MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

dj, no heat, just pull and bang.

However, I found every time I tried to do the 90ΒΊ bend at the bottom it would crack. Add a piece of 1/8" ply to the bend side so it has a little give

bullitt3577

I finally got the plane together after getting the wing back from Horizon. On Sat, I got the engine broken in, but I had a question about 4-strokes. This is my first 4- stroke engine and was wondering what kind of rpm I should tune it to? I have a Saito 100 with a 14X8.

Jimmy

djstar39

My Feedback: (4)

Minn,

That's exactly what's been happening to me... on the 90 degree bend, it would crack. I'll try it with the 1/8" ply and see what happens.

Thanks!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Don't worry about the RPM. That can be very misleading.

Run it sloppy rich for the first two or three tankfulls. After that lean it out as it's running - You will hear the RPM rise. After a while it will stop rising - a few clicks more and it will start to go sick (If you leave it there or keep going it will probably backfire and spit the prop) so as soon as you hear it sag, back it off to the rich side again just until you hear a slight RPM drop, then richen it 3 or 4 more clicks.

Run it like that for 2 or 3 tanks (You can be flying it while you're burning those tankfulls)

After that, richen it back to peak. While it's running full bore, point the nose up for a few seconds. If it leans out, richen it a few clicks until it will point up with no loss of power.

Harry Lagman

Jimmy, for reference, my Saito 100 with APC 14x8 on the H9 MA P51 does about 9200 rpm ready to fly, slightly rich from peak.

bullitt3577

Thanks for the info.

I should be doing the maiden flight tommorow or Thurs. I think I'm hooked on 4-strokes now, they sound cool.

My next plane is probably going to be the Funtana 40 with an OS 70 Ultimate 4-stroke.

Jimmy

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

If you think the 4 strokes sound cool, get you a Keleo header! Just invest in Windex and rags.

bullitt3577

Yeah, I was really tempted to get it. I was thinking about it pretty hard while I was waiting for the wing to come back. Oh well, I can always order a replacement cowl and get the Keleo exhaust later.

Jimmy

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Good Package Deal Available,

I have a NIB MA with a Keleo exhaust for a YS 91-110 and the proper Dave Brown Spinner and adaptor. I also have a Hitec HS-75BB retract servo and the stock landing gear has already been modified with the larger wire. I just bought a Wildhare Edge 120 540T and will be practicing IMAC and later going to gasoline. I am no longer in need of these parts and will make a good deal to someone as a package. PM me for details if anyone is interested.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Stoney, you should have sprung for the 27% Wildhare Edge....whhooooooooweeeeee.........with a 50 DA.....

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Would have if I could have, but can't transport anything that large right now and can't afford to buy an Expedition. My friend has the WH Giles with a twin and it is really sweet. He bought one of those Dodge/Mercedes Diesel Sprinter vans to transport his stuff in. He is on his way to Toledo now and will bring my plane back if Tom brought one there. Should know by tomorrow.

shakes268

Stupid question here and I have looked but can't find a reference in any of the threads.

The manual says to use the 8 32 blind nuts and bolts, but to drill a 5/32 hole. The two bolts I have are much larger and fit the blind nuts. Did anyone have to drill larger holes?

EDIT: Nevermind, found it on this thread.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2183976/anchors_2183976/mpage_1/key_hangar/anchor/tm.htm#2183976]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2183976/anchors_2183976/mpage_1/key_hangar/anchor/tm.htm#2183976[/link]

shakes268

Got my Keleo exhaust in today. One thing I thought was interesting, he's started adding a pressure nipple to them with a letter explaining that engines seemed to surge without it. Very nice piece of workmanship!

pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

What antena are you using?

luc-RCU

std antenna, ...I leave it inside the fuse and it goes out thru the tail linkages... you can't see it
never any glitch (berg 6)

pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

So thats a dummy sticking on the top?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yes

shakes268

So did everyone that assembled this plane glass the inside of the firewall? I'm almost finished with mine and wondering if it's ok or needs the firewall glassed.

LarryQ

My Feedback: (1)

I did..but then again I did put a YS 110 on her.....

Seems like cheap insurance if you ask me...
10 miniutes of work and overnight cure time sure makes me sleep better at night....But then again I am O.C. by nature.

