-edf-ducted-fan-unit.html]these[/link] fans. They work great.I installed [link=http://www.advantagehobby.com/product.php?productid=39199&cat=351&page=1]Ammo 3500 kv brushless motors[/link] and connected them to two [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/40aelbrspcoe.html]Exceed RC Volcano Series 25A ESCs[/link]. I was using an 1800mah so 25A was enough for me, but you might want to use [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/30aelbrescsp.html]30A ones[/link]. One ESC will have to power each fan so you don't put too much of a load on the ESC. You MAY be able to run both fans on one ESC if you get a very powerful ESC (55A or more), but I AM NOT SURE. Ask Rysium because he is an expert in exactly calculating how high an ESC has to be rated to run a specific motor (or motors). If he says it is possible, then get an appropriately rated ESC and solder two wires to each wire connecting to the motors. Two from negative, two from posive, and two from signal. Connect one of each wire to the motor. It should work. If you decide to use 2 ESCs, no soldering needs to be done to the motor wires. If you're pretty good at soldering like me, it should be easy and take about 15 minutes. If you use a single ESC, no soldering needs to be done to the battery wires. If you use dual ESCs, then both negatives need to be connected as well as both positives. Then, one wire should be lead from each solder point. Then solder on your favorite connector (preferably deans). Then, use a Y-harness to connect both ESCs to one channel. Its should work great. As you can see, soldering is inevitable unless you use two ESCs with one battery each, but you want to fly your plane, not use it as a barbel, right.
Sorry this post was so long. I pretty much just summarized my whole build of the plane and I hope you get yours flying.
Nick
Hi Wolfy. Welcome to this thread. I had a similar problem when I got my A-10. I didn't know what setup to use. Irishwrath got ahead of me but this was my setup. A single battery will work, but i think a single ESC might not be able to support two motors. Plus, the motors have to be strong enough to get it to fly. I recommend at least 3000 kv to get it into the air. First, try out the A-10 stock and check for vibration. If there is no vibration, you can use the stock fans and just switch the motors. My fans were shaking so hard it was bouncing on the runway. I cut the ducts on the seam and pulled the fans out. Next I ordered [link=http://www.toysonics.com/2.17inch-55mm-6-blade-edf-ducted-fan-unit.html]these[/link] fans. They work great.I installed [link=http://www.advantagehobby.com/product.php?productid=39199&cat=351&page=1]Ammo 3500 kv brushless motors[/link] and connected them to two [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/40aelbrspcoe.html]Exceed RC Volcano Series 25A ESCs[/link]. I was using an 1800mah so 25A was enough for me, but you might want to use [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/30aelbrescsp.html]30A ones[/link]. One ESC will have to power each fan so you don't put too much of a load on the ESC. You MAY be able to run both fans on one ESC if you get a very powerful ESC (55A or more), but I AM NOT SURE. Ask Rysium because he is an expert in exactly calculating how high an ESC has to be rated to run a specific motor (or motors). If he says it is possible, then get an appropriately rated ESC and solder two wires to each wire connecting to the motors. Two from negative, two from posive, and two from signal. Connect one of each wire to the motor. It should work. If you decide to use 2 ESCs, no soldering needs to be done to the motor wires. If you're pretty good at soldering like me, it should be easy and take about 15 minutes. If you use a single ESC, no soldering needs to be done to the battery wires. If you use dual ESCs, then both negatives need to be connected as well as both positives. Then, one wire should be lead from each solder point. Then solder on your favorite connector (preferably deans). Then, use a Y-harness to connect both ESCs to one channel. Its should work great. As you can see, soldering is inevitable unless you use two ESCs with one battery each, but you want to fly your plane, not use it as a barbel, right
.Sorry this post was so long. I pretty much just summarized my whole build of the plane and I hope you get yours flying.
Nick
06-24-2009, 02:29 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Let me add short 2 cents (some will be just confirmation what was written above):
- one ESC usually doesn't work on multiple motors. There are some ESC on the market with manufacturers who claim that these can run two motors, but often it is limited to particular brand/models of motors. I advise to use 2 ESC for 100% guarantee that both motors will start every time. Plus you have additional BEC that gives you piece of mind it will not get hot when powered from 3s LiPo.
- I would suggest a motor at least 3500kV (3000 may be not enough power even with 3s LiPo). I would use 3500 on 3s LiPo, 4040 is quite hot (for me) on 3s LiPo, it is OK for 3s LiFe, 4400 probably will run even on 2s LiPo, on 3s LiPo it is scary.
- 2200mAh battery will be OK if it is true 20C or more. Some 20C are really 15C as the voltage drops seriously under the load. Count about 22A per motor max, 17A constant load.
