Berg Microstamp Receiver Info
#1
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Ispoke with the tech at Castle Creations today and discovered an undocumented feature of the Berg Microstamp 4L receiver that all users should be aware of.
I lost a plane and engine yesterday due to loss of signal. The receiver had only been flying a few months and the battery was fully charged. After the crash I had absolutely no reception and the LEDon the receiver was brighter than usual. I finally discovered that when I press hard on the crystal the LEDgoes back to dim and the receiver works again.
When I asked the tech about the difference between the dim LED vs. the bright LED he said that the LED indicated loss of signal, there is no bright or dim. The FAQon the Castle Creations web site says the same thing. The FAQalso states that it lights when frames are being rejected.
My receiver has always had the LED glow dim when powered on since I bought it last year. The tech said that the LED should either be on or off, not dim. I guess dim must mean that it is rejecting some frames but not enough to come on at full brightnes.
The LEDis visible through the blue shrink wrap on the side of the receiver opposite the label. To see the LED, just turn off your transmitter and it will light up to indicate loss of signal.
So I thought I'd let everyone know, if you've got a red light on your 4L, DON'TFLYIT!
Dave
I lost a plane and engine yesterday due to loss of signal. The receiver had only been flying a few months and the battery was fully charged. After the crash I had absolutely no reception and the LEDon the receiver was brighter than usual. I finally discovered that when I press hard on the crystal the LEDgoes back to dim and the receiver works again.
When I asked the tech about the difference between the dim LED vs. the bright LED he said that the LED indicated loss of signal, there is no bright or dim. The FAQon the Castle Creations web site says the same thing. The FAQalso states that it lights when frames are being rejected.
My receiver has always had the LED glow dim when powered on since I bought it last year. The tech said that the LED should either be on or off, not dim. I guess dim must mean that it is rejecting some frames but not enough to come on at full brightnes.
The LEDis visible through the blue shrink wrap on the side of the receiver opposite the label. To see the LED, just turn off your transmitter and it will light up to indicate loss of signal.
So I thought I'd let everyone know, if you've got a red light on your 4L, DON'TFLYIT!
Dave
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I just lost a 1/2a SureShark about 2 weeks ago. It was pretty cool, after rebuilding the right wing from the prior lockout (failsafe, plane was starting to do real large manuevers and on the pull-out from a loop it impacted the ground almost completely level). Well after rebuilding the wing and new film canister tank (they work great by the way) I put her back in the air. About the same amount of time, 5 minutes, into the flight I got lockout (failsafe). I was on the reverse of a split S and it went straight in from about 200 feet up rightinto a corn field. A real viking funeral, engine buried deep, the tail cross above the grave. Upon closer inspection I just need to rebuild the front of fuse and one wing. I have another Sure Shark kit that I will build after I figure out the bugs of these Berg recievers.
I believe that it is the crystal plug in socket that is causing the lock outs. I really like the Berg but I need to feel confident in these things. Mine is at Berg right now, waiting for the diagnosis.
Honker1
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ORIGINAL: Honker1
I just lost a 1/2a SureShark about 2 weeks ago. It was pretty cool, after rebuilding the right wing from the prior lockout (failsafe, plane was starting to do real large manuevers and on the pull-out from a loop it impacted the ground almost completely level). Well after rebuilding the wing and new film canister tank (they work great by the way) I put her back in the air. About the same amount of time, 5 minutes, into the flight I got lockout (failsafe). I was on the reverse of a split S and it went straight in from about 200 feet up right into a corn field. A real viking funeral, engine buried deep, the tail cross above the grave. Upon closer inspection I just need to rebuild the front of fuse and one wing. I have another Sure Shark kit that I will build after I figure out the bugs of these Berg recievers.
I believe that it is the crystal plug in socket that is causing the lock outs. I really like the Berg but I need to feel confident in these things. Mine is at Berg right now, waiting for the diagnosis.
