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I got a reply from Paul at RC Bearings today. He said they got in a batch of misidentified bearings and will ship out the correct one hopefully soon. Looks like my poor Saito will be on the back burner until then.
Old Fart, I see you're from Perth. When I was in the Navy I went to Perth/Fremantle in 84 or 85 on the USS Constellation (CV64). I was an avionics tech. back then. Anyways, Perth is a beautiful city. Even more after all that time at sea. We took a wine tour up the Swan river (I think). Whoo!!!
Also, all the cabbies made sure to point out where America's Cup was. Yup, be that way. lol
Old Fart, I see you're from Perth. When I was in the Navy I went to Perth/Fremantle in 84 or 85 on the USS Constellation (CV64). I was an avionics tech. back then. Anyways, Perth is a beautiful city. Even more after all that time at sea. We took a wine tour up the Swan river (I think). Whoo!!!
Also, all the cabbies made sure to point out where America's Cup was. Yup, be that way. lol
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Old Fart, I concur. A couple of things, I got a good (read very) report about some Mew Gulls (f/glass) being manufactured in Rockhampton for Golden Era racing and guess what they are using and I quote "big Saitos for the testing phase. My mate tells me they are almost the same dimensions and weight as the Seagull version.
On another interesting note do you know what happens to an ESM version of a P40 if you don't secure the wings to the wing tubes, I'll tel you you make avery expensive splash nto a creek and write of a new very expensive Saito twin gas engine (it would appear as if they don't like the suden cooling that an imersion in cold water gices them, radio gear well who would want it after being dragged out of the mud.
These "big engines" are a new dimension for me but like putting bigger engines in my cars when young it gets the juices flowing
Keep me informed, I have a big P47 that is looking for motive power if I don't move it on to another modeller so I am interested in hearing how it goes.
I met David Henshaw (from Shuttleworth Collection Mew Gull pilot) in the 1980's when he bought the red DH88 out to a do Ansett was having to celebrate 50 odd years in existance. I helped him with some engines for it and now that a/c is flying with Gypsy Queens supplied out of the spares from Connellan Airlines Herons.
Nuff but I mentioned it cause I have plans for both the Gypsy and Riley versions of that and Saito 50's are recommended for it (4 off)
On another interesting note do you know what happens to an ESM version of a P40 if you don't secure the wings to the wing tubes, I'll tel you you make avery expensive splash nto a creek and write of a new very expensive Saito twin gas engine (it would appear as if they don't like the suden cooling that an imersion in cold water gices them, radio gear well who would want it after being dragged out of the mud.
These "big engines" are a new dimension for me but like putting bigger engines in my cars when young it gets the juices flowing
Keep me informed, I have a big P47 that is looking for motive power if I don't move it on to another modeller so I am interested in hearing how it goes.
I met David Henshaw (from Shuttleworth Collection Mew Gull pilot) in the 1980's when he bought the red DH88 out to a do Ansett was having to celebrate 50 odd years in existance. I helped him with some engines for it and now that a/c is flying with Gypsy Queens supplied out of the spares from Connellan Airlines Herons.
Nuff but I mentioned it cause I have plans for both the Gypsy and Riley versions of that and Saito 50's are recommended for it (4 off)
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Hi i had a US marine cousin on that aircraft carrier and he was good enough to take me for a half lap journey around it in the jeep and talked to some of his mates,really good fun you'd have to work on it to see the lot it's bloody massive![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I've looked at the glass versions.I've read alex henshaws 'sigh of a merlin' and would like to replicate that a bit on a much smaller scale,it's a change from 46ax's and scanners fluttering bye![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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I've looked at the glass versions.I've read alex henshaws 'sigh of a merlin' and would like to replicate that a bit on a much smaller scale,it's a change from 46ax's and scanners fluttering bye
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Guys,
I am in need of some help. I have a Saito FA-125 engine and on a recent crash, i damaged the Cylinder head, and the rocker covers. Though i was able to find out the part for the Cylinder head on Horizon Hobby, I was unable to locate the exact part number for the rocker arm covers. Could anyone please help me find this out ? I do not want to waste money ordering parts which are of no use to me.
