Tesax RC Drastik 120
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Texas RC 120 DRASTIK
A number of years ago I had a Hangar Nine Ultra Stik. I loved it but lost it during a low altitude maneuver when the engine suddenly quit. I was looking for something like it when I ran across the Pulse 125. Which being a great buy and is approx. the same price as the Drastik. While it has many flaws, all of which can be improved upon, like the Drastik it is a great plane but if you don't modify the weak areas you will be constantly rebuilding it. You cannot make them crash proof but they have to be able to withstand the rigors of an occasional hard landing. The Pulse although being a low wing flies about as good as a Stik. When I discovered the Texas RC Drastik was a clone of the original Ultra Stik I had to have one. I still like the way a Stik flies so I had to add one to my hangar. Out comes my credit card and soon a huge box arrives at my door. Now a word of caution here. This is not to just to point out flaws and weaknesses but just a note to inform others of what I found in assembling and flying mine and my experiences. I wrote a similar letter on the Pulse which can be read on RC Universe.
Upon opening the Drastik it looks great. Shelf paper covering is flawless, no shipping damage because of extra care and cost in packaging. So I began to assemble and to see what I had paid for. A friend had purchased a 60 size Drastik and while he was getting the bugs out of it a few weak areas began to emerge. Such as the plywood was very soft, did I say soft, OK, and it separates very easily. Not only that the blind nuts will bore right thru the ply. Also when you tighten up the bolts the blind nuts will be pulled right thru the wood. So I decided to back it up with 1/8th hard ply behind the firewall, in the landing gear area, and under the wing bolt down plate.
Next I did not want to rely on just glue to hold the horizontal stab on so I decided to use a Dubro tail wheel assembly and used a very long front screw in it and let in go up into the vert. stab. And then another one further forward up into the vert. Stab.
Be sure to add extra glue to all joints you can get to. The hot glue they use is OK but it is used marginally. The two piece wing is great if you have a small vehicle but if you have a larger vehicle that can handle the size glue that sucker together, it makes it more rigid and easier to keep up with all the pieces. All kits and Arf's usually have marginal hardware and this is no exception. Most people who have been building and flying for a while have their own mindset of what kind of hardware and linkages to use. However if you want to use what comes with the plane it will suffice.
Next upon installing the engine, an O.S. 160, I discovered it would be extremely nose heavy so all the servo's had to be moved to the rear including making a mount in front of the vert. stab for the rudder servo. Also I had to move the battery as far back as I could so I had to make a pocket for the battery in the fuse area right behind the wing bolts.
I did not like the small soft metric wing screws so I substituted 3/16th's Allen head screws for wing bolts. I used std. servo's for the ailerons but used metal gear Futaba's for the elev. I do not like the open nose look typical of Stik's so I built a nose for mine and it really improves the looks plus streamlines the airflow around the plane and adds only a few ozs.
Another weak area I almost missed and if I had not caught it the plane would have broken in half. The wing bay area of the fuse right behind the wing former F-2, and right behind the landing gear plate, is very weak. Mine was broken and I had not had any hard landings. So don't know when it happened. Not much material holding the plane together here…Better check this area out really good.
Hits:
Two piece wing.
Flies great.
Assembly is easy.
Aileron servo's installed inside the wing.
Light, for a plane with no Balsa. Mine weights 12 lb.- 8 oz's. Ready to fly with nose and 8 oz's of ballast.
O.S. 160-18/6 prop will hover like a big bird.
Removable top hatch cover.
Extra care and packaging in shipping.
Pinned hinges.
Precut hinges slots.
Misses:
Shelf paper covering.
Weak landing gear.
Cheap plastic wheels.
Soft plywood.
Token hardware.
These are just my experiences with the plane and yours and your requirements may be different. Overall I really like the plane and it will be among my favorite all time planes. Bobby Day 06-21-2012
A number of years ago I had a Hangar Nine Ultra Stik. I loved it but lost it during a low altitude maneuver when the engine suddenly quit. I was looking for something like it when I ran across the Pulse 125. Which being a great buy and is approx. the same price as the Drastik. While it has many flaws, all of which can be improved upon, like the Drastik it is a great plane but if you don't modify the weak areas you will be constantly rebuilding it. You cannot make them crash proof but they have to be able to withstand the rigors of an occasional hard landing. The Pulse although being a low wing flies about as good as a Stik. When I discovered the Texas RC Drastik was a clone of the original Ultra Stik I had to have one. I still like the way a Stik flies so I had to add one to my hangar. Out comes my credit card and soon a huge box arrives at my door. Now a word of caution here. This is not to just to point out flaws and weaknesses but just a note to inform others of what I found in assembling and flying mine and my experiences. I wrote a similar letter on the Pulse which can be read on RC Universe.
