av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I had bought the twister manifold for my Homelite 25cc, but I decided not to use it. It only allows mounting the carb one way; with the needles towards the engine. Besides that, with the engine mounted upright, the linkage would have been so high I would have had to cobble up some kind of a hook up anyway. So I went back to the old original manifold, and mounted the carb with the needles to the rear like I wanted them. Then a quick raid of the scrap box and I had the linkage all done. No big deal. One old nose wheel steering arm modified to fit the butterfly shaft, one ball link, one quick link, one bell crank, and an old "L" bracket and it's done and works perfectly.

Note: The metal pushrod going through the firewall is only about 1 1/2" long; it connects to an inner plastic nyrod. Also, check out my engine mounting system. It's lighter than making a plate mount, and easy to do. Nothing more than some homemade studs to hold the back plate on, that then go on through the firewall with nuts and washers behind.

Here's a pic to help someone else.

Take care,
AV8TOR

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Use all the same parts, but mount the angle bracket to one of the cylinder bolts. Then everything is self contained and moving the engine is a snap.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Hi,

Thanks, but removing it is easy as it is now. All I do is pop the ball link loose at the arm on the carb, and it's free.

Take care,
AV8TOR

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Not removing, but moving. As in plane to plane. With every thing on the engine its easier to swap planes.
Of course if you have more engines than planes not much of an advantage

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Oh now I got ya! Yes, I have a lot more engines that I've collected than planes. Get's expensive because it's real easy to want to buy a plane for every engine, then a radio for every plane..... ya! Since I got into these gas conversions a little over a year ago, I've bought or scratch built 5 or 6 new planes.

Thanks,
AV8TOR

Rambo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

What kind of power are you getting with the electronic ign, and do you know how much you were getting with the magneto?Also how can you tell if you've got a 25 or 33 CC. homelite?Lastly was it hard to convert such as removing excess metal,making back/mounting plate?I've got one of these in almost new condition looks like it may have came out of blower.I own a mini lathe but have never faced a flywheel. Oh well i guess that will be a new experiance.thanks for your help.[]

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Hi,

The Homelites make good power, but are a bit heavier when done than the Echo/Kioritz engines. They are not too hard to convert. I had nothing more than a hack saw, files, and a 3" grinder when I did this one, and I did it in an easy afternoon of work.

Generally electronic ignition doesn't get you much more power, just less weight and easier starting. However, with the Homelite, this may not be true as I saw one website for Homelites advertise a plate to mount the magneto ignition with more advanced timing and this gained power. So perhaps the original timing is a bit slow with the Homelites, and you can gain a little with electronic ignition by optimizing the timing. With 28 degrees of timing, a gutted muffler, and a slightly larger carb I got 8200 rpms on a 16 x 8 APC prop at sea level, first run with no fine tuning. Others have made more modifications and gotten a lot more. There is a way to tell the 25cc from the 30cc just by looking into the exhaust port, but I can't remember exactly what the difference is; maybe someone here can tell us.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

Turbobeaver

The easiest way to tell the 25 and the 30 apart is by the exhaust port.If it has a bridge across the port,it is a 25.If there is no bridge,it is a 30.On the newer Homelites ,you will also see a number cast onto a flat tab on the upper part of the cylinder.It will be a 5 digit number.The last numbers will usually be a 25 or a 30.This will designate which engine you have.This will not hold true for some older model Homelites.The Homelite company has been sold off many different times to different owners and the numbers cast into these older cylinders don't correlate to anything specifically.The exhaust port bridge and size of the connecting rod(larger on the 30),crankshaft counter balance(larger on the 30) are the easiest ways to tell these two engines apart.There may very well be variances to this rule of thumb but for the most part,these two engines haven't changed a whole lot over the years.The earlier Homelites would have utilized a cast crankshaft made all in one piece while the newer engines are utilizing a pressed together 3 piece crankshaft.Hope this helps you some.

AutoMike

I saw you can get the 30cc new now at home depot. The new 30cc ryobi is the very same engine. Just an FYI. Piper

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the info guys!

AV8TOR

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

MOST of the time the 25 is a single ring and the 30 is a twin ring. There are some older 30s with one ring though.

Rambo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks everybody for your input.I'm even more encouraged to go ahead and convert it now.

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

What is that 30 cc Homelite mounted in at Home Depot for $99?
Ron

Turbobeaver

The model number is CS-30.It is a Ryobi witha Homelite 30cc installed in it.Identical to the Homelite 30cc I am working on presently.I did a double take when I first saw it hanging on display at Home Depot.Hey man.......this aint a Ryobi 31 or a 28?What the heck?!!!I couldn't beleive it.Just when you thought ya had it all figured out and boys were boys and girls were girls............and now this.DOHHH!!![:@]..........Oh yeah,they sell for $179.99 here in Canada at our Home Depot's.Should be around the $120 US mark at your Home Depot's in the US.

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

OK, Let me see if I have this straight? A CS-30 Ryobi (WEEDEATER???) has a Homelite 30 motor in it? I am not looking for a blower, or edger, or vac, a saw, a posr hole digger or anything else.
Ron

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

Is that mounted to one of those heavy ultrasticks? How does it preform?

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Hi,

Yes, it is mounted to an Ultralite Stick 120 from Hangar 9. I'm not sure why you call it "heavy" though. It's really pretty light.

I'm still putting it together; I'll let you all know how it flies but please be patient as I don't have a lot of time to build and I'm adding smoke, etc.

Take care,
AV8TOR

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

They make, or made, 2 diffrrent versions of that plane. I have them both. I have had the :heavy" one for over 4 years. I originally flew it with a Homie 25. OK but not spectacular. I later put a 30 Homie with C@H on it and it was better. I just resently bought the new "lite" version. It is a LOT lighter. Look the at Hangar 9 web page for the details. I have not started working on my mew one yet, I have not decided on what motor to use. I may not work on it much for awhile. I just returned home from Hospital last night after back surgery with a bunch of hardware. YAHOO for good drugs.
Ron

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I've heard this combo of the newer Ultralite Stick and the Homelite works pretty well. We'll see...

Take care,
AV8TOR

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

This is how I did the carb linkage on mine.
Ron

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

Another picture me and the old stick.
Ron

Rambo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

4 stroke Ron is your's a 30 or 25 ? how about prop Rpms.? I just finished mine but it will only hit getting fuel ok but i had to use a old quadra coil that has a points eliminater.I'll probably try rob the coil off my blower tommorrow.If that don't fix it then theres a real problem.You guys just make a plate and seal it to the crankcase with gasket or RTV for yuor mount right?Any help appreciated.

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

That's a stock 25 with a ZAMA carb. It turns a 16X8 MAS at only 7400.
That particular installlation used a plate. But I usually just retap the stud holes in the rear of the case to 10/24 (whatever the exsisting metric threads in the holes are is very close to 10/24 anyway) and screw in (with loc tight) long 10/24 stubs made from allthread. Drill the holes in the fire wall and put nuts and washers on the inside. No mount.
Ron

Turbobeaver

Hi Ron,
That linkage that you are using is the exact same system that I am using.It works very well indeed.Had a few questions for you Ron.Is that a stock Zama carb that you are using which has the 7mm venturi?Lastly,in the picture of your linkage set up,I noticed your flywheel has a chunk of fin missing off of it.How did that hapen and does it affect engine balance.Just curious.