Thank You so much !!!
-Gaurav
I am in need of some help. I have a Saito FA-125 engine and on a recent crash, i damaged the Cylinder head, and the rocker covers. Though i was able to find out the part for the Cylinder head on Horizon Hobby, I was unable to locate the exact part number for the rocker arm covers. Could anyone please help me find this out ? I do not want to waste money ordering parts which are of no use to me.
Thank You so much !!!
-Gaurav
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Thanks Barry. I now have FA-56 and FA-65; looking for an FA-100. Starting off at the lowend...
Iwas in the hobby back in the '80s for a few years and recently re-entered.
I was quite a bit younger then (obviously) and didn't quite have the discretionary funds to play in it the way I wanted (like Ido now
). I always preferred the sound and mechanics of the 4-strokes. This time I am going to start off primarily 4-stroke glow with a few 2-strokes mixed in, but I definitely like these Saitos.
I keep hearing about folks shifting over to gas to save money on glow fuel (actually, I hear other reasons stated as well, such as not having to wipe lubricant off one's planes after flight), but I can buy a lot of jugs of fuel going from a plane with a $500-800 price tag vs. $1500-? for those big 50cc planes!
Rick
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Iwas in the hobby back in the '80s for a few years and recently re-entered.
I was quite a bit younger then (obviously) and didn't quite have the discretionary funds to play in it the way I wanted (like Ido now
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I keep hearing about folks shifting over to gas to save money on glow fuel (actually, I hear other reasons stated as well, such as not having to wipe lubricant off one's planes after flight), but I can buy a lot of jugs of fuel going from a plane with a $500-800 price tag vs. $1500-? for those big 50cc planes!
Rick
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Not sure how one goes about becoming a member but in the last month I purchased my first Saito (FA-82b) then another a week later and an FA-40 this past Wednesday. All NIB.
Reckon I'm up to my neck in them now
,
Clay
Reckon I'm up to my neck in them now
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Looks like you are #726 Clay. Just subscribe to the thread and take the next number, Iam surmising.
BTW folks, on the muffler of my recently acquired FA-65, the paint has softened and is falling off from being put up oiled/after being bench ran.
I would like to go ahead and dissolve/remove the paint and take it down to bare metal because Ithink that would be an improvement. I was thinking an overnight soak in carburator cleaner might do the trick.
Anyone else have any thoughts on the best way to safely remove the stock black paint? Another thought is to take it to the powdercoat place my sister works at and have them refinish it; however, they are used to refinishing lawn furniture so I am a bit concerned about letting them get near my engine parts with their sandblast happy hands!![](http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/whatchutalkingabout_smile.gif)
101290098
Funny, Iwas looking back at this thread and noticed Ihad inadvertantly typed in a part no. for a o-ring here at work! Hope that confused you guys as much as me! Too many windows...
BTW folks, on the muffler of my recently acquired FA-65, the paint has softened and is falling off from being put up oiled/after being bench ran.
I would like to go ahead and dissolve/remove the paint and take it down to bare metal because Ithink that would be an improvement. I was thinking an overnight soak in carburator cleaner might do the trick.
Anyone else have any thoughts on the best way to safely remove the stock black paint? Another thought is to take it to the powdercoat place my sister works at and have them refinish it; however, they are used to refinishing lawn furniture so I am a bit concerned about letting them get near my engine parts with their sandblast happy hands!
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101290098
Funny, Iwas looking back at this thread and noticed Ihad inadvertantly typed in a part no. for a o-ring here at work! Hope that confused you guys as much as me! Too many windows...
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w8ye, only the muffler is painted. It is not the GK version. This is a '80s vintage FA-65.
Here is one like it (if you look closely around the pressure tap, this one appears to have been painted once upon a time):
![](http://images.rcuniverse.com/market/itemimages/Feb/848239-2-5928.jpg)
P.S.: My engine is a bit older than this FA-65, as mine has the air bleed low speed mix carb.
