TCraft Lover

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Hello All,
I'm looking at hobbypartz web site at the ASP.36 2 stroke motors. Can anyone tell me the difference between the S36A and the S36AII engines? http://www.hobbypartz.com/2strokeengines.htmlw.
Thanks.</p>

earlwb

I do not think that there is a external difference between the A and AII versions. But if there is a difference, it is whether there is a remote needle valve or not. These all seem to be alleged ASP engines as the ones I received do not have a ASP brand marking on the side of the crankcase. Other than that, the ones I ran all worked OK. I did not encounter any problems running them.

TCraft Lover

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Thanks Earlwb,
The photos on this web site are rather bizarre in that they show some motors without carbs or without mufflers and all have an ASP emblem cast into the crankcase wall. I'm suspicious of this web site. (Too good to be true prices) Have you or anyone else purchased from this web site before?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

ASP sells bare engines without carbs and mufflers through some vendors. These type short blocks are shown in some of the pictures but the prices are not any different than the full complete engines?

TCraft Lover

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Holy Buckets,
I guess you had better know what you're ordering then!!

earlwb

I call these engines from Hobby Partz or Nitroplanes "Alleged ASP" or "Generic" engines as they do not have a brand marking on the crankcase.
Yes have bought several of these alleged ASP engines from HobbyPartz.
All of the engines came without a brand name marking on the side of the crankcase. I assume the other engines are the same as well. The 15's, 25's, 28's, 36's and 52's have no brand marking on the side. Now the little 09, and little 15 both have a AP brand name on the crankcase. They are advertised as being ASP engines and are likely made in the same factory using the same castings, etc. The large 15's look like the Magnum brand with the blue cylinder head, etc.
So far each engine I ran had worked out just fine. I had tested a 28 a while back and it worked fine. The 21, 25 and 28 engines use a long connecting rod design of which I am unfamiliar with, I don't think it was a copy unless it is a European design of some type.

Today I tested a 36A version and it worked out quite well too. it looks like the regular OS and ThunderTiger types of 36 engines.
The 36A has impressed me a lot. It turned a Master Airscrew 10x6 propeller at 12,800 RPMs. A 9x6 MA prop was turning at about 14,500 rpms. Idle worked down to 2,100 and 2,200 rpms quite well and I got it to idle down to 2,000 rpms as well. I only had to tweak the lowspeed needle a tiny bit to have it idle good. The high speed needle was on the rich side right out of the box, but easily tweaked to get it to run good.
Both engines are ABC designs with the cylinder piston arrangement.

A year or so ago, I had messed with some ASP four cycle engines from Hobby King, and I had to fix the carbs before the engines would work OK. I needed to adjust the valves as well. Both of the ASP 61 four cycle engines acted like the valve guides were a little loose as although the engines would idle, they tended to load up and smoke for a second when you gave them the throttle. But the engines worked well if I ran 15% or 20% nitro glow fuel through them. They didn't like the 5% glow fuel I regularly use.

Previously, years before, the Magnum engines I dealt with all had bad carbs. I had to replace the carbs as I couldn't fix them. Which kills the cost savings if you don't have extra carbs in your parts box. But this new crop of alleged ASP engines all seem to have good carbs.No swarf inside. Are easy to setup and run as I didn't have to fix or correct anything.

I have noticed a number of people over tightening the screws on the engines, not just these either. The crankcase and muffler and carb are aluminum which can be quite soft. so be gentle, not hamfisted when tightening the screws. I use a small dab of blue locktite on the two little carb screws. Use care when installing the carb and screws as it is easy to cross thread the screws. also you need to push down on the carb hard to compress the O-ring slightly or the two screws won't quite be able to screw in.

Here is a pic of a Generic 28A engine from Hobby Partz.


Here is the Generic 36A engine from Hobby Partz:

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The carbs are the same on several different brands of Chinese engines. Apparently Sanye either do not make the carbs or they make them for the other guys?

