BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
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BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I have now run a little over a gallon through my BME 110X and the needles are finally getting dialed in.
Setup
BME 110X
Mejlick 28-10 Prop
JMB 80/70/300 Canisters
Custom built headers about 7!QUOT! long
Godfrey 33% Extra, 23.5lbs, 98!QUOT!span
I must say that this motor is well worth the 3 month wait it took to get it. It is extremely smooth from idle up through full throttle and never misses a beat. I am getting 6500rpm with 90 degree air and 2500ft altitude. Who knows maybe there is another 100rpm in there as it breaks in. Throttle is very quick and responsive. Vertical performance is sparkling. Hover is at quarter throttle but still responsive. My flying buddy who has a 40% Carden with DA150 couldn't get enough of this plane. Vertical is much better than his. He performed continuous snap rolls going up and turned it into a dot in the sky.
My hat is off to Keith Baker for making a great running engine, with awesome performance and also somehow cutting 2lbs of weight.
Get one for yourself, you won't regret it.
xcellheli
Setup
BME 110X
Mejlick 28-10 Prop
JMB 80/70/300 Canisters
Custom built headers about 7!QUOT! long
Godfrey 33% Extra, 23.5lbs, 98!QUOT!span
I must say that this motor is well worth the 3 month wait it took to get it. It is extremely smooth from idle up through full throttle and never misses a beat. I am getting 6500rpm with 90 degree air and 2500ft altitude. Who knows maybe there is another 100rpm in there as it breaks in. Throttle is very quick and responsive. Vertical performance is sparkling. Hover is at quarter throttle but still responsive. My flying buddy who has a 40% Carden with DA150 couldn't get enough of this plane. Vertical is much better than his. He performed continuous snap rolls going up and turned it into a dot in the sky.
My hat is off to Keith Baker for making a great running engine, with awesome performance and also somehow cutting 2lbs of weight.
Get one for yourself, you won't regret it.
xcellheli
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I haven't measured the sound level because I don't have a meter, but they are much quiter than the small motor mounted mufflers. Plus they give it a lower key rumble instead of a popping sound. Any one who has used canisters can tell you they sound great. They sound similar to the exhaust on a snowmobile. In the air the plane is very quite until about 3/4 throttle when the prop rip becomes much louder than the exhaust. On a 23lb airplane I spend very little time over 3/4 throttle. If noise is a big concern I would recommend using a 3 blade prop instead, they are very quite.
xcellheli
xcellheli
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
xcellheli, I also have a BME 110 and am very impressed with it. All though I have very little time on it. This summer has been a blurrrr with no time for any fun.
I agree with everything you are saying, Boy I think Keith hit a home run with this one. I also know there must be quite a few out there by now and you really aren't hearing much about them. Maybe this thread will get some response.
Good luck
RTK
I agree with everything you are saying, Boy I think Keith hit a home run with this one. I also know there must be quite a few out there by now and you really aren't hearing much about them. Maybe this thread will get some response.
Good luck
RTK
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
The JMB80/70300 work extremely well with minimum length header on other engines - we try to make header 5-6" if possible.
So far these are quietest cans with nicest sound we have heard .
So far these are quietest cans with nicest sound we have heard .
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
Dick, what is the approimate weight of those cans? I wish there was more feed back on the engine too.
xcellheli, it sounds like you are having fun! Keep us up to date on how it is going.
THere is one 110 at our field and the guy is having problems with it.
Joe
xcellheli, it sounds like you are having fun! Keep us up to date on how it is going.
THere is one 110 at our field and the guy is having problems with it.
Joe
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
One JMB can, header, teflon coupler and two hose clamps weigh 16oz each. With both this adds the two pounds back to the motor that Keith worked so hard to save . Unfortunately I didn't weigh the can by itself. The motor, cans, headers and hardware weigh about 6.8lbs. The ignition and battery add on top of that. Compare that to other high end excellent running motors and the weight savings just keeps getting better. For my plane the other brands where just to heavy if I wanted to use canisters, so I had to wait patiently for my turn in the production run. As it is, I had to mount three servos, reciever and the two 1700mH batteries in the tail.
I do have room to shorten the headers up to an inch and a half, but I will wait until I have the motor fully broken in and the needles at their final setting. I don't want to change to many variables at one time.