Honker1
I just lost a 1/2a SureShark about 2 weeks ago. It was pretty cool, after rebuilding the right wing from the prior lockout (failsafe, plane was starting to do real large manuevers and on the pull-out from a loop it impacted the ground almost completely level). Well after rebuilding the wing and new film canister tank (they work great by the way) I put her back in the air. About the same amount of time, 5 minutes, into the flight I got lockout (failsafe). I was on the reverse of a split S and it went straight in from about 200 feet up right into a corn field. A real viking funeral, engine buried deep, the tail cross above the grave. Upon closer inspection I just need to rebuild the front of fuse and one wing. I have another Sure Shark kit that I will build after I figure out the bugs of these Berg recievers.
I believe that it is the crystal plug in socket that is causing the lock outs. I really like the Berg but I need to feel confident in these things. Mine is at Berg right now, waiting for the diagnosis.
Honker1
Mike D
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ORIGINAL: combatpigg
I would gladly have a permanently installed cystal.
I would gladly have a permanently installed cystal.
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I agree, but how to secure the crystal in? There is no space for soldering, a blob of silicone might do it, maybee some epoxy, heat shrink tubing, tape.
Any thoughts? Anyone, anyone......
Honker1
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ORIGINAL: Honker1
I agree, but how to secure the crystal in? There is no space for soldering, a blob of silicone might do it, maybee some epoxy, heat shrink tubing, tape.
Any thoughts? Anyone, anyone......
Honker1
I agree, but how to secure the crystal in? There is no space for soldering, a blob of silicone might do it, maybee some epoxy, heat shrink tubing, tape.
Any thoughts? Anyone, anyone......
Honker1
MIke D.
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Very interesting. And concerning . . . Bummer.
I have had excellent service from HiTec 555s. I have several with no bad experiences in several hundred flights.
But, I wanted a smaller unit and so have 3 or 4 Bergs standing by for use in the next projects.
I guess I will start out by making sure the LED is doing the proper thing and securing the crystal carefully.
I have had excellent service from HiTec 555s. I have several with no bad experiences in several hundred flights.
But, I wanted a smaller unit and so have 3 or 4 Bergs standing by for use in the next projects.
I guess I will start out by making sure the LED is doing the proper thing and securing the crystal carefully.
#12
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If you guys have Berg-4*DSP Micro Stamp recievers (Earlier German made models), the LED functions as a glitch counter:
1 flash = 1 event
2 flashes = 2-3 events
3 flashes = 4-7 events
4 flashes = 8-15 events
5 flashes = 16-31 events
6 flashes = 32-63 events
7 flashes = 64-127 events
More than 128 glitches and the LED will stay on continuously
Glitches are counted when the receiver counts invalid transmitter signals and unrecoverable frame errors in reception due to Loss of Signal and/or Interference.
The instructions also say that the antenna may be shortened down to 12" length as long as you are able to land from test flights with the LEDoff after test flights.
Hope this helps.
1 flash = 1 event
2 flashes = 2-3 events
3 flashes = 4-7 events
4 flashes = 8-15 events
5 flashes = 16-31 events
6 flashes = 32-63 events
7 flashes = 64-127 events
More than 128 glitches and the LED will stay on continuously
Glitches are counted when the receiver counts invalid transmitter signals and unrecoverable frame errors in reception due to Loss of Signal and/or Interference.
The instructions also say that the antenna may be shortened down to 12" length as long as you are able to land from test flights with the LEDoff after test flights.
Hope this helps.
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I was thinking that Hot melt may work for this.
ORIGINAL: Honker1
I agree, but how to secure the crystal in? There is no space for soldering, a blob of silicone might do it, maybee some epoxy, heat shrink tubing, tape.
Any thoughts? Anyone, anyone......
Honker1
I agree, but how to secure the crystal in? There is no space for soldering, a blob of silicone might do it, maybee some epoxy, heat shrink tubing, tape.
Any thoughts? Anyone, anyone......
Honker1
#15
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You know, the crystal in Futaba receivers are held in the same way, they're just pushed down into a socket.
