What to do with a Hanno head with a stripped glow plug thread??
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Santa Ana,
CA
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
You can send it to: Lee CustomEngines
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, Ca. 91040
PH# 818 352 2766
By the way, this is Clarence Lee who wrote Engine Clinic in R C M Magzine.
You can send it to: Lee CustomEngines
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, Ca. 91040
PH# 818 352 2766
By the way, this is Clarence Lee who wrote Engine Clinic in R C M Magzine.
#4
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ARGHHHH,
I spent hours machining a nice stepped hole and matching brass insert along with paying $20 AUD for a glow plug tap, and the best comment is I should send it elsewhere. Does my repair really look THAT bad [&o]
Just kidding, I enjoyed every minute of it
The Hanno should have had a brass insert from the start..
I spent hours machining a nice stepped hole and matching brass insert along with paying $20 AUD for a glow plug tap, and the best comment is I should send it elsewhere. Does my repair really look THAT bad [&o]
Just kidding, I enjoyed every minute of it
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#5
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bjr 93tz
You also could have made a helicoil yourself, that was my solution, but congratulations because our hobby is making, and not buying solutions.
I think the amount of hours to spend was the same but my lathe and the space for the solution was a little smaller. Nice job, good picture.
Taurus Flyer
You also could have made a helicoil yourself, that was my solution, but congratulations because our hobby is making, and not buying solutions.
I think the amount of hours to spend was the same but my lathe and the space for the solution was a little smaller. Nice job, good picture.
Taurus Flyer
#9
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i think some of us misunderstood the thread. i wondered what was wrong with the head, now i understand you were showing us your repair. does look nice btw.
#10
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: huntsville,
AL
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
same head as sf and rf to my knowledge just not red. but a good anodizing shop can fix that for under $40.
gary
gary
#11
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Embarrassment](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif)
It really hurt me to have this happen as I am dreading the day when this motor will become a shelf display item because of some unobtainable part. I can see the day in the future when this motor will have a flywilly/nelson piston liner, home made crank and conrod, aftermarket bearings and a perry pump, BUT as long as it has a red head and a number stamped on the case than it'll forever be a "Hanno Special"
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Taurus Flyer: Making a helicoil is just wrong,
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
flywilly: Engine is in a 8 1/4 lb SlingShot circa '92. A bit overweight but still flies ok, I'm Brett Richards in the Sportsmen class, first comp back since last one in '94.
http://www.qpfa.org.au/Results/2009/...20Results.html
#12
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: bjr_93tz
I'm Brett Richards in the Sportsmen class, first comp back since last one in '94.
I'm Brett Richards in the Sportsmen class, first comp back since last one in '94.
In Sportsman, a competitor returning to the discipline, Brett Richards, won out with some excellent flying , while Kieren and Steve rounded out the top three.
1 Brett Richards 1000.00 1000.00 1000.00 1000.00 1000.00 1000.00 5000.00
Nice job Brett
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: kaneohe,
HI
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh my gosh Brett! [X(] With your skills you shouldn't be buying any parts... they should be sponsoring you!
Damn nice perfect score!!!
DM
Damn nice perfect score!!!
DM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ahh the old slingshot, they're still nice.
Good work on the last comp, you got it in spades man
now, BACK TO THE FIRECRACKER! (yes, I'm watching you! I'm curare on the other forum
)
Good work on the last comp, you got it in spades man
now, BACK TO THE FIRECRACKER! (yes, I'm watching you! I'm curare on the other forum
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#15
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Rendegade
Ahh the old slingshot, they're still nice.
Ahh the old slingshot, they're still nice.
I am very tempted to build an all wood Slingshot ripoff, with a dope and silked finish and get it sub 7lbs for the Hanno as this airframe is too heavy (8.25lb) and I won't do snap rolls with it anymore as it's getting on a bit. A sub 7lb Slingshot with an OS 91 pumped Surpass would be a treat....
Better yet, pry open the cheque book and make Steve Coram an offer for one of his Zeque's
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hehe, I'll ask steve if he's willing to sell!
Oh and for the record, the lotus wasn't much stiffer, they had a bit of a wobbly old tail end.
Oh and for the record, the lotus wasn't much stiffer, they had a bit of a wobbly old tail end.
#17
![](/forum/images/badges/trading_plus_member.png)
My Feedback: (121)
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice looking workmanship on your Slingshot, BJR. I was tempted by both the Slingshot and the Lotus (back when there was a Bolly kit importer here in North America), but he wasn't bringing those kits in (or didn't have any and the wait was at least 3-4 months); so I went with the Runaround.
