Need Help!!! Tygon vs Viton
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OK, I've read until I'm blue in the face about the use of these two tubing's. I looked at and called McMaster Carr and asked about the Viton tubing. It is specified for use with Elthelene Glycol and water. The only tubing in our sizes for the tanks are specified as Tygon and specified for use with gasoline. So if you are using Viton for gasoline then where are you getting it and does it degrade? I'm about to plumb my first gas use tank and want to use the right materials but I can't seem to get a consesus on what and where to get the proper product. Help would be appreciated ASAP.
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
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Try this tubing
http://www.taildraggerrc.com/gas-eng...cessories.html
scroll down..Tygon works great, also, I would still replace your tubing each year that is inside the tank. The tubing will not get stiff if some gas is left inside the tank but for me I keep my tanks dry so the tygon will stiffen up over time. Try the blue tubing from www.taildraggerrc.com I think it is better.
http://www.taildraggerrc.com/gas-eng...cessories.html
scroll down..Tygon works great, also, I would still replace your tubing each year that is inside the tank. The tubing will not get stiff if some gas is left inside the tank but for me I keep my tanks dry so the tygon will stiffen up over time. Try the blue tubing from www.taildraggerrc.com I think it is better.
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Thanks guys for the advice............this getting old and still having to learn new stuff is challanging to say the least especially when you don't want to do it wrong.
Cheers,
Andy
Cheers,
Andy
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I have been using Viton exclusively in 7 gas planes for over 2 years now, will never use Tygon again. No need to replumb the fuel system every year as I had to do with Tygon. Get mine from McMaster Carr sku 5119K4 1/8 in ID, 1/4 OD, 1/16" Wall Black. Not cheap though, last order was $3.85 per foot. Have been told of other sources for it by other giant scale gas guys that gave up on Tygon also, but I can't remember where they said they get it. It stays pliable unlike Tygon, gasoline doesn't seem to efffect it at all. Fuel line from lawn mower shops may also be an altermative.
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ORIGINAL: TimBle
try your local Stihl dealership for VITON tubing.<div>It's superor to Tygon and cheaper</div>
try your local Stihl dealership for VITON tubing.<div>It's superor to Tygon and cheaper</div>
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Overf here I ask for fuel tubing ans they sell it to me by the 1m length. All they asked me was what diameter and I said 3mm and he said " yup, got that in stock."<div>Tygon is around $8 / metre, the Stihl Viton tubing (actually just a generic automotove ViTON tube) is $5/metre.</div><div>I could probably get it cheaper if I could find a scooter mechanic who carries that diameter but most start at 3.5mm</div>
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ORIGINAL: oldtyme
OK, I've read until I'm blue in the face about the use of these two tubing's. I looked at and called McMaster Carr and asked about the Viton tubing. It is specified for use with Elthelene Glycol and water. The only tubing in our sizes for the tanks are specified as Tygon and specified for use with gasoline. So if you are using Viton for gasoline then where are you getting it and does it degrade? I'm about to plumb my first gas use tank and want to use the right materials but I can't seem to get a consesus on what and where to get the proper product. Help would be appreciated ASAP.
Thanks,
Andy
OK, I've read until I'm blue in the face about the use of these two tubing's. I looked at and called McMaster Carr and asked about the Viton tubing. It is specified for use with Elthelene Glycol and water. The only tubing in our sizes for the tanks are specified as Tygon and specified for use with gasoline. So if you are using Viton for gasoline then where are you getting it and does it degrade? I'm about to plumb my first gas use tank and want to use the right materials but I can't seem to get a consesus on what and where to get the proper product. Help would be appreciated ASAP.
Thanks,
Andy
I've written about this in several other threads. Viton is bullet proof and the stuff you get from McMaster Carr works great in gasoline applications. Once you install it, you probably won't need to check it again, chances are. At nearly $4 a foot it's expensive tho....
I have found a great alternative in the same McMasterCarr website. Look under Polyuerthane (Tygothane) tubing and go for the stuff for Biodiesel. It's ester based and it works super in gasoline apps for model planes. You want the 1/8" ID x 1/32" wall. Cost is 1/10 that of Viton. My plumbing is in for 3 years and counting and the PolyU is still flexible practically like new. Try it.
Another thing I have been doing for some time is a good practice and worth repeating. If your fittings are straight with no barbs, you should also install a tubing sleeve doubler over the tubing end that attaches to the fitting. I cut a 1/8"-1/4" length if tubing and slip it over the end of needle nose or hemostat. I open the jaw to stretch the piece and then slip the tubing inside. The doubler necks the tubing down nicely yet it allows a slip on fit over the straight fitting. After a little while the tubing is on almost permanently and may need to be cut to be removed. It is absolutely leak free.
Barbed fittings don't need doublers usually, but they may help there too if there is a leak somehow
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I've been using the 3mm black stuff, but had a problem in a recent application with a Saito FG-20 when I replaced all my Tygon. The fault was increased resistance in the draw of fuel from the tank to the carby which the engine struggled to overcome. More specifically, my vent tube was too long and thin and was more liable to pinching. Anyway, I went back to Tygon for the vent (which seems stiffer, a bit wider and less prone to pinching) which solved the problem.
