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Old 03-28-2013, 05:04 AM
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Leaving the cost out of it, the OS-f is just way overrated, the Taipan 4c, the GloDevil 4c special, the Fox Miracle and the Saito SS are all every bit as good. I'm sure there are others as well.
Old 03-28-2013, 05:10 AM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Peter, I have seen over the years, pictures of plugs whose elements have had little rounds blobs of something but it never looked like metal. It always appeared to be something non metal that leached out of the fuel during the combustion process. I have never that from any fuel I've used. So far anyway.

Hi Dave, could those little blobs be silicon from silicone oils being used either in the fuel or as part of an after-run or storage process? I have heard this happening and the silicon can coat the element keeping it from interacting with the methanol and inhibiting the catalyzing effect.

Vbr, Richard (now living in Connecticut nearer to my grandkids)
Old 03-28-2013, 05:17 AM
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Hey Richard, I never did get to run your Saito twin. I think I've read before about those blobs being caused by Silicon. Have you figured out their two seasons up there, July and winter. I have never seen those blobs on a fourstroke plug, only on two stroke plugs.
Old 03-28-2013, 05:19 AM
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About 3 years ago I bought 2 sheets of glowplugs from Fox at the Toledo Show. Their prices were incredibly low (half or less?). I couldn't pass it up. I might get some more this year if they are on sale. I bought a sheet of Fox Miracle (2 and 4 stroke) and a sheet of Fox Gold Pro #8 (cold).
Old 03-29-2013, 04:26 AM
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Can't remember if I mentioned it here earlier, but at an estate sale recently I grabbed a huge plastic drawer assembly. Had a quick boo ahead of bringing it down from the attic and saw lots of good bits. Never did a full inventory till home. Found for my $25 I got more than I could have expected and am still doing organizing with my own stuff.

The point is, included was a large drawer FULL, (28!) split pretty evenly between still packaged OS F and RE plugs, (used in the Wankel Rotary). From what I gather the RE are in the hotter range and should also work fine with my 4-strokes.
Old 03-29-2013, 04:31 AM
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Great catch, that RE plug sure doesn't have many threads on it though.
Old 03-29-2013, 04:44 AM
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Not sure if you are looking at the correct plug, since if you placed the F and RE together it would be difficult without the code to differentiate between the two. I have them in front of the keyboard now and can post a pic later if anyone requests it.
Old 03-29-2013, 07:20 AM
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C man, I had two of the 1980s Wankel .30s and they took a very short plug, I see they now take an F. I believe an F wouls have hit the rota in the ones I had.
Old 03-29-2013, 12:58 PM
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria

The fact that we are discussing the valve lash between .002'' and .004'' only proves how good Saitos are. Other engine threads would be discussing ''why doesn't this engine start'' or ''why did my engine die'' or some other calamity.

Good luck on your knee replacement, SrTelemaster150. I hope it all goes well.
Just getting to were I can move around some on my own.

I'm not sure about the FA120 but the cylinder hieght of the 180/150 are the same.
The extra engine hieght is taken up by a .055" taller deck on the 180 case.
Old 03-29-2013, 01:14 PM
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Get well soon, SrT.

Dave, maybe that is the same kind of silicon that we heard too much ArmorAll in the fuel would cause.
Old 03-29-2013, 03:05 PM
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ORIGINAL: blw

Get well soon, SrT.

Dave, maybe that is the same kind of silicon that we heard too much ArmorAll in the fuel would cause.
I read that somewhere here that Armorall is used by some people for anti-foaming in the fuel?
Old 03-29-2013, 03:19 PM
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I have never done that but I think those were guys saying they had to little buds or blisters on their glow plugs. Silica under heat becomes glass but I don't if that's whats in Armorall..
Old 03-29-2013, 04:10 PM
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I was able to get a measurement today. I had a little trouble getting the arm on the calipers to rest flat across the rocker cover while keeping the bar perfectly vertical, but I'm pretty close with 113mm. Not sure if that is telling me exactly what I have. I'm also going to get a weight comparison to a known 180. We'll see how that turns out.

Rick...
Old 03-29-2013, 05:38 PM
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ORIGINAL: RH

I was able to get a measurement today. I had a little trouble getting the arm on the calipers to rest flat across the rocker cover while keeping the bar perfectly vertical, but I'm pretty close with 113mm. Not sure if that is telling me exactly what I have. I'm also going to get a weight comparison to a known 180. We'll see how that turns out.

