Rudolph Hart

You may be right in the late sixties nz airforce we got offered original crated indians,harleys and 500cc velocette thumpers for pretty cheap money

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

When I was a teenager (1950's) my dad had the opportunity to purchase a couple of Corgi four-strokes that were used by the British during WWII. The handle bars folded down and back toward the seat and the seat was capable of being telescoped down to reduce the profile of the machine. They also had a centrifugal clutch and one speed. We were told they were used by paratroopers.

I think my father paid about $75 for both of them. My brother and I rode the crap out of them, riding in the NE Pennsylvania woods.

Bob

Edit; I found some info on the Corgi.

http://www.cybermotorcycle.com/euro/brands/corgi.htm

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Indian:

Rudolph Hart

Tonto?

spaceworm

I did not know it until now, but the Corgi was rebadged and marketed as the Papoose to which I referred earlier.

Regards,

Richard

Jimmy Hoffa

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I'm sure this has been addressed previously but this is a hugh thread.

What is the opinion of Cool Power 15% 4 stroke fuel? It's is a castor/synthetic blend with total oil content of 17%. Their website does not indicate the oil mix proportions, only total oil content. Several local flying buddies said that it will gunk up my valves. I know quite a few club member recommend castor but is this a good fuel?

My Saito .82 runs great on it and in a 4.5lb profile plane the power decrease verses 30% is not noticable. I also enjoy the much lower fuel consumption with the leaner needle setting. Plus the cost is $16 per gallon compared to $28.

Thanks,
Phillip

blw

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Phillip- Cool Power doesn't have any castor, and that's the problem with some Saito owners. I use Omega 15% which is a syn/castor blend. I also add a couple of ounces of castor for extra protection.

Both fuels will run about the same, but don't try and run lean with Cool Power. It won't give you any protection against the heat from lean conditions. Fuel with castor will.

Castor helps some against rust.

There is evidence that castor protects some of the internals like cam lobes from wear.

Jimmy Hoffa

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The label on the plastic jug states 15% 4 stroke castor/synthetic. It has a green dye in it.
I would think it must have some castor in it or that would be false labeling. I definately smell castor when it's running.

I believe that castor is good but I'm told it will gunk up the valves. Hopefully, a castor/synthetic blend designed for 4 stoke motors will be OK.

Anyone use the Cool Power that I'm referring to over a period of time?

Phillip

Jimmy Hoffa

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I found the following info on the Cool Power/Morgan Fuel website. Apparently 30% of the total 17% oil is castor.

"Why does Morganfuel use 30% castor and others use 20%?

In the past Lubricant blending was always a give and take of positive and negative features. This was before we discovered the synergistic properties of our CleanCastorâ„¢ and Ultra-Viscosityâ„¢ Synthetic lubricants. CleanCastorâ„¢ gives you the unique lubricating properties of castor without excessive buildup and carbon in combination with the detergency of our Ultra-Viscosityâ„¢ Synthetic Base stock fluid we can use 30% of our castor without the mess and carbon associated with 20% of a standard castor oil. Which gives Omega the added lean run protection of 10% more castor.
CleanCastorâ„¢ has excellent wetting properties giving it a superb anti-scuffing advantage under high bearing loads. The polarity of our castor in combination with our specifically formulated additive package and high-viscosity base stock fluids will provide a perfect balance of performance and protection. All in all there is no reason to make compromise to either oil any longer. Omega is a perfect balance."

Phillip

mike early

Interesting...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I like Omega fuel and when I lived nearer their facility, that is all I used.

What is being talked about here is that the total oil in Omega is 17% but within this oil, the relationship of synthetic oil to castor oil is 70-30 whereas, for example, Wildcat is 80-20.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

My theory is to get the protection of castor but not gunk up the valves.

Phillip

spaceworm

I think regular 15% Cruel Power (blue dye) does not have any castor. I add 2-3 Oz castor or Klotz Techniplate (castor/syn) per gallon to it when I use it, but I prefer Wildcat. I have not used 15% Cool power 4 stroke (green dye).

