famousdave

My Feedback: (61)

I have seen a lot of posts lately about troubles with G-26 "out of the box" ...so here are a few tips that hopefully will save you some frustration:

The G-26 is an excellent and powerful small engine. Don't put it on a 3D plane though and expect it to do great things. It is a great engine for a scale slow flyer like a Monocoupe or Cub, and it will RIP a Ultra Stik Lite around the sky like nothing you have seen. I would not recommend it for an extra, cap, or edge however..

That said, these engines should run great out of the box. Here are a few common problems I have found with the 3 G-26's I have - most of the issues came with the "accessories"


1> Zenoah includes this cool air horn to aid with airflow in the cowl .. however the bolts included are too long - they bottomed out one the engine block - this would not allow the carb to be tightened fully to the phenolic block. As are result the engine ran really rough, died on throttle transition and would not idle. I had to shorten the screws 1/8 inch and then proper torque was achieved. The engine ran fine afterward.

2> The G-23 had some complaints in that it was hard to connect to linkage so Zenoah included a black phenolic carb block that would allow the carb to be moved 90 degrees to facilitate easier linkage installation on some planes. Problem is the vacuum port in the black (90*) phenolic block was drilled wrong and it would not match up with the carb or gasket. The result was the engine would not start or run. Basically - the carb was not pumping fuel. The engine would start under full choke, but still would not run. I fixed mine by drilling a new passage in the black block and plugging the incorrect one.. it was a hassle to say the least and required a good degree of precision..

3> I used 2 out of the 3 engines I purchased out of the box - i.e no air horn, no black carb block, etc. They both dead sticked when the carb came loose in flight. I pulled the carb and the tan phenolic block was loose. I pulled it off, and used locktite red on the phenolic block and carb bolts. Not a single problem since and that was 100's of flights ago... I locktite'd my third engine automatically when I cut the bolts and drilled the block...

4> Needle settings out of the box were way off... close the needles and then re-open to 1.5 turns. Engine will start and run fine. Depending on altitude and temp, you may have to open the needles more to get your engine to produce power and idle right....

bottom line - this is a very easy engine to get to run right - if it is giving you problems - it will be one of the 4 items above....

DP

igotfish2

awesome man....just awesome...thanks for this info.
i was beginning to wonder if i could ever get my new g26 to start in this lifetime...

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks desertpig,

Hoping to stay on the subject:

- Did you use the black carb stack with G26 Ultra Sitck set up??
- What about the vent hole on the G26 carb?? vent to fuse, rotate 90*, cover??

Mufflers, I started off with a Slimline pitts and the G26 just barked and spooled like a Hemi ... a little loud for a couple members, so I switched to a Bisson, nice and quite now. But I lost around 400 RPMs and that quick snap. Not sure what to do. I did re-adjust high & low needles, not much help.

regards, zz

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Factory needle settingh are wrong ? I don't know who designs the carb blocks for Horizon, they need to do another..
My conversions use a 3/8 thick G10 block mounted with 5mm flathead screws, no leak..
A customer had a problem with the air in the cowl, put a tube on the cover with a line into the firewall, end of problem..I gues my conversions will come with the tube installed...
My block is thin so if the carb arm they supply is on the bottom it hits the ignition coil..Conversions move the coil to behind the cylinder where the source coil was..
The Bisson must be more restricted..Sometimes cutting of the rounded ends will get the rpm back without too much noise..

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

DP--I have to disagree a little. Put a RCIGN1 lightened 26 on a 3w extra-fun all up wt at 10.5 lbs with 80"ws and 1200sq.in.+. It will 3D just fine. Much better than I

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

desert pig, I bought a Taylor-craft with a Zenoah G26 in it, which is now toothpicks due to a stall on takeoff, anyhow I am remounting the engines in a Great Planes GS Chipmunk and cant get the Carb to clear the cowl. WHat in god's name is that "INSULATOR" that seats the carb? Why is almost 3/4" thick? The intake port on the carb side of this "Insulator"is round then it exits as a rectangle into the cylinder. Can't see why it needs to be that thick? Why would you want to add extra distance for the fuel to travel before it gets to the explosion zone?

I am walking over to my band saw after I finish this and am tempted to slice the thing in half! BTW This will be it's first time out with a Slimline Pitts style Muffler, the engine did not suffer at all in the crash, in fact it only has about an hour of run time on it. Any comments I would appreciate greatly. Mikel-T ....the T is not for Taylorcraft!!!!

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Mike---Contact RCIGN1 here on RCU or his business rcingitions.com. He can provide at a very low cost a spacer/insulator the is very thing and will rotate your carb so you do not need all those bell cranks.

