donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone know how to get into the radio box on this hydro without having to dismantle the entire tuned muffler setup ? I have to charge the batteries and it looks like it will take and hour or so to get the cover off the water proof box just to do that. I would warn all would be buyers of this hydro to think twice before buying this boat(1/8 scale) because of this problem. Who ever thought of this set up has to be crazy. Helllooo people we need to get into the radio box to charge receiver batteries.!! If anyone knows of a way to convert this please let us know.
Thanks
Don

mopartybob

LMAO....Welcome to the Learning Curve (BIG part of the hobby)...but seriously Don,IF you paid FULL PRICE,for your PROBOAT,It would behooves other's to heed your warning....LOL....,Lets see now,did you get instructions or a manual with your boat....never mind....depending on your exhaust configeration,you do what you have to do to swap'em out,BUT,while your in there....consider what would make life easier next time around.....maybe a rechargable 6.0V battery pack???you'll also have to change the On/Off sw. for one that has a recharge jack on it...and possibly relocate it to a more user friendly /accessable location,you can leave the recharge jack outside the box,(wrapped in a teeny weeny rubber)...[:-]consider also on bagging your reciever and waterproofing your servos and electrical connections while your in there,you can liberally swab vaseline or di-electric grease over the connections,servo wire bundle boots,and under the servo arms(remove the top of the screw to the servo arm)pull the arm off and dont forget to mark the exact setting!while doing this....replace all and figger out where the COG is before you run it again........ but i'm sure that and MANY more questions will follow....yes,i have a 1/8 proboat....here's a link to a build that has some good tips for you also.. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4900779 ...here's a short vid of my 11 yro son's boat.... http://www.vimeo.com/605591

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Bob, I pd. $700.00 for the boat from the hobby shop who used it one day last summer. They were asking 1000.00 in the box. No instruction manual. I didnt know at the time that the batteries were not recharable. (whats with that ?) Couldnt understand why no charger now of course I know. My question is: How will I know when the batteries need replacing ? Take everything all apart and check everytime I take it out? That will get me getting out of the hobby quickley and making a "garage queen" out of it I would not want to do it the hard way and wait for the batteries to die while at speed. Could be disastrous for the boat and anybody in its way. I should have been more thoughtful and checked this out closer before purchasing this boat. Or maybe the Chinese "toy" engineers should have done that. When they design things like this you suddenly realize "Hey they hate us"
Anyhow thanks for the tips
Don

mopartybob

no prob don,changing/checking batteries can be a pain,especially if you just changed them and then fergot to turn'em off after that first run....[:@],but don't let that stop you from enjoying this great hobby,you'll soon find there are plenty of reasons, but none of them good enuff to fold your hand....stick with the info posted in this forum,along with your common sense,and you'll come up with a viable solution to maintaining your boat(any boat) and thuswhile expanding your learning curve....use the search function located in the upper left corner and type in 1/8 proboat,you'll find alot of info there...good luck let us know if you need more help...

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

One more question. Where can I buy drive line parts for this boat ? I have practically destroyed the drive dog and the brass thingy (the one with 2 set screws) because the only way I could get the drive shaft (propellor) out was to beat it out with a small hammer and screwdriver. I cant figure out why you just can't pull these things out by hand. I tried with all my strength to pull this propeller shaft out by brute force and it wont come out except to hammer it out and in the process I destroyed both nylon washers. And in this hick town I live in there are no nylon washers to be had. I've been all over the internet looking for llumar parts but nobody stocks anything. Any suggestions ??
Thanks,
Don

chief3452

Hey Donandmax,

Horizon Hobby http://search.horizonrc.com/index.js...d=1191AC207918 check it out, good service, fast shipping. Take care,

Scott

mopartybob

Here ya go buddy... http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing ,the parts listing for the Elam are the same for the Llumar,Bud boats....next time afore you take a hamma to dese tings, make an inquiry here as to a possible solution to ease things out.....like maybe a little heat on the subject coulda helped.....[:-] we're here to help....

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

yer right, went to Horizon and got the parts
Thanks guys, I'll try heat next time, but don't know why ya have to use hammer or heat. Tehy should just pull out and push back in but had to use the hammer both times,
Thanks
Don

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

I have two questions: 1. Havent got a owners manual so don't know how to pull out the drive cable from the clutch in order to lube it.
2. If I tighten down on the propeller nut in order to tighten the propeller (so it does'nt part company with the drive line) the drive dog pushes even farther down the shaft leaving the prop and shaft with no end play and the cable so tight it barely turns. I have the two screws on the collet as tight as humanly possible to get them (without rounding out the adjustment screws). It doesnt take much tightening on the prop nut to start pushing the drive dog down farther either..
Sure could use some help on this one so I can take her out for a trial run, but can,t before this problem is solved.
Thanks
Don M

mopartybob

here ya go buddy ... http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB2950 ,you can download the manual,and it spells out the way to do it,I think it's para. 17,...you also need to notch your prop shaft to keep your dog from sliding down,you can do this with a dremel or a flat file,you don't want to go too deep just a flat spot for the grub screw to rest flat on,and no need to OVERtighten your prop screw,use a double nut or a piece of silicone tubing to help prevent it from backing out,also use BLUE loc-tite on all grub screws,and wherever else you have metal-metal tapped holes....don't overdo it .....did you really have to hammer the prop shaft back in??? [:@]

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

OK Bob, I downloaded the manual for Miss Elam because I don't think Proboat handles the Miss llumar anymore at least I only see 1/12 scale. Unless I missed something could'nt find the 1/8 version. But with the exception of name I'm sure their both the same boat..Thanks again
Don M