It is too bad that someone has had problems with the 110. I too was discouraged the first couple of tanks until I ignored the recommended needle ranges and just adjusted until it sounded right. I am about an 1/8 turn leaner than the bottom of the recommended range on the high needle and 1/4 turn leaner than the bottom of the recommended range on the low needle. The motor is not too lean and I am still sneaking up on it. It must be the altitude and heat at the location I am at. I assume the recommended ranges are for sea level. My flying partner is a pure DA guy and even he couldn't find a bad thing to say about the BME (other than you still can't get them fast enough).
I do have room to shorten the headers up to an inch and a half, but I will wait until I have the motor fully broken in and the needles at their final setting. I don't want to change to many variables at one time.
It is too bad that someone has had problems with the 110. I too was discouraged the first couple of tanks until I ignored the recommended needle ranges and just adjusted until it sounded right. I am about an 1/8 turn leaner than the bottom of the recommended range on the high needle and 1/4 turn leaner than the bottom of the recommended range on the low needle. The motor is not too lean and I am still sneaking up on it. It must be the altitude and heat at the location I am at. I assume the recommended ranges are for sea level. My flying partner is a pure DA guy and even he couldn't find a bad thing to say about the BME (other than you still can't get them fast enough).
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
About time for Kris^ to chime in here..You out there ?
I must say Kris^ had it right about the BME...I met Keith at our race in Kansas and had a 110 Extreme in my hands..Gorgeous !
I must say Kris^ had it right about the BME...I met Keith at our race in Kansas and had a 110 Extreme in my hands..Gorgeous !
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
thats too bad. i think the hassle alone of havinig to design my own headers is going to elimante the bme 110x.
i guess i'm going to have to "settle" for a da 100.
what will i ever do with all that reliablity and power??
tony
i guess i'm going to have to "settle" for a da 100.
what will i ever do with all that reliablity and power??
tony
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I built my headers from scratch. They where easy to build but require access to a TIG welder. For the flange I placed a piece of paper over the motor exaust port and colored over the top with a pencil to get a tracing. I then cut two flanges from 1/4 aluminum plate. For the header I started with 1 inch .045 wall aluminum tub and cut twenty degree wedges out of the pipe (but not all the full way through). This allowed me to easly bend it. Once I had all the cuts I strung bailing wire through the header and twisted it to hold all the wedges tight and then TIG welded each cut point to make the header solid again. Finally I placed a 1/32 plywood shim between the motor and the flange, in the airframe to line up the flanges and tacked the flanges to the header. The wood acts as an insulator so you don't overheat the motor cylinder. After tacking I removed the header and finished welding the flange. The headers look very nice but have a series of welds where each of the wedges were cut. I would of bent them, but it is almost impossible to find a tubing bending with reasonable cost to bend 1 inch tubing with the tight radiuses that are required.
Non of the DA flanges will fit without modification. DA has their bolts on the same centerline, BME has stagered the bolts to the corners. The BME exhaust flange is much larger than the DA and fits a 1inch tube easily without having to smash the end into a rectangle to fit the port. I have seen that K&S does now offer flanges, bends and straight pieces in stainless steel that can be brazed together. Last time I talked with Don at Don's hobbies, he was working on getting these in stock for BME owners.
Non of the DA flanges will fit without modification. DA has their bolts on the same centerline, BME has stagered the bolts to the corners. The BME exhaust flange is much larger than the DA and fits a 1inch tube easily without having to smash the end into a rectangle to fit the port. I have seen that K&S does now offer flanges, bends and straight pieces in stainless steel that can be brazed together. Last time I talked with Don at Don's hobbies, he was working on getting these in stock for BME owners.
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
yeah, thats way too much of a pain. i had pretty much decided on the da anyways, but with everyone claiming these huge power numbers i was of course curious.
its not too big of a deal to me. i know i'm going to like the da and i know its going to work perfect for me.
tony
its not too big of a deal to me. i know i'm going to like the da and i know its going to work perfect for me.
tony
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
Vatechguy3, good luck with the DA, it is a sweet motor, plus you can get them easily. I can't say anything bad about them.
