clancy lady bug
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Just thought I would write here because I wanted to praise the new Clancy Lady Bug.
I built mine with the 24" wingspan option, used Nelson light film, had pleanty of space and no weight problems using a Hitec superslim 8 channel receiver.
Used a GWS picostick motor for power (4.x gear reduction)
Lovely thing just floats there when I want it, or flys almost faster than I can control it within the dome when I go full power.
I get a nice 8 minute flight out of a 300mah NiMh pack.
Lots of stick cutting to build it, but well worth it.
A++++ airplane.
Roger
I built mine with the 24" wingspan option, used Nelson light film, had pleanty of space and no weight problems using a Hitec superslim 8 channel receiver.
Used a GWS picostick motor for power (4.x gear reduction)
Lovely thing just floats there when I want it, or flys almost faster than I can control it within the dome when I go full power.
I get a nice 8 minute flight out of a 300mah NiMh pack.
Lots of stick cutting to build it, but well worth it.
A++++ airplane.
Roger
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It's been a while since you posted about the ladybug, but I was just wondering, based on your experience, how do you think it might do w/ the 24" wing, a stripped hitec supreme receiver, a norvel .061 w/ throttle, a 250maH niMH 4-cell rx pack, and 3 hs-55s? I'm toying with the idea of a glow-powered backyard blaster to fly at my father's 2-acre hayfield, and have some equipment lying around without a home
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Let's start with the receiver. Due to noise problems where I fly, I ended up using a Hitec super supreme (w/case). the ladybug fuselage is narrow, but it will fit in from the top side.
The battery pack would be a little lighter than the 7-cell 270 NiMh pack I use, so maybe that would wash for the added weight of the third servo. I use a 9-gram knock-off micro servo availble on e-bay ($11.95 - a great price!)
What concerns me is the added weight of the norvel would turn this "floater" into something much less than that. Plus the fuse would need some significant strengthening to handle the engine vibration and torque.
While I have not flown this plane outside, on my arrangement it gives very commanding indoor flights. The only changes I plan to make is to install one of those micro-antennas so this tiny plane doesn't have this wire sticking out of the back end.
Roger
The battery pack would be a little lighter than the 7-cell 270 NiMh pack I use, so maybe that would wash for the added weight of the third servo. I use a 9-gram knock-off micro servo availble on e-bay ($11.95 - a great price!)
What concerns me is the added weight of the norvel would turn this "floater" into something much less than that. Plus the fuse would need some significant strengthening to handle the engine vibration and torque.
While I have not flown this plane outside, on my arrangement it gives very commanding indoor flights. The only changes I plan to make is to install one of those micro-antennas so this tiny plane doesn't have this wire sticking out of the back end.
Roger
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Go with the micro antenna. I am using two from E-Cubed on "outdoor" parkfliers and have good range with them. The plus is never getting that darn wire tangled up in the flying wires of my 'Duster.
BB See if you can find an old Ace kit for the GLH. It realy does Go Like He... ck!
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Roger,
Is the GWS setup you used the same as the pico tiger moth (IPS-DXA)? I have one of those looking lonely on the bench too, as shortly after I bought the TM, my father gave me one of those 280 DD conversion kits. Perhaps that setup is better suited to the ladybug. Or, perhaps as left coast Larry suggests, I should find a GLH, or better yet, build a littlest stick for backyard bombing.
Is the GWS setup you used the same as the pico tiger moth (IPS-DXA)? I have one of those looking lonely on the bench too, as shortly after I bought the TM, my father gave me one of those 280 DD conversion kits. Perhaps that setup is better suited to the ladybug. Or, perhaps as left coast Larry suggests, I should find a GLH, or better yet, build a littlest stick for backyard bombing.
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I finally got to fly mine yesterday. (more info in the other post)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...light=lady+bug
At 11.5oz and a PAW .033 diesel it had plenty of power, much much faster than I was expecting, and very powerful rudder.
I think it may be a tad tail heavy, as it appears to hang slightly tail down at the recommended balance point, and it is VERY sensitive to elevator. I'm going to add some nose weight before I fly it again and see how it does.
Very slow and nice landings..
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...light=lady+bug
At 11.5oz and a PAW .033 diesel it had plenty of power, much much faster than I was expecting, and very powerful rudder.
I think it may be a tad tail heavy, as it appears to hang slightly tail down at the recommended balance point, and it is VERY sensitive to elevator. I'm going to add some nose weight before I fly it again and see how it does.
