Battery connectors
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These little connectors make soldering the Dean's Ultra almost foolproof.
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-5.html
check item # 2818 EZ connector. Solder to the wire then clip on the Deans plug and solder. Cover with heatshrink tubing.
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-5.html
check item # 2818 EZ connector. Solder to the wire then clip on the Deans plug and solder. Cover with heatshrink tubing.
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ORIGINAL: shannah
I use 4mm gold bullet connectors. easier to deal with all the way around. No Y connector, you don't have to rip the connector apart when you disconnect, soldering is a breeze. Plus, they are better at carrying high current loads.
I use 4mm gold bullet connectors. easier to deal with all the way around. No Y connector, you don't have to rip the connector apart when you disconnect, soldering is a breeze. Plus, they are better at carrying high current loads.
Ditto on bullets. I use 5.5 mm gold since that is what all my other lipos are set up for. Easy to solder, easy to work with, and never had an issue, even on some really high amp draw stuff (200+ amps).
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The 4mm ones you can get with a sleeve like this,
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...2810pcs/set%29
The bigger 5.5's you can do two things, have both sockets on the battery which have heat shrink on them, but this allows the potential for a reverse polarity connection. Or you slide fuel tubing over the male connector for insulation when you are not using it.
I use the 4mm ones in link from hobbycity, they are cheap, protect from reverse polarity connection, are fully insulated and the sleeve really minimizes any connection spark that you may get.
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...2810pcs/set%29
The bigger 5.5's you can do two things, have both sockets on the battery which have heat shrink on them, but this allows the potential for a reverse polarity connection. Or you slide fuel tubing over the male connector for insulation when you are not using it.
I use the 4mm ones in link from hobbycity, they are cheap, protect from reverse polarity connection, are fully insulated and the sleeve really minimizes any connection spark that you may get.
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I put a piece of large diameter fuel tubing over the male connector on the packs when not in use. I also stick a piece of plastic spiral wrap over the female connector for added protection. I cover the female connector with heat shrink tubing all the way and I also cover the base of the male connector with heat shrink. There is no exposed connector showing when the batts are connected.
And I always wire my packs the same way: Male connector on -, female connector on +. No way to get reverse polarity.
And I always wire my packs the same way: Male connector on -, female connector on +. No way to get reverse polarity.
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ORIGINAL: jhatton
Do the Deans Ultra's really handle the current loads of a pattern plane?
Do the Deans Ultra's really handle the current loads of a pattern plane?
I have maybe 1000 flights on 10S pattern planes with Deans and never had a problem nor felt them heat up. Everyone here has their own way and we are all successful so pick a way you might be comfortable with. If you use Deans, don't try and get away with the fake ones as I have seen some get pretty hot and are clearly not up to the task.
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What about anderson power poles, is anyone using those? they look like a good quality connector with a crimped connection
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ORIGINAL: jhatton
What about anderson power poles, is anyone using those? they look like a good quality connector with a crimped connection
What about anderson power poles, is anyone using those? they look like a good quality connector with a crimped connection
With the proper crimping tool AND the proper diameter wire, the connection is a very strong crimp that reduces it's size (loose) by 50%; a very strong mechanical connection. There is plenty of room to grip the plug and NOT the WIRES, they are color coded, and offer a few sizes for a range of applications. I was told to check Powerwerx.com.
I watched a few videos on connecting Deans plugs. I don't like the idea of soldering a big round wire to a small flat prong, I don't like the small size of the plug for disconnecting, and having no solder experience it seems like not the best idea for my prized Wind.
Still thinking about all this though...but most people I hear from seem to say that they use Deans, however the Deans are not necessarily the best for the application. Just because everyone is doing it may not be the best reason to get started with Deans.
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I just checked the weight of the power poles compared to the Deans...
The weight of 2 45A pins plus 2 plastic housings for the anderson power poles, which would be the equivalent to a male or female Deans plug, is 3 g making it 6g per plug.
The Weight of a Complete Deans plug is 5g
To combine 2 5cell packs I would need 3 complete deans plugs for a total of 15g plus some wire to make a Y harness
I can use seperate the plugs on the packs and plug leads together and save the harness with the power poles making the total weight 9g for the power poles...
I think I am going to go with the power poles
The weight of 2 45A pins plus 2 plastic housings for the anderson power poles, which would be the equivalent to a male or female Deans plug, is 3 g making it 6g per plug.
The Weight of a Complete Deans plug is 5g
To combine 2 5cell packs I would need 3 complete deans plugs for a total of 15g plus some wire to make a Y harness
I can use seperate the plugs on the packs and plug leads together and save the harness with the power poles making the total weight 9g for the power poles...
I think I am going to go with the power poles
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I am currently using the H.C Rhino packs, which are coming with 5.5mm bullets, both female on the pack. I was using deans, but changed over, I agree with all of the above with regards to them being easier to use, BUT you have to not rush the connections when putting the flight pack in the model as you could hook up to the wrong lead, correct red/black heat shrink was my answer. Matt
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ORIGINAL: matt13
I am currently using the H.C Rhino packs, which are coming with 5.5mm bullets, both female on the pack. I was using deans, but changed over, I agree with all of the above with regards to them being easier to use, BUT you have to not rush the connections when putting the flight pack in the model as you could hook up to the wrong lead, correct red/black heat shrink was my answer. Matt
I am currently using the H.C Rhino packs, which are coming with 5.5mm bullets, both female on the pack. I was using deans, but changed over, I agree with all of the above with regards to them being easier to use, BUT you have to not rush the connections when putting the flight pack in the model as you could hook up to the wrong lead, correct red/black heat shrink was my answer. Matt
I have seen that set up lead to disaster for a number of my boat buddies. I always wire mine with the female on the positive (red hot female) and black on the negative.
Makes it hard to connect incorrectly. I color cod the red/black that plug together to form the 10S series with white heatshrink so I know those are the ones that get plugged together. Now think what fun it is to connect 4 5S packs in a 10S2P configuration with dual power leads (2 red + 2 black) to the ESC. Let's just say that it is best done without distractions!!!
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The 4mm ones you can get with a sleeve like this,
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...2810pcs/set%29
The bigger 5.5's you can do two things, have both sockets on the battery which have heat shrink on them, but this allows the potential for a reverse polarity connection. Or you slide fuel tubing over the male connector for insulation when you are not using it.
I use the 4mm ones in link from hobbycity, they are cheap, protect from reverse polarity connection, are fully insulated and the sleeve really minimizes any connection spark that you may get.
The 4mm ones you can get with a sleeve like this,
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...2810pcs/set%29
The bigger 5.5's you can do two things, have both sockets on the battery which have heat shrink on them, but this allows the potential for a reverse polarity connection. Or you slide fuel tubing over the male connector for insulation when you are not using it.
I use the 4mm ones in link from hobbycity, they are cheap, protect from reverse polarity connection, are fully insulated and the sleeve really minimizes any connection spark that you may get.
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I use EC5 conectors from Hobbycity
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9194&Product_Name=EC5_5m m_Connector_(Pair)
While the bullet is hot from soldering i slide them into the outer plastic plug untill they rest up against the clip.
Then use a small flat screw driver down the side of the wire to push the bullet past the clip.
Works easy.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9194&Product_Name=EC5_5m m_Connector_(Pair)
While the bullet is hot from soldering i slide them into the outer plastic plug untill they rest up against the clip.
Then use a small flat screw driver down the side of the wire to push the bullet past the clip.
Works easy.
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Maybe that's my problem. I have been sliding the housing up the wire before soldering the bullet on. How hot is hot? I solder with a torch and have been letting them cool until I can just barely touch them.