TCraft Lover

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You two have convinced me. I gues it's time to order one. Thanx for the insights.

earlwb

Here is a short video I made running the Generic 36A engine, that I got from Hobby Parts a little while ago, today. I was using a 10x6 MA propeller with 5% nitro glow fuel. Using a 9x6 MA prop had it turning about 14,500 rpms too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYi-t-aFX-E

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYi-t-aFX-E[/youtube]

TCraft Lover

My Feedback: (1)

Good video Earl,
Were you using 5% Omega and an APC 10-6?

earlwb

Master Airscrew 10x6 and yes it was Omega 5% with a blend of synthetic and castor oil.

dditch

I just ordered a .15 myself (airplane version with the side muffler) from [link=http://bit.ly/9zFxM2]HobbyPartz[/link] cause they have free shipping going on!

TCraft Lover

My Feedback: (1)

Cheapest dag gone engines I ever saw!! Almost too good to be true.

earlwb

I believe that these "Generic" engines to be considered disposable. When they quit working you toss it and get another. Getting replacement parts will be highly unlikely. So the question winds up being how long to they last before they wear out. Plus whether the quality is pretty consistent and not hit and miss or the luck of the draw on getting a good engine or not.

jeffie8696

It seems to me the carbs on these are held on with 2 screws unlike the cross bar Ihave on my others . Wonder why.

earlwb

I have seen the crossbar locknut method cause the carb barrel in the carb body to bind up. I had a couple of engines that really aggravated me to no end because of the crossbar causing the carb to jam up. If you loosened it enough to work, the nut would fall off on you when the engine was running. Plus the stupid threads for the nut were some weird JIIS thread standard and not even a metric or SAE nut would fit.
What you really hated was when the crankcase warped a little because of the cross nut getting tightened up. it would cause some binding or extra friction to occur when you turned the crankshaft.

I suggest using a small dab of Blue Locktite on the two little screws. It might keep the screw's threaded body from unscrewing into the carb with the engine running while you are flying the plane when the screw head snaps off. That has happened to a couple of guys already. But it is a rare occurrence though.
Be gentle putting in the screws, quite a few people have stripped out or cross threaded the two screws going into the carb base

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

I just won a NIB ASP 108A on *bay with a bunch of other stuff.

Has anyone ever had an experience with one of these engines back-firing in the air and running backwards?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I had one for a few years. I ran it on the bench. was very straight forward, no surprises and no back fires

Hobbsy has owned it for about 7 yrs.

jeffie8696

Ihave only seen the crossbar jam a carb once.
I normally like the crossbar method since if installed correctly it will pull the carb down slightly against the oring.
The twin screw method like used on OS engines might lead to some parts interchange. Weak spot with most cheap engines is the carb, if you could bolt on a good OScarb from your worn out OS whatever you may have a really nice running engine for cheap.

earlwb

That is the first I heard of that happening. Makes me think the owner used too much nitro content fuel and or had a loose glow plug too. Then he went low on the throttle, the engine was overheated, and it backfired and unscrewed the prop nut, spinner, etc. I beleive that the Asian market engines have high compression as nitromethane is expensive so they don't use it much. Same issue with many European engines. Especially the gray market ones that make it into the USA.

I have a 1.08 also, still NIB, I haven't come up with a plane for it yet.

jeffie8696

Love the low nitro engines !

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The last 108's had no special need for low nitro fuel or other special treatment.

They were just a start it and fly it engine. No big event.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The early ASP 1.08 Redhead would backfire if set too lean. Especially while running more than 5% nitro fuel. The instructions from Indy R/C (importer) said to install the included extra head gasket if more than 5% nitro, or an extra large prop, were going to be used. Some folks just don't bother to read the instructions, apparently.

I have two of the latest model ASP 1.08 engines, but both are still NIB. They look great. Does that count? <G>


Ed Cregger

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

And there you have it...

earlwb

Ok, I can confirm that the AII engine's have a remote needle valve carb on them and the A engine's have the regular non-remote needle valve carbs on them. Other than that they are the same engines.
A couple of guys bought some of the Generic engines and that is how they came in.









Not a good sign, some rust on the screws and stuff in the bag.