Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

tkg,
I wasn't planning on bending the reed valve, just the base of the limiter bracket so it presses the base of the reed valve down better. Hopefully, that will do it. Is the reed valve supposed to have a curve in it? Right now, when I remove it, it's flat.

Flypaper 2

The reevalve should be flat. Also if there is a small gap at the end of the reedvalve don't worry about it. When the piston is on its downstroke, crankcase pressure pushes the valve closed.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The phelan coil on the Ryobi is rather weak in the spark department anyway. you will be lucky to get a blue spark from it. You will have to keep your plug gap correct @ .020" and the coil as close to the flyweel as possible without it actually touching.

TK
The 32 McColloch piston and cylinder I got from you guys works really nice. It makes a whole lot more RPM than my Stock one. The one from you was cut down at the base.

Good luck

Jim

ron45

My Feedback: (1)

Get the fuji 32 thats what i"am using on my 1/4 scale tigermoth
Then you won't have the problem your having. it fits real nice in side the narrow cowl.

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

Ron45,
The fuji looks interesting. Does the carb stick out through the cowl on your moth? If I have to have the carb sticking out, I'll leave the homelite in. It's been very reliable and flies the plane well. Also, what 1/4 scale moth do you have?

Thanks,
Jim

ron45

My Feedback: (1)

Yes < it sticks out a little, I got my tigermoth from someone else and they had the cowl already cut. I didn't like it, thats why I went with the fuji 32. It fills the cut that was there nicely.Being a plastic cowl i realy couldn't fix it and I was never told who made the kit. So I did the next best thing I could do. FILL THE HOLE.

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a picture of the Tigermoth in question. Maybe I'm being too picky, but after all the time I spent detailing it, I really hated to have to cut a hole in the cowl. The Ryobi would be such a nice fit.

ron45

My Feedback: (1)

From what I can see you done a real nice job on it. As soon as i can (saturday) I'll put mine together and send you a side view and a front view so you can see how little the carb shows. OK

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

I got the Ryobi running last night, after only a little bit of choking, and it ran fine. I adjusted the needles a little to get a good idle and good transition to high speed. The thing is, when I stopped it and tried to restart...Nothing. No pop or anything. I checked the spark, and didn't get any. Just intermittant. I'm wondering now if something is happening to the coil when it gets hot.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The coil on the Ryobi is rather weak to begin with. You have to have the plug gapped at .020" and the coil about .010" or less but don't let it hit the flywheel.

Then wait till there is a night with no moon. Take the plug out and fasten it to the motor on the out side where you can see the electrodes. Then spin the motor over with an electric starter. You will see a little short duration yellow spark come out of it. You will unlikely ever be able to see anything by turning it over by hand.

It is really not that unusual for a coil to go bad. You'll need another to try on it if you are not getting any spark. I had a Walbro go bad on a Homelite. It would make a spark in the above situation but was intermittant when running. New coils are expensive at around $40.

The Walbro coils are a lot hotter if you could find one that would fit. Don't know that they ever came on a Ryobi though.

If your looking for another junk Ryobi engine to steal a coil from, don't forget that there are other names on those. Lawn Boy, Ryan, Sears, Toro, and others. Some Ryobi coils have RPM limiters in them that won't let the engine run much more than 7,000.

Good luck,

Jim

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

Jim,
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I'll have to start looking for something to rob a coil from and try it out.

Jim