I'd like to build a current design (Zeque, Aries, etc.) but in a 60 sized version - they are so much more convenient - and I have lots of Hannos in various states of aging, but still running well (I just rebuilt 5 of them).
OS has stopped making the 1.40RX; so after almost 30 years they are no longer producing a rear exhaust pattern engine :-( I doubt they will make a larger version.
I guess it's just 4-strokes or electrics (pick your poison[:'(])
-Will
I'd like to build a current design (Zeque, Aries, etc.) but in a 60 sized version - they are so much more convenient - and I have lots of Hannos in various states of aging, but still running well (I just rebuilt 5 of them).
OS has stopped making the 1.40RX; so after almost 30 years they are no longer producing a rear exhaust pattern engine :-( I doubt they will make a larger version.
I guess it's just 4-strokes or electrics (pick your poison[:'(])
-Will
#18
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Renegade/Curare, I might ask him myself if he turns up to the IMAC comp at SWARMS again on the Australia day long weekend. I met the bloke for the first time there at SWARMS this year, funny story was that I nicked one of his color schemes for a Curare I built in '90/'91 so meeting him in person nearly 20 years later really added to the weekend, top bloke as well as he called for me while my older brother (I was flying his planes) had to duck into town.
Nah, I couldn't afford a Zeque anyway so I think I'll build a top plane for the Hanno and use it to stir up the bigger planes![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Flywilly, at the Dalby comp John Payne had a deadstick with his electric. Turned out the batteries had broken a tab off inside the pack, if he had been running an S-BEC or regulator off that pack then he could have kissed his plane good-bye. Lesson learned that it's hard to beat a simple Ni-Cad pack running through a mechanical switch when it come to flight controls.
I think that electric is the way to go in the long run if you're serious about pattern, but fourstrokes sound right for the job and give the plane some "presence" in the air. Two-strokes are just plain wrong (under the current rules) but a well sorted two-stroke still does a good job....
Nah, I couldn't afford a Zeque anyway so I think I'll build a top plane for the Hanno and use it to stir up the bigger planes
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Flywilly, at the Dalby comp John Payne had a deadstick with his electric. Turned out the batteries had broken a tab off inside the pack, if he had been running an S-BEC or regulator off that pack then he could have kissed his plane good-bye. Lesson learned that it's hard to beat a simple Ni-Cad pack running through a mechanical switch when it come to flight controls.
I think that electric is the way to go in the long run if you're serious about pattern, but fourstrokes sound right for the job and give the plane some "presence" in the air. Two-strokes are just plain wrong (under the current rules) but a well sorted two-stroke still does a good job....
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've gone in a slightly different direction, of running an MVVS 160 petrol in my last pattern ship (that said my current bird has a 140 in it,) I think a little more time spent on getting an effective schnurle ported 30cc rear exhaust petrol would be a helluva engine.
I'll design it, if someone supplies the CNC gear to do it!
I'll design it, if someone supplies the CNC gear to do it!
#20
![](/forum/images/badges/trading_plus_member.png)
My Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Euharlee,
GA
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fantastic job on the brass insert!! That looks really great and thanks for sharing the "repair technique"!!
Have Fun...
Chuck
Have Fun...
Chuck
#21
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Atlanta60.
If anyone out there wants to know, I drilled the remaining thread out with a 7.5mm drill then drilled in an 8mm hole from the combustion chamber side stopping about 1.5mm short. In effect creating a stepped hole with a 0.25mm ledge. This also means the OD of the glow plug washer is slightly larger than the OD of the brass insert at the top so it effectively stops the insert (and glowplug) from "falling" into the cylinder while the step stops it "popping" out the top.
A piece of brass was drilled with a 5.5mm drill and tapped with a 1/4" 32TPI UNEF tap, then turned durn to the appropriate diameters.
My best guesses and a bit of googling indicated that the brass should expand less than the aluminiun so the "fit" should loosen as the head heats up and tighten as the head cools down, so after carefully calculating the required diameters that would give me the optimum interference fit at the expected operating temperature I machined the insert until it felt like it was going to fit if I heated the head a bit....![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I then heated the head and pressed the thing in with a drill press and a drop of loctite, and cleaned up the seat and combustion chamber, and bingo!
PS. the machining purists will want to kill me for making the stepped hole with jobber drills and measuring the insert diameter with a vernier caliper but when you're doing an outside job at work in another department's workshop you try not to draw too much attention to yourself.
If anyone out there wants to know, I drilled the remaining thread out with a 7.5mm drill then drilled in an 8mm hole from the combustion chamber side stopping about 1.5mm short. In effect creating a stepped hole with a 0.25mm ledge. This also means the OD of the glow plug washer is slightly larger than the OD of the brass insert at the top so it effectively stops the insert (and glowplug) from "falling" into the cylinder while the step stops it "popping" out the top.
