flipinflopin

which cvd's are better

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170261670012

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370085239364

ludeman

Do you have the Buggy or the ST? I think the first ones you linked are for the buggy the other is for the ST.

flipinflopin

i have the ST...

Mamba Max

ive had good luck with GPM products and its half the price. if the others are atomic, toss em out now

revo_sbs

My Feedback: (23)

Whatever you do don't get the ATOMIC CVDS if you plan on running the ammo 28-35-3900. They are crap and only lasted for three packs and then the pin that goes through the cvd section wore out. I would go with the duratrax steel CVDS. They are more expensive but will last a lot longer.

catbutt

Avoid GPM at all costs. Quality is very hit and miss-some have good luck with them but most do not. This has been my experience, 50% ok, 50% crap. I have bought alloy knuckles and differential cases for my HPI MT2. I don't put alloy on my car unless I have to and these 2 areas are faulty on the MT2. The stock knuckles strip the screws and the stock diff had pot metal gears. Long story short, the knuckles worked out fine and I still use them. The diff cases, on the other hand, were awful and ate bearings left and right. I am back to using the stock plastic cases (happily)- the GPM alloy ones are in some landfill somewhere. In RC, as in most other cases, you get what you pay for. Buyer beware.

Snipin_Willy

Very true statement. If you're looking to get a part that will take a beating and not break it's best to pony up the cash for the good parts. Anyhow, your first parts you linked work because they are for the buggy. The second set will fit, but you're looking a pair of aluminum CVDs which I would not recommend. I'd spend a few more dollars and get the DTX threaded axle ones.