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Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

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Old 02-17-2012, 12:05 PM
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Default Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

I never take this plane to the field because the DLE-30 needs to be flipped 25-30 times before it will fire. I read on RCU and also talked to the LHS guy about it. I was told the DLE-30s have a fuel draw issue caused by a problem in the reed block. Sure enough when I pulled it apart the reeds do not seat on the block very well. You can see the white area in the picture where the reed does not seal. It was the same on both sides. So I sanded it all down flat and smooth with some 500 grit paper and a sheet of glass. Once finished it was harder to suck air through the block than it was before. It will still pass air, but takes more effort.
So my questions...... Has anyone else had this issue and sanded the block down? Do you think this will really help any? I have not tried to run it as the weather will not permit. I should have really tested the fuel draw with the tank and engine on the bench before and after. But it's too late for that now. The engine runs fine once it's primmed and warmed up. I went so far as to replace all the fuel line,filter, and clunk before trying this (even though it's all new) with no improvement.

Thoughts please, and thanks, David
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:31 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

I have heard many mention it before. I looked at mine when i recieved the engine. I didnt use oil like you did to see it clearly but mine "appeared" to be fully seated. I have also heard some say that the metal strip to hold the reeds is just stamped and may have a dimple in it that needs to be flush also. i will look at mine tonight after work. Mine now will idle around 1,800 or slightly less
Old 02-17-2012, 12:48 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

So you know, the oil in the picture is just from running the engine. I did not oil it up for the photo. After I sanded it and reassembled I really thought it would pass more air since I cleaned off the oil. The opposite was true.

David
Old 02-17-2012, 07:22 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

please let us knew how it runs

Jim
Old 02-17-2012, 09:42 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Had the same problem on mine especially a side carb (now converted to rear)but the rear carb was hard to fire even until someone suggested that I fill hole in the choke plate (About 1/8"') with liquid weld.

They now start after choke on 4 flips ignition on 1 flip usually fires, choke off fires and runs after 1 or 2 flips, also I do not drain my fuel unless I am going to store for long periods,
Old 02-18-2012, 08:19 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

I thought about pluging the hole. Just wanted to try this first. Going to work in it today. If the rain stops, I'll try and fire it see what happends.

David
Old 02-18-2012, 08:35 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

What you did to the reed block can't hurt, also how much time do you have on your 30? When the ring seats you'll have better fuel draw. Hard to tell from your pic, but the reed mount metal strip looks like it has some flashing around the outside edge, I'd clean this up and radius the edge of the side against the reed.
Old 02-18-2012, 09:09 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

With a poorly closed choke plate, 25 - 30 flips before popping is not that unusual. Don't be so lazy. My DA-50 is the same way.
Old 02-18-2012, 10:01 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30


ORIGINAL: Ed

With a poorly closed choke plate, 25 - 30 flips before popping is not that unusual. Don't be so lazy. My DA-50 is the same way.
I use the lazy man's way: instead of flipping the prop so many times, I just rock the spinner up to compression (not through it) repeatedly, and let the engine pump the fuel as needed.


Old 02-18-2012, 11:30 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Soldering the hole and slightly richening the low-end needle did it for me. Since I bought the 30, I have also acquired a 55cc. It really draws fuel well!
Old 02-18-2012, 12:48 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30


ORIGINAL: RCVFR


ORIGINAL: Ed

With a poorly closed choke plate, 25 - 30 flips before popping is not that unusual. Don't be so lazy. My DA-50 is the same way.
I use the lazy man's way: instead of flipping the prop so many times, I just rock the spinner up to compression (not through it) repeatedly, and let the engine pump the fuel as needed.
[img][/img]
That lazy man's way is the easiest way I know to flood an engine.

Karol
Old 02-18-2012, 01:06 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30


ORIGINAL: karolh


ORIGINAL: RCVFR

I use the lazy man's way: instead of flipping the prop so many times, I just rock the spinner up to compression (not through it) repeatedly, and let the engine pump the fuel as needed.
[img][/img]
That lazy man's way is the easiest way I know to flood an engine.

Karol
ONLY if you're not paying attention to what you're doing.
I do the same process, BUT watch the fuel line to observe fuel creeping up the line.

Go to some of the big RC events like FG Huckfest, Tuscon Areobatic Shootout, Nall and you'll see many doing it just as RCVFR described it......only they don't watch the fuel line, they're THAT good at it!

Old 02-18-2012, 03:35 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

The 30cc only has about 10 tanks through it. I cant see the fuel line, so I am little hesitant to rock the prop back and forth, because of the flooding issue. After my little fix on the reed block, it seems like the engine has more compression. At first I thought it was my imagination. After messing with it a little more I really think it does. I know the compression has not increased, but I think the reeds seating better is forcing more air up through the transfer ports. At least it makes sense to me. The weather still has not givin me a chance to run it, but it sure feels harder to turn over by hand with the throttle wide open. Even it does not choke better, it should have a little more power.

Will post after I run ot for sure. David
Old 02-18-2012, 08:25 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

You have increased the base compression and that can usually be felt when you flip the prop.

My bet is you'll end up closing the hole in the choke plate. If you do I recommend redrilling a 1/16" hole back in the solder or whatever you close it with or you might find it pulls fuel too well! You still need to let a bit of air in to aid starting or you might go from not enough fuel to flooded in just a couple of flips.
Old 03-07-2012, 09:39 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Well i finally got it back together and fired it today. The reed block did nothing for the starting issue. I flipped it 46 times.(yes I counted) and it never barked. Since the canopy was off, I was able to stick my arm in through the back and cover the hole in the choke plate with my finger. It fired after 3 flipps doing this. So it sounds like it is going to come back apart and the hole in the chike plate sealed. I also noteced the choke plate does not completely close. Between that and the hole in must not be drawing enough fuel.
Not all news is bad though. I think sanding the block gave it more power. It's hard to draw definite conclusions since did not fly it today. But it really sounding a lot stronger. Also the idle trim was way off. I had the idle set at the center point of the digital trim on the TX (50%). I had to reset it at 25% because it was idleing fast enough to fly it. I really believe the engine is transfering the charge from the crankcase to the cylinder much better than stock. Hard to say how much power gain there will be at wide open. But it is more effecient at idle for sure.

David
Old 03-07-2012, 02:22 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

what is a "choke plate".
Old 03-07-2012, 03:53 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

The choke butterfly plate
Old 03-07-2012, 06:35 PM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

I put a frank bowman ring in my plane right off the bat and it never takes more than a few flips to start it. there was also no need to plug the hole on the choke plate.
it had alot more compression and break in time was very quick.
For 14 dollars it was well worth it.
Old 03-09-2012, 03:59 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Is it still possable to get DLE-30 Bowman Rings? I searched a little while back and just came up with dead links. Anybody know a source?
Old 03-09-2012, 04:04 AM
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Here is Frank's email
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style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">[email protected]</span></p>
Old 03-09-2012, 06:25 AM
  #21  
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

I'm sure that Frank has those rings and if he doesn't that he will make more for a popular engine like the DLE-30. I just placed an order for two rings (DLE &amp;JC) and they arrived very quickly and nicely packed.

Thumbs up for Bowman.

Paul
Old 03-09-2012, 06:37 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

email him directly.


[email protected]
Old 03-09-2012, 06:58 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: Sanded the reed block on my DLE-30

Thank's for the help guy's, sent Frank a e-mail.

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