timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

got the nose gear steering servo in had to use a reverse y harness. picks of the seats. no belts yet im still working on them anfd the pilots yoke isnt in i have to add the buttons for firing the nose guns. i talked to the owner of flite metal and he said rosie the riverter product will make straight perfect rivits

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

"some of the scale guys on rcsb are making fun of this arf. I put their attention to this thread and they are not so nasty anymore. LETS GET THESE AS SCALE AS POSSIBLE! "

Timothy,

That's twice I've seen you said people are making fun of this arf in that forum. Please tell me where that thread is as I've found
only one on the Top Flight forum that says good things about this arf. I have one of these planes and I belong to both sites and
its a nice arf.

Chuck

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

its on a rcsb forum on scratch building and they were saying how much better the ziroli and or wing is. I have this plane and love it! i couldnt build it with plug in wings for the price of the kit. Also maybe the mods deleted the worst of it. I also have the h-9 version and will make a solid nose J no detail . Nice covering job but nowhere as good as this.
there was a blurb on rc groups but that got deleted after i reported it. The big thing is people are saying the fuse is the wrong shape. Its not! The g-j were squared off to handle more guns and cannon. the b and c versions were rounder. It got me angry that people bash something and do not even realise this model is very accurate!

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

I'll look that thread up thanks. I was thinking of kitting a larger than ziroli's B25 and did some
extensive research along with a friend of mine. I can tell you there are obvious errors in both
the wing and ziroli designs. Both look nice and as with this bird can be made to look great.
Just depends on how far you wish to go.

Chuck

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

check out wingspans b-17 thats my next bird!

camdyson

Nice cockpit detail Tim - keep up the good work.

Alans, have you tried the wheels with the engines running - the vibration may be enough to "unstick them". If that works, maybe you're ok so long as engines keep running!

Cam

p.s. A man's sanctuary is his shed - you gotta get one!!! (or a "shop" as the Yanks like to say)

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

here is the rear turret area. i thinned the former to a scale depth again no structural problems. the white floor has the scale pit where the bombadier crawled through. The flash made pic too bright. Ill update pic tommorow. That floor will be removable to allow access to the nose wheel steering servo

FliteMetal

In general RCSB is simply that...scale builders. However, there is discussion of ARFs and rarely do I find a post where-in an ARF is outright bombasted...typically would occur relative to something mechanical about a design and not an overall appearance comment.

ARF's have their place, and growing in numbers with the quality of laser cutting and assembly utilized VS that in the past. With several B-25 ARF out there...its simplty too easy for anyone to snap an opinion about anything and it gets accepted as fact when in reality its typically either a higher than reasonable level of expectation or a statement from ignorance.

Truth is, a scale kit is rarely if ever true scale because of aerodynamic issues creating less than ideal flight with a scale this and that of the 1:1. While you read of someone bragging about true scale this and that...its not usual to find such...especially in commercial kits or plans. Outlines are about as close as one can get...then there's that fudging on the width of the stab or even vertical fin(s).

If the statement about RCSB were one intended to be less than complimentary of RCSB and its subscribers then a whole level of misunderstanding exists considering the majority of if not all the subscribers are subscribers to this forum as well. I'll leave that one alone and return to the B-25 discussion.

There are a lot of inconsistancies, not only between evolutionary steps of B-25s but within each step depending on assembly location and available components. As for precise knowledge of formers and their changes between versions of the plane...that is within an arena far above the "scale" found in competitive flying scale modeling as those comparing documentation to the model are no closer than around 3.2 meters with respect to a "kit".

I've found there are enough differences in comparing available examples of any 1:1 that force us to accept this as a norm and not an exception. It should "not" be a consideration if change is less than what can be decerned from 3.2 meters. Replicating the documentation even if the documentation is incorrect...is still correct if the doc happens to be signed off on or an acknowledged published source... For example: Squadron Signal Publishing Co.

So, in reflection I believe the current wave of B-25 ARFs do a good job considering the available plans contain a host of discrepencies within their pages as well... Ultimately the resolve is if it looks like documentation it has to be correct...to that fault.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

hi ed im the one who called you last night. did your daughter make her plane? ill order the product on wednesday wingspans b-17 has scale airfoils and due to its size it works great. Mike had a super product. rotating turrets and all. Glennis wheels check it out. wingspanmodels.com


thanks

tim

FliteMetal

Thanks for asking Tim:

Yes, we got her there in time, however the inbound flight was delayed two hours due to bad weather
Northwest of us. She got home to Dallas at about 12:30 last night.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

My daughter 1st lt kayte Jones and her husband sgt Brandon Jones are coming home on dec 24 for 10 days! im so excited. Brandon cant wait to see the b-25 by then ill have some rivets on her. They are stationed at Ft Polk La. shes an rn hes a paratrooper with the 1/509th bravo co. he just got promoted after pldc

mobyal

Tim --
God bless 'em both, and thank them. And you
Al Carr
USMC (a LONG time ago! LOL)

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Tim,

God Bless your daughter and son in law. I thank them for their service from the bottom of my heart.
God bless you and your wife too. My wife and I know the heartache and the worry when a loved one is deployed.

