pgroom_68

Thanks for all the info people. I have today not working so I can try it outdoors at last. I have bought (from HongKong mainly) two of nearly every part that I can think of to get her up again in case of a mishap - so I should be OK now. But my Xtreme battery STILL hasn't arrived from Miracle-mart.[sm=confused.gif] The site says it was shipped - and the spare parts which I ordered from another site in HongKong a day later have already arrived here. I will give them another day - then email them!

Thanks again all.

Peter
O yes, Ms Darla - someone placed a link to a site that has them in [link=http://www.discountrctoys.com/_e/4_Channel_Helicopters/product/EK1H-E515A/Esky_Big_Lama_2_4GHz_RC_Remote_Control_Helicopter_ LiPo_RTF.htm]2.4gHz[/link] - if you have a big crash it may be worth changing then! I see they are out of stock now, so don't crash until after the Esky factory opens in mid Feb

Shadow99

Here's a trick for INCREASING CYCLIC RESPONSE on the BIG LAMA. Takes less than 5 minutes, cost nothing.

Remove the brass counter weights from the flybar, but keep the rubber boots attached. The lighter weight flybar reacts 10 times faster than the weighted flybar, at a slight loss in stability (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR NOOBIES).

I've been able to do "CRACK ROLLS" with my BIG LAMA, without stalling the head, or causing it to stall out in high banked turns.

My next "cheapy mod" replaces the rubbers on the flybar with small flybar paddles, I just need a new flybar to mod, and it seems NOBODY has parts in stock (a worldwide Big LAMA parts shortage)[:@]!

Shadow

tkeeg

Shadow99,
Thaks for the info.
What is a "Crack Roll" and what makes the head stall out on a fast turn?
Tkeeg

Shadow99

On a Counter-Rotator a "Crack-Roll" is being able to roll the heli 90' then snap it back to vertical without CRASHING!
Blade clearance between the upper and lower rotors is one factor, the other is the weight of the flybar.

More weight=more stability (less reactive to cyclic input), less weight=less stability (faster reaction to cyclic input).

The centrifical force on the flybar with the attached weights, slow the upper head drastically when you push the BIG LAMA into a hard banked turn, once the upper rotor looses headspeed, it yaws (from uneven torque), stalls and plummets to good 'ol Mother Earth.[:'(] Notice the lower rotor has no flybar or additional weights, ever notice when you throttle-down the lower rotor stops 1st & the upper keeps going do to the CF. Weighted blade tips on 700mm & larger blades have the same effect with CF.

I tried alot of these mods already on a Hirobo Shuttle XRB, homemade CF swashplate, flybar paddles. But it's useless outside in any breeze, and the foam blades have there limits as to how fast you can push them, before they snap off at the blade holder.

Shadow

pgroom_68

Thanks great info. Could you go through the steps needed to complete a bank turn please? Sounds like you are the man to hear from in regards to this - as I am doing something wrong and broke airy blades off at blade tips twice in one day![:@]

Peter

cat samich

tail motor on a coaxial? am i seeing this right? please tell me its a homemade mod for looks only...........





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUgq6...eature=related

Shadow99

Peter,
It takes alot of forward speed to complete a hard-banked turn, fly forward at a high rate of speed, decide which direction your gonna turn, roll cyclic quickly left or right, when the heli rolls 90 degrees, pull back on the cyclic & throttle up (hard-bank), then quicky roll the cyclic back so the heli is level again. If you forget to throttle up or give back cyclic during the hard-bank, the rotors will lose headspeed & you'll fall.

Cat samich,
No, there is no active tail motor on a Big Lama, it's just for looks, spins when it wants too.

Shadow

pgroom_68

Thanks shadow, that is what I was doing - maybe not quick enough on the "roll the cyclic back so the heli is level again." bit. I have heaps enough FF speed to complete it usually (the wall marks at the end of the basketball court will testify to this) - and am trying to do LEFT banks - but twice have just failed somewhere. Sorry, I don't have a video camera.
Reading your words again, what do you mean by "...or give back cyclic during the hard-bank...".
I think that I am doing the correct things now - just can't quite get there! Man that's frustrating![:@] Another Airy blade snapped off at the root!

