Saito 80 will NOT start! IDEAS??
#1
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I have a Saito .80 that I purchased used and according to former owner, the engine is in running condition. However, I can NOT get the engine to "fire", much less run. I ran several other engines on the test stand using the same fuel, etc. The glow plug has been replaced TWICE. Any ideas would be appreciated. THANK YOU
#4
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Are you getting any fuel thru the engine? Out the exhuast lets say?
You say you have compression! That means the valves are seated. But are they both opening? Have you checked that? [&:]
You say you have compression! That means the valves are seated. But are they both opening? Have you checked that? [&:]
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What are your needle setings?
My Satio 80 has been a wonderful engine (8 yrs old). Don't give up there are lots of motor heads around here that will give you plenty of ideas.
Marcus
My Satio 80 has been a wonderful engine (8 yrs old). Don't give up there are lots of motor heads around here that will give you plenty of ideas.
Marcus
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Main needle valve open 2 turns, then tried 3 turns. The engine will NOT sputter or give any sign of firing. If I work on the basis the previous owner did NOT have the engine running, is there valve or crankshaft timing that I need to check? THANKS again for the responses.
#7
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Do you have any of the engine manuals? If not, I could scan and email you some of the that.
In the mean time has the previous ower ever had this engine running at all? Probably didn't tell you but maybe he disassembled it ? Let hope not.
Are you getting any fuel thru the engine? Is the glow plug getting wet? If not I suspect the valves aren't opening or not at the proper time. (Someone has taken it apart)
Is the Chock plate still installed? Alot of the early Saito's had them. Is open or closed?
[&:]
In the mean time has the previous ower ever had this engine running at all? Probably didn't tell you but maybe he disassembled it ? Let hope not.
Are you getting any fuel thru the engine? Is the glow plug getting wet? If not I suspect the valves aren't opening or not at the proper time. (Someone has taken it apart)
Is the Chock plate still installed? Alot of the early Saito's had them. Is open or closed?
[&:]
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Almost whatever is wrong with it, you should still be getting it to fire if fuel is getting to the cylinder, and the glow plug is glowing.
Are you sure the glow igniter is making a good connection with the plug?
-David C.
Are you sure the glow igniter is making a good connection with the plug?
-David C.
#9
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I have a new Saito 91 - manual should be close enough??? I hope
Previous owner said the engine runs perfectly. I do not know if it has been disassembled.
Fuel flows through the engine and the plug is wet. The chock plate is not on this engine.
My glow plug battery has a meter and indicates "green". The plug and glow ignitor works in my Saito 65.
Previous owner said the engine runs perfectly. I do not know if it has been disassembled.
Fuel flows through the engine and the plug is wet. The chock plate is not on this engine.
My glow plug battery has a meter and indicates "green". The plug and glow ignitor works in my Saito 65.
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if there is compression, fuel in the cylinder, the plug is hot... still not even a pop, that is weird and I dont know what to say.
Are you hand flipping or using a starter?
My FA80 has allmost too much compression, it is a beast to hand flip.
AJC
Are you hand flipping or using a starter?
My FA80 has allmost too much compression, it is a beast to hand flip.
AJC
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You can check the timimg but its not without difficultly. Briefly, take the valvle covers off as well as remove the glow plug. Bring the piston to the top of its travel and rock the drive washer back and forth, both valves should move equal distances but in opposite directions (if not rotate 180 deg). If you can't see this then the timming could be off. To check the timming remove the cam gear housing. You should see a small dot on the cam gear. This dot is supposed to be at 6 o'clock. The tricky part is getting the housing reseated with out moving the dot from 6 o'clock. It's possible but a small timming tool described in one of the RCM books about Satio's really helps. I can do it without the tool but then I make absoulty sure that when I rock the drive washer on either side of TDC I get equal travel of the valves (dial indicator helps). I found it useful when not using the timming tool to intentially mis-set the timing so I could observe what unequal travel of the valves look/feels like.
You can always send it to Horizon and they will fix it right up. I have had good service from them on my Satios.