- one ESC usually doesn't work on multiple motors. There are some ESC on the market with manufacturers who claim that these can run two motors, but often it is limited to particular brand/models of motors. I advise to use 2 ESC for 100% guarantee that both motors will start every time. Plus you have additional BEC that gives you piece of mind it will not get hot when powered from 3s LiPo.
- I would suggest a motor at least 3500kV (3000 may be not enough power even with 3s LiPo). I would use 3500 on 3s LiPo, 4040 is quite hot (for me) on 3s LiPo, it is OK for 3s LiFe, 4400 probably will run even on 2s LiPo, on 3s LiPo it is scary.
- 2200mAh battery will be OK if it is true 20C or more. Some 20C are really 15C as the voltage drops seriously under the load. Count about 22A per motor max, 17A constant load.
06-24-2009, 04:41 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Gentlemen,
I just noticed, that my video have been abused by Nitroplanes again. This time I don't know how it works and I have disabled embedded functionality on youtube, but the video still works. I have enter complain to Nitroplanes support forum.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8877925/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8877925/tm.htm[/link]
This time, if they do not remove my video from their website I will seek a legal help.
I just noticed, that my video have been abused by Nitroplanes again. This time I don't know how it works and I have disabled embedded functionality on youtube, but the video still works. I have enter complain to Nitroplanes support forum.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8877925/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8877925/tm.htm[/link]
This time, if they do not remove my video from their website I will seek a legal help.
06-24-2009, 05:02 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Rysium. you put "DO NOW" instead of DO NOT which kinda says "use my video". Might want to correct that.
In addition, I put a blue screen listing what I use in my plane before every video if I've modified the plane, so users know that it is not a "stock" setup.
In addition, I put a blue screen listing what I use in my plane before every video if I've modified the plane, so users know that it is not a "stock" setup.
06-24-2009, 07:04 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Thanks for the catch. I was quite upset, and then it was easy to make a typo. I expect that Nitroplanes will remove the video from their website or ...
06-24-2009, 09:42 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Thanks for the catch. I was quite upset, and then it was easy to make a typo. I expect that Nitroplanes will remove the video from their website or ...
1. There in so much trouble with people finding out about their terrible brushed planes that they'll do anything to get their reputaion back up.
2. They'll ignore you and not respond like their terrible customer service.
Going legal ALWAYS works. I've heard of countless stories where nitroplanes didn't care about you until the credit card companies got involved. In one thread, a man got a J3 Piper Cub without landing gear. He tried and tried at the Customer Service, but they kept making up excuses. Some guy even told him to shut up. When he brought in the CC companies, they sent him a whole new plane. Nitroplanes is scared out of their wits of losing customers or (more importantly) money
06-27-2009, 11:30 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
ORIGINAL: Razgriz Ace
2. They'll ignore you and not respond like their terrible customer service.
2. They'll ignore you and not respond like their terrible customer service.
I hope this will stop all these e-mails I used to receive directly, via Youtube or even through my my club's website (www.masmrc.com) from all people complaining, that they bought the plane just because they saw the video and they thought the RTF flies like that. Then they looked at the video on Youtube again and after reading the description they were asking me for help. Sounds familiar? Some of you guys participating in that thread went that path, didn't you.
06-27-2009, 11:51 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Sounds familiar? Some of you guys participating in that thread went that path, didn't you.
06-27-2009, 10:38 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Well; now:
Razgriz, I thank you for the excellent links; I believe that these are the mods I'll be using. RysiuM, a question: Will 30A ESC's heat up less than the 25A's under the single battery scenario? I already have a 20c 11.1v 2200mah 3s lipo, and the Thunder smart charger, so I don't want to spend any more for that. I also have a 14.8v 2200mah 4sip lipo; what motor and ESC combo would you recommend? My stock fan units appear to be sound, as they run up to 21,600 RPM on the stock Nicad with no vibration anywhere. Did I get lucky and get good fan units? I've planned out the Gatling gun cooling duct idea, as it's a GREAT one; you can exhaust the hot air through the internal fuse vent on top between the engine nacelles, (more on the construction of this later) and a 3/4" diameter hole at the APU exhaust located under the left engine nacelle. I forgot who suggested that, but thank you. Also, everyone needs to LOOK at their Pics of the real airframe; the ventral fins at the junction of the wing root/fuse are missing, and they are critical to the yaw stability of the real A-10. I made them out of 1/8 balsa. I believe your strafing runs will appear smoother with them, as there's no yaw control on this plane (yet). I had the pleasure of working on the A-10's assigned to the Myrtle Beach AFB back in the early 80's, so the airplane's details and STC's are kinda ingrained in me; I know every inch of the airframe. Also thanks to the gent that posted the original Technical orders for the "Lizard" camoflage paint scheme; I've lost my copies over the years. My job was actually corrosion control, so really what I did was strip, sand and paint 72 airframes. We in MB have tail # 097 at Warbird park, so as soon as I can get down there with the camera I'll post some good clean pics for you. Wolfy888