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

RTK: Man I just love RCU, thanks very much RTK, remember when there was no internet......

Mikel-T

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Heck, I remember when the pc computer wasn't even invented We used to type with onion skin paper or use a lot of white out.
Sure is nice, the internet.....

zeng62

My G-26 rus strong, I have it on a Lanier 1/4 scale Extra 300L. It pull the 14 lb airplane verticle out of sight.
Metal can muffler w/ 2 x .700 id stacks.
.005 paper base gasket.
18-6W APC prop-------8800-9000rpm's.

ham870

My Feedback: (209)

Can anyone recommend a good smoke muffler for the G26. I plan to send my engine off to RCINGNITION as soon as it arrives. The engine is going in a GP Super Stearman so I prefer something other that a pitts style muffler due to clearance. Thanks.

ryan@ddm

The thinner base gaskets are an excellent upgrade for this motor. Have you considered using a reuseable copper one for a better seal?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Dale Abell at abellrc.com

Nauset

I have a few questions about the G26 setup.
The first question is about the phenolic carb block you used on the G26. I tried the black one supplied in the box but it turns the carb so the control arm is parallel to the firewall so I put the tan block back on and the arm is now perpendicular to the firewall which seems to be a better position to connect a push rod. Did you need to connect a bell-crank linkage with the black carb block?
The next thing is the nylon control arm that came in the box with instructions to pull the metal control arm off with a pair of pliers. Do you guys use the stock metal control arm or the nylon one? It looks as if pulling off the metal one with pliers would damage the throttle shaft.

Thanks,
Nauset

TimR-RCU

I can -

There is a gentleman in the RCU marketplace selling mufflers that he custom makes out of FL. He made one for me that works great on my G26 in a H9 taylorcraft. Look for the guy that is in FL, and ships for free.

Tim

TimR-RCU

I've got a G26 on an USL. Nothing but problems with deadsticks when at idle. I tried leaning the low end, richening the low end, blah blah blah -

Vented the carb to the fuse and it works perfect. That was the problem for me.

Tim

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

My first gasser and I have the great planes kill switch, how do I hook it up and kill the engine from the radio? on my two stroke I pull the trainer switch with the engine at idle and it drops the throttle to kill...how does it work on my G26?

Maybe I should ask how you hook up the throttle linkage to the kill switch?

Nauset

Hi Tim,
Can you give a description of how you vented the carb to the fuse. I will be setting up a G26 and I'm a little foggy as to what needs to be done.
Thanks!

TimR-RCU

Sure!

I first searched here and found some photos of how others had done it - then I went and did it sorta like some of the pictures.

1) I removed the carb plate that has the small hole in it. On my setup this was facing the prop. I enlarged the hole that was already in it to a size that would fit a piece of copper tubing I had laying around. The copper tubing was from an old fuel tank.
2) I soldered a half of the piece of tubing to the hole in the carb plate.
3) I used a dremel to clean up the inside of the plate.
4) I drilled a hole in the side of the fuse about an inch behind the firewall and "Goop"-ed the rest of the piece of tubing to that.
5) Connected the two with a piece of neoprene fuel tubing.

Done.

Tim

Nauset

Tim,
Thanks for the info. I will look around for some pics as well.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

This is not a G-26 but the same deal, maybe it will help. I ran bolt through the brass tube and the hole in the carb plate, tightened it down so no solder could get to the inside of the plate. Then I soldered it as you see with no cleanup on the inside. The red gunk you see is where I plugged a couple of smaller holes with putty. I picked up the clear tubing from the AutoZone near where I live; I just wanted something larger than the tubing but I doubt that was needed. By the way, be sure to remove the plate from the carb before you do the soldering.

Larry

Nauset

Thanks Larry,
That clears up the issue.
Greg

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

---------------


If your prop is severely scuffed or broken after the crash, check out the crankshaft's runout. Better to catch it and correct it before you run the engine again.

Sorry to hear about the loss of your model.

Those selling gas conversion engines for modelling usage should include the diaphgram cover vent nipple (installed) with the engine when delivered. Modellers should not have to perform bellcrank installations or vent nipple installations unless the engine is sold as a kit.

oistein

My Feedback: (1)

I just wanted to add that the Zenoah delivered by Tony Clark does not suffer these issues mentioned in the first post. He is selling what he calls Zenoah Titan and he give a 10 year warranty. I just installed the motor in the airframe and haven't tuch anything.

laryboy

My Feedback: (2)

does tony clark have a web sits ?