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Oh yes almost forgot, I had to tap it in with a small tack hammer. I guess maybe I overdo the HAMMER thing. Don't have to quite hammer it but I find it impossible to pull it out or push it in without some other use of force.

mopartybob

HHHmmm,should'nt have to.....[:-],try some emery cloth on the shaft,roll it on a flat table or piece of glass to be sure it's not..... bent.....[:@]

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Bob, found the answer to the problem, at the end of the shaft it had a couple of burrs which I filed off and smoothed with emery paper and now it slips in and out with no problem. Thanks for the tips.
Don

mopartybob

cool,glad to help..[&:],please refer to this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4900779 on shimming the strut and other neat tips,the benefits of shimming the strut are worthwhile and easy to do,loosen front screws,loosen/remove the back ones,insert washers/shim in the back end of the strut screw holes to achieve a 3/16" gap,retighten but don't overtighten,use the blue loc-tite if you can,this trick keeps the back end from dragging thru the water,keep a close eye on it's tendency to blo-over,add stick on lead weights as needed to prevent thisas the COG on these things are inherintly bad....[:'(] install some retrieval hooks on the front sponsons to help snagging this critter,should it run out of gas on you while havin fun....[:-]

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Bob, Someone on this blog said he removed the rear horizontal fin(elevator on a plane) and this helped with the handling don't know if he meant it subtracted some weight so the stern would ride a little higher or what his motive was. What do you think about removing it. Also I understand these boats fill up with water quite easily I have a auto bailer exactly where shoud I install it in the stern ?
Thanks again,
Don

mopartybob

here's a pic from that thread showing the location of the auto-bailer(s),yes, some people do remove the rear wing to save a little weight,have you checked your CenterOfGravity yet???(COG),a very Quick way to do this is to pick up the boat by using your L/R index fingers,by placing them on either side of the hull,about 2-3" BEHIND the rear of the front sponsons,if the back end drops,move your fingers rearward till the boat baa-lances evenly,you have now roughly(or purty darn near found your COG),The ideal location should be 1-3" behind the rear of the front sponsons....[&:] and don't be surprised if you find it's COG,5-7" behind....[:@]I had to add almost 25 oz. to get mine to baa-lance....,get this right BEFORE you take her out,or you'll be retreiving it most assuredly.... I've tweaked the rear of the wing down to put more lift in the tail end,by doing so I was able to remove some lead weight off the nose, still working on the tweaks of "other" things to get'er to ride where she is just tickling the water with the sponsons,as it should be....

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

How much space or play should there be between the dog drive and shaft bearing. I read somewhere 1/4 in.!! Is this right ? Reason said was "so you don't snap or destroy the flex cable" Is this really necessary on Miss llumar ?
Thanks
Don M

mopartybob

yes,it is neccesary,the flex shaft cable will tighten it self as more load is put on it,thus making it shorter as it does so,the spacing allows the leeway to compensate for this,the unwritten rule is the spacing should match the width of the cable used......[8D] are you using the clutch or direct drive?

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

OK Bob, 1/4 in. it is. I'm using clutch and cable
Thanks
Don

mopartybob

did you check your center of gravity as mentioned earlier???, it is VERY important with the 1/8 proboat,especially with the added weight of the clutch,I cannot be more serious on this issue,you MUST add weight to the front canard,(stick-on lead) or whatever type of lead you can find (wheel weights)etc....,to bring the COG (baa-lance point) to within 3" of the rear of the front sponsons,if you forsake doing this, the least that can happen is that you'll have a VERY unstable boat at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, and the worst that can happen is that ......welll....you have a sunken boat..(due to blo-over)(don't forget to release the throttle at that point prior to)..simple as that....don't forget to stick some pool noodle inside the hull,or something similar to help flotation.....and the most IMPORTANT one of them all....don't forget to raise your transmitter antennae....we've all done that at one time or another...[:@]...lol....

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

It's impossible to get more than 1/8 of a inch (if that) free play out of the drive dog and bearing. Because the flat spots for the dog and flex cable connection will not allow more adjustment than that. Also where does all this weight go.on the outside of the sponsons or inside of whatever. 24 oz. seems quite a lot of weight sitting on the outside. (and ugly) I know better than a blow over. Could it be placed on top of the gas tank ? And where do you obtain this weight. Sure wish I would have known all this before I spent all this money on this poorly designed boat. I have to make this work because the dear wife says we need a bathroom makeover. Whoa is me !
Thanks again
Don

mopartybob

If it was as simple as we'ed like it to be,we'ed still be in the trees,communicating with each other by clicks and grunts.....LOL...,assemble the shaft in the proper location,do not use the part of the shaft that has been pre-notched,but locate the drive dog grub screw 180* to the other side of the shaft,mark off your 1/4" spacing, and using a dremel or flat file,make a new notch....[&:],there's more than one way to skin a cat.......[:-]as for the weight,where did your COG happen to be? the flat stick-on weights can be ordered online, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=RF&search3=Go , they are more commonly used to baa-lance airplanes....but you can use fishing weights placed in front of the gas tank till you get some,although a little more will be needed as it's not ideally located in the most frontal part of the hull,which would be "under the front wing" or inside the sponson tip(s),....Now you really don't feel like re-doin the bathroom.....do you......[:-]

rclover95

My Feedback: (1)

WHAT SIZE IS THE PROP SHAFT ON A 1/8 scale miss llumar?

Proboat 772

Shaft is 3/16" You need a bushing for the 1/4" bore props