AIRPLANENUTS

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, Steve. I'll give it a try.

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

Steve,

I'm not able to find Webra 1.2 dimensions on the web to compare with the OS1.2 FS I plan to use on the Mayhem.

Another gentleman on this thread says the dimensions probably limit one to inverted install.

Can you invision a OS 1.2 with standard muffler sitting sideways on this model.

I've finally gotten beyond worrying about hitting my head on landing, but inverted engines seem to have starting and setup problems that I'd rather not contend with.

A pix of your install would be great. I would appriciate your comments

Thanks Robin

brittgo6

Anyone have a suggestion on how you get the rudder cables down thru the fuselage. Am having a heck of time. On my wheel pants i did fill the seam and repainted and also added red stars. Not to bad loking. I put a YS110 should be be a great flyer. Also anyone tried to tint the canopy? On my 4 Star the plastic wouldn't take on the Dye treatment. No sure with the Mayhem.
Britt

csliger

I added a strip of fiber-glass cloth across the bottom while the covering was off gluing up the bottom fairing. I figured how could it hurt. I can see where the side mounted motor would make life easier, if ya don't mind it sticking out the side a bit. It'll run cooler anyway, inverted is strictly an appearance issue. Upright and inverted are a little better for lateral balance too, even if you balance laterally the moments are usually different as the weight is usually out on the wing. Not usually an issue in 3-d however, and a very subtle issue at best/worst.
One guy at our club who is a very talented 3-D flier always leaves his cowls off on 3-D craft. He flew his Funtana and now his Flip 3-D this way with the engine upright. Never seemed to cause him trouble what so ever, I could even see him mounting the engine upright through the cowl, he's that kinda guy. It'd be easy to give him grief about some of the other contraptions he brings to the field ..that is until he gets them up into the air and makes them dance. Then I just start calling him Master Yoda and telling him how I want to be a Jedi someday too.

csliger

Britgo can you post a picture of those wheelpants? They are quite an issue so far in this thread.

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

Brittgo 6
Easy! Take a small plastic tubing like an old "Goldenrod" or antenna sleave available at LHS for about a buck-then thread it in from the exit hole in the back. Just a little wiggleing will do the trick. You can then push the cable through the tube, then pull out the tube.
Worked for me on several models.
Good luck.
Robin

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Just reading through this thread regarding the engine size. Given the 72" span, and the fact that a Saito 1.80 has the same dimensions as the 1.20, why not just use the 1.80?

brittgo6

Thank's for info. I'll give the antenna sleeve a shot. Also I don't have the capabilities of posting pics of my wheel pants.

csliger

That's where I'm kinda sittin' My LHS owner with 30+ years exp wants me to go with a Saito 180 and from what I'm seeing it's a three ounce additional. I need to measure up for prop clearance soon, wouldn't be good to under prop it either as I'v had trouble with idle/starting. I was wanting to see how Dhammer's turned out. I'd still like to see photo's posted of the wheelpant's that brittgo dressed up and the 120 ninety degree install too.
BTW it is snowin like crazy here, looks like the weather man was correct for once.

csliger

Sorry brittgo I musta been typin' while you were answering. How's Urbandale doing? I grew up in Cedar Rapids myself

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

On getting the cable through the fuselage, get a piece of 1/32 music wire and CA, or even solder the end of the cable to it. You can feed the stiff wire through the fuselage and pull the curly, pull-pull cable through.

I haven't started on mine yet because I'm finishing up a Burrito 3D plane for a kit review for R/C Report. The 3D Mayhem will also be a kit review.

If you side mount, where does the muffler end up? I guess you could use a Pitts. Looks like the plane is too wide for a good side mount clearance. I plan to use an OS .91FX with a Performance Specialties Ultra Thrust muffler (I need to stick to recommended engine sizes for the review). The plane looks awful big for a .91, though. Have to think light on this one and not add anything extra.

Personally, I think the Webra 1.20 will be ideal. It's light and powerful. With a lot of other engines, you'll be adding tail weight. I know someone mentioned the prototype used an OS .91 4-stroke, but the instructions show a Saito .91. If it balances with a Saito, we're in trouble. I have a couple and they only weigh 20.5 ounces with mufler. I put 'em in tail heavy .46 size planes.

Do you know how much fuel a Saito 1.80 burns!!

csliger

I've been un-naturally lucky at the club meetings in the fuel drawings, they're starting to talk conspiracy. I think the 180 is too much motor for the frame itself to resist the torque and what not. But then I could mount a cyclic and collective to the prop right? muwahahah I'm over a mile up in elevation and we usually have to over-power stuff to get it to go. I'll probably go the 120 route ultimately, kinda waiting for folks like you to get those flight reports in.

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

This is the first time I will use anything other than standard servos. I tried to select servos that will do the job and not break the bank.
Are these considered adequate for the Mayhem?

Servo: HS-475HB Ailerons
Servo: HS-475HB Elevator
Servo: HS-625MG Rudder
Servo: HS-322HD Throttle
Battery: 6.0V 1400mah Pack

Comments Please.

