lousyflyer

What's the easiest/best/safest/smartest/dumbest way to remove a stubborn thrust/drive washer from a TeeDee .09 so I can change the black plastic body housing?

Ram Jet

It's rumored that Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive puller. I would heat up the hub on your gas stove or with a propane torch, slip an open end wrench under the hub and with the prop screw fully threaded in the crankshaft give it a gentle rap with a plastic or wooden mallet.

Bill

vauxhall

Looks to be the same as the .051 method. Remove the head, cylinder, piston and rod assembly, remove the back plate. Put an old prop screw into the crank, stand the crankcase on a piece of flat wood and gently tap the prop screw downwards. The crank should slide right through.

build light

I always use the Cox wrench on the metal collar behind the drive plate. Use the part of the wrench that fits the glow plug but only has one tooth.
I would use a popsicle stick through the ports to keep the piston from going up and simply unscrew the collar. The drive plate should easily come off.
To press it back into place, screw the collar on first, then use the prop screw and a prop!

Robert

controlliner

Guys, Guys ,Guys. Remove the backplate, cylinder and piston. Put one of those black 6X32 cap screws in the front end. Place the crank case on a wood board andtap on the screw head with a hammer,(gently).
If you use the wrench method on the retaining collar (to remove the prop drive), the wrench will gouge the collar badly and make a mess. It will also crush the phenolic thrust washer in between.

tigrejohn

My Feedback: (7)

A correction before anybody screws up their crankshaft. The prop screw is a #5 x 40, not #6 x 32!!!

controlliner

The TD .049 is 5X40, The TD 09 is 6X32!!!!

Ram Jet

Yep, 5 x 40. Try to find THAT thread size. I bought a 3' piece of threaded rod and hence have a lifetime supply of the stuff.

Bill

build light

Quote by controlliner:
"Place the crank case on a wood board andtap on the screw head with a hammer,(gently).
If you use the wrench method on the retaining collar (to remove the prop drive), the wrench will gouge the collar badly and make a mess. It will also crush the phenolic thrust washer in between."

The Drive washer is a press on fit correct?

If this is true then a certain amount of pressure in PSI or the equivelent measure in Kg/cm is required for removal. Correct?

If the above is true then wouldn't the proper tool as mentioned above provide only the amount of pressure needed for removel and no more. I have never gouged any of my collars though even the proper tool, when used improperly can damage whatever you are working on.
I have never 'crushed' a thrust washer yet but if I do I will be sure to let someone know.

If anyone can tell me why the wrench was designed with that particular shape other than to use on the collar, let me know! Yes it will fit the glowhead but it does not provide as much leverage as the proper end with two tabs to fit the head shape.

Anyone know how much pressure is required to crush phenolic material?

Robert

build light

If you can find a pully puller that has enough span, reach and has jaws that will fit in the small space afforded by the notches in the collar then you would have the best tool for the job. Good luck with that.

Another thought is that any phenolic thrust washer that can be crushed by the slight pressure need for removal of the drive washer needed to be replaced with a new one anyway.

Robert

controlliner

Go to this site and read the manual on the Tee Dee series engines .

http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/...structions.pdf

It will tell you how to do it withoput damaging the engine

lousyflyer

Actually, I was afraid to hammer on the prop screw for fear of bending it, so I removed the backplate, cylinder, and piston and put the screw in the end of the crankshaft. I then placed it on the table of my benchtop drill press and used the chuck feed lever to press the crank out with the chuck of my drill- it worked like a charm. Another use for the $50.00 harbor freight drill press! And it wasn't even plugged in.

vauxhall

That's great LF, glad it all worked out well and you didn't break anything. Sometimes the quickest way to get a job done may first appear to be the slowest way.........John

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

The .09 uses a 6-32 screw, so if you bend it, it's no great loss...but I use a socket head cap screw, which is harder and less bendable...
A few taps with a light hammer...
I've also used the wrench on the collar method and it has worked too, but the wrench leaves marks on the collar.

engine049

Tee Dees and Medallions after years of neglect are annoying to disassemble and clean. This is my take apart routine.

Glow head, Gh gasket with right tool,

cramp engine in vise padded with Linoleum floor tiling cardboard PUT SOMETHING ON THE METAL JAWS something Do not scratch your engine!

Use Adjustable wrench to take off cylinder 3/4 maybe i don't remember. if piston is not moving, Grab a few pieces of thin cardboard Wrap around the drive plate atleast 5 times and grip like heck and twist until the piston is in the down position.

Then remove back plate with the back of a wrench If you cannot take it off do not force it! Try to use an old chefs knife back use leather glove to not cut yourself

Grab the engine put it in vice butt end up support temp put cyl back for back plate off taking.

Do not crush or scratch press down with all might on use the TD tool flat side hold tool with wrence or vice grips. center of 2 grooves and twist. A chefs knife can be used if it will not come off, vice grips around the edge is impossible.

If all elss fails get a chissle and beat and take it iff by hitting in the right direction. take it it off. Piston comes off always put piston in THAT cyl . Take prop off then out screw in screw as far as possible .

put engine on soft cotton or leinolium on top of concrete and begin to tap with the hammer to take the c shaft off "PAD a HARD surface with a towel or cardborad" on on a HARD area so the crank absorbs the force if you.

Don't smack it hard you will end up with an inchworm for prop screw! Tap tap easy does it.

Clean. 90+ alcohol, ammonia or carb cleaner (use well ventilated area) Also ammonia eats caluminum like butter being a hot knife but will corrode alum. I have a ultra sonic washer I have Full of ammonia. Careful exposing parts to ammonia more than 10 min. Purple dragon purple power purple stuff works great but corrodes alum if not worked with fast

paw080

Hi LousyFlyer, Just follow buildRight's instructions. Everyone else is doing it the hard...and incorrect way. Dale Kirn himself showed me how to do it,
which is the way BuildRight does it.

Tony G

Ram Jet

Thanks for this reference. I bought my first .049 Tee Dee about one month ago and my second two days ago. This is a great document.

Regards,
Bill

controlliner

No sweat. Martin H's site is a wealth of 1/2 A info I like it. Plus it has pictures