Rick...
Set the engine upside down on the rocker covers flat on a table top While holding the rocker covers flat & square on the table top. Measure to the center of the prop hub. You can also measre from the top of the engine mount side bar to the top of the rocker boxes. Either of these methods should give you the m"C" dimensionm in the Saito spec's.

The "C" dimension should equal 111mm FA120, 112mm FA150, 113mm For FA180.

http://saito-engines.info/specifications.html
Old 03-30-2013, 02:04 AM
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We'll have to start calling you 'dickie knee' a famous character over here
Old 03-30-2013, 02:14 AM
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Dave i know you talk about cline regulaters a lot and how good they are.Never tried one yet but i see christian traders sells them here in aus.Will buy one and try it on my new 46 size deccy with 82 fitted.Running a turboheader muffler very kindly sent to me by jim from rc specialties.I'm doing a back to back comparison where the previous deccy carried the oem muffler and standard two line fuel system.It will be interesting to see how different things pan out performance wise on the same prop.Now two points about the cline,fuel pressure between 2 and 12 psi? and broader hsn adjustment? i like main needles to be like tuning an old radio into a station you really want to listen to,short and crisp
Old 03-30-2013, 03:57 AM
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That approach makes a lot of sense. It will make it a lot easier to get a measurement exactly perpendicular to the drive shaft. Thanks for that tip.

Rick...
Old 03-30-2013, 04:06 AM
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Sounds great Peter, two important things to do when installing a Cline. Number ! place the regulator body as close to the fuel inlet as possible, 2nd gently push a .050" or metric equivalent ball driver through the duck bill of the check valve. Sometimes the lips are stuck together from laying around. When I use a regulator I only richen the mixture about 100 rpm below peak because the lowering fuel level will no longer effect the mixture. The same level of lube is always in the crankcase no matter the mixture.
Old 03-30-2013, 08:02 AM
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So, indirectly, a Cline regulators do help increase engine power by allowing the HSN to be tune closer to peak without fear of leaning out at lower fuel tank levels.
Old 03-30-2013, 08:51 AM
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The engine will run the same from full tank to empty, I've experimented by placing a tank 30" from the engine with no change in the way it runs.
Old 03-30-2013, 01:47 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

The engine will run the same from full tank to empty, I've experimented by placing a tank 30'' from the engine with no change in the way it runs.
I've tried to find s dependible ready source for the Cline Regulators W/O much luck.

I like to mount my fuel tanks over the CG. I've used the Perry Ocsilating pumps W/some success, but I would like to try the Cline regulator
Old 03-30-2013, 03:16 PM
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http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/
Old 03-30-2013, 03:34 PM
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Thanks good advice is much appreciated.I've always run about 400 to 500 rich because i had more power than i needed anyway.Will mount the tank back on the cg now but won't be using the one supplied.Anybody have some experience with rotoflow tanks?

A few years back Dave mentioned that he'd run the fa220 with a saito pump made for the japanese market only and did'nt like it from memory.I see some guys here using perry pumps with mixed success,they never seem to find the sweet spot on a regular basis.
Old 03-30-2013, 04:09 PM
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Yes, Horizon sold that "pump" with a slightly larger carb for $114.00, the larger carb worked much better with the IronBay regulator. I think that Dan posted a picture of that pump back several posts. It used check valve to trap air in the crankcase then used a needle valve to control the crankcase vent.

I have eyeballed those Rotoflow tanks, a bit pricey but look like excellent quality.
Old 03-30-2013, 05:08 PM
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A member of our local flying club passed away recently at the young age of 39. He was a big "collector" of planes, engines, and all things RC and he loved those Saitos. When our club stepped up to help his family liquidate his collection, I bought some of his Saitos, new and used, since I love those Saitos too. Some of the used engines are a bit worse for wear so this will give me the opportunity to try my hand at restoring / rebuilding this type of engine, something I've wanted to get into for quite some time.

So here's where I'm hoping some of you may be able to provide some guidance. Some years ago a fellow by the name of Scott Gilkey who was well known in the SSC combat circles wrote an excellent document on the rebuilding and maintenance of the small two stroke engines they use in competition. I learned a ton from his articles and was able to service several of my own small engines.

What I'm wondering now is if there are any similar documents available that deal specifically with the Saito 4 strokes. I started sifting through the early segments of this thread and quickly realized that it would take me forever to wade through the 970 pages of this thread. I'm thinking that perhaps someone has consolidated the best discussions over time and has made them available online somewhere. Any guidance anyone can give me in this regard would be much appreciated.

Rick...


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