Thanks Robin

csliger

Robin did your plane come in today? I don't think those servo's will work on ailerons. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEM0&P=0]hitec servo link[/link] the ailerons require 70 oz/in according to the manual and these are 61oz /in @.23 sec. pumping them up to six volts will bring them into spec but I think those babies will be working very hard... That is prone to failure. Sure they look good at 17.99 at tower but I think you're gonna haveta fork over more dough. Either that or fly mildly like you would a cub. One good high speed dive and the resin gears will probably let loose. Those ailerons are as big as closet doors.
Time will tell what will be adequate for sure, but for now we have to assume that Sig made their recommendations upon testing and failure analysis of some sort. Wouldn't ya rather someone else reports that they aren't adequate? However if ya go ahead and install let us know if they work ok. I'd kinda like to know if they feel warm after a flight.
"That's just my opinion, course I could be wrong" lol

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for your input. I didn't select these servos-the tech at servo city did.
I am kind of a sunday flier and will not try to push the airplane to its limits. I will never compete in 3D - too much of a geezer.

All that said, what would you consider as minimum servos for the bird.

Your input will be valued.

Thanks - Robin

csliger

Robin, my earlier post to you had some suggestions.. go back to page one, those are the ones that I'm considering. Airplane Nuts listed his servos too that he is installing.The Cirrus look interesting to me though I do not have any experience with them (brand) and they are a new model for Cirrus. I pretty much stick to Futaba and Hitec. I've seen a lot of crashes from what I consider to have been marginal servo selection/installation. Were I to go with those servos I would probably expect a shorter service life, sell them after a season on E-bay and get another set each year.
All products have a useful life span, like a car. If you change the oil often and drive reasonably the car will last over 100K miles. If you race it 500 miles as fast as it will go, it stand a better chance of not making it to 100K miles. That's how I look at stuff like this. Say you get behind the airplane a little cause you've had it up in the air a few times and you're getting comfortable and are trying some stunts... you make the wrong control input and slam the control the other way to correct...then what happens? Better safe than sorry I think, That's why I'm selling one of my children to pay for servos for this bird LOL!

pbird

My Feedback: (10)

Received mine today very nice looking arf. Totally impressed with the hardware pkg will use most of it. I am going with a Saito 120 inverted with the wieght of this plane should be plenty of power. Fut 9102's in the airelons but not quite sure on the rudder and elevator. Have heard a lot about the Fut 3305's plenty of torque but I hear they are a little on the slow side. Have run into a slight problem this evening putting the wing panels together just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem? I am not getting a flush fit at the trailing edge og the wing root. I have tried it with and without the dihedral brace installed so I am inclined to think it is in the wing panel itself. Any fix to this or should I haul it back to the local hobby shop I am hesitant as it is 45 miles away. Will appreciate any input as to build mods or servo selection. Can't wait to hear some flight reports as I am probably a couple weeks away.

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

As for the wing call Sig:
USA Modeler's Hot Line:
(For tech support) 641-623-0215
My guess they will send you a new one if they can't tell you how to fix it.

You said "Fut 9102's in the airelons" -- I can't find anything about a 9102 - is this the right number?

Keep us posted on your progress.

Robin

csliger

Robin I think he means S9202 [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH299&P=0]LINK[/link] for the same price he could have digitals that are faster [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ77&P=0]LINK[/link]. Either are great servo's. There is a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH298&P=7]S9102[/link] servo here. I measured the holes with a caliper and to within 0.003" each, which I think is amazing, the dims on the elevator and wing openings are 0.825" wide X 1.610" with a mounting depth available on the wings of 1.333" and only 1.070" on elevator.

brittgo6

Sorry I didn't get back to you but I had to leave to go to work. Urbandale growing heck it takes you 35mins just to get out of town. Anyway have a nice day and it looks like I'll be getting the shovel out. This snow is getting old.

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

Britt i was noticeing that the ailerons call for 70 0z servos. better rethink using the standard ones that you have, would hate to see something happen , i would suggest the 625s or 645 s for the ailerons too, Brian at the hobby shop will sell them for 39 bucks each, think about it and let me know Your buddy Bruce

robinr767

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Bruce,

Thank you. You just validated my decision. I bought a Hitec flight pack with 4 Hitech 645's and a 6V 1400 Ma battery about $207 total from Servo City.

There has been so much discussion on this thread regarding servos I finally called Sig. Their radio tech said they used the 645's. I was going to go with Hitec 605 which are still available here and there, but he placed a high value on metal gears. Yes, I know the 645's are a few nanoseconds slower than other servos. But, I'm sure they will get the thing off the ground.

My Mayhem finally made it here. Nifty looking, but I doubt it will fly straight with the amount of right thrust built into the firewall!

Hope this helps with others in the servo quandary.

Gotta get the glue out. -- Robin

csliger

I've got the thing assembled and here are a few Photo's if this works. So now what does everybody plan to do with the stickers? Any other ideas?[:-]

AIRPLANENUTS

My Feedback: (2)

BRRRR! Looks cold. Plane looks sweet, though! Needs skis!

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

Glad you went with the 645s there are great servos for this bird , i have used them on many planes with no problems just remember to put a little blue locktite on the servo screws to keep them from vibrating out , just a little dab will do ya .