Upon opening the Drastik it looks great. Shelf paper covering is flawless, no shipping damage because of extra care and cost in packaging. So I began to assemble and to see what I had paid for. A friend had purchased a 60 size Drastik and while he was getting the bugs out of it a few weak areas began to emerge. Such as the plywood was very soft, did I say soft, OK, and it separates very easily. Not only that the blind nuts will bore right thru the ply. Also when you tighten up the bolts the blind nuts will be pulled right thru the wood. So I decided to back it up with 1/8th hard ply behind the firewall, in the landing gear area, and under the wing bolt down plate.
Next I did not want to rely on just glue to hold the horizontal stab on so I decided to use a Dubro tail wheel assembly and used a very long front screw in it and let in go up into the vert. stab. And then another one further forward up into the vert. Stab.
Be sure to add extra glue to all joints you can get to. The hot glue they use is OK but it is used marginally. The two piece wing is great if you have a small vehicle but if you have a larger vehicle that can handle the size glue that sucker together, it makes it more rigid and easier to keep up with all the pieces. All kits and Arf's usually have marginal hardware and this is no exception. Most people who have been building and flying for a while have their own mindset of what kind of hardware and linkages to use. However if you want to use what comes with the plane it will suffice.
Next upon installing the engine, an O.S. 160, I discovered it would be extremely nose heavy so all the servo's had to be moved to the rear including making a mount in front of the vert. stab for the rudder servo. Also I had to move the battery as far back as I could so I had to make a pocket for the battery in the fuse area right behind the wing bolts.
I did not like the small soft metric wing screws so I substituted 3/16th's Allen head screws for wing bolts. I used std. servo's for the ailerons but used metal gear Futaba's for the elev. I do not like the open nose look typical of Stik's so I built a nose for mine and it really improves the looks plus streamlines the airflow around the plane and adds only a few ozs.
Another weak area I almost missed and if I had not caught it the plane would have broken in half. The wing bay area of the fuse right behind the wing former F-2, and right behind the landing gear plate, is very weak. Mine was broken and I had not had any hard landings. So don't know when it happened. Not much material holding the plane together here…Better check this area out really good.
Hits:
Two piece wing.
Flies great.
Assembly is easy.
Aileron servo's installed inside the wing.
Light, for a plane with no Balsa. Mine weights 12 lb.- 8 oz's. Ready to fly with nose and 8 oz's of ballast.
O.S. 160-18/6 prop will hover like a big bird.
Removable top hatch cover.
Extra care and packaging in shipping.
Pinned hinges.
Precut hinges slots.
Misses:
Shelf paper covering.
Weak landing gear.
Cheap plastic wheels.
Soft plywood.
Token hardware.
These are just my experiences with the plane and yours and your requirements may be different. Overall I really like the plane and it will be among my favorite all time planes. Bobby Day 06-21-2012
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Good review.
I've noted the Drastick and have wondered how it compares to the Ultra Stick Lite and your offering confirms that it might be more comparable to the original Ultra Stick 120 that weighed about 2.5 lbs more than the USL.
But.... that conclusion might be unfair. If it were given a 1.20 engine, it actually might come in somewhere between the weight of the Ultra Stick Lite and the original Ultra Stick 120?
Many fliers want a stick that will do unlimited vertical and the weight difference between the Lite and Original required the Original to be stronger powered, which itself started the weight escalation and the nimbleness factor gets lost or diminished.
An USL even with a gas engine would come in under ten pounds and this with the extra two servos for the quad wing and firewall and gear mount beefing. And it required only an 8 oz fuel load so was considerably more nimble than the Original.
I've noted the Drastick and have wondered how it compares to the Ultra Stick Lite and your offering confirms that it might be more comparable to the original Ultra Stick 120 that weighed about 2.5 lbs more than the USL.
But.... that conclusion might be unfair. If it were given a 1.20 engine, it actually might come in somewhere between the weight of the Ultra Stick Lite and the original Ultra Stick 120?
Many fliers want a stick that will do unlimited vertical and the weight difference between the Lite and Original required the Original to be stronger powered, which itself started the weight escalation and the nimbleness factor gets lost or diminished.
An USL even with a gas engine would come in under ten pounds and this with the extra two servos for the quad wing and firewall and gear mount beefing. And it required only an 8 oz fuel load so was considerably more nimble than the Original.
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I have one and agree will all your comments except I would add the crappy instruction manual to the list of misses.
