mikemnh

My Feedback: (8)

I just got a free bottle of Fuji oil with a new Fuji 32. It said 150:1 mix. I put it aside and thought "not for me". I justed checked Tower and saw they sell the oil for $39.95 a bottle (small bottle)!!!!! Does anyone know anything about this 150:1 oil and why Fuji may be pushing it when they've always said "our engines are designed to run on 40:1 and will last, etc."?

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

This is pretty unbelievable. It's not even synthetic. And, WOW, $39.99 for 8 oz. That makes a gallon of gasoline mix cost ($4.27 oil, $2.00 gasoline) $6.27.

FEATURES: Petroleum Based
Brown in color
Mixes in fuel with a 150:1 ratio

INCLUDES: One bottle of Super Lubricating Oil

REQUIRES: Gasoline pump fuel

SPECS: Mixing ratio: 150:1
Bottle size: 250cc (8oz)

COMMENTS: Harmful if swallowed

Mike, if you try it, let us know how many runs you get before your engine seizes. Pardon me for being so skeptical.

Ken

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Ken, you were a little off on the numbers there. 150:1 for will mean 0.8 Oz. per 128 fl. Oz. (1gal). That one bottle will supposedly go in 10 gals. That still puts the overall cost at around $6. I can mix a gal of low nitro/oil glow fuel for weedie conversions for around that much.

If I buy a new Fuji and get a bottle of it, I would probably mix it at 100:1 and use it after the engine has time to break in a little. Potential risks aside, I honestly doubt the power gain, if any at all, is worth the added expense.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I have some synthetic oil that was supposedly tested at 200-1..Someday I'll take an old junk engine and try it..
That less oil makes more power is an urban legend...Anyone who has extensively tested engines and oil ratios know better...
Just the opposite it true....

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Volfy, here is how I arrived at the numbers: (8 oz x 150 = 1200 oz). Yes, I know the mix is really 1208 oz. (1200 oz / 128 = 9.375 gal). ($39.99 / 9.375 gal= $4.2656/gal). Where did you decide that the 8 oz bottle was for 10 gallons? That would be a 160:1 ratio.

All of this is not relevant to Mikes original question. Mike I believe I would stick to the 40:1 for now. Fuji must really believe in their new oil to climb way out on the warranty limb with it.

Volfy, I really miss your dancing rat. Why did you remove the avatar?

Ken

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Ken, I wasn't aware the torque-rolling pig (as one RCUer put it) was gone. I'll have to go put it back. I set up my viewer not to display avatars. Some people's avatars are down right scary, while others are just too provocative to display on an office computer.

I figured 150:1 mix for 128 fl. oz. in a gal. means 128 / 150 = 0.853 fl. oz. Really though, I doubt I can actually pour the difference between 0.8 and 1 fl. oz. Most of the time, I don't bother getting a precise gas/oil mix, as the difference between 40:1 or 25:1 is barely a few drips. I just guestimate it and err on the plus side.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, by all means, put it back.

Warren

My Feedback: (72)

As an aside, Amsoil engineers initially rated their oil at 200:1, lowered it to 100:1 for a safety buffer.

SLINGSHOT-RCU

I think they are saying that the oil is good up to 150-1 .

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

COuld you run the oil at higher ratios and measure the head temp to determine if it is lubricating?

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

sounds like my dad with his chain saws, he shoots for 25:1 and then adds a "little bit" more just to be sure...after watching him i would swear it ends up at 10:1


dave

Diablo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I would never ever judge an oil by engine temperature. I'll give you an extreme example. Drain all the oil out of your car engine and go for a drive while watching the coolant temperature gauge. By the time you register any temperature on the gauge your engine is already toast.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Well now, 10:1 never hurt an engine.

Seriously though, I shoot for 40:1 and add a "little bit", especially if it's for a brand new engine. I do know I've added too much when the blue smoke gets a bit much.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

$39.95 ? Sounds like Tower Hobbies' "friendly" pricing..Like the $100 Walbro carbs that are about $ 50 retail..

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

If I had a way to measure combustion temp I could get an indication of failure.
WIth NO oil, this could be extremaly damaging. If I could messure at the bearing race or someplace where changes in lubrication will cause changes in heat creation this should be able to give an indication.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Exhaust gas temp is a typical parameter used to in closed loop control of fuel mixture control, which has a much greater effect on combustion temp than lack of lubrication. You can possibly monitor upper cylinder temp as it somewhat correlates to 2stroke lubrication effectiveness, assuming everything else is set correctly.

The question is: why bother chasing the hairy edge? Unlike mixture control, the amount of oil isn't going to net you much appreciable power gain, if any. I can see the benefit in the automotive world, where it might make sense to minimize exhaust pollutants for regulation compliance. For us RCers, engine longevity and fault tolerance are much more immediate concerns.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

we have a temp sensors on our big twin racing engine..Head temp about 300F is OK, exhaust temp measured right at the flange on the cylinder is 900f on the straightaways, 850F
in the straights..We adjust the mix right on the edge...Head temp would not react as fast, so we use exhaust temp instead...As for oil, we use 10% oil, the rest methanol...
We had a sponsor once who got some oil that he said was the best, very low mix ratio..We were running an engine on the test stand, leaning the needle by ear..By the time we heard it start to slow down it was too late, stuck the piston hard enough to break the $300 cylinder off the case..We will never again use a lean oil mixture in the fuel..No one can tell me that less oil, ANY brand, gives better performance..Been there....

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Red, isn't 10% oil, 10:1?
That is a little thick isn't it?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

We try to run 10%, sometimes it gets mixed less, but never less than 10 oz/gallon...In addition to lubricating, oil carries away heat, very important in a race engine running on the edge...
Above 900 degrees exhaust temp the engine abruptly stops in mid air, usually at the wrong place. Not a pretty sight trying to deadstick an 87 inch wingspan modified P51 that weighs 45+ lbs....
They don't glide well....[8D]

Diablo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

On Tower's website, the Fuji oil is listed as a petroleum oil!
At $40/ bottle, no wonder they tell you to mix it at 150:1.
Maybe Tower should sell it for $100 a bottle and you can just wave the bottle of oil over your fuel can. I'm glad someone finally surpassed Amsoil 100:1....
Ain't technology wonderful?

jimjel

I run R/C gas boats. My current motors are highly modified water cooled Zenoah 260's. With a tuned pipe the motors put out 5.5-6.0 hp and turn 17k to 18k rpm. Let me assure you, my motors would seize using Fuji oil at 150:1, probably on the first run. I use 8 oz of synthetic oil/gallon which is a 16:1 mix ratio and have never seized a motor. Oil makes power. My oil of choice is Cool Power Blue. Virtually eliminates carbon buildup. Price $17 and change per gallon.

Jim

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Yea, 100:1 is stretching it but 150:1 scares even me.
I understand the need for lubrication, and I understand principle of concentrated liquids. Can we get 1 gallon of protection in less than one ounce?