Razgriz, I thank you for the excellent links; I believe that these are the mods I'll be using. RysiuM, a question: Will 30A ESC's heat up less than the 25A's under the single battery scenario? I already have a 20c 11.1v 2200mah 3s lipo, and the Thunder smart charger, so I don't want to spend any more for that. I also have a 14.8v 2200mah 4sip lipo; what motor and ESC combo would you recommend? My stock fan units appear to be sound, as they run up to 21,600 RPM on the stock Nicad with no vibration anywhere. Did I get lucky and get good fan units? I've planned out the Gatling gun cooling duct idea, as it's a GREAT one; you can exhaust the hot air through the internal fuse vent on top between the engine nacelles, (more on the construction of this later) and a 3/4" diameter hole at the APU exhaust located under the left engine nacelle. I forgot who suggested that, but thank you. Also, everyone needs to LOOK at their Pics of the real airframe; the ventral fins at the junction of the wing root/fuse are missing, and they are critical to the yaw stability of the real A-10. I made them out of 1/8 balsa. I believe your strafing runs will appear smoother with them, as there's no yaw control on this plane (yet). I had the pleasure of working on the A-10's assigned to the Myrtle Beach AFB back in the early 80's, so the airplane's details and STC's are kinda ingrained in me; I know every inch of the airframe. Also thanks to the gent that posted the original Technical orders for the "Lizard" camoflage paint scheme; I've lost my copies over the years. My job was actually corrosion control, so really what I did was strip, sand and paint 72 airframes. We in MB have tail # 097 at Warbird park, so as soon as I can get down there with the camera I'll post some good clean pics for you. Wolfy888
06-27-2009, 11:07 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Sorry about the repeat; I tried to post 5 times while on a business trip, got cut off each time, and forgot where we were. Anyway, if you cut off the 4" long "box" between the engine nacelles, cut out the opening in the top of the fuselage and build a three-sided box (same size) out of 1/32 balsa (front and rear ends open) and glue it in place of the original foam block then Bournelli's effect says that the vent will extract approximately 4x the combined area of the front and rear openings. Add to that the area of the APU opening and it's more than 6x the area of a 5/8 intake at the gun, making for more than adequate airflow. I think that should keep things chilly in the electronics compartment. Make sense? Wolfy
06-28-2009, 12:24 AM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
I'm not sure what are you asking about with 25A and 30A ESC. There are two major sources of heat in BL ESC.
First is BEC. Most of ESC have simple low voltage drop regulator. What means whatever voltage drop is on the regulator times current at 5V is converted to heat. Depends on the size and brand of ESC, usuallt typical BEC can run 1.5A (this is king of high unless there are cople regulators connected together). The rule is, the highev the voltage supplied from the battery, the mode heat is going out. Like at 1A with 2sLipo BEC will need to loose a bit over 2W, with 3sLiPo it is 6W, and it is getting hot. Most of ESC with simple BEC don't like 4sLiPo and additional 3W is not making them happy.
The other source of heat is from high current MOSFet-s when they switch. Most of FETs used in ESC have very low voltage drop so even with the high current running through them, they will not get to hot from that. The switching is the separate issue. If they are not rated well, high rpm (high switching) might make them hot even without significant load. And additional is the timing when one goes off while the other goes on. With wrong timing it will get hot. But all depends on the program logic, and circuit design.
Now having said that, under the same load (let's say 20A) ESC 25A should not run significantly hotter that 30A. Unless the one brand is "screw-up type".
As for the battery I would say stick with your 3s - you don't need to fly WOT all the time - not this plane 4s might be overkill and also I'm not sure if your ESC has BEC that can run from 4s.
First is BEC. Most of ESC have simple low voltage drop regulator. What means whatever voltage drop is on the regulator times current at 5V is converted to heat. Depends on the size and brand of ESC, usuallt typical BEC can run 1.5A (this is king of high unless there are cople regulators connected together). The rule is, the highev the voltage supplied from the battery, the mode heat is going out. Like at 1A with 2sLipo BEC will need to loose a bit over 2W, with 3sLiPo it is 6W, and it is getting hot. Most of ESC with simple BEC don't like 4sLiPo and additional 3W is not making them happy.
The other source of heat is from high current MOSFet-s when they switch. Most of FETs used in ESC have very low voltage drop so even with the high current running through them, they will not get to hot from that. The switching is the separate issue. If they are not rated well, high rpm (high switching) might make them hot even without significant load. And additional is the timing when one goes off while the other goes on. With wrong timing it will get hot. But all depends on the program logic, and circuit design.