For general Discussion:
I don't think the BME makes huge power over the DA, but after reading different posts, it does seem to make consistently 300-500 more RPM than the DA. Of course the BME is 10cc's larger and this I assume is the largest contributer to those numbers. I am not sure of how much of a difference that would make in the air. For my example, the airframe I have is smaller than the 35% planes that are out there and had I used the DA it would have added 2 more lbs to the nose and an additional 1/2 lb to the tale to counterbalance this. This brings the flying weight up to 26lbs instead of 23.5lbs. I spent much time cussing and swearing that pre made headers where not available, but at the end of the day I could not bring myself to add 2.5 lbs to the airplane just to save a couple of afternoons of work. If you have a 35% aircraft that is designed for the the nose weight such as the Carden, then the BME really doesn't gain you much. Although, I am convinced that through careful building and moving battery packs and other radio gear forward, most 35% aircraft can be built lighter with a BME. Verticle performance is a function of a few things, the thrust vs. the weight of the plane and the drag of the airframe. The drag is hard to change since most IMAC planes are designed to have large amounts of drag, but the weight issue can and does make a difference.
For general Discussion:
I don't think the BME makes huge power over the DA, but after reading different posts, it does seem to make consistently 300-500 more RPM than the DA. Of course the BME is 10cc's larger and this I assume is the largest contributer to those numbers. I am not sure of how much of a difference that would make in the air. For my example, the airframe I have is smaller than the 35% planes that are out there and had I used the DA it would have added 2 more lbs to the nose and an additional 1/2 lb to the tale to counterbalance this. This brings the flying weight up to 26lbs instead of 23.5lbs. I spent much time cussing and swearing that pre made headers where not available, but at the end of the day I could not bring myself to add 2.5 lbs to the airplane just to save a couple of afternoons of work. If you have a 35% aircraft that is designed for the the nose weight such as the Carden, then the BME really doesn't gain you much. Although, I am convinced that through careful building and moving battery packs and other radio gear forward, most 35% aircraft can be built lighter with a BME. Verticle performance is a function of a few things, the thrust vs. the weight of the plane and the drag of the airframe. The drag is hard to change since most IMAC planes are designed to have large amounts of drag, but the weight issue can and does make a difference.
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
Do you have any pics of your set-up by any chance? I also have a 110 that I'm putting on a 2.6 Extra. I'm just trying to see what options are out there. Thanks.
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
RTK, beautiful job on the installation. The BME looks right at home, even though it looks small compared to a DA on that plane. Nobody should let the size fool them though, it is a potent motor.
flyme2dmoon I think I have some pictures of the setup during construction on my laptop at work. I don't feel like taking the front end apart at this point to take pictures. I will post them tomorrow. The JMB cans with headers take up a LOT more room than the stock mufflers, but the sound is sweet and well worth the cost and time. I think RCShowcase has a picture of a Composite ARF with a ZDZ160 and JMB cans that show the cuts to the fiberglass you would have to make to mount canisters. This installation would be similar to yours. I assume they have added a former and/or installed a box inside the fuse to keep hot air from entering the main fuse and forming a tunnel for cooling the canisters
flyme2dmoon I think I have some pictures of the setup during construction on my laptop at work. I don't feel like taking the front end apart at this point to take pictures. I will post them tomorrow. The JMB cans with headers take up a LOT more room than the stock mufflers, but the sound is sweet and well worth the cost and time. I think RCShowcase has a picture of a Composite ARF with a ZDZ160 and JMB cans that show the cuts to the fiberglass you would have to make to mount canisters. This installation would be similar to yours. I assume they have added a former and/or installed a box inside the fuse to keep hot air from entering the main fuse and forming a tunnel for cooling the canisters
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I have had nothing but trouble with my BME 110x.I was hoping to report good thing about this engine
it looked like a beast. The people that say they are tested before they leave the factory that is crap in my case anyway.
The first thing was the timing was it was set to 110dergs BTDC no way that would start.
Once we had set the timing to 27derg BTDC we got it started. No. 2 we started with the carbie needle at factory settings
Petrol was dripping from the bottom of the carbie at idle.
Keith said it is the diaphragm and it was. We finely got the idle running ok No. 3 then we move to the high end big problems here.
The engine started to sag after 3 minutes of running. So we shut it down (lean run) so we adjusted the high a qtr turn out and tried again
After 3 minutes same thing. We ended up with the high out 3 and qtr turns out and still the same. You guys can the the sums on how many times it has been run. After stripping another wooden prop that’s another story. I noted that it felt slightly ruff when I turned the hub. I took the mufflers off and now the pistons are scored.
This was all done on the ground test no cowl was on the aircraft and never got to fly. Dose anyone know how to tune an engine without running it?