I seriously doubt that the socket's grip on the crystal was the cause of my problem. Especially since the LED was partially illuminated all along
Dave
I seriously doubt that the socket's grip on the crystal was the cause of my problem. Especially since the LED was partially illuminated all along
Dave
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I don't know if the crystal is in the actual signal path, but it seems like a bad idea from an electronics standpoint to have it not soldered in.
OTOH, I've got a nice 35 year old amp / tuner that is built with all wire wrapped components, no solder anywhere.
OTOH, I've got a nice 35 year old amp / tuner that is built with all wire wrapped components, no solder anywhere.
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ORIGINAL: combatpigg
I don't know if the crystal is in the actual signal path, but it seems like a bad idea from an electronics standpoint to have it not soldered in.
OTOH, I've got a nice 35 year old amp / tuner that is built with all wire wrapped components, no solder anywhere.
I don't know if the crystal is in the actual signal path, but it seems like a bad idea from an electronics standpoint to have it not soldered in.
OTOH, I've got a nice 35 year old amp / tuner that is built with all wire wrapped components, no solder anywhere.
So is this only happening on small IC powered aircraft, i.e. excellent sources of high frequency vibration?
MJD
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Guys,
Almost all the 72 mhz receivers have a plug in crystal. It must work well since it has been done this way for so long. As far as I know, only the synthysized receivers do not have a plug in crystal.
Perhaps this is an isolated case or Burg may have a problem with their sockets. Ionly have one Burg stamp and it has always worked perfectly. I did not get more because Iuse two channels for my ailerons and the stamp is only four channel.
Wiggy
Almost all the 72 mhz receivers have a plug in crystal. It must work well since it has been done this way for so long. As far as I know, only the synthysized receivers do not have a plug in crystal.
Perhaps this is an isolated case or Burg may have a problem with their sockets. Ionly have one Burg stamp and it has always worked perfectly. I did not get more because Iuse two channels for my ailerons and the stamp is only four channel.
Wiggy
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ORIGINAL: Wiggy
Guys,
Almost all the 72 mhz receivers have a plug in crystal. It must work well since it has been done this way for so long. As far as I know, only the synthysized receivers do not have a plug in crystal.
Perhaps this is an isolated case or Burg may have a problem with their sockets. I only have one Burg stamp and it has always worked perfectly. I did not get more because I use two channels for my ailerons and the stamp is only four channel.
Wiggy
Guys,
Almost all the 72 mhz receivers have a plug in crystal. It must work well since it has been done this way for so long. As far as I know, only the synthysized receivers do not have a plug in crystal.
Perhaps this is an isolated case or Burg may have a problem with their sockets. I only have one Burg stamp and it has always worked perfectly. I did not get more because I use two channels for my ailerons and the stamp is only four channel.
Wiggy
MJD
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If you ever dissected a crystal there is a small piece of material that resembles mica suspended between the plug wires by two extremely small wires. When Ihave looked inside a bad crystal that was destroyed in a crash, the mica part was torn. I am very surprised the tiny support wires inside the can do not break.
Wiggy
Wiggy
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CP, here is a link to some information about how and why crystals work. It even has a picture of what Ibelieve is a Futaba crystal. I studied electornics many moons ago when the vacuum tube was still in use. My knowledge has faded greatly and been technologically displaced. Wiggy
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oscillator
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oscillator
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ORIGINAL: combatpigg
Wiggy, Interesting....I wonder how they build them for a certain freq?
Amazing....some folks in this World are still just learning how to use toilet paper and here we are trying to teach toy airplanes how to behave better..
Wiggy, Interesting....I wonder how they build them for a certain freq?
Amazing....some folks in this World are still just learning how to use toilet paper and here we are trying to teach toy airplanes how to behave better..
Crystals are cut to size, there are formulae for determining the resonant frequency of the crystal depending on the properties of the material and the orientation of the cut. I have a library of vintage radio electronics texts, maybe in there I can find how they are fine-tuned beyond the original cut as I haven't found that detail elsewhere yet. Perhaps they are cut very closely and are then screened and sorted according to specific frequency within the band..? We'll see.. interesting question. My dad would have known off the top of his head.
MJD