I do really like this airplane but wish I could stop crashing it...once due to a radio issue then again after engine quit just after takeoff. 2.6 flights altogether.
The first rebuild was a hard crash and led me to rebuild alot of the wing and most of the fuselage. I replaced most of the covering with Koverall (everything except the ailerons and empennage). The current rebuild will be from the wing leading edge forward only. Later (when I stop crashing it) I'll recover the ailerons and tail group and add some cool trim!
Overall the Drastik flies great, at least for me I'm not a 3D flyer. With a couple of the durability/structural issues you mentioned resolved, it's a great airplane. And I believe the price is lower than other similar stiks and a definite option for the unavailable UltraStik 120.
Dave
I do really like this airplane but wish I could stop crashing it...once due to a radio issue then again after engine quit just after takeoff. 2.6 flights altogether.
The first rebuild was a hard crash and led me to rebuild alot of the wing and most of the fuselage. I replaced most of the covering with Koverall (everything except the ailerons and empennage). The current rebuild will be from the wing leading edge forward only. Later (when I stop crashing it) I'll recover the ailerons and tail group and add some cool trim!
Overall the Drastik flies great, at least for me I'm not a 3D flyer. With a couple of the durability/structural issues you mentioned resolved, it's a great airplane. And I believe the price is lower than other similar stiks and a definite option for the unavailable UltraStik 120.
Dave
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To dabrown: Sorry about your bad luck crashing your Stik. It is a great flying plane and your bad luck has nothing to do with the flying capabilities of the plane. As a matter of fact the first 15 or so flights on mine were dead stick landings. The 160 motor I started out with was worn out and I was not aware that it was in such bad condition. So on my first flight, it's maiden voage, WALA a motor outage. O/S. parts are expensive so after a new ring and main bearing back to the flying field I go with problem fixed expecting a happy flight. Wrong...Dead engine. I raised the tank as far as I could and replumbed the tank. Back to the fied. Dead engine again. The engine would not pull fuel from the tank even with stock muffler. So I installed a Perry regulator pump. Great I got it this time. Back to the field up in the air and after just a few minutes...DEAD again....Fustrated I asked myself,' What's wrong with this motor??? Went through it all again, found nothing. Fustrated big time. Back to the field up in the air again, perfect, landed with the engine running..this time. However the next few flights were dead again... This thing was really trying me but I knew better than to even think about giving up. So brain drain time again... Finally it dawned on me I had installed a glow plug that was not an O.S. plug, a new one but not an O.S. So with a new O.S. #8 plug installed back to the flield again and Alas. Got it. Finally was able to enjoy my new plane. Now it is about my favorite plane to take out....Don't give up keep at it all your problems will go away.....B.Day
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B.
I've had numerous dead sticks with my Saito 180. I think what it wants is lots of fuel, so if I try to lean it or if the muffler pressure isn't good (like using a Pitts style muffler) or the fuel lines aren't righteous then it quits, usually at the most inopportune time. I'm pretty sure it's not the glow plug and I have a glow driver on it. One more chance for the Saito, and that may be it. I bought it used so it may be a case of buying somebody else's problems.
Dave
I've had numerous dead sticks with my Saito 180. I think what it wants is lots of fuel, so if I try to lean it or if the muffler pressure isn't good (like using a Pitts style muffler) or the fuel lines aren't righteous then it quits, usually at the most inopportune time. I'm pretty sure it's not the glow plug and I have a glow driver on it. One more chance for the Saito, and that may be it. I bought it used so it may be a case of buying somebody else's problems.
Dave
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DA. Satio 180's are very thirsty. You have to give them what they want, and that's a lot of fuel. Remember that as the level in the tank drops it's harder for the engine to pull the fuel. So if you start out a little lean then about at half a tank it will starve for fuel get hot and quit. The best way to fix a fuel problem is to install a pump. That is provided that all other problem are corrrected.The perry oscillating pump [works off engine vibration] works very good. I ran one own my 160 for years and it cured my flame outs...
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I just picked up the 40 size drastick . i agree that the Manuel could have been better, also the cap screws for the wings holes were not pre drilled so i had to get creative with getting them drilled and lined up. set mine up for electric on 4 cells.
3 flights so far and it flys great.
3 flights so far and it flys great.
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I'm looking to get the 40 size and also looking to go 4s... glad to hear she flys great! what's your AUW? also can the wing be easily moded to have flaps? I've been trying to find pics of the wing top side to determine if possible but no luck, do you think this is possible? would you be able to post a photo of your wing?
thanks,
-Roberto
thanks,
-Roberto
ORIGINAL: scott36
I just picked up the 40 size drastick . i agree that the Manuel could have been better, also the cap screws for the wings holes were not pre drilled so i had to get creative with getting them drilled and lined up. set mine up for electric on 4 cells.
