FormerCA.

My Feedback: (8)

100 and 130

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

nice, 130cc would be perfect.

dadragon

would it not be worth having a three peice stab for transport,that has to be atleast 5FT.just a thought.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

I thought about that, but didnt want to add any weight. Besides, it will fit into my trailer. I am sure I will regret it. lol

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

I ended up using 3/8" square hardwood for the crutch. This will add strength thru the tail section and also give me a good anchor for the tailwheel assembly. I am also contemplating a removable tail (where the vert fin and horizontal stab can be removed as one piece easily). The hardwood rails would give me an easier path to to this. I also ended up using aircraft ply (not lite ply for the two main wing saddles. Since the hardwood block for the wing mounting bolts will be glued between these saddles, I thought it a good idea to use aircraft ply.

dadragon

I did a 3 peice stab on my 150" AD-1 Skyraider with all the servos in the fuse,no extra weight at all.I kinda borrowed some of Phil and barry's Skyraider builds for the stab and works out pretty clean,a lil extra time but thats what building is all about.looks good so far keep it up. Geo.

MaverickRussia

<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: left; ">Sorry that climb , just Stuka Ju-87b2</span><div><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: left; ">
</span></div><div>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiSlq...p;feature=plcp</div>

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I dont do anything the easy way it seems. I am playing with the idea of a removable tail. I had already built the stab (a 3 piece stab would have been the way to go), and it isnt too late, but I would have to rebuild quite a bit. I am getting worried about too much wt in the tail, but I added a lot of lead on my 101" above the tail wheel. The stuka looks like it would be tail heavy, but not many people notice how for forward the nose goes. The engine is very far in front of the wing spar.

So here is where I am with it, after him-hawing for a several weeks.

TomCrump

I would pay attention to tail weight. My 100" Ziroli took 2.25 pounds of nose weight.

dadragon

Tom;I did the Ziroli 100 and I went with the Quadra 75 mag engine just for more weight,did not need more weight,most all warbirds need nose weight,I like the mag engines over electronic igns just for that purpose. PA;I'd stick with the 3 peice stab and 3 peice wing is enough assembly at the feild,just a thought.Geo.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Actually I am feeling a little better now about weight. My 101" stuka had a Brison 4.2 in it and that weighs 5.5lbs. The twin engines I am finding range from 10-12lbs. So the plane is 1.5 times larger, the cc is 2x larger, and the engine weight is 2.25 (average) heavier. Again, I added a full pound of lead above the tailwheel on my other stuka. Just from those numbers. I dont think I will be adding much nose weight.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Well, one good thing about the in-laws visiting for the holidays is I go to my work room and get some building done.

Ed

Now suscribed, I also fly the 101" Ziroli Stuka. Mine weighs 28 lbs, is that overly heavy ? []

Ed

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

28lbs. That's pretty good. Mine was 28, after I had to add that pound of lead above the tailwheel. Most I have seen are around 31-33lbs. Since I am scaling everything up by 1.5, I am really hoping to get this plane under 50lbs. I am putting in the pull-pull system for the tailwheel/rudder now.

I am still undecided about how best to do the 3 piece wing. I have heard of builders just having a metal strap and bolt in the top and bottom of the wing to join the spars. It is just a steel strap on the top and bottom. I originally planned on machining an interlocking 1/4" thick piece of aircraft grade aluminum to sit between the top and bottom spar, and sandwich hvy ply on each side and bolt thru. I didnt think I would need to run it more than 3/4 of a bay (outside panel and also a bay into the center section). But a steel strap would save a lot of weight. I really dont like wing tubes. I know people who have done the wing tubes on stukas, but I personally just dont like them when there is a lot of dihidral. You have to beef up so many ribs with hardwood, the weight adds up. A small steel strap would be perfect if it is a proven technique.

Ed

Pat, pause the video early during assembly, and check out the box spars that this man uses. It may be of some help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1FDxARE52g

Ed

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ed. I may use that, but if I do, it will be at the lower part of the gull. I want the plane to stay on the gear when I pull the wings off.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I have the tailwheel assembly and the pull-pull worked out and done. Mounted the servo and it works great. I also have the sliding canopy setup done. It makes it so much easier having my 101" stuka to look at.

I am about to start on the cockpit and canopy. The cockpit is always my favorite part. I like putting a lot of detail in it.

Has anyone had any experience making a canopy from metal? I have a brand new canopy for my 101" and it is such a simple canopy I am finding it very easy to just measure off it and mult by 1.5x. I just dont know what to make it out of. If I do brass, it will be heavy, I like the idea of aluminum because it would be light and I can heat/bend it or press it into shapes. I just dont know how to permanantly "weld" small gauge al. I once saw some stuff a guy was selling, it was liquid and he was welding al cans into differnet shapes with it. I could also do a thin gauge steel, it could be formed, but I wouldnt be able to heat bend it like I can al.

All I have is a small wire feed welder. It works great for 1/8" and 1/4" stuff, but not this small. Any ideas would be appreciated.

WacoNut

How about forming your parts and making rivets from aluminum and rivet it together.
It should be as simple as getting some 1/16" aluminum rod and cutting lenghth just longer then the thickness of the parts you are riveting together and using a flat punch mushroom the ends down flat. Done in a scale location you would never notice.

I have done this with brass rod thru aliminum tubing to secure strut ends and it worked great.
Later!!
Anthony

dadragon

I have used rolled alum roof flashing for alot of detailed Items on my warbirds like canopy frames,cowl doors and hatches.wing leading edges,dashes,seats.I found a product called Metal weld that is a 2 part epoxy that works really well on that kind of stuff and the rivets also works well too.Systems Three(metal weld).

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks,
I may try that. Especially if I can run a piece behind the mated parts to stiffen/strengthen them.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

Well,
I have the sliding canopy all rigged and ready to go. Just need to get the canopy built. At least now I can start sheeting the fuse.

Ed

You're moving real fast Pat. What are you going to do for landing gear, and spats ?

Ed

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

I am going to make the landing gear out of 1/4" bent wire (or next size up), weld a door hinge at the bottom, and put a couple large springs on the bottom. If you imagine your ankle, your toes would be where the wheel will be attached, and there will be a "hook" the sticks out the back of your heel. I will run a couple large springs up the wires and attach them where the back of your calf or back of knee is. So when the tire is pushed up (pull your toes up), it stretches the springs. It is the lightest and strongest way I know how. I dont like the idea of putting a block on to a spar and running an oleo strut out of it because all the force is on one rib. If I use bent wire, I will bend it at 90" at the top where it meets the bottom of the ribs and run it across 3 or 4 ribs, spreading out the force.

If the spring doesn't work well when I start to build it, I may add a couple oleo struts on each side of ea tire.

The other stuff I will make out of wood and get fiberglass parts made.

pahtreek

My Feedback: (1)

They say a picture is worth 1000 words.... it's worth 10,000 of my words....

Ed

Very clever, are you gonna make your own fiberglass spats, and cowl ?