Now having said that, under the same load (let's say 20A) ESC 25A should not run significantly hotter that 30A. Unless the one brand is "screw-up type"
.As for the battery I would say stick with your 3s - you don't need to fly WOT all the time - not this plane
4s might be overkill and also I'm not sure if your ESC has BEC that can run from 4s.
06-28-2009, 05:31 PM
#745
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
question
If i remove the empellers from the orginalguanli A!0, can i then remove the engines turn them around and mount them backwards to take rear driven propellors?
will they mount properly from the rear?
If i remove the empellers from the orginalguanli A!0, can i then remove the engines turn them around and mount them backwards to take rear driven propellors?
will they mount properly from the rear?
06-28-2009, 09:29 PM
#746
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
O.K., you win. I think it's going to RIP with 4400's. My 30-yr-old pattern plane with an ST. 60 runs around 135 mph level flight, so this foamie isn't going to scare me. Just wanted to try EDF 'cause my eight year old is getting interested in r/c and this (even at $250) is cheap flight. He's already an accomplished pilot, so he wants jets.Wolfy
07-03-2009, 07:37 PM
#747
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Hello, I am a total newbie to RC flying and I was looking for a little help. I read these post after I bought the A-10 Warthog from NitroPlanes but it will be a good experiment for bigger and better things. I wanted to get a little longer flight times by switching batteries. Can I put an 11.1 volt 1500mAh li-po battery in this plane with the factory ESC and fans? And if I can without blowing it up, can I just solder the correct plug onto the li-po battery? And lastly, for now, I assume I have to have a li-po charger as opposed to a wall plug to charge it. Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
Thanks, TJ
Thanks, TJ
07-03-2009, 09:38 PM
#748
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Welcome to the hobby!
Here are some comments from my experience with the A-10:
1. This is not a beginner's plane, even if you make the changes needed to get it to fly. I would strongly suggest you start with something much easier to fly and less destructible.
2. You don't need to worry about longer flight times. This plane WILL NOT fly adequately with the stock ESC and fans, no matter what battery you put in it. I tried mine once with 11.1V LiPOs and was barely able to get it around the pattern without crashing, and I am an experienced RC pilot. I did not even attempt to fly it again until I made the change to brushless motors and GWS fans.
3. You do need a charger specific for LiPOs if you are going to use that battery technology. Putting a LiPO on a charger intended for NiCad or NiHM batteries will likely result in a fire. Don't even think about it.
If you want a ready to fly airplane that really works, get the Park Zone T-28. But even with that I would suggest you get an experienced pilot to help you learn unless you want to do a lot of repair work.
I'm sure you will enjoy RC flying, but you can greatly reduce the frustration level if you get into it in the right way.
Best of luck.
Here are some comments from my experience with the A-10:
1. This is not a beginner's plane, even if you make the changes needed to get it to fly. I would strongly suggest you start with something much easier to fly and less destructible.
2. You don't need to worry about longer flight times. This plane WILL NOT fly adequately with the stock ESC and fans, no matter what battery you put in it. I tried mine once with 11.1V LiPOs and was barely able to get it around the pattern without crashing, and I am an experienced RC pilot. I did not even attempt to fly it again until I made the change to brushless motors and GWS fans.
3. You do need a charger specific for LiPOs if you are going to use that battery technology. Putting a LiPO on a charger intended for NiCad or NiHM batteries will likely result in a fire. Don't even think about it.
If you want a ready to fly airplane that really works, get the Park Zone T-28. But even with that I would suggest you get an experienced pilot to help you learn unless you want to do a lot of repair work.
I'm sure you will enjoy RC flying, but you can greatly reduce the frustration level if you get into it in the right way.
Best of luck.
07-04-2009, 02:45 PM
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RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
Thanks for the information. Can you give some advice on the best place to buy planes, parts etc. I only have one small hobby shop nearby but there is a large one in the Fort Lauderdale area. I don't mind buying online other than not having someone with experience to help out. Again, thanks for the quick response.
TJ
TJ
07-04-2009, 03:52 PM
#750
RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars
ORIGINAL: TJ1276
Thanks for the information. Can you give some advice on the best place to buy planes, parts etc. I only have one small hobby shop nearby but there is a large one in the Fort Lauderdale area. I don't mind buying online other than not having someone with experience to help out. Again, thanks for the quick response.
TJ
Thanks for the information. Can you give some advice on the best place to buy planes, parts etc. I only have one small hobby shop nearby but there is a large one in the Fort Lauderdale area. I don't mind buying online other than not having someone with experience to help out. Again, thanks for the quick response.
TJ
Here a link for a great RC Trainer, the Wild Hawk! My 10 year old has been flying it for several weeks and she's just learning. She is doing great! You won't be disappointed. It sells for $79, ready to fly!
Here's the link:
http://www.nitroplanes.com/rtfwiha54el3.html
Good luck,
Tony