Now the engine is sent back to Keith at my cost. It has been nearly 4 weeks Keith has had the engine emailing Keith and waiting for a reply is like waiting for grass to grow. However, I got a reply this morning he said it is not covered by warranty and it is going to cost me $300.00 US for the repairs + shipping. I see what people say about the service now.(you live and learn)
I think if the engine were tested at the factory; I would not be having all these Problems. For those people how will ask what prop etc.
26.x10 3w
32:1 just for run in
Stock mufflers
it looked like a beast. The people that say they are tested before they leave the factory that is crap in my case anyway.
The first thing was the timing was it was set to 110dergs BTDC no way that would start.
Once we had set the timing to 27derg BTDC we got it started. No. 2 we started with the carbie needle at factory settings
Petrol was dripping from the bottom of the carbie at idle.
Keith said it is the diaphragm and it was. We finely got the idle running ok No. 3 then we move to the high end big problems here.
The engine started to sag after 3 minutes of running. So we shut it down (lean run) so we adjusted the high a qtr turn out and tried again
After 3 minutes same thing. We ended up with the high out 3 and qtr turns out and still the same. You guys can the the sums on how many times it has been run. After stripping another wooden prop that’s another story. I noted that it felt slightly ruff when I turned the hub. I took the mufflers off and now the pistons are scored.
This was all done on the ground test no cowl was on the aircraft and never got to fly. Dose anyone know how to tune an engine without running it?
Now the engine is sent back to Keith at my cost. It has been nearly 4 weeks Keith has had the engine emailing Keith and waiting for a reply is like waiting for grass to grow. However, I got a reply this morning he said it is not covered by warranty and it is going to cost me $300.00 US for the repairs + shipping. I see what people say about the service now.(you live and learn)
I think if the engine were tested at the factory; I would not be having all these Problems. For those people how will ask what prop etc.
26.x10 3w
32:1 just for run in
Stock mufflers
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I can't TIG weld. DO you Braze aluminum or do you need to use Stainless Steel?
ORIGINAL: xcellheli
I built my headers from scratch. They where easy to build but require access to a TIG welder. For the flange I placed a piece of paper over the motor exaust port and colored over the top with a pencil to get a tracing. I then cut two flanges from 1/4 aluminum plate. For the header I started with 1 inch .045 wall aluminum tub and cut twenty degree wedges out of the pipe (but not all the full way through). This allowed me to easly bend it. Once I had all the cuts I strung bailing wire through the header and twisted it to hold all the wedges tight and then TIG welded each cut point to make the header solid again. Finally I placed a 1/32 plywood shim between the motor and the flange, in the airframe to line up the flanges and tacked the flanges to the header. The wood acts as an insulator so you don't overheat the motor cylinder. After tacking I removed the header and finished welding the flange. The headers look very nice but have a series of welds where each of the wedges were cut. I would of bent them, but it is almost impossible to find a tubing bending with reasonable cost to bend 1 inch tubing with the tight radiuses that are required.
Non of the DA flanges will fit without modification. DA has their bolts on the same centerline, BME has stagered the bolts to the corners. The BME exhaust flange is much larger than the DA and fits a 1inch tube easily without having to smash the end into a rectangle to fit the port. I have seen that K&S does now offer flanges, bends and straight pieces in stainless steel that can be brazed together. Last time I talked with Don at Don's hobbies, he was working on getting these in stock for BME owners.
I built my headers from scratch. They where easy to build but require access to a TIG welder. For the flange I placed a piece of paper over the motor exaust port and colored over the top with a pencil to get a tracing. I then cut two flanges from 1/4 aluminum plate. For the header I started with 1 inch .045 wall aluminum tub and cut twenty degree wedges out of the pipe (but not all the full way through). This allowed me to easly bend it. Once I had all the cuts I strung bailing wire through the header and twisted it to hold all the wedges tight and then TIG welded each cut point to make the header solid again. Finally I placed a 1/32 plywood shim between the motor and the flange, in the airframe to line up the flanges and tacked the flanges to the header. The wood acts as an insulator so you don't overheat the motor cylinder. After tacking I removed the header and finished welding the flange. The headers look very nice but have a series of welds where each of the wedges were cut. I would of bent them, but it is almost impossible to find a tubing bending with reasonable cost to bend 1 inch tubing with the tight radiuses that are required.
