ProE

left hand side of car, between fuel tank and drive belt. Below CF plate

Saboteur10573

I was thinking of going with the 05 hara, but I dislike the availability for the parts and the price. I'm sticking with my first gen R40 kit with minimal upgrades and make my way around the track quite well. I have the oneway now and 4 bevel gear diff to try...engine will be in very soon.

ProE

here is a photo of where it goes

ProE

All the parts for hara edition are available online at towerhobbies(80%) and the rest is available at horizonhobby.com. I havent found a part for this kit that is not available online.

Come on, just get one.

D-Nicest

Sab the radiotray and chassis are put out buy team orion.

D-Nicest

Hurry up and get out to the track

Saboteur10573

Yeah I'mma try to. I'm in the process of moving slowly, but surely to Stratford, CT. I still need to get more parts for my 8th onroad, more tires and setup system for the R40, bodies, digi servo, and then hmm..not sure what else, but gotta pay memberships and transponder. Right now I got more important stuff to spend $$ on and I basically work most of the sundays. I'll still run this R40 for the moment.

Burntt32

My Feedback: (1)

ah, figured out my steering binding issue... the servo horn on my steering servo is the one that came with my JR servoes. it was flexing everytime i turned it. so it caused the ball cup to get stuck underneath the upper deck. any one know what kinda servo horn fits on the JR ones cuz the ones that came with the r40 dont. thanks.

Saboteur10573

The R40 comes with several horns to fit different servos. Otherwise just get a new servo horn.

D- Just got my oneway and 4gear diff in. car is rollin a lot much smoother than b4 and I can't wait to test it.

D-Nicest

Sounds good, but it's pretty much impossible to be running two classes at the same time, you should take a break from one an focus on the other. Any expert will tell you that. [:-]

Saboteur10573

I'm used to switching from class to class. Setting up the cars to my liking really doesn't take long either. I drove the 8th one day and swapped to the R40 in seconds running at bpt track. I've had mainly more experience with sedan, but 8th I've mastered in no time. I have enough $$ to support both cars and will probably start one class first then the next. I'd like to do 8th probably since my friend is dying to try my setup that has me glued to the track. Then maybe I'll turn to the R40.

SAVAGEJIM

As far as the R40 Hara Ed, How does it handle on the track? What are the benefits of the Hara Ed carbon radio deck and the Hara Ed fuel tank? With all of the available upgrades (lightened chassis, alum shocks, carbon towers, one way diff, etc.), can't one modify a stock R40 into a car that is just as good as the Hara Ed?

Saboteur10573

See the 05 Hara as completely different upper deck and chassis. It also comes with a lower gear ratio for the big tracks. For the most part I'm running a slightly upgraded original R40 with no issue. It comes down to preference and setup. Though yes if you compare price of a NIB o1st gen R40 and upgradt to the new Hara it's definately not worth it. Shop around for an original R40 with gear for cheap or one of the 04 or 05 kits.

LiL_D

hey d-nicest.... i jast wana know, wat kind of wheel do u use in ur r40? coz i saw ur pic, the color of ur wheel is yelloe green.. i like that,. plz.. tell me wat kind? wats the name? plzzzz

Saboteur10573

Those are Ellegis. ATS makes the same style rim with red or yellow/green rims. www.brooklynhobbies.com has them for real cheap.

D-Nicest

Former ellegi, now jaco makes the exact same ones but with their own rubber, ats are similar but a little bit cheaper looking, and there foam does not have the quality that jaco has. Reason why is because they're inconsistent, one run they feel good then the next they're not. Sab whats up with the racing scene for you, makes me wonder if your ever going to be out there.

LiL_D

thank you very much guys....

LiL_D

witch is better guys,. ellegi tire or jaco tire?

D-Nicest

Ellegi is better but they are not made anymore, thats why jaco makes the saame rim with their own rubber.

Saboteur10573

D- I'm in Stratford, CT. For now I'm trying to establish living in the new place and working of stuff for my mom. I've also have to balance my budget and currently find a new job since traveling to my old town for the month will cost me $450+ ..just for gas. My current job doesn't pay for that either so I'll find something local. I'll definately be down for some races or practice depending on this new job's hours. I hope I get weekends off.

D-Nicest

Sounds like you got a lot of stuff going on. As of now for me, I'm trying to figure out if someone stole my R40 from my job or if it is hidden somewhere. [:@] but I'm pissed off, because the only way it would have gotten stolen is by someone putting it on the counter leaving there just for someone to come and take it without notice. I guy gave me 200 dollars down for that thing, I ahve to find it. Unless he took it.[][>:][:@]

Saboteur10573

Damn that sucks man. When you find the guy who stole if, if he did, beat him with the LW chassis.

SAVAGEJIM

Thanks for the great advice. I have an R40 that I have moderately upgraded with upgrades and aftermarket stuff. I spend more time bashing it by practicing with it up and down our street than racing so I've never bought the lightweight gunmetal chassis. But as far as making the car lighter, what is the best way to do so? The R40 is a very heavy on road racer and it could shed a few grams to make it equivalent in weight to a Mugen MTX-4 or a Serpent, or Kyosho, etc.

rushdude

My Feedback: (1)

One of the best ways to make it lighter is to use a 5cell AAA receiver hump pack. The hara chassis makes it lighter, the lw 2 speed and shafts also make a good difference. If you switch to a hara and get the lw parts it will put you at the roar limit of 1725 grams for racing.

WillisMcGuiness

Hey I finished building my r40 hara (thanks to you guys helping me) but i have a problem withe the centax clutch.[:@] When i screw in the clutch screw to hold the bell on, the tighter i go the harder it is to turn the clutch bell (and not the flywheel)... i dont know what the problem is. What are your guy's set ups for the clutch.[:-] For example, like "I have ball bearing "B029" before the clutch bell and 3 spacers after the clutch bell..." sumpin like that
thanks