CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Fuse sides, I'm omitting D2, it is the try for the ECU, instead I will be adding there a 16 oz. Nelgine bottle to increase flight time up to 10 minutes + 2 go arounds, the UAT is going to placed forward from the 16 oz tank.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Fuse sides almost done.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

More fuse work.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

More done today, running out of mid CA glue

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

The building had to stop early today, here is the reason why.

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

Now You Are Talking. You are due a couple of hours "OFF" - Smiling. Chic

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

I know it is very off topic but it was getting a little too repetitive, build, build, build, post, post, post.

Ok here is another picture of the fuse.

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

I trimed mine sunday. Not a lot to trim, it fly straight. .. I know it's hard to believe, but to fit my particular taste I'll have to move the CG a bit backward by reducing the weight of the batteries

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

No, not at all, we all do that, jets fly better with a forward CG.

What I like to know is if there are any pitch changes when accelerating from half throttle to full.

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

Well, in my case I noticed a slight trend to pitch down ( but very slight ) using the stock turbine " tilting" wood part. But my opinion is that the effect will vary according to your cg position and engine selection and I would suggest to make the first flight using the stock configuration and fine tune it according to your particular airplane config and your own tastes

aft cg in addition to make your plane more responsive, save some fuel also ) ( either if you don't modify the airplane weight).


Because a lot of people read this thread and they maybe don't know why "aft cg save fuel", I give the short explanation for those who want to know.
The stab produce a NEGATIVE lift to counteract the effect of the distance betwwen the cg and the wing "lift centrum". If you move the cg more backward, the distance is less, meaning the negative lift generated by the stab to counteract the effect is less. Then the wing have to produce less lift ( the total lift the wing has to produce is the sum of the weight and the negative lift of the stab). If the wing has to produce less lift , it produce less drag. Meaning you save fuel........
I admit that in the case of rc jet , the difference is very small, but in airliners that's something we take care off to reduce trip fuel

because of my bad knowledge of english you maybe don't understand my short explanation, in that case just type " aft cg save fuel" on google and you will have the explanation in your mother langage

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Thank you for trying, its all good, I understand, I think, got it, CG forward/bad. CG aft/good, got it.

Let us know if the change of CG helps with the slight down pitching.

Tks,

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

My decision to move the cg a bit backward is definitly NOT a attempt to correct the pitch changes induced by turbine trust management. If I move the CG a bit backward , it's to have a more responsive airplane. The effect of moving the CG backward will make the airplane more sensitive to pitch change induced by turbine ( if there is one) in my opinion

When you decide to move a CG backward, be carrefull and proceed with several step by step tuning, because this change the airplane behaviours

So my suggestion to tune your R54 to your particular taste is to proceed like that

1) set the turbine tilt to stock position and the cg in the middle of the cg margin for the first flights
2) tune your CG to make the airplane matching your particular taste and skills ( I suggest to remain in front of the aft cg limit)
3) finaly make the turbine tilt correction if required

This is only my opinion and maybe Bruce should knock a the door to give his opinion on the subject

I'll let you know the correction I will apply on the turbine tilt if I make one. The nose down effect I felt was so small that it need to be confirmed after some other flights before I decide to put one or two washers to correct it

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

Here is a view of my finished inside setup. In order to remain in the "adfordableé" philosophy of the design I solved my need of 10 chanels ( i like to have all the elements on a separate channel) by making a twin receiver setup instead of serial bus or powerbox system.
The "front receiver is in charge of everithing except the gear stuffs. The second receiver is in charge of gear extension control, brake and steering.

I made a effort to separate gear and brake power supply from the main power suply ( just in case) and as you can see there is a connection to place a second lipo in parallel with the ecu lipo during start.
each receiver is fit inside a homemade 3D printed receiver case.
the two wood plate in the front are there to hold batteries firmly in place. Because I turned without lead I need to be able to move my batteries easily to modify cg, those two bolted wood parts hold them in place
I consider this setup reliable, but Of course I have what I consider to be a weak point. Either the ecu and pump "floor" is held in place with six screws, a steering servo issue would be extremely anoying and would require to disconect nearly everithing.....

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

After a good day of flying is time to go back to the building board.

It is really nice around here now, 80's and light winds for the next few days, the only thing that is bothering me are the allergies

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

same here in belgium, hot temperature, and too much pollen in the air. Yesterday I let my car on a parking outside for 4 hours and when I came back it was literaly green from pollen dust. I suffer asthma and it's really not a good period for me

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Fuse bulkhead and stab base are on, it assembled very square and straight on its own, nice!

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

I guess you have a precise idea of your building sequence, but maybe you forgot to drill your nose gear plate

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Here's how Bruce responded to my CG question a while back. I started at 6.25" and then moved it to 6.5". Based on Brice's advise I didn't try going further back. It flies and lands fine just fine at that setting, about 75 flights so far.

Joe

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

thanks a lot for sharing that. I see that my idea of moving the cg backward a bit won't have a lot effect on the plane agility

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Good eye but look again once I get the retract I will drill the holes and it will get epoxied on.

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

I will share what hapened to me with this particular building. I builded my first wing with the booklet next to me and made a good wing. For the scond wing I decided to go a bit faster. I placed the parts in the assembly order on a table and jumped in the building leaving the booklet in a corner of the shop. I was extremely proud of this second wing panel looking even better than the first one. When I cleaned the aera I found laying under the parts table............ The balsa wing dowel block glued to his hardwood partial rib. AAAAAAARGGGGGGGhhhhhhh
A delicate surgery on the wing sheeting has been mandatory to place it.........

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

I'm glad you got it fix, that's the beauty of building a balsa wood airplane, you can fix, change, add, modified all you want.

My build is not perfect, I've made about 4 mistakes so far, nothing critical and they got fix, I keep saying, the next Reaction build is going to be flawless.

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

there is only one kind of people that never make mistakes. The people that doesn't do aything

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Moving forward with the engine mount, used 30 min epoxy here.