Non of the DA flanges will fit without modification. DA has their bolts on the same centerline, BME has stagered the bolts to the corners. The BME exhaust flange is much larger than the DA and fits a 1inch tube easily without having to smash the end into a rectangle to fit the port. I have seen that K&S does now offer flanges, bends and straight pieces in stainless steel that can be brazed together. Last time I talked with Don at Don's hobbies, he was working on getting these in stock for BME owners.
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
Leigh-I have already commented in another thread about cause/effect.
I had mine sent in for some work once, it only took 9 days to have the work done and the engine returned.
I do agree that Keith is hard to get a hold of but he has always returned my e-mails within 1 day.
I know how I would feel if I where in your shoes, there is no excuse for lack of communication in a business customer relationship.
I had mine sent in for some work once, it only took 9 days to have the work done and the engine returned.
I do agree that Keith is hard to get a hold of but he has always returned my e-mails within 1 day.
I know how I would feel if I where in your shoes, there is no excuse for lack of communication in a business customer relationship.
ORIGINAL: Leigh R/C
I have had nothing but trouble with my BME 110x.I was hoping to report good thing about this engine
it looked like a beast. The people that say they are tested before they leave the factory that is crap in my case anyway.
The first thing was the timing was it was set to 110dergs BTDC no way that would start.
Once we had set the timing to 27derg BTDC we got it started. No. 2 we started with the carbie needle at factory settings
Petrol was dripping from the bottom of the carbie at idle.
Keith said it is the diaphragm and it was. We finely got the idle running ok No. 3 then we move to the high end big problems here.
The engine started to sag after 3 minutes of running. So we shut it down (lean run) so we adjusted the high a qtr turn out and tried again
After 3 minutes same thing. We ended up with the high out 3 and qtr turns out and still the same. You guys can the the sums on how many times it has been run. After stripping another wooden prop that’s another story. I noted that it felt slightly ruff when I turned the hub. I took the mufflers off and now the pistons are scored.
This was all done on the ground test no cowl was on the aircraft and never got to fly. Dose anyone know how to tune an engine without running it?
Now the engine is sent back to Keith at my cost. It has been nearly 4 weeks Keith has had the engine emailing Keith and waiting for a reply is like waiting for grass to grow. However, I got a reply this morning he said it is not covered by warranty and it is going to cost me $300.00 US for the repairs + shipping. I see what people say about the service now.(you live and learn)
I think if the engine were tested at the factory; I would not be having all these Problems. For those people how will ask what prop etc.
26.x10 3w
32:1 just for run in
Stock mufflers
I have had nothing but trouble with my BME 110x.I was hoping to report good thing about this engine
it looked like a beast. The people that say they are tested before they leave the factory that is crap in my case anyway.
The first thing was the timing was it was set to 110dergs BTDC no way that would start.
Once we had set the timing to 27derg BTDC we got it started. No. 2 we started with the carbie needle at factory settings
Petrol was dripping from the bottom of the carbie at idle.
Keith said it is the diaphragm and it was. We finely got the idle running ok No. 3 then we move to the high end big problems here.
The engine started to sag after 3 minutes of running. So we shut it down (lean run) so we adjusted the high a qtr turn out and tried again
After 3 minutes same thing. We ended up with the high out 3 and qtr turns out and still the same. You guys can the the sums on how many times it has been run. After stripping another wooden prop that’s another story. I noted that it felt slightly ruff when I turned the hub. I took the mufflers off and now the pistons are scored.
This was all done on the ground test no cowl was on the aircraft and never got to fly. Dose anyone know how to tune an engine without running it?
Now the engine is sent back to Keith at my cost. It has been nearly 4 weeks Keith has had the engine emailing Keith and waiting for a reply is like waiting for grass to grow. However, I got a reply this morning he said it is not covered by warranty and it is going to cost me $300.00 US for the repairs + shipping. I see what people say about the service now.(you live and learn)
I think if the engine were tested at the factory; I would not be having all these Problems. For those people how will ask what prop etc.
26.x10 3w
32:1 just for run in
Stock mufflers
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
Well . .to satisfy RC-ign. . HERE I AM. . . .
Just browsing through the forum, glad to see you are having fun with the 110 Xcellheli.
