blade 500 x settings
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Hi Guys just need a bit of help. I've just purchased a Blade 500 x. Need some opinions on transmitter settings. I've been flying a 130x, cpx, and a mcpxbl. Been doing pretty good. Hovering around and doing figure eights in the basement. Now that it is getting warm I want to go outside. The little helis get blown around a lot. Want to start flying the 500. Does anyone know if all the setting out of the box are good. Including the receiver. Seems kind of confusing. Looking for some advise. Remember I'm not doing any 3D right now just want to fly it around.
Thanks Nick
Thanks Nick
#2
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Hi Guys
just need a bit of help. I've just purchased a Blade 500 x. Need some opinions on transmitter settings. I've been flying a 130x, cpx, and a mcpxbl. Been doing pretty good. Hovering around and doing figure eights in the basement. Now that it is getting warm I want to go outside. The little helis get blown around a lot. Want to start flying the 500. Does anyone know if all the setting out of the box are good. Including the receiver. Seems kind of confusing. Looking for some advise. Remember I'm not doing any 3D right now just want to fly it around.
Thanks Nick
Cheers and good luck with your hobby activities.
Zor
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Nick,
I don't have experience with the settings in the manual - but most Blade helis are setup for 3D and have too much negative pitch for the non-3D flyer. If you aren't flying 3D - you will want to change your pitch settings. Otherwise you will have very little stick movement range for the pitch that you will be using. I would suggest you get a pitch gauge (digital ones are great) and set the stick from bottom, middle, top to: -3, +4, +10 - this will give you a better range for the type of flying you are doing. Don't forget to set the same to idle up so you don't get any unexpected pitch changes when switching it on. Its good practice to switch your heli into idle up after taking off all the time, as its will keep your headspeed the same regardless of pitch (use a flat line of say 80% for the throttle)...but check the manual for what they use.
You should start with the manual's DR/Expo settings and then make adjustments to how it feels in terms of sensitivity - if you find the cyclic too sensitive increase the expo...the important thing here is that you start to make your own adjustments based on how you fly and what stage you are at. The book cant do this - just use it as a starting point.
Hope this helps
Chris.
blinghobbies
I don't have experience with the settings in the manual - but most Blade helis are setup for 3D and have too much negative pitch for the non-3D flyer. If you aren't flying 3D - you will want to change your pitch settings. Otherwise you will have very little stick movement range for the pitch that you will be using. I would suggest you get a pitch gauge (digital ones are great) and set the stick from bottom, middle, top to: -3, +4, +10 - this will give you a better range for the type of flying you are doing. Don't forget to set the same to idle up so you don't get any unexpected pitch changes when switching it on. Its good practice to switch your heli into idle up after taking off all the time, as its will keep your headspeed the same regardless of pitch (use a flat line of say 80% for the throttle)...but check the manual for what they use.
You should start with the manual's DR/Expo settings and then make adjustments to how it feels in terms of sensitivity - if you find the cyclic too sensitive increase the expo...the important thing here is that you start to make your own adjustments based on how you fly and what stage you are at. The book cant do this - just use it as a starting point.
Hope this helps
Chris.
blinghobbies
#5
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Nick,
I don't have experience with the settings in the manual - but most Blade helis are setup for 3D and have too much negative pitch for the non-3D flyer. If you aren't flying 3D - you will want to change your pitch settings. Otherwise you will have very little stick movement range for the pitch that you will be using. I would suggest you get a pitch gauge (digital ones are great) and set the stick from bottom, middle, top to: -3, +4, +10 - this will give you a better range for the type of flying you are doing. Don't forget to set the same to idle up so you don't get any unexpected pitch changes when switching it on. Its good practice to switch your heli into idle up after taking off all the time, as its will keep your headspeed the same regardless of pitch (use a flat line of say 80% for the throttle)...but check the manual for what they use.
You should start with the manual's DR/Expo settings and then make adjustments to how it feels in terms of sensitivity - if you find the cyclic too sensitive increase the expo...the important thing here is that you start to make your own adjustments based on how you fly and what stage you are at. The book cant do this - just use it as a starting point.