A piece of brass was drilled with a 5.5mm drill and tapped with a 1/4" 32TPI UNEF tap, then turned durn to the appropriate diameters.
My best guesses and a bit of googling indicated that the brass should expand less than the aluminiun so the "fit" should loosen as the head heats up and tighten as the head cools down, so after carefully calculating the required diameters that would give me the optimum interference fit at the expected operating temperature I machined the insert until it felt like it was going to fit if I heated the head a bit....
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I then heated the head and pressed the thing in with a drill press and a drop of loctite, and cleaned up the seat and combustion chamber, and bingo!
PS. the machining purists will want to kill me for making the stepped hole with jobber drills and measuring the insert diameter with a vernier caliper but when you're doing an outside job at work in another department's workshop you try not to draw too much attention to yourself.
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#22
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: kaneohe,
HI
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[quote]ORIGINAL: bjr_93tz
Thanks Atlanta60.
If anyone out there wants to know, I drilled the remaining thread out with a 7.5mm drill then drilled in an 8mm hole from the combustion chamber side stopping about 1.5mm short. In effect creating a stepped hole with a 0.25mm ledge. This also means the OD of the glow plug washer is slightly larger than the OD of the brass insert at the top so it effectively stops the insert (and glowplug) from ''falling'' into the cylinder while the step stops it ''popping'' out the top.
[quote]
Wow Brett, that is some really good forsight. I would have just drilled through. Now if I can get my brain to remember this one when I need to use it...![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
DM
Thanks Atlanta60.
If anyone out there wants to know, I drilled the remaining thread out with a 7.5mm drill then drilled in an 8mm hole from the combustion chamber side stopping about 1.5mm short. In effect creating a stepped hole with a 0.25mm ledge. This also means the OD of the glow plug washer is slightly larger than the OD of the brass insert at the top so it effectively stops the insert (and glowplug) from ''falling'' into the cylinder while the step stops it ''popping'' out the top.
[quote]
Wow Brett, that is some really good forsight. I would have just drilled through. Now if I can get my brain to remember this one when I need to use it...
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
DM
#23
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: bjr_93tz
Thanks Atlanta60.
bla bla bla
I then heated the head and pressed the thing in with a drill press and a drop of loctite, and cleaned up the seat and combustion chamber, and bingo!
PS. the machining purists will want to kill me for making the stepped hole with jobber drills and measuring the insert diameter with a vernier caliper but when you're doing an outside job at work in another department's workshop you try not to draw too much attention to yourself.
Thanks Atlanta60.
bla bla bla
I then heated the head and pressed the thing in with a drill press and a drop of loctite, and cleaned up the seat and combustion chamber, and bingo!
PS. the machining purists will want to kill me for making the stepped hole with jobber drills and measuring the insert diameter with a vernier caliper but when you're doing an outside job at work in another department's workshop you try not to draw too much attention to yourself.
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Brett,
When you did the outside job at work in another department’s workshop and you did clean up that workshop after you were finished the way you did clean your engine seat before making the picture you will get a lot of attention the next time when you show up, maybe THEY want to kill you, so be careful. (LOL).
BTW I measure the temperature of the gasket during operation and flights and these temps are 175 degrees C during normal operation and over 200 degrees C when mixture leans. (347 a 392 F)
Cees
#24
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
C'mon TaurusFlyer give a poor guy a break ![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The copper washer seals on the shiny brass and aluminum "ring" not the cruddy looking anodised bit out near the fins.
I could have cut the seat a fraction lower, but when you have the head in a lathe spinning at about 900 rpm winding in a four flouted 1/2 inch endmill mounted in the tailstock and you can't see the seat because it's recessed, it takes a brave man to take "just one more cut"![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm a bit surprised they let me in there at all, but I did do a few fitting and machining modules during my Electrical apprenticeship. I even cut the thread for the leadscrew in the vice I had to make. Long time ago now....
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The copper washer seals on the shiny brass and aluminum "ring" not the cruddy looking anodised bit out near the fins.
I could have cut the seat a fraction lower, but when you have the head in a lathe spinning at about 900 rpm winding in a four flouted 1/2 inch endmill mounted in the tailstock and you can't see the seat because it's recessed, it takes a brave man to take "just one more cut"
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm a bit surprised they let me in there at all, but I did do a few fitting and machining modules during my Electrical apprenticeship. I even cut the thread for the leadscrew in the vice I had to make. Long time ago now....