Very slow and nice landings..
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I went ahead and ordered one and picked up a norvel .049 for it. Sadly, it's #3 in the building queue. I still have to finish my sig LT-25 kadet and then an ace T-6 before I build the 'bug. Or at least the sig anyway
. How was the build? I haven't even opened the plastic sleeve to look at the plans yet. I'm glad to hear it flies well with I.C.
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I found it very quick and easy to build, other that replacing alot of the wood from the kit which I thought was really poor. But there really isn't much to it! I think I built the wing in about 15 minutes, and the fuselage didn't take too long either, it builds very quickly there is so little wood to it.
I can't remember where I read it, but it is supposed to be a real "rocket" with an .049/.061! Have fun.
I can't remember where I read it, but it is supposed to be a real "rocket" with an .049/.061! Have fun.
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Ken,
Thanks for the encouragement! Now I might have to build that one sooner. From my first glances, it looks a lot like building those guillows FF jobs...so easy even a hack like me should be able to handle it.
BTW, last year someone gave me about $50 worth of balsa stock and covering tissue, so I'm good to go if the wood's bad. I picked up some coverlite and balsarite for this--any of you guys used this covering before?
Thanks for the encouragement! Now I might have to build that one sooner. From my first glances, it looks a lot like building those guillows FF jobs...so easy even a hack like me should be able to handle it.
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Well...
I added nose weight to get it "spot on" according to the plans, and switched from a 6X3 MA prop to a 7X3, thinking I'd get a bit slower flight. While it is mighty quiet, and the PAW .033 seems to turn it no problem, I couldn't get it to get enough airspeed to take off. On top of that, while it worked well last time, it was RIDICULUS on the ground. It would just groundloop all over, couldn't keep it in a straight line to save my life.
Changed back to the 6X3, and after several embarassing attempts, managed to get it about 3 feet into the air in an uncontrollable fashion before smashing it back into the ground. I don't know what happened. It flew quite well last time, but a bit tail heavy. I would of thought I'd made it a bit more stable, but today sure didn't confirm that. Very frustrating outing. I'm not sure what to try on it, or why it behaved the way it did today.
I added nose weight to get it "spot on" according to the plans, and switched from a 6X3 MA prop to a 7X3, thinking I'd get a bit slower flight. While it is mighty quiet, and the PAW .033 seems to turn it no problem, I couldn't get it to get enough airspeed to take off. On top of that, while it worked well last time, it was RIDICULUS on the ground. It would just groundloop all over, couldn't keep it in a straight line to save my life.
Changed back to the 6X3, and after several embarassing attempts, managed to get it about 3 feet into the air in an uncontrollable fashion before smashing it back into the ground. I don't know what happened. It flew quite well last time, but a bit tail heavy. I would of thought I'd made it a bit more stable, but today sure didn't confirm that. Very frustrating outing. I'm not sure what to try on it, or why it behaved the way it did today.
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I've used the BalsaLok and Coverlite before. It is not a favored covering methods. It was kind of a pain to have to paint the surfaces then wait for it to dry before ironing the covering down. Make sure you brush out the BalsaRite so it is thin and even, and allow it to dry before you start to work it.
It wasn't too easy to get the CoverLite to stretch around compound curves (like wing tips), and shrinkage is limited and somewhat tempermental. Its heavy, but it is puncture resistent.
Next time you want to try another covering material, RA MicroLite (AKA Solite) is much easier to use and shrinks easier and better, plus it has the glue on it already. It also weighs about a third of CoverLite. Static cling can be a problem, but a light dusting of talcum powder will help there. Colors look pretty good, and the silver does resemble aluminum.
Go to: http://www.homefly.com/ and see their 'coverings' heading for a fairly extensive list of available films and their relative weights.
It wasn't too easy to get the CoverLite to stretch around compound curves (like wing tips), and shrinkage is limited and somewhat tempermental. Its heavy, but it is puncture resistent.
Next time you want to try another covering material, RA MicroLite (AKA Solite) is much easier to use and shrinks easier and better, plus it has the glue on it already. It also weighs about a third of CoverLite. Static cling can be a problem, but a light dusting of talcum powder will help there. Colors look pretty good, and the silver does resemble aluminum.
Go to: http://www.homefly.com/ and see their 'coverings' heading for a fairly extensive list of available films and their relative weights.