MD6

The Slash motor will not fit unless you modify the chassis, and even then it may not fit. It has a built in fan which extends the can. I have had good luck with my Slash motor. I bought my Slash last January and I am still running the same motor. I know drivers that are running theirs for a long time, but I know other drivers who have had bad luck.

cydog510

tried pliers, no go, dremel idea is briliant! thanks!

jaysauce

I narrowed my battery selection down to 3 choices:

1x Integy intellect 7.2v 5000mah Stick
QTY 1 - <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXXHE0&amp;P=7" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXXHE0&amp;P=7
</a>

1x Integy intellect 7.2v 5000mah Side by Side
QTY 1 - <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&amp;I=LXXHE1&amp;P=7" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXXHE1&amp;P=7

</a>
2x Reedy AssociatedWolfpack 7.2v 3600mah Stick
QTY 2 - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXTJH4&amp;P=C


Iam running a trinity cobalt 27t, mc230cr esc. Iwill be using this for bashing/drifiting in parking lots.Looking for long run times. Already have a prophet plus lcd charger.

CarlMX5

My Feedback: (2)

2 3600mAh's will last longer than the other 2 choices. Plus, if you fry one, you'll have a spare.

jaysauce

Cool..i just ordered 2x wolfpack 3600 and a r35 body from tower.Can't wait.....

freshert

Hi, I've got a stock tt-01d XB and it understeers turning left, and oversteers turning right. How can I fix this?  I've only locked the back differential with blu-tac, could this be the cause? Didn't notice this problem before.

SIRCC

check the steering control on your radio.

MD6

I agree with SIRC. Some radios have a travel adjustment rights and left. Also, make sure that your servo saver is really centered,

SIRCC

Have you guys seen the body for the TT-01.

freshert

I have already used the steering trim to make the car drive straight. It's slightly to the right.
"Also, make sure that your servo saver is really centered,"
Could you explain this in more detail please? I'm new to RC sorry <br type="_moz"/>

SIRCC

what radio do you have?

MD6

Take the servo saver off, turn the car on and put the steering trim in the center. Then reattach the servo saver and that should put in almost the center. Try your car after that and see if it helps.

xc7

my TT01ED just arrived! woot, another project to start today. motor/esc arrived 10 days ago so I am just waiting on my lipo packs to arrive probably this week.

Bok

Nice! What motor are you going to run? Be sure to post some pics

xc7

Thanks Bok, I listened to your opinion on the ED spec and I took recomendation from cydog510 and went with the EZRun 5.5T BL setup. I already bought a set of Jaco foams for when I try it on carpet in a few weeks. I'll put up pics when she's done and my new body shows up.

Still not sure if I require a different size pinion with this motor combo though ??

freshert

I have the ttu-03 tx. I'll try centering the servo saver tommorow. Thanks for the help guys!

Bok

I think you should leave the stock gearing as it is, since it is already geared down as low as possible [8D] Please let us know how it runs with the EZRun 5.5, I am thinking about getting one for my TT01 but I'm not sure whether I want the 5.5, 8.5 or the 13.5

freshert

Centered the servo today. Much less understeer now makes drifting easier. The servo doesn't squeak as much as before when turning left to full lock as well. Thanks guys.

nbla

Aaah, just ordered my second TT-01 today
I'm still waiting for the spare part for my old one too from Hong Kong

Weeee!

cydog510

just wanna put this out there: i would't suggest using the aluminium front arms, if you are running a fast motor. te reason is that if you're going fast, when you hit something, it is gonna cause damage. the aluminium arms have no give and will either snap or bend, pricey to replace, just get a $5 parts bag. just a thought.

i just switched over to a new bathtub chassis because crashed and broke the area that holds the steering assembly.i decided to try and mount all the electronics(weight) lower, managed to tuck it all below the carbon stiffener plate, and my oh my does it make a difference! the lower center of gravity is pretty crucial to handling, i suppose everyone on this tip, but thought i would mention it.

5.5t ezrun gearing.i have experimented with all pinion/spur combos, 25/55 is FAST and if you set the punch at the highest, your good, BUT, even with a tornado fan(best fan on the market in my opinion) over the moto and one on the esc, it overheated quickly, but was it ever fast! 19/61 seems like the motor is being held back, so my conclusion is 23 or 22/58 is the best allround gearing for this moto/chassis combo.

my fave car in the world is the datsun 510, and the only way to obtain this in RC world was either the hpi club racer or the genetic by abc hobby.i just got this(pictured below), i don't really like the chassis, and just figured for a fraction of the price i could just buy the tt01 M-chassis conversion kit and a 510 body!, so i am selling it, oh well all good.

cydog510

here's some pics. i also just got a set of 4+ offset hexes. they bring the wheels out , looks nice!
i keep breaking diff covers/uprights on the front end. thinkin bout the aluminium, but i figure i'll break em regardless, another B parts bag enroute!

Bok

The B parts are the suspension arms, you need the A parts Go for the Type-E A parts, or the TGS A parts if you can. They use a much stronger material. Or, you can get bumper mounted body posts. That way the shock tower won't be stressed when you crash

cydog510

yea, i meant A parts, the problem with the E bag is you only get one... odd coupling of parts on that tree. i'll just buy another A tree and continue to replace em. i have a carbon stiffener, but i suspect it is not helping, perhaps making it worse.... bok, get the ezrun 5.5t it is bonkers! how would i go about getting bumper mounted posts? also the TGS parts, i found one on ebay, what does TGS stand for and what is the diff?
thanks.

jaysauce

Ijust broke my stock plastic front right knuckle/upright and was wondering which is a better design? Any suggestions from those of you who have either of these would be great so I know what I should buy...

3Racing
cgi.ebay.com/2Pcs-Aluminum-Front-Knuckle-Arms-Set-Tamiya-TT-01-TT01_W0QQitemZ350262967708QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio _Control_Parts_Accessories

GPM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALUMINUM-FRONT-U...item19b72439fd


In the meantime I think im gonna stop by a local plastic dealer and buy some industrial strength plastic epoxy...have any of you ever tried this?

THANKS!!!!!!

cydog510

gluing it might work for a few minutes, but anytime i have tried to do it it failed. i would go for the GPM, as they will work with the stock wheel axle and dog bone, i think the 3racing need universals to work. i have the GPM on mine, see pics above, and they work REALLY well, strong. i was breakin knuckles all the time. my 2 cents.