WildeOne

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If anyone is interested, I've scanned a Sept '08 review by R/C Report that has some key info for those planning to build this one, including how the upper wing halves lock (undocumented in the revised instructions) and some other key data. Send me a PM with your real email if interested. I'm going to start building using a Ryobi 31 with CDI for power.

WildeOne

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BTW, I'm planning to build using one elev servo mounted forward and using a "U" shaped music wire joiner for the elev halves to keep weight down and forward. I'll be using 130+ in-oz servos, so there should be plenty of power and using a CF pushrod to minimize slop. I plan on keeping all but the aileron servos together in the cockpit area, to minimize the need for balance weight..

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Wild,
Please PM me. I'm interested. And can you post some pix of your build? Are you going to do any scale delails?

CHeerz!

[email protected]

Tauri Flyer

Wild1
You'll find the Ryobi a good match and you'll be able to fully cowl it. Weight and Balance won't be a problem. I'd recommend beefing up the wing tubes, it's a little weird looking when your wings flap during the taxi out.

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

Did you epoxy the tubes in the center sections? Any other issues? I don't like my planes with flapping wings, either!

BTW, a feature I plan to incorporate, is a very simple and cheap engine safety shutdown circuit, which I have tested and has a little engine running time. I use a very small reed switch similar to this: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-N.O./-/1.html which are two for $1 from All Electronics. These are quite vibration resistant and reliable devices, which change state in the presence of a magnetic field. You need some very small heat shrink to insulate the lead that gets turned back 180°, stuff it all in some 1/8" OD plastic tubing, stick a short piece of 2-56 threaded rod in one end, hold vertical heat and drip some epoxy in the now open end with the wires coming out. The switch is activated by a tiny rare earth magnet epoxied to the firewall and the leads go to the magneto ground and hot (or use to open the battery power for CDI). I usually use a sub mini toggle switch in parallel so I don't need the radio on the ground to kill the engine. The whole deal is driven mechanically by a small servo connected to an on/off channel. Picture of a potted switch on the left and one using red Sullivan tube scrap on the right. Set up so the wire doesn't impede the servo action and adjust travel so the switch operates at full servo deflection.

No guarantees here ... just something I've done that works for me. Thought I had some unused reed relays, but must have used them all up. In any case, they typically switch an amp or more and are very small and light weight. To give you an idea of scale, the magnet shown is ~ 4mm x 10 mm.

My workshop is pretty cramped, so I won't post a ton of pictures, but will try to put some up as I progress.

jfbush

Wild1,
I recently purchased the cmp 120 tiger moth from Nitro Planes and I am interested in getting any build information on the plane. The instructions do not offer a lot of information. I plan on building the plane with an electric motor (Scorpion S4020-14 with 14x7 E prop). I found you 11-27-09 message indicating you had a review of the 120Tiger Moth by R/C Report magazine and I was wondering if I could get a copy. I'm new to this forum so how do I get a copy.

Thanks,

J Bush

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

JBush, sent you a PM

toddsl

Well assembly is well under way on a moth I bought about 9 months ago. A few questions since the instructions are so poor. Has anyone got a pics of the aileron interconnection set up? There are no details given for connecting the upper and lower ailerons. Also what size prop has worked with the 1.20 sized motor? Would you consider the flying wires structural or cosmetic on this plane? Is it airworthy without them if I wanted to fly before getting them installed? From what I see they need to be installed for lateral structural stability else things will wobble. Thanks in advance.

Todd

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

I have the same plane, but haven't started it yet. I think the std plane only has ailerons on lower wings. AV8TOR1977 has one that he added upper wing ailerons and linkage, to give increased roll rate. I'm sure he could post or send pictures so you could see how he did it. Send him a PM.

toddsl

Thanks. Actually the silver CMP Tiger Moth 1.20 from Nitroplanes came stock with upper and lower ailerons but no details in the instructions on which hardware to use. I've also had to recover the lower ailerons. They had some packing damage and I had to remove the covering for repair. I'll see if I can get some pics posted. Any chance you still have a copy of the report from R/C Reports?

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

Sure, PM me with your email address.