Hope this helps
Chris.
blinghobbies
I don't have experience with the settings in the manual - but most Blade helis are setup for 3D and have too much negative pitch for the non-3D flyer. If you aren't flying 3D - you will want to change your pitch settings. Otherwise you will have very little stick movement range for the pitch that you will be using. I would suggest you get a pitch gauge (digital ones are great) and set the stick from bottom, middle, top to: -3, +4, +10 - this will give you a better range for the type of flying you are doing. Don't forget to set the same to idle up so you don't get any unexpected pitch changes when switching it on. Its good practice to switch your heli into idle up after taking off all the time, as its will keep your headspeed the same regardless of pitch (use a flat line of say 80% for the throttle)...but check the manual for what they use.
You should start with the manual's DR/Expo settings and then make adjustments to how it feels in terms of sensitivity - if you find the cyclic too sensitive increase the expo...the important thing here is that you start to make your own adjustments based on how you fly and what stage you are at. The book cant do this - just use it as a starting point.
Hope this helps
Chris.
blinghobbies
I am new to helis.
I always thought that all helis are always flying in 3D ( three dimensions ) north-souh, east-west and up and down.
I do not mean to change the accepted practice of the heli language but I am trying hard to undestand it and make sense of it.
For me, up to now, I have always seen (undestood) that the CG moves in a three dimensional world whatever the attitude of the machine is; right side up, in any trajectory, straight fly, curvature ( turns ), climb or descent, or upside down ( inverted ).
I see that I have lots to learn yet.
Thanks for the education.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 04-11-2014 at 03:54 AM.
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Thanks Chris, did what you said, settings are right on, I do have a pitch gauge which worked out prefect, been flying alot witht the 500x gonna be puting in a little more neggative pitch now ( more fun with the heli). Thanks again
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Hello folks,
I am new to helis.
I always thought that all helis are always flying in 3D ( three dimensions ) north-souh, east-west and up and down.
I do not mean to change the accepted practice of the heli language but I am trying hard to undestand it and make sense of it.
For me, up to now, I have always seen (undestood) that the CG moves in a three dimensional world whatever the attitude of the machine is; right side up, in any trajectory, straight fly, curvature ( turns ), climb or descent, or upside down ( inverted ).
I see that I have lots to learn yet.
Thanks for the education.
Zor
I am new to helis.
I always thought that all helis are always flying in 3D ( three dimensions ) north-souh, east-west and up and down.
I do not mean to change the accepted practice of the heli language but I am trying hard to undestand it and make sense of it.
For me, up to now, I have always seen (undestood) that the CG moves in a three dimensional world whatever the attitude of the machine is; right side up, in any trajectory, straight fly, curvature ( turns ), climb or descent, or upside down ( inverted ).
I see that I have lots to learn yet.
Thanks for the education.
Zor
Zor: you are actually correct as far as your physics class told you. But sometime ago, the term 3D was being used to describe maneuvers and combinations there-of that are not actually possible in a real helicopter (or aircraft). The concensus in another forum is that if you are maneuvering 3 or more functions on your control sticks, you might be performing a 3D maneuver.
Rafael
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A little intervetion here and I'm out, do not want to hi-jack the 500X settings thread....
Zor: you are actually correct as far as your physics class told you. But sometime ago, the term 3D was being used to describe maneuvers and combinations there-of that are not actually possible in a real helicopter (or aircraft). The concensus in another forum is that if you are maneuvering 3 or more functions on your control sticks, you might be performing a 3D maneuver.
Rafael
Zor: you are actually correct as far as your physics class told you. But sometime ago, the term 3D was being used to describe maneuvers and combinations there-of that are not actually possible in a real helicopter (or aircraft). The concensus in another forum is that if you are maneuvering 3 or more functions on your control sticks, you might be performing a 3D maneuver.
Rafael
Thanks Rafael. I now understand the implication of the 3D reference.
I am now out also.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 05-07-2014 at 07:10 PM. Reason: Changed refefrence to reference