Rick
Here is one like it (if you look closely around the pressure tap, this one appears to have been painted once upon a time):
![](http://images.rcuniverse.com/market/itemimages/Feb/848239-2-5928.jpg)
P.S.: My engine is a bit older than this FA-65, as mine has the air bleed low speed mix carb.
Rick
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that is burned on castor oil
You can soak the muffler in a potpourri pot filled with regular antifreeze for a couple days and it will come off
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Here is the wrecked 56 Ibought at a swap for $10:
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4499/1205973525_LHeAf-L.jpg)
This is the air bleed carb that came with my recently acquired FA-65, along with the painted muffler that came with the engine:
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4500/1205974815_4GLbE-L.jpg)
And finally, this is a quick shot of the vintage 65 with the carb from the wrecked 56 mounted.Horizon sells this very carb for the 56, 62, and 65 as a replacement. Ithink it will run better with the more modern carburator. Ihave the more modern muffler soaking in Berryman Chem Dip tonight. It did not seem to be removing the varnish after 20 min or so, but Iwill look at how it does in the morning. I will also try the anti-freeze and what a local member of our club recommended, some kind of "Super Pot Soaking Dawn Formula" that he heard of. As you can see, thisengine came with a black painted muffler. I am guessing this engine is from the early days of Saito.
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4502/1205975536_Sry8L-L.jpg)
Rick
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4499/1205973525_LHeAf-L.jpg)
This is the air bleed carb that came with my recently acquired FA-65, along with the painted muffler that came with the engine:
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4500/1205974815_4GLbE-L.jpg)
And finally, this is a quick shot of the vintage 65 with the carb from the wrecked 56 mounted.Horizon sells this very carb for the 56, 62, and 65 as a replacement. Ithink it will run better with the more modern carburator. Ihave the more modern muffler soaking in Berryman Chem Dip tonight. It did not seem to be removing the varnish after 20 min or so, but Iwill look at how it does in the morning. I will also try the anti-freeze and what a local member of our club recommended, some kind of "Super Pot Soaking Dawn Formula" that he heard of. As you can see, thisengine came with a black painted muffler. I am guessing this engine is from the early days of Saito.
![](http://rickbrad.smugmug.com/Family/2011/Q1/IMG4502/1205975536_Sry8L-L.jpg)
Rick
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Hi Rick,
You're referring to "Dawn Power Dissolver". I've used it and it works nicely for up to moderate goo on the engine. Don't leave it on more than 30 minutes or so (per directions) or it might start to pit or stain the surface. For heavy stuff, I've used the ATF (as you mentioned) in a mini crock pot. Do that outside, for domestic tranquility. Works quite well.
Your $10 engine could be a nice steal if the crank and other critical items are still straight. I wish I could come across deals like that. I've had some good ones, and been burned once or twice.
Let us know how your project goes. Do you only need to replace the cylinder and piston? I am guessing that the carb is an optional extra (i.e., nice to have, but the old one will at least get the engine running).
Keep us in the loop,
Bob
You're referring to "Dawn Power Dissolver". I've used it and it works nicely for up to moderate goo on the engine. Don't leave it on more than 30 minutes or so (per directions) or it might start to pit or stain the surface. For heavy stuff, I've used the ATF (as you mentioned) in a mini crock pot. Do that outside, for domestic tranquility. Works quite well.
Your $10 engine could be a nice steal if the crank and other critical items are still straight. I wish I could come across deals like that. I've had some good ones, and been burned once or twice.
Let us know how your project goes. Do you only need to replace the cylinder and piston? I am guessing that the carb is an optional extra (i.e., nice to have, but the old one will at least get the engine running).
Keep us in the loop,
Bob
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For all those who gave me valuable advice on the 1/3 cub that I was building, she flew last Sunday. Here is the video of the maiden flight.http://www.youtube.com/user/9z4clb?f...zmqgfT6OQQMany thanks for the advice.Kevin
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Bob,
I saw the ziplock bag full of FA-56 parts at a swap meet for $10. I already had a beautifully running 56, so Ibegrudgingly left the parts on the table telling myself Ihave too much junk!
