Tom Nied

The loop part of the question mark gets pretty big, but when done right you should be able to tilt the wire end in and rotate the servo into the position. Remember, you have the servo mount rails on the outside that raises the servo a bit. I agree, it seems weird, but I've done this on a number of models including my two Avistars and it takes a bit of perseverance and determination to get it opened enough that you can rotate that servo into position. None of this should affect structural integrity of the wing.

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

Make sure when you are ready to do your hinges you do a test fit to be sure they slide into both the wing and the aileron tight but not so tight that they are binding and bending.Second make sure you leave a small gap between the wing and the aileron so it has an easy range of motion(it will be a very small gap,you will be able to see light through it and thats about it).Third when you are all lined up and double checked your ready for ca, I usually use 2-3 on each side and the hinges will soak it all in thierself. If there is ca dripping anywhere then you've used too much. The pin is just to make sure the hinge doesnt slide too far into either the wing or the aileron leaving not very much for the other to grip to. I have never used this method myself I've always just eyeballed it and havent had a problem(knock on wood) but I wouldnt say this is the best way.

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

The other thing I was going to mention is check if there will be enough room next to the servo(you may have to trim a small notch for the wire) for the wire to come up out of when the wing is together so it isn't pinched between the wing and the servo. Also when everything is together and the servo tray is mounted when you go to actually put that servo in there its going to seem snug,just work it in and take your time it will fit. </p>

goirish

Place a pin between the TE of the wing and the LE of the aileron. Put the pin through the CA hinge. That way you get the proper gap and at the same time you keep the CA hinge from sliding in to far on either the aileron or the wing. After you get it pinned and before you put any CA on flex the aileron full up and full down to help line the hinges and make sure there is no binding. Then put your CA on very carefully so it doesn't run all over the place. If you do get some runs clean immediately with Acetone. It won't hurt the covering and will clean the CA off.

FlyingGatsby

So you're saying I should do something like this, enlarging the notch for the servo wire: [img]file:///C:/DOCUME~1/HAITRI~1.HAI/LOCALS~1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/img]http://s902.photobucket.com/albums/ac227/PurpleGatsby/?action=view&amp;current=ServoPocket.jpg


But wouldn't I have to enlarge it a lot? Since the servo has a rubber boot. The pocket doesn't have much space for the servo to move back and forth either, more sanding ahead?

Tom Nied

Yes, you do. I don't know what the designers were thinking, but yes, you do have to open it up so that you can rotate wire end first into the servo slot. Those two root ribs need to be opened up so that you can do that. You keep the the slot where it goes in the same, but inside you have to make it open enough for the servo to rotate into position. Remember, the servo rails will raise the servo by about 1/4 inch.

FlyingGatsby

Wow, I just checked a second time to see if the servo fits in vertically, it's a little tight while putting it in vertically, but once it's sitting there's lots of room.
I guess I'll still sand to clean it up a bit.

But I still have to glue on the mount while the servo is inside, because of that dang rubber boot on the servo, You can't slide the servo in after the blocks are glued onto the servo tray, even if you sand the tray to get the most room. The rubber boot stops you from pushing it in, even if you tilt.

Tom Nied

hmm, tight or meaning you have to kind of work it into position, sounds about right. As long as you can get it in with a little persuasion, sounds about right.

Tom Nied

A notch, say 1/4" by 1/8, right at the wing skin, should help to get it in. I think I had to do that.

FlyingGatsby

Is there any method, to keep epoxy from getting on my servo?

Tom Nied

yeah, you glue the wing together first, then when its cured, you install your servo. Trust me, you'll be fine. If you have to go back in with a grinding drum or sandpaper, then fine.

FlyingGatsby

How much V's should a 4.8v battery have when fully charged?

The wall charger that came with my radio didn't shut off,even though my battery shows 5.8v, when I measured on my multimeter

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

Most wall chargers don't "shut off" per say. If you charged it overnight and it is showing 5.8v, its probably fine. But I would recommend getting a "Volt Watch" to check the battery condition after each flight. They are about $12.
I've got a couple planes that I equipped with a Volt Watch on board, so I can see right away how my battery is doing. I've also got one that I can just plug into the charge port or directly to the battery and check its condition. There are different types and brands available, but here's the one I use.

[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHDJ2&P=ML[/link]

1320Fastback

I love my Avistar, of all my planes both slower and faster the Avistar gets flown the most.

FlyingGatsby

Okay, I have a 4.8v RX battery, that came with my Futaba 6EXP Fm.

The problem is, when the battery is at 5.4v, it can barely power 1 servo, and once you unplug the battery, the connector is a little warm, I'm suspecting the receiver is pulling more than the battery can supply?

alfredbmor

It might, I just read about it, you must know the amperage needed to work each servo or any other electric device attached to the receiver.

"Our tests show that ONE JR 8717 servo draws 2.2 amps under load. A system using just 3 of these servos (not counting tail servo, receiver or gyro) would draw more than 6.5 amps during flight. When one adds in the draw of the tail servo, receiver and gyro, the load is much more than the 5 amp continuous..."

Took it from Castle creations.

You may try with other receiver.

FlyingGatsby

All right,  but here's what is says in the manual

R168DF receiver - Current drain 10mA, Power Requirement 4.8v (shared with servo)

S3001 Servo-  Power requirement 4.8v

I don't see what requirements I'm failing to meet.

goirish

When you say it moves slow, is that what you mean or does it not travel very far. Like from stop to stop

Tom Nied

Are you plugging the servo in correctly, as well as the battery?

mike109

G'day

Most of the time your servos are drawing very little current. They are only pulling a lot of current when the servo is stalled or at near full power. In a trainer that is flying normally, the load on the servos is quite light. Do a loop and you pull a bit more current, do a really tight turn - ditto - but most of the time things are pretty quiet.

Start flying 3D and things get a bit different as the servos are working all the time and several at a time as well but in your trainer, I think your basic setup should be fine.

For this reason, your servos should be connected to control surfaces that move freely so that the power the servo generates is going towards moving the surface against the air and not against friction in the system. If a servo is quiet, it is not using a lot of current. If it is chattering or making other noises, then it may be.

You have a "normal" 40 size trainer with "normal" servos, a "normal" battery etc etc. It should work perfectly unless there is some serious problem with one or more of the electronic bits. I suspect there is no problem.

Or in the words of the late great Douglas Adams "Don't Panic."

Keep having fun. That's what it is all about.

alfredbmor

I have seen stalled servos in many trainers, mostly the throttle servo, and aileron servo. I would also look for stalled servo noise as a part of the check points program.

alfredbmor

I have seen stalled servos in many trainers, mostly the throttle servo, and aileron servo. I would also look for stalled servo noise as a part of the check points program.

FlyingGatsby

The battery can barely move one servo. I checked my connections, and they're correct. I have no idea what's wrong, because when the battery is at 5.3v it should be able to power everything.<div></div><div>Barely meaning, it moves very slow, and there's no power in it, if I hold the control horn lightly in my fingers, the servo can't even pull itself out.</div>

Tom Nied

I would agree, something sounds way wrong. And you charged both batteries overnight?

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

Do all the servos behave the same way?