I've done a couple of threads in the past concerning canister setups for the 110, and what kind of power I was getting. I'm currently flying a 40% Composite-ARF Extra using the BME110 and 'LL' Pefa canisters with 3 inch headers. Power is really up there, over 7050 rpm with a Mejzlik 28-10, so keep playing with the needles and give the engine about 10 gallons of break-in mix before you switch to synthetic. Most people are seeing in the 6800+ range after the engine is fully broken in. I HIGHLY recommend Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil mixed at 80:1 ratio, and PREMIUM gas of you are running canisters, since the better scavenging wil lead to higher pressure inside the combustion chamber which can lead to detonation.
I've used the same setup on two other Composite-Arf 40% Extras, one came in at 35 lbs, the other at 33.5, and the engine flew them pretty well, though you were on the power a lot more than with a 150. Others have used the same setup and plane, and shown just how potent the little 110 is. I've also put this little nuclear reactor on a 2.6m Composite EXtra, which came in at 25.5 lbs. . the term ROCKET comes to mind. . just a ball of fun to fly.
I'm finishing out one of the BME Aircraft 37% ultimates at the moment, for another guy in my club. Expect to see the plane at Joe Nall this year, as BME Aircraft has sponsored him to demo the plane and fly it in IMAC competition this season.
Best of luck with the engine!!!
Just browsing through the forum, glad to see you are having fun with the 110 Xcellheli.
I've done a couple of threads in the past concerning canister setups for the 110, and what kind of power I was getting. I'm currently flying a 40% Composite-ARF Extra using the BME110 and 'LL' Pefa canisters with 3 inch headers. Power is really up there, over 7050 rpm with a Mejzlik 28-10, so keep playing with the needles and give the engine about 10 gallons of break-in mix before you switch to synthetic. Most people are seeing in the 6800+ range after the engine is fully broken in. I HIGHLY recommend Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil mixed at 80:1 ratio, and PREMIUM gas of you are running canisters, since the better scavenging wil lead to higher pressure inside the combustion chamber which can lead to detonation.
I've used the same setup on two other Composite-Arf 40% Extras, one came in at 35 lbs, the other at 33.5, and the engine flew them pretty well, though you were on the power a lot more than with a 150. Others have used the same setup and plane, and shown just how potent the little 110 is. I've also put this little nuclear reactor on a 2.6m Composite EXtra, which came in at 25.5 lbs. . the term ROCKET comes to mind. . just a ball of fun to fly.
I'm finishing out one of the BME Aircraft 37% ultimates at the moment, for another guy in my club. Expect to see the plane at Joe Nall this year, as BME Aircraft has sponsored him to demo the plane and fly it in IMAC competition this season.
Best of luck with the engine!!!
#24
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RE: BME 110 Xtreme first impressions
I just bought the original prototype BME 110 engine and the prototype BME Ultimate from Todd Blose yesterday. I flew it today. All I can say about the BME 110 is... GOD ALMIGHTY what an engine! I mean that respectfully but truthfully.
The Ultimate weighs about 27 pounds and the BME 110 power with a 27x10 is in a different class in power than the DA100 or the 3W106. The power it put out is just ridiculous, I believe I can finally say I bought the best product imaginable in its class. Plus its light as a feather and it ran COOL. This is not a NEW engine, its the protoype so it has a lot of flights on it but it starts instantly and runs like a sewing machine.
What was really jaw dropping and proved its muscle to me was the authority with which it performed a KE loop. The upline of the loops was incredibly crisp and it climbed with absolutely no deceleration. Whatever speed I began the loop with is the speed I had at the top of the loop. Massive and I mean MASSIVE power for its displacement and weight. It is an absolute rocket on a 27-28# plane.
I will never buy any other engine in this size class unless someone can prove to me that I can get more power with something else.
The Ultimate weighs about 27 pounds and the BME 110 power with a 27x10 is in a different class in power than the DA100 or the 3W106. The power it put out is just ridiculous, I believe I can finally say I bought the best product imaginable in its class. Plus its light as a feather and it ran COOL. This is not a NEW engine, its the protoype so it has a lot of flights on it but it starts instantly and runs like a sewing machine.
What was really jaw dropping and proved its muscle to me was the authority with which it performed a KE loop. The upline of the loops was incredibly crisp and it climbed with absolutely no deceleration. Whatever speed I began the loop with is the speed I had at the top of the loop. Massive and I mean MASSIVE power for its displacement and weight. It is an absolute rocket on a 27-28# plane.
I will never buy any other engine in this size class unless someone can prove to me that I can get more power with something else.