Then, Icame across the vintage 65 here on RCU, new except for a bench run. When Igot it (sight unseen, Ibought it by description only) Isaw it had the older air-bleed type carb. I know the FA-65 shipped with both styles so this made me immediately think of that bag of parts - Icalled the guy and he mailed them to me! Ithink Iowe him his postage +$10!
Idon't think Iwill restore the FA-56 that was crashed, it would just be prohibitively expensive. The cylinder, one of the valve covers, both pushrods, bearings, the rod, piston and ring are damaged or gone.
I really just wanted it for the carburator, but got a lot of spares for my 56 - such as the bottom case, cam, a valve cover, the valves, rockers, springs, etc. Also, Istill have the air-bleed carb that Itook off the 65 if I have any troubles running it (Idon't anticipate any) or if Iwant to try the airbleed or turn it back to original.
I will keep you posted on the run-in of the FA-65; hopefully Ican get it on a test stand today.</p>
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Sounds good, I didn't know that everything else was damaged like that. I got my hands on a vintage Saito 120. I had to replace the case but even at that, I have a large sized Saito in my collection now (albeit heavy, but good if you like short-nosed WWI models).
Bob
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<font face="Times New Roman"><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Hello Club Saito,</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">I have a newer .82 that I am trying to get tuned right but so</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">far my efforts have been met with little success.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>In order to get</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">the transition from idle to full throttle to work without gasping,</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">hesitating or dying,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I have to richen the low needle quite a lot.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">This makes the low end to rich and mid throttle rich and blubbering.
I always reset the high speed to peak rpm then richen it</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">up a little to the smokey side of peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Maybe 100 rpm from</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">peak.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">What am I missing here?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I just cant get it to run smooth at all</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">throttle positions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>My other 4 strokes run like they are electric, </font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">just perfect.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">15% Fuel ,, OS F glow plug,,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>13x6 apc and 14x6 apc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</span>This is on a 3D plane so I need it to work though out the rpm range.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">About 2 gallons through it and has great compression,, strong engine on the big end! </font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">I have been told that 30% fuel is needed to get this engine to run</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">right and that is indeed what the 3D crowd runs in the satio's.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Help Please!</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Tim</font></p>
</p></font>
I always reset the high speed to peak rpm then richen it</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">up a little to the smokey side of peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Maybe 100 rpm from</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">peak.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">What am I missing here?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I just cant get it to run smooth at all</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">throttle positions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>My other 4 strokes run like they are electric, </font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">just perfect.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">15% Fuel ,, OS F glow plug,,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>13x6 apc and 14x6 apc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</span>This is on a 3D plane so I need it to work though out the rpm range.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">About 2 gallons through it and has great compression,, strong engine on the big end! </font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">I have been told that 30% fuel is needed to get this engine to run</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">right and that is indeed what the 3D crowd runs in the satio's.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Help Please!</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Tim</font></p>
</p></font>
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Hi tim i have two of the earlier 82;s it's the same engine and the best i can tune them so far is great transition off the bottom right thru to peak rpm but if i throttle up gradually you can hear that it gets bubbly in the midrange.The low speed needle is quite sensitive.
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timt2000,
I would suggest checking the valve gaps on the engine before you do anything. If the valve gaps have closed up it can really affect how the engine behaves and runs.
I would suggest checking the valve gaps on the engine before you do anything. If the valve gaps have closed up it can really affect how the engine behaves and runs.
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Thanks guys for the reply, I will check the valve gap first thing. I have never
had the covers off of this engine as it is pretty new.
Are there glow plugs that might work better during the rpm pick up stage?
If I increase the throttle slowly, I can get away with a leaner low end. But I
have a fast servo on it for 3D.
Thanks
Tim
had the covers off of this engine as it is pretty new.
Are there glow plugs that might work better during the rpm pick up stage?
If I increase the throttle slowly, I can get away with a leaner low end. But I
have a fast servo on it for 3D.
Thanks
Tim