Peter
UPDATE: I did ONE just fine then! yaaaaay - thanks heaps man - you're the greatest!

Shadow99

Peter,

When you bank 90' left or right, the controls roll 90 degrees as well, therefore pulling back on the cyclic now pulls the heli around the turn. Once you exit the turn if you don't roll back level fast enough, coaxials lose altitude FAST! That's why I also recommended kicking the throttle up during the "pull-back" stage of the turn.

It's alot of stuff happening: Fast Forward Flying to roll 90 degrees, throttle-up & pull back (complete turn), roll out level continuing to FFF.
All I can say is PRACTICE> PRACTICE> PRACTICE!

I thought those AIRY HARDEN II blades were supposed to be NUKE PROOF! Is it cold where you fly? I saw the video on Youtube of a LamaV3 repeatedly being crashed into a concrete wall, with no blade damage. Another of a guy striking the blade over & over again with an aluminum bar, then bending them into a "G" shape.
What do you mean you keep breaking blades?[] That's not right, defective blades!?[:'(]

Rick

pgroom_68

Hey again Rick,
No it is not cold here - today is 32ºC (in Sydney - not far!) But I fly indoors each month in a High Ceiling BB court. I also watched that video - it is kinda right. My Airy IIs will bend like that also (if I am game to try) but when getting enough speed up and the forces involved and splat. But sometimes I get it right now - thanks to you! I don't think my blades are defective - just the pilot!

Thanks for your help - I guess I just need to keep trying them (now that I am sure that I am doing all the correct things)

Peter

pgroom_68

How are the rest of the "silent majority" going flying their Big Lamas? YES - I MEAN YOU!!!

Peter

meaves

Hey guys, just joined, decided to get into RC a few weeks ago, still learning a lot, ordered the Big Lama from ushobbysupply, must say it was the fastest shipping I have ever had (Thanks Michael, will be doing business again). It was out the door 2 hours after I ordered it and was here in 3 days. I have been practicing on a FS for a couple of weeks so when I first flew the Lama it was still a little difficult to control for first few minutes but man it was fun. One problem I am having is it starts to glitch like the servo is hitting something and then it starts spinning around. Since I am new to this hobby is this normal when battery wears down or do I need to adjust something. Thanks

pgroom_68

Hey meaves,

Yes. Michael is great. I buy things from him all the time even though he is on the other side of the world from me - he is that good!
This is not a normal occurance as the battery get low - I have never heard of this before! The servo is making fast sudden movements then hitting the stop at the end of its throw resulting in spinning?? I would say @ <$10 each, REPLACE THE SERVO! They are cheap [link=http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=745&osCsid=5 a11b2b0f21394820e8233f339e16bfb]EK2-508 Servo[/link] EMAIL MICHAEL FIRST AND TELL HIM SYMPTOMS - HE MAY SEND YOU ONE FOR FREE!! They are a plug & play sort of deal anyway - no soldering irons needed!
To help you with this any further we all have to know a bit more about the "glitch". Which way is it spinning? (CW or CCW) How fast is it spinning? Does the servo reach this hard endpoint when heli is in your hand - which servo "Aileron (Port) or Elevator (Starboard) is doing the glitching?[8D]
We will have your Big Lama up & flying again in no time.[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Peter
P.S. Are you unplugging heli battery THEN switching off Tx - this is the correct order - very important!

MsDarla

Yesterday I landed my heli in a tree when the battery was low it was across the yard the wind took it away from me again.
Good thing it was only 15 ft high in the branches. []

tkeeg

Need Help with 2.4 GHz conversion !