3 flights so far and it flys great.
I just picked up the 40 size drastick . i agree that the Manuel could have been better, also the cap screws for the wings holes were not pre drilled so i had to get creative with getting them drilled and lined up. set mine up for electric on 4 cells.
3 flights so far and it flys great.
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iam not sure of the AUW sorry i dont have scale , have not used flaps but the boys at the feild said i may want to try flaperons tho , but the G32 hauls this plane really good with almost unlimited vertical , hope this pic helps out. scott
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ORIGINAL: scott36
iam not sure of the AUW sorry i dont have scale , have not used flaps but the boys at the feild said i may want to try flaperons tho , but the G32 hauls this plane really good with almost unlimited vertical , hope this pic helps out. scott
iam not sure of the AUW sorry i dont have scale , have not used flaps but the boys at the feild said i may want to try flaperons tho , but the G32 hauls this plane really good with almost unlimited vertical , hope this pic helps out. scott
Thanks for taking the time to snap a shot of the wing.... this is exactly what I was looking for! looks like flaps are not going to be an option for this wing, I've already commited to going the quad flap route as Ijust picked up a 7 channel rx , I know it's smaller and a bit more expensive but I now got my eye on the Ultra Stick 25e. The G32 sounds like it's a good match for this airframe, I'm gonna be using a Hacker A30-10XL with a 13x6.5 APC on 4s for the US 25e, I've ran this setup on another 3.1LB AUW airframe and that thing was a rocket!!!
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I have the ultra stick 25e also, have mine on a very good 3s setup but the 4s setup will be fast , love the sticks, iam still thinking i may get the hanger 9 40 stick when they get in stock just to have it.
let me know if you do get the drastick, i have a 13x8 prop on it move it very well, 13x6 would be better thrust for it.
let me know if you do get the drastick, i have a 13x8 prop on it move it very well, 13x6 would be better thrust for it.
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Well i orded a 120 Drastick today , will use a 28cc Gas motor after a beef up on landing gear & firewall.I will try to setup for a (up to) 2meter glider tug, Will the drastick 120 handle it ok ??Also what's shelf paper as a covering?. Allan.
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Allen iam not sure what shelf paper is, heard the guys at the club talk about it tho, sounds like its a togher kind of covering.
never seen of did any thing with a tug plane either, sorry.
never seen of did any thing with a tug plane either, sorry.
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I originated this thread and I thought I would share how this plane has evolved. The original pictures show it after I had scratch built a nose for it and added wheel pants. But after flying it for a while as usual the shelf paper covering became a problem keeping it on. Originally I knew this would have to be replaced so the time came to replace it.. Getting the old covering off is a real problem. Everyone to his own methods but I found that the worst thing you can do is to try to pull iit off. This makes it seperate and leaves the coloring stuck on the wood. Bad mistake. What you want to do is to use a large heating iron and pull it off gently as it heats up . This works pretty good but there will always be some that will not come off. I then used acetone and steel wool to remove the rest.
With that done I moved into the modifications I wanted to do. First I made a battery hatch in the rear, I used an existing opening and just made a hatch as this was to use it's own weight to balance it, I needed weight in the rear. Then I used 1/2 " tri stock around the tail to smooth out airflow around the tail secton plus I also made fillets around the wing saddle area.
One problem I have run into with this plane is I have to run a small amount of down trim in it. As to date I have tried everything I can think of except changing the incencedence of the wing. As this would not be an easy task involving cutting up an already nice plane NO,NO not going to do that, I can live with it...It is balanced properly.I have tried adding more down thrust, making it more tail heavy but no avail this is the way it wants to fly.... A fun plane to fly especially with that 160 up front . A real hot rod...
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![](http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1930593)
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With that done I moved into the modifications I wanted to do. First I made a battery hatch in the rear, I used an existing opening and just made a hatch as this was to use it's own weight to balance it, I needed weight in the rear. Then I used 1/2 " tri stock around the tail to smooth out airflow around the tail secton plus I also made fillets around the wing saddle area.
One problem I have run into with this plane is I have to run a small amount of down trim in it. As to date I have tried everything I can think of except changing the incencedence of the wing. As this would not be an easy task involving cutting up an already nice plane NO,NO not going to do that, I can live with it...It is balanced properly.I have tried adding more down thrust, making it more tail heavy but no avail this is the way it wants to fly.... A fun plane to fly especially with that 160 up front . A real hot rod...