Larry

shakes268

Thanks, I have some 2 oz fiberglass cloth I can use on it. No finishing resin so I'll just thin the epoxy with alcohol.
Got the Keleo exhaust mounted today and I get goosebumps just looking at it on the stand

LarryQ

My Feedback: (1)

I'm sure you will be happy...

I consider mine the best bird I own....flies like a pattern ship!

Oh..and..I hate to say this....but I finally BROKE one of the factory retracts......

I can't get a set of frank tiano's...and the robarts I bought just don't fit without hacking the wheel wells up!

SO..I'm in search of a set of FACTORY retracts....(I will drill them out to accept my 3/16 struts later)...
The Horizon site states that they are out of stock until LATE MAY!

Anyone have a good set they would sell me?!?!?!?!

Please..please..pretty please?????


Mine SPLIT...straight down the middle.....front to back!

ARRRGGGHHHHH


Larry

shakes268

Aren't they basically the same as the hobbico mechanicals?
Mine has 3/16" titanium struts - so we'll see! They will bend, just not stay bent - takes more force to get them to set into a bend and SUPER light.

I just finished the glassing job. My first Good lord what a mess! A lot of firsts with this plane. Any need to also glass the wing center? I got a good butt joint but the top and bottom seem to taper some and it leaves a gap. Dihedral is correct. I went back and thinned some epoxy slightly then brushed it over the gap filling it in - the thinning let it run right down into the cracks then used alcohol and wiped the covering down to get the excess off. I think it will be fine but still nervous.

LarryQ

My Feedback: (1)

I also had a SMALL gap on the bottom of the wing...

All I did was to make a nice "Bead" of epoxy to "Fill" the gap....

I noticed the gap was really only from the balsa sheeting, as my main bulkheads were flat against each other when I joined the wing halves.

I scored the halves..and after the joiner..it really came out strong!

I can perform "Square loops" at WOT and everything is holding FIRM!.

What retracts from Hobbico do you think these are???

Also, did you make your struts?? and would you like to sell a me a set of those Ti struts (3/16)..?????


Man Ti struts...a gottahavit if I ever heard of one!

Still in need of a set of stock retracts tho....HELLLLPPPPP!!!!!!

shakes268

Well, my ignorance may be getting the better of me but I thought I read somewhere here on RCU that Hangar 9 retracts are basically the hobbico retracts. However, it might not be the case.

I bought the titanium struts from central hobbies. $17.00 a pair. Used a dremel with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel to cut them to length. Lots of white sparks and I suggest eye protection as well as some kind of dust mask because the air was filled with fine bits of Ti. Just go slow or you'll break the wheel. Patience! Also, it gets VERY hot - to the point the masking tape I used (stupid choice) to mark where I wanted to cut burned a little from the heat.


Here's a pic of the struts - they are a dull color and look nice.

LarryQ

My Feedback: (1)

If I call Central...is there a P/N...or will they know what I'm talking about if I say Ti struts, 3/16 dia. for the H9 M/A????

ALso...did you bend a 90' to act as the wheel axle or did you install a set of axles????

THe hobbico retracts I see...don't seem to say 82' (Std for the H9 M/A) or even look like the stock ones...

the Hobbico look better (Alum sides)....

And if they fit w/o mods...I'm ordering a set!

One thing you MAY want to do..Is replace the adjustment set screws on your retracts...(where you can remove "Wobble when down and locked)..with 6/32 or even 8/32 set screw).

The tiny ones that come with M/A stock are such a fine pitch..that one good jolt and they strip the plastic..
32 pitch seeems to be more agressive and less prone to getting pushed back "In" through the plastic

Lastly....
on your cowl......

Did you just screw into the firewall with the supplied screws.....

If so..STOP!!!!

They WILL back out in flight!

Here are your options....

Drill out the holes to accept a small peice of control rod "Inner Core" and CA them onto the holes to act as "LAGS for the screws....

Or better....

Go get a set of 6/32 blind screw inserts (Brass), drill out the holes in the fuse and ca them into place.

Go to Ace hardware, and get a set of 6/32 button head allen screws (ss) and a set of #6 washers that have the rubber washer afixed to one side...
these washers are my best addition to my hardware box...and keep several sizes on hand for field repairs!
THe washers are "Bellville"...and act as "Springs" as the screws are tightened.
The attached rubber washer grips anything it touches!
These are designed to water proof things..but really grip the cowl w/o the possibility of cracking the fiberglass!


Larry