I have a question that I was hoping someone on this thread might be able to answer. I recently got the Esky Big Lama with the 72 MHz radio system. I purchased a Spektrum AR6000 receiver to use in the Big Lama so that I could control it with my Spektrum DX7 Transmitter which I use for all of my airplanes. I removed the Esky 6 channel receiver and plugged the 3-in-1 controller of the Big Lama into the AR600 receiver. I made sure that two 2 leads coming from the controller went into the proper Throttle & Rudder channels on the AR6000 and also made sure that the two servos went into the correct Elevator & Aileron channels. I performed the binding procedure on it and it powered up perfectly. All of the controls, (ruder, throttle, aileron & elevator), worked perfectly so after about a minute I shut the power off to put the Big Lama body back on. When I started it back up, the light on the 3-in-1 would flash red twice, then just stay a solid red and I could not get a lock on the receiver. I removed the receiver from the Big Lama and tested it on my work bench. I found that the Rudder channel on the receiver, along with the Gear and Aux 1 channels were now not working, however all of the other channels did work. The 3-in-1 on the helicopter would not set itself because the Rudder channel was somehow burned out. I took the receiver apart and there is no obvious sign of damage or burning. Thinking, that it was just a fluke, I repeated the experiment with a second AR6000 receiver and got the exact same results. It worked perfect for a minute then burned out the Rudder channel of the receiver. (Ouch…$100.00 out the window!) I checked the voltage coming from the 3-in-1 and found that the voltage from both the Throttle and Rudder leads were both at exactly 5.0 volts, well within the range of the AR6000. Does anybody know why this happened and have a solution for it. Fortunately, when I hooked the original Esky 6 channel receiver back up to the 3-in-1, it worked perfectly. I know that the newer E-Flight Coaxial Helicopters use a 3-in-1 with the AR6000 receiver with no problems. Is there something in the Esky version 3-in-1 that is just not compatible with the Spektrum receivers? I would appreciate any advice or help in this matter.
Tom

pgroom_68

Hey again Shadow,

Sorry to "steal" your idea. But, as you can see below - I've just tried paddles (from my DF#4)
It does Xtreme Manouvers better than original IMO - like crack rolls and FFF due to torque?) - but is DEFINATELY NOT WHAT A NEWBIE WOULD WANT TO DO!

Peter
UPDATE: My bird is temporarily down due to no power to one motor. It may be the 3in1.

tkeeg

Successful 2.4 Conversion on Big Lama
Well after burning out two Spektrum AR6100 receivers in my attempts to convert my Big Lama to 2.4 GHz so I could use my DX7 transmitter, I finally had success! I can’t say for certain, but It seems that the micro circuitry in the AR6100 is not strong enough to handle the amperage from the 370 size motors and blew out the rudder channel in both of my micro receivers during each of my attempts. (Yes, two receivers and $100.00 out the window).
Today I tried again, only this time is used the heavier Spektrum AR7000 receiver. I plugged the throttle lead coming from the 3-in-1 into the throttle channel on the receiver. I plugged the rudder lead coming from the 3-in-1 into the rudder channel on the receiver and plugged the aileron & elevator servos into their respective channels on the receiver, (just like I did with the micro AR6100 receiver), but this time with the larger, heavier AR7000 receiver, it all worked perfectly!
I took the Big Lama for a test spin and everything worked great. Now I have expo control and can set more servo throw by increasing my end point adjustments on the transmitter.
The weight of this receiver, along with its satellite antenna came out to 18 grams on my scale. I weighed the Esky 6 channel FM receiver that came with the Big Lama, along with the antenna wire and the drinking straw that I used to feed the antenna through my fuselage, and that was also 18 grams. (So no more weight than the stock FM set up).
One thing to keep in mind, the AR7000 receiver will not work unless the satellite antenna is plugged into it. I Put some sticky backed Velcro on it and stuck it to the inside floor at the tip of the nose of the helicopter. It flies great with no balance problems.
Tom

pgroom_68

Hey again Tom,

That's great news. You solved your own problems then? At expense! Sounds like you are a pioneer at this changeover. It also sounds like you are going to have more control due to better manipulation from the ground.