HornetFitter

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I made flying wires for mine and they are 100% structural.

Sorry I can't post pictures, but I am away from home (deployed)...

toddsl

Hornetfitter,

Where did you get the 90 degree exhaust elbow pictured in the other moth thread? I'm not running a Saito but would like to try and find one for my ASP. Thanks.

Todd

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

I think it was Great Hobbies, but I can't remember for certain. ASP uses different threads than FS if I am not mistaken. Better check it out to be sure.

kerwin50

Are you going to post pictures of your build?

toddsl

Ok I just learned if you’re going make a large post you need to type it up somewhere else then cut, paste and post it. Otherwise your session times out and you loose it all.
OK it seems the centerline for the engine mounting is correct based on the fact the firewall angles right and the hole in the cowl is up high. However, the stock engine mount goes right to the edge of the firewall and the engine is still not high enough. I tried mounting the engine on top of the mount and lowering the mount. The problem is this puts the mount in the path of the throttle linkage. Looks like I’ll do a combination of shimming the lower mount and slightly enlarging the cowl opening.
I went with a dubro tailwheel instead of the stock. I like the spring set-up and have it on other planes. I may need to add structure to the rudder to mount the tailwheel pull.
I don’t currently have a servo reverser so I place one elevator servo arm below the servo and one above. It’s a bit of a brain teaser. I thought for a moment I could mount the servos in opposite directions. It still turns the same direction though. Eventually I’ll have a servo reverser.
I mounted the rudder servo under the aft cockpit and the throttle servo under the front cockpit.
I had trouble finding a 90 degree elbow for the exhaust that will work on the ASP. I was told OS uses the same threads. I found a seller that has a variety of elbows so I’ve got the 14x.75 on the way. We’ll see how that works. Works on Magnum should work for ASP. Here’s the link:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=708898

Also Nitroplanes recently posted some good build videos for this plane on youtube. A series of 4 videos. Here’s the first one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guy2qD-jFiU

kerwin50

Are you going to use onboard glow, or maybe remote glow. I've got a 40 size tigermoth and it's a headache starting it with the engine inverted.
I can't wait to here how it flys.
Mine need the throttle add slowly on taking off due to the narrow landing gear

toddsl

I was originally planning on a remote glow start adapter similar to what I have on another cowled engine airplane. I've since decided to put an onboard battery and run the remote glow wires through a switch for starting only. I'll place the battery as far foward as possible. Hopefully I'll remember to turn the glow switch off after starting. I currently have a .61 Four stroke (also ASP) inverted on another plane and so far haven't had any difficulty starting. I know thw glow plug tends to get fouled quicker when the motor is inverted. I try and store the fuselage upside down. The problem I have had is with fuel syphoning. Shouldn't be too much of and issue here unless the tank is totally full. The engine carb sits toward the top of the tank.
I'm also using a Hitec Optima 6 receiver and will power the servos from a 5 cell Nimh pack and the receiver from a 3s lipo(just because that's what I have lying around). All 3 switches will be mounted on the foward cockpit instrument panel.

kerwin50

Cline makes a regulator if you do have a problem with it siphioning

cjtyped

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone have a NIB of this plane? I would like to buy one. Thank You in advance.

toddsl

Had the maiden flight today. Here's the video. I'll get another video posted soon with some details of the plane.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTFqZP1Lg9g

toddsl

Here's a not too detailed overview video of my assembly.

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt0dhlQ6580[/link]

toddsl

Finally got a nice calm day for flying. This video was the 5th flight. Had a little trouble on the 3rd flight when my elevator trim got screwed up. Got the plane down while holding full nose down to keep it level and only suffered a broken prop. The current prop is a Master Airscrew 16x6 and it screams. Literally. Sounded like WW2 fighter at full throttle. I'll go back to the 15x8 prop shortly.

I like the quad aileron set-up. It gives a fast roll rate.

The Moth flying starts at 1:32 in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXr9YS87as0

kerwin50

great to see her up and flying

porathl

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Would you kindly send me that review, my email is [email protected]
Thanks for your assistance, I am currently building the nitro planes yellow version, it also has ailerons on bothupper and lower wings.
Louie Porath