Regards, Richard

w8ye

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Some of the Four Stroke Cool power has Castor oil as well as synthetic.

If the four stroke Cool Power has any castor oil, it will say so with a sticker.

JohnB96041

Anyone heard anything about PowerMaster fuel. I read somewhere that it was being manufactured again somewhere in Texas. I have always used PowerMaster 15% Nitro, 18% synthetic/caster oil.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

It does and the smell confirms the sticker is correct.

Here's a tip:

"A quick way to ruin a gallon of fuel is to drain your tank at the end of your flying day back into the fuel jug. What is happening is that your fuel is picking up moisture from the pressurized tank. The carburetor is sucking in humid air and after combustion the moisture laden air is entering into your tank via the tube from your muffler. When you return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug you are contaminating the rest of the fuel in the jug.

My recommendation is to run your tank dry at the end of the day, but whether you do that or not don't return the fuel from your tank to your fuel jug."

Phillip

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This is true but the original marketing organization is gone. It will take a little time to get it around everywhere again.

Best I can figure, the company that sells it now has actually made it for Powermaster for a few years?

http://www.powermasterfuels.com/

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I didn't know there were that many blends of Cool Power. Some has castor and some doesn't , so you have to look before buying.

They show all blends of Omega having castor.

Jimmy Hoffa

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I'll try it for a while and will report the results.

I'm surprised that all you castor users aren't getting gunked up valves.

Phillip

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've been running fuels containing some castor in four strokes for many years and have never had more than a slight accumulation on the exhaust valve stem. I've never cleaned one.

mike109

Ditto.

I have a small fleet of Saitos and other engines and have always used fuel with a small amount of castor (usually 5%) plus synthetic up to 20% total. I sometimes leave an engine sitting for several months and never have stuck valves or other problems.

A friend died earlier in the year. He had a huge collection of engines and planes which his wife sold off though she did keep a small Waco as a "pet". Almost all of his four strokes had stuck valves. He did not use any castor in his fuel.

FNQFLYER

Watr in fuel is always a problem especially in humid conditions (that can even occur in the snow (believe it or not).  When I worked in Malaysia we had moisture (water) problems in fuel both with m1:1 a/c and models.  If you left a bottle of fuel open to the air it acted like a sponge.  I once did a check into this effect and on a 90% humidity night in the hanger I increased the weight of a litr of model fuel by 5% in one hour just by leaving the lid off the bottle.

Not to fix this, put said contaminated bottle in the freezer overnight, the moisture (water) will freeze on the botom of the bottle, once this happens decant the rest and you have some serviceable fuel for those hack engines and if all else fails don't bother freezing use it as cleaning agent and then discard on top of the nearest weeds.

We did the freezing thing because in those days all our fuel (SIG and Byron) came from the USA.  We were not allowed to make our own fuel as some of the ingredients were "proscribed".
In these days of relative plenty I construct my own fuels according to need and expected usage (Gas, glo and Diesel) and I use mostly synthetic except for run in periods, and always dry / lean run the engine prior to putting it away.  If it is to be used in a short period of time I just put some Cool power or ATF down the carb if it is to go into storage I fill the crankcase with SAE 30 or similar after a lean run.  In all cases the oil is added while the engine is warm to hot to aid in the oil getting to where it should be.  Result mimimum bearing changes due to rust etc for all my engines.  BTB I live in FNQ (Far North QLD) at present the humidity is 80% in my shed.  Normal for this time of year.    

mike109

G'day up there in FNQ. I followed your example and put my Saito 65 in my Lanzo Bomber. So far it has had only one flight and it went well. I was able to remove all the lead I had added to balance the Saito 62. The first flight was a pretty tame affair as I had the balance at the rear of the recommended range and wanted to go carefully. I took off more like a Texaco plane than a Duration one and once I was sure it was flying OK I hit the power and went straight up. There wasn't much lift around so the flight was not very long but it showed that the 65 is a good engine for the plane.

Cheers

Mike in Dubbo

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Glad things went well for you

Jimmy Hoffa

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I never thought about a moisture problem by emptying unused and contaminated fuel back into the jug, but I will in the future.

Phillip