I guess my suggestion is that if you have a long run of tubing (more than 50cm), the slightly stiffer Tygon might be better. I agree with everyone else's comments about using the black stuff within the fuel tank, the Tygon tends to stiffen up too much, clunks have limited movement and/or fall off etc.
I guess my suggestion is that if you have a long run of tubing (more than 50cm), the slightly stiffer Tygon might be better. I agree with everyone else's comments about using the black stuff within the fuel tank, the Tygon tends to stiffen up too much, clunks have limited movement and/or fall off etc.
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just ordered some tygothane on sunday through McMaster, had it shipped to work and it came in today, $36 for 100' shipped, $.36/ft is very similar to the $.25/ft for fish tank hose...
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ORIGINAL: MTK
Andy,
I've written about this in several other threads. Viton is bullet proof and the stuff you get from McMaster Carr works great in gasoline applications. Once you install it, you probably won't need to check it again, chances are. At nearly $4 a foot it's expensive tho....
I have found a great alternative in the same McMasterCarr website. Look under Polyuerthane (Tygothane) tubing and go for the stuff for Biodiesel. It's ester based and it works super in gasoline apps for model planes. You want the 1/8'' ID x 1/32'' wall. Cost is 1/10 that of Viton. My plumbing is in for 3 years and counting and the PolyU is still flexible practically like new. Try it.
Another thing I have been doing for some time is a good practice and worth repeating. If your fittings are straight with no barbs, you should also install a tubing sleeve doubler over the tubing end that attaches to the fitting. I cut a 1/8''-1/4'' length if tubing and slip it over the end of needle nose or hemostat. I open the jaw to stretch the piece and then slip the tubing inside. The doubler necks the tubing down nicely yet it allows a slip on fit over the straight fitting. After a little while the tubing is on almost permanently and may need to be cut to be removed. It is absolutely leak free.
Barbed fittings don't need doublers usually, but they may help there too if there is a leak somehow
ORIGINAL: oldtyme
OK, I've read until I'm blue in the face about the use of these two tubing's. I looked at and called McMaster Carr and asked about the Viton tubing. It is specified for use with Elthelene Glycol and water. The only tubing in our sizes for the tanks are specified as Tygon and specified for use with gasoline. So if you are using Viton for gasoline then where are you getting it and does it degrade? I'm about to plumb my first gas use tank and want to use the right materials but I can't seem to get a consesus on what and where to get the proper product. Help would be appreciated ASAP.
Thanks,
Andy
OK, I've read until I'm blue in the face about the use of these two tubing's. I looked at and called McMaster Carr and asked about the Viton tubing. It is specified for use with Elthelene Glycol and water. The only tubing in our sizes for the tanks are specified as Tygon and specified for use with gasoline. So if you are using Viton for gasoline then where are you getting it and does it degrade? I'm about to plumb my first gas use tank and want to use the right materials but I can't seem to get a consesus on what and where to get the proper product. Help would be appreciated ASAP.
Thanks,
Andy
I've written about this in several other threads. Viton is bullet proof and the stuff you get from McMaster Carr works great in gasoline applications. Once you install it, you probably won't need to check it again, chances are. At nearly $4 a foot it's expensive tho....
I have found a great alternative in the same McMasterCarr website. Look under Polyuerthane (Tygothane) tubing and go for the stuff for Biodiesel. It's ester based and it works super in gasoline apps for model planes. You want the 1/8'' ID x 1/32'' wall. Cost is 1/10 that of Viton. My plumbing is in for 3 years and counting and the PolyU is still flexible practically like new. Try it.
Another thing I have been doing for some time is a good practice and worth repeating. If your fittings are straight with no barbs, you should also install a tubing sleeve doubler over the tubing end that attaches to the fitting. I cut a 1/8''-1/4'' length if tubing and slip it over the end of needle nose or hemostat. I open the jaw to stretch the piece and then slip the tubing inside. The doubler necks the tubing down nicely yet it allows a slip on fit over the straight fitting. After a little while the tubing is on almost permanently and may need to be cut to be removed. It is absolutely leak free.
Barbed fittings don't need doublers usually, but they may help there too if there is a leak somehow
I bought some of that blue tubing from taildraggerrc, and I have 5' of Viton coming from McMaster-Carr and I looked up the Tygothane you suggested and will be ordering 25' of that stuff tomorrow.
Thanks for all the advice,
Andy
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For an answer to your question, see posts #2 and #8 above. You will be able to contact taildraggerrc with the link to find out. The order took no time at all to get here!!!!
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ORIGINAL: Beavis
Thank you, but I could find no answer to the question on the ''tubing sleeve doubler'', as mentioned in post # 13.
Thank you, but I could find no answer to the question on the ''tubing sleeve doubler'', as mentioned in post # 13.
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<div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; ">Does the Tygothane flex good with the clunk? The clunk in my tank barely comes up halfway when flipped over. I most likely wont be flying the plane it is in upside down much, but it would still be nice to have the clunk moving properly.</div>