Bob USN vet (longer ago than I care to remember.)

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

THANKS GUYS want to have fun go to the crash section and click on goldberg eaglet with video and watch the kid fly a glow plane on the street right by the expensive houses. That kind of stuff drives me nuts

flyingchef

My Feedback: (93)

Little more work done on the B25, I just finished fiberglassing one side of the fuse and will be doing the other tomorrow. I closed the front wheel opening and will be making a quick mold for the nose wheel gear doors, seems that only a small section of the doors stays open when the gears are down.
Bruno

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

chief you are correct another scale nut! go for it.

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

I am having a little trouble with the cowls. I have OS 70 4 stroke engines mounted at 5". I can get the cowls mounted, but if I try to pu the dummy engine in, there is no way to get the cowl over the engine without making a very large hole in the side of the cowl for the engine. Can someone give me some advise as what to do? Also, what battery pacs are you guy running?

krproton

sgoen,

go back and take another look at the manual. I think it explains it pretty well...If you take the valve cover off the engine before installling the cowl (and put the valve cover back on the engine after installing the cowl), you won't have to cut such a large hole for the engine. Same goes for the replica engine--if you remove the drive washer (don't loose the woodruff key!) when installing the cowl and put the drive washer back on after installing the cowl, you can make the clearance hole in the replica engine smaller.

I haven't had to remove my cowls at all since I broke the engines in and started flying my B-25, so having to remove the valve covers and drive washer to remove the cowl isn't a problem for me. But if you prefer not to remove those parts for mounting the cowl, you'll just have to cut bigger holes.

Take a look at the photos on the box, in the manual and photos I've posted earlier in this thread. You can see how large/small you have to make the holes.

Hope this helps.

Tim

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks,
I will try doing that.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

well landing gear arrived! the front oleo and scissors are backwards. just loosten all the set screws and turn around and retighten. ive got the front gear mounted and the steering hooked up. now on to the mains . Great stuff. got the mains installed and they work fine. i went to the LHS for blind nuts and I lost one so when i found it I happily told my wife i found my blind nut she said well whose gonna help me look for my deaf d i c k?????? LOL

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

I notice a number of you have gone with larger diameter wheels 2.5 and 4" for a more scale appearance. Just wondering if there is any problem retracting them into the wheel wells ?? Thanks.

krproton

europatc74,

go back to the beginning of this whole thread and read my first two posts. They have much additional information that will help you.

Regarding your wheel question specifically, item #11 in the second (or was it third?) post adresses this...

11. If switching to Robart wheels, use a 2-3/4” nose wheel and 3-3/4” or 4” main wheels. (4” wheels are probably closer to scale).

I switched to Robart wheels because they look better than the foam ones that come with the kit. A nose wheel larger than 2-3/4" will be too big for the nose strut (if using Robart retracts) and main wheels larger than 4" will probably be too large and interfere with the hinges or doors on the main gear. I am assuming the wheels are already pretty close to scale, so I am not certain that simpy switching to larger wheels will be "more scale."

Hope this helps.

Tim

norm

Europact

You should go with 4 inch for the main. The Sullivan wheels are the best. For the noze wheel you should consider 2.75 and the only choice if you are on grass...The axle pin the noze gear rotate on is only 3/16th inch and will break off if there is too much stress added to it. The bigger the wheel and the less stress on that axle. If you plan to install breakes take the Robart 4 inch plastic scale wheels or better the 4 inch wheel 10 spoke al. brake hub. This plane needs a lot of grass runway to take off and lands well on grass. It will take off short on a paved runway but roll a long time landing so brakes may be necessary depending on your skills and the lenght of your runway.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

glennis are 100 % scale and cost 250 for the 3 thats cheap! some shots of the main gear and the retracted nose strut. the motors are big axis and the mounts are 1/4 ply hand made for the price of a piece of ply. exactly 5 inches of clearance! ill epoxy them on tonight so i can mount tommorow

norm

250$ that is real cheap for scale wheels...I'll stick to Robart or Sullivan, do not forget this is a 650$ plane!!! And it is not up for a scale contest.