jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

I need to devise a throttle lever for a G-Mark .061. Anyone have any ideas or have one I can buy?

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Arn't they just a bit of bent metal?

jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

I don't know. There is a tubular reiever for a screw but I have never seen one of these engines before. If you have a thought I can PM some pictures to your email address.
Joe

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

My camera doesn't get that close... But it is a bent piece of metal. An OS might fit on the stub, screw size would be a common metric.

jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

Can anyone send me some close up pictures? If possible with the lever off of the carb.

Red Baron Mike

My Feedback: (287)

The throttle level is a straight, flat strip of thin gauge metal, about 1/8" wide and 1/2" long. There are 2-3 holes for the throttle linkage wire and a single hole at one end for the attachment screw to hold it to the carb barrel.

Mike

jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

Thank you Mike for the info. Does the screw hold it to the carb with out a lock washer of some kind? Do you know what size the screw is? I am going to restore the motor and can you tell me if the cylinder can be removed in a way similar to the way you remove a Cox cylinder?

ChicaWolverina

I've got one that's NOS, I could try and take some closeups of it for you?


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Tomasina

jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

If you could send me pictures to [email protected] along with a price. I can also can trade. Thank you.
Joe

Red Baron Mike

My Feedback: (287)

The setup is very similar to Cox. Remove the head with the 4 screws. Then use a wrench to remove the cylinder (THERE ARE WRENCH FLATS ON THE TOP OF THE CYLINDER). The piston/rod attachment is similar to Cox.

Mike

Dan Vincent

I have a picture of an early G-Mark .061 I sold on Ebay if thats the type you have.

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

Wow , that .061 Dan Vincent has is definately a variance model from mine. The muffler is totally diferent ( but nicer)from any I have or have seen.
I have two of these and they each have slightly diferent carbs on them. The one has a longer throat ( or velocity stack) on it , thats the only diference on my 2.
After 20 years of flying (off and on) my old one still runs strong!

martenson

I have a NIB Gmark and just wants to know how they runs.
Are they strong, easy to adjust, lasts long?

Thanks.

jsesere

My Feedback: (38)

The G-Mark is a great little engine. Good power for it's size, and will last you a long time if well maintained. Break it in exactly as described on the instruction sheet. Clean it, oil it and store indoors. Whenever you see spare parts grab what you may need in the future.
Good luck and have fun.

Take offs are optional, but landings are required.

Mr Cox

I don't know about the power though, it has a regular glowplug and it seems quite weak compared to a Norvel.
Mine has a sloppy conrod too...

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Here's a photo one one I owned. I never ran it and decided to sell it.[sm=confused.gif]

Red Baron Mike

My Feedback: (287)

Two different type of engines so why are you comparing them? The G-Mark, when properly maintained, will still be running strong long after all the Norvels are buried in landfills!

The piston/rod needs to be reset on the G-mark periodically, just like Cox engines. The Cox .049 tool works fine.

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

I just won one on the " neverfreebay" it is the uc version though ( without throttle) it looks like the crankcase is identical , so I hope my carb will just bolt onto it.</p>

But if anybody here hasone they would consider parting with , or sees one around the net that needs a good home..........................</p>

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

O.K. , I`m a little bit torqued about that oneI got on " neverfreebay"

It was listed as new in box.

It was obviously mounted up at least once , and would not spin freely. A really close look revealed it was just cleaned immaculately. The muffler was never mounted up , but it was definately ran and not cleaned internally.
Obvious signs , ring of varnish at the head , another where the piston was lodged in varnish.
Another bunch of varnish and gunk in the crankcase and all around the crank.

Time to soak it in wd4o for a week , then alcohol for a week etc , etc , ......................................

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Some engines varnish in the box new. Signs of running are quite obvious however. Acetone does wonders for castor sludge in minutes. I'm not sure what kind of plastic is used for the carb body so I removed it before treating my .03 with acetone last week.

build light

"It was obviously mounted up at least once , and would not spin freely. A really close look revealed it was just cleaned immaculately. The muffler was never mounted up , but it was definately ran and not cleaned internally."

I think this could be done easily and quickly with a can of CRC Brakleen or pretty much any spray carburetor cleaner.

Too bad there is such misrepresentation. Sorry for your loss Jaspur.

Robert

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

I`m not certain either , but I do know it is a softer plastic than say he coxteedee049 plastic tankmount. You didwell ,I`m not confident it would have held up well.
It has been a decade since I worked in the plastic factory , ( honestlyI did ) , but the plasticG-mark used is less costly , easier to melt down ( even wih open exhaust , muffler off ) I have heard that the plastic begins to melt.

On the other note,
My 061 was pretty obvious that it was in fact mounted and ran as well. The castor/nitro fuel mix leaves pretty unmistakable traces even in the n.v.a.

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

Buildlight ,
It`s no loss , I`m just miffed that getting the highest price posible was more important to this person than honesty.
It actually is worth what I paid from what I can see unitl total disassembly anyway , I bought it for spare parts anyway.

I just hope t was properly broke in and the like. But since it was not cleaned properly and left that way for a long time obviously.,
It was given avery good "cosmetic" cleanup , the head screwshad only tiny little brown "fried castor" stain ringsaround and on them from running.
I hadn`t noticed this until disasembly.

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

I have been tinkering with heads and head /plug designs for the smaller engines lately , I think that the 061 would benefit from the use of a diferent plug.
Something along the lines of a globee style plug would help it out in the compression area , resulting in better performance.

Once I get around to this endeavor I will post on here how it goes.

Right now I`m waiting on my plugs , taps and tachometer to come in , it`s no use to mess with it until i can confirm if this is true or I`m just blowing smoke here.

Jared

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

You guys will not believe this..................... There is a guy on another forums group that wants to find a good home for his used G-mark 061. After a few corespondences , I finally just said " look , I have no idea what it`s worth , you have knowledge of how and how much it has been ran , and how much life it has left. I paid $60 for my "claimed to be new" one and based on that what do you think it`s worth? "

He said it was only ran for 2 seasons , once a month and asked what I thought about paying $25 plus shipping.
At that point I said $40 total , can`t take advantage of a fellow modeler for pete`s sake.