NGH 38CC 4 stroke
#476
If pilot can prime manually any gas engine from carb mouth, then no need to apply choke but otherwise choke seems a must to be able to start. Secondly I recommend to keep throttle on idle position to keep running after start up until some warm up.
#478
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O.K...... so I actually had the thing running, but very slow, wouldn't accelerate. My thinking, too rich. I wound the adjustments all the way in, they took around 3.5 turns to wind in. I was led to believe that the ideal setting from the factory was 1.5 turns out from nil. How the hell do you end up with an engine from the factory with 3 turns out from nil? They say they run every engine before it leaves the factory.... can't see how this could have been run!!!!
Have leaned down the mixture, closer to 1.5 turns out from nil, haven't had a chance to try it there, ran out of time. My electric starter struggles to turn this through compression (Kavan geared starter!!) so I had to turn through with a chicken stick. Trailing edge of propeller is now damaged. Couldn't get the engine to fire again, would have been better if I hadn't had to stop the engine to make adjustment. The way they have the adjustment screws facing rearward makes it really difficult to get a screwdriver onto them, especially while the engine is running. The fierwall is in the way!!!!!!!
Will try again tomorow, have another prop to put on. Will charge battery for electric start and try again. Another question: why don't any of these engine manufacturers use a Left-hand thread on their prop shafts? Putting the starter on the shaft unwinds the prop nuts!!!!! Left-hand thread would solve this issue but none of them do it!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrr!!!
Have leaned down the mixture, closer to 1.5 turns out from nil, haven't had a chance to try it there, ran out of time. My electric starter struggles to turn this through compression (Kavan geared starter!!) so I had to turn through with a chicken stick. Trailing edge of propeller is now damaged. Couldn't get the engine to fire again, would have been better if I hadn't had to stop the engine to make adjustment. The way they have the adjustment screws facing rearward makes it really difficult to get a screwdriver onto them, especially while the engine is running. The fierwall is in the way!!!!!!!
Will try again tomorow, have another prop to put on. Will charge battery for electric start and try again. Another question: why don't any of these engine manufacturers use a Left-hand thread on their prop shafts? Putting the starter on the shaft unwinds the prop nuts!!!!! Left-hand thread would solve this issue but none of them do it!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrr!!!
#480
Join Date: May 2006
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good info keep us updated still are these motors as smooth as dle 30.
And if it is in a cowl how do you squirt gas in it every time you want to start it. does the choke not work?
And if it is in a cowl how do you squirt gas in it every time you want to start it. does the choke not work?
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#482
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Yes, the choke does work. Be shy about wet priming this engine if you mount it inverted. It is easy to flood this engine, or worse. The last thing you want is to cause a hydraulic lock and maybe bend the rod.
Friday, out at the field (of course), my NGH38 would start but not rev up. Back home I found the screen in the carb blocked with a fine, flesh-colored substance. Once cleaned it runs great again. I do run a filter, go figure...
Friday, out at the field (of course), my NGH38 would start but not rev up. Back home I found the screen in the carb blocked with a fine, flesh-colored substance. Once cleaned it runs great again. I do run a filter, go figure...
#485
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So... another lunchtime engine run completed. Did put a small splash of fuel down the gobbler and got it running using electric start. Had to close down due to engine mount bolts rattling loose!!! Gave things a tweak towards lean and started again. Yay!!!! we make noise!!!! Leaned up the High rpm further and then played around with the Low rpm, rpm too low on throttle and quit. Started again and got the idle down to 2400 rpm with a 18x8 wooden prop. Have only run about 250 ml of fuel through it so far. Long way to go, hope to put more through tomorow.
There is hope!!!
There is hope!!!
Last edited by ALFIEV; 01-20-2014 at 06:08 PM.
#486
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Nice I hope my motor runs good will fire her up this week and I got my aero works gt trainer in and this motor fits perfect in the cowl just cut a little out for the rocker cover and exhaust pipe.but will run the motor 1st to make sure it is reliable I don't care if it don't make lots of power just dependable.
#489
As long as you dont try to have to low idle I dont think that will be a problem. The fieseler storch I hav is a balsa plane from black horse. and it is not a problem. But it helps to have a large prop. I use 20X8 on the storch. If you look at the video on post 409 page 17. at 5:30 it runs ok now. That is the one with 3 piston rings. I think it is the same as the pro version, but it is not black and have only one center nut for the prop.
#490
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Thanks I will be using a 18x8 and I will idle about 2000 be ok I hope this plane only has a 88 inch wing like at 13 pounds
and I will run about 2 gallons through it before I mount it.
Have you had any problems with anything coming off the motor like loose carb or rocker cover.
and I will run about 2 gallons through it before I mount it.
Have you had any problems with anything coming off the motor like loose carb or rocker cover.
Last edited by shorte; 01-20-2014 at 05:11 PM.
#492
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I have not run a wood prop on mine, as the Master Airscrew Classic props are heavy and help with a low idle (flywheel effect). I finally drilled my prop for the four bolts. Note that you must use the big nut also, unlike some other engines. (Ask me how I know!)
Forget my advice about using a welder's glove to start the engine. I finally got wacked smartly the other day and yes, it stung! An electric starter with a 4 cell lipo is safer.
Forget my advice about using a welder's glove to start the engine. I finally got wacked smartly the other day and yes, it stung! An electric starter with a 4 cell lipo is safer.
#494
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"Forget my advice about using a welder's glove to start the engine"
Well.... I did try with a welder's glove, but didn't have any luck.... had more luck with the electric starter. I admit I am probably a bit timid with the hand flip..... will heed your warning and persist with the electric starter.
"So what about a spinner wonder if it will come loose."
I've been thinking about this, I retract my statement regarding Left-hand thread. I think the problem would be that the direction of rotation when the engine is running would tend to loosen the prop nut, but yes.... it does raise a problem with electric start on a spinner unless the spinner can be locked to the prop or prop shaft. I do want to make a spinner for my corsair for this engine.
More to think on........
Well.... I did try with a welder's glove, but didn't have any luck.... had more luck with the electric starter. I admit I am probably a bit timid with the hand flip..... will heed your warning and persist with the electric starter.
"So what about a spinner wonder if it will come loose."
I've been thinking about this, I retract my statement regarding Left-hand thread. I think the problem would be that the direction of rotation when the engine is running would tend to loosen the prop nut, but yes.... it does raise a problem with electric start on a spinner unless the spinner can be locked to the prop or prop shaft. I do want to make a spinner for my corsair for this engine.
More to think on........
#496
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Another 250 mls through it today..... only 9.5 litres to go until it's run in. Struggled to get it started. Turned out it needed a good dollop of fuel down the inlet and the benefit of my electric starter. I think I'm going to need a new starter. I have a good quality Kavan geared starter, but it had smoke curling from it today
Any suggestions on a strong starter?
Any suggestions on a strong starter?
#498
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No, the timing is as set by the factory, as far retarded (pick-up as far in the direction of rotation) as possible without modifying the groove to enable further retarded setting. Will run more fuel through it first, but may modify the slot later on if I can't get things starting better. Yes, I too want to avoid too much fiddling once fitted to the frame. That is why I am going to run the bejesus out of it before I fit it to anything.