Peter

tkeeg

Thanks Peter, yes I am excited about being able to use my DX7. Now if I can just get a couple days that are not windy. I had a 1 hour window this afternoon where the winds were under 6 mph. That is when I tested the new setup. Since then the winds are back to 12 to 15 mph.
Your stabilizer modification looks great! What are the benefits and where did you get the paddles from?
Tom

pgroom_68

Hey again Tom,

I got the paddles from my DF#4 (FP) parts box. A while ago I replaced them with Super-paddles from Super-skids (WOW - what an improvement in "cyclic control"(? - I'm not sure if this is the right term) doing that gave to the DF#4). I had a few spare wheel collars also.
I have been doing exactly what Shadow said and practice>practice>practice my manouvers - well I think I am getting better at them anyway, but the paddles just gave me that between feeling of - not so much stability that it won't do much but hover & a slow FF, and total instability that I got when I removed the flybar weights entirely (leaving the black plastic ends as indicated).
The reason I indicated that this is not for newbies (who generally want MORE stability on hover) is because I don't want to be responsible for anyone hacking into flybars and not being able to reattach the hooks on the ends.

Peter
P.S. I am awaiting a new canopy with baited-breath as mine has seen the wars... Roll on Esky factory reopening (mid-Feb - parts should be available by end Feb)

tkeeg

Peter, here is an easy way to test your 3-in-1 to see if that is the cause of your motor problem. Pull the throtte wire and the rudder wire from the 3-in-1 out of your receiver. Plug in the helicopter battery and use a voltage tester with very thin needle like leads to touch the red & white terminals of each of the leads from the 3-in-1 that plug into the receiver. (Look at the end of the wires coming from the 3-in-1 there is a black plastic plug that plugs into the receiver. Look closely and you will see tiny openings in the plastic plug on one side were the metal of the wires inside is exposed. This is where you touch your leads from the voltage tester). There should be 5.0 volts between the red & black wires on each lead. If you get no reading then there is something wrong.
Also, I have read in the Lama 4 forums that many people break in their motors by hooking a 1.5 volt battery to the motor terminals and letting them run for a while. (Remember that the Lama 4 is a 7.4 volt helicopter not an 11.1 volt). You could try this same approach to see if your actual motor is bad or not. Get a battery and touch the leads from the battery to each terminal of the motor and see if it powers up. I'm just not sure of what voltage to use. I don't think that 1.5 volts would be enough. I would start off with maybe 5 volts, but don't use more than 11 volts.
Tom

pgroom_68

Hey again & thanks Tom,

I tried a few things (plugging each motor in turn into each motor terminal of 3in1 first) and found that it is the motor to centre shaft - the fore motor! Phew! I was sure I'd have to fork out for a new 3in1. The first clue I got was the green light was steady. The weird thing is that when hand-spun to start, the dud motor performs really well for the rest of its range - and down again![sm=confused.gif]. It just won't start by itself! Well, it looks as though it IS time to put in those Xtreme motors and fuses. Yes, I will run a battery through with half or less throttle to let the carbon brushes bed into the armiture correctly - thus getting a better match between the two and more power later!

Peter

ViperX35

Spektrum problems...
I have cnverted my BIG to 2.4GHz Spektrum RX and TX... i used the RX from my old CX2 it has the Spektrum AR6100e RX.
And my trusty DX6i as the TX.
If i use the 3in1 from my CX2 i get the motor to funktion but if I use the 3in1 that was on the BIG I get servos to work but no power to the motors.

Any idea on what can be wrong?

Thanx,

ViperX

aerobob427

Hi Michael,

The Big Lama comes in different colors? I' ve seen one listed as white and you mentioned blue ones. I've only seen pictures and videos of the red, white, and blue. What's the difference? And do you have any left?

Bob

USHobbySupply

I have only seen the one color. I have check the esky site, and only see the one color also.

I'm awaiting notification that more are on the way, but it will be at least several weeks

M