gottabfordtough

do you think you could take the blade cp and turn the pitch down like two rotations of the linkage and it would have less +pitch and a higher head speed therefore making it more stable? make sence?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

heli needs x amount of pitch to lift the weight, changing the linkage probably wont do all that much but mess up the heli, now if you had throttle and pitch curve setups on the transmitter you might be able to boost the throttle curve and bring down the pitch curve to allow you to fly with higher head speed.

Technito20

Less pitch and more head speed will not make the Blade CP more stable. It's the designing of the heli which makes it unstable (swash plate efficiency, tail motor vibration etc). Basically the idle-up feature is what will fix the head speed and set the pitch to 0 degrees when the throttle is centered. At 0 degrees, the motor cannot possibly spin any faster. So it's pointless reducing the pitch for faster head speed trying to get more stability. The faster the head is spinning will only make the heli more responsive to perform aerobatics easier.

gottabfordtough

awwwe theory busted. thanks anyways.

Æ

The Oct/Nov 2005 issue of RC HELI Magazine did a review of the Blade CP. The reviewers opinion was that head speed was probably a little bit slow at 2300 RPM and that he would have prefered some more at 2500 RPM.
Several people here have commented about the need to use a smaller main motor pinion gear with the upgraded LiPo batteries (as per the manufactures guidelines). I'm not completely convinced that you can't just go with a larger battery without changing the motor/gearing. I'm thinking that changing to a larger battery but keeping the original main pinion gear will give a higher head speed and might add some stability? All the talk about burning up the 4in1 doesn't quite click with what I know about electricity/electronics. I'm thinking about hooking up an oscilloscope and voltmeter to the main motor and checking the voltages and current drawn with both the original and upgraded batteries etc.
Æ

hellomynameisdookie

It's the same way with electric cars and trucks. When you go to the hotter motors with less torque, you need to compensate by going down in pinion size. Ever feel the can of a 10t motor that's over pinion'd? It's hot at hell! So the pinion compensates for the lack of torque and decreases heat while pulling less amps. High amps kills electronics that can't handle them.

What a heli needs is a 2 speed tranny....haha jk, bl is the answer!

reiffron

i ran my blade once wth the 10 tooth pinion and a 3 cell lipo and the motor got pretty warm and i only hovered for a few minutes. i switched to a 9 tooth pinion and it was much better and yes i had a heat sink on booth times. i have heard of people running a 10 tooth pinion and 3 cell lipo with the stock 4 in 1 i just dont want to risk it. if you run all seperates it would probobly work great.

gottabfordtough

i already have the 3cell lipo and i put a 8t pinion on the stock motor i also have a heat sink it's fine. i was finding that with flat blades i should use a 8t and when i go to sym blades to also go to a 9t. the heli flies fine i just need to learn to keep it still. as a beginner usually does i end up just sitting around trying to think of ways to make it fly better and more stable. it's fine, it was just a theory.

1LO64

The shorter, wider blades made by Century + the 3Cell Lipo and 9 tooth pinion offers adequate head speed

grosporina

Err... I've read a few things on helicopter aerodynamics and everything I've read says higher head speed = higher stability, like gottabfordtough suggested, not the inverse.
But regardless, could you not test the effect by cranking up the throttle trim on the transmitter?
It's my understanding this trim is for throttle only, not mixed throttle+collective (someone correct me if I'm wrong, the manufacturer's info on this bird is sorely lacking and I have to beleive what people on the boards with more Blade CP time say) so cranking it up should give you higher head speed for wherever you set the collective(+throttle) lever.

rjm1982

Actually, your original idea is right

As long as you arent planning on using he idle up, do it, i turned my out 2 full turns. It was more stable...yeah, you get less lift, but stock it lifts off at just over 1/2 throttle, you've got some to spare. Higher headspeed DOES make a more stable helicopter...its simple physics... (think of a simple experiment, putting a small handle through a bike wheel/tire, hole the handle with the tire stopped...its hard to hold it upright, spin the tire and do it again, its hard to move the tire at all...rotation = stability)

thats the whole point of the flybar weights, it increases rotational mass which increases the stability of the flybar...

gottabfordtough

i knew i was on to something. i'm gonna try it.

catfight

/A>
It would be interesting to see an oscope screen capture of the 4in1 outputs for both main and tr. I am interested in the waveform for both to see what transients and possible switching problems that lead up to tr failure and how to solve it. Do you have that inclination and would you do it? Wish I had an oscope :0)

rjm1982

This is actually another good reason for a good transmitter...

I use a 7chp for the blade now...so nice...and i can adjust the pitch curves and throttle curves..talk about being able to really tweak a heli to your liking...

gottabfordtough

is that english?[&:]