Marcus
You can always send it to Horizon and they will fix it right up. I have had good service from them on my Satios.
Marcus
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First, try the needle. My Saito 91 toady's needle setting - 3 and a half turns out for maximum RPM.
10% nitro, 18% synthetic oil, 13X10 MA prop, 9050 RPM, OS F plug, 25C and almost 100% humidity. Electric starter is a must.
Mine will never start with 2 or 2,5 turns, probably, never with 3 turns.
I don't believe those 3 and half turns myself, but it is true.
10% nitro, 18% synthetic oil, 13X10 MA prop, 9050 RPM, OS F plug, 25C and almost 100% humidity. Electric starter is a must.
Mine will never start with 2 or 2,5 turns, probably, never with 3 turns.
I don't believe those 3 and half turns myself, but it is true.
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Personally ,
I'd take it to the former owner and say "OK, if its in running condition then run it!" Sounds like you got screwed!
Max
AJ's right ! It at least ought to fire!
I'd take it to the former owner and say "OK, if its in running condition then run it!" Sounds like you got screwed!
Max
AJ's right ! It at least ought to fire!
#18
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Just finished checking the timing and appears to be "PERFECT". Too much snow and cold today - so I will probably attempt to start sometime next week. I also opened the needle valve to FIVE turns per instructions on my new Saito 91. Thanks for the input.
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My money is on the low end needle....if it's not getting fuel in the proper
mixture....at an idle setting (or fast idle) the engine will not start and run
properly, no matter what, and the high speed needle adjustment wont help.
Adjust the idle stop screw so that the carb barrel is open 1mm. Open the
main needle 3 turns. Close the idle screw in gently till it's bottomed out.
Put a length of fuel line on to the fuel inlet nipple....blow in the line, and open
the low speed needle until you hear air start to escape into the the carb.
(hold the carb right up to your ear) Open the needle an additional 1/2 turn
out....counter clockwise.
Hold a finger over the outlet of the exhaust pipe, and spin the motor over
for a few seconds with the electric starter....watch the carb....you should see
a mist blowing out of the carb. Is this is the case....hook up the glow heater
and spin the motor over again....it should start instantly. Reset the idle stop screw.
Dave.
mixture....at an idle setting (or fast idle) the engine will not start and run
properly, no matter what, and the high speed needle adjustment wont help.
Adjust the idle stop screw so that the carb barrel is open 1mm. Open the
main needle 3 turns. Close the idle screw in gently till it's bottomed out.
Put a length of fuel line on to the fuel inlet nipple....blow in the line, and open
the low speed needle until you hear air start to escape into the the carb.
(hold the carb right up to your ear) Open the needle an additional 1/2 turn
out....counter clockwise.
Hold a finger over the outlet of the exhaust pipe, and spin the motor over
for a few seconds with the electric starter....watch the carb....you should see
a mist blowing out of the carb. Is this is the case....hook up the glow heater
and spin the motor over again....it should start instantly. Reset the idle stop screw.
Dave.
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#20
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THANK YOU for all of the response messages. Those who "bet" on the needle valve settings WIN. After checking timing, I removed the needle valve assembly, cleaned to ensure no blockage, adjusted FIVE turns open and verified low speed was not in too far causing blockage and started the engine immediately. Regards, Richard
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ORIGINAL: parkavenue
THANK YOU for all of the response messages. Those who "bet" on the needle valve settings WIN. After checking timing, I removed the needle valve assembly, cleaned to ensure no blockage, adjusted FIVE turns open and verified low speed was not in too far causing blockage and started the engine immediately. Regards, Richard
THANK YOU for all of the response messages. Those who "bet" on the needle valve settings WIN. After checking timing, I removed the needle valve assembly, cleaned to ensure no blockage, adjusted FIVE turns open and verified low speed was not in too far causing blockage and started the engine immediately. Regards, Richard
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#23
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Well, considering the sub-zero temperature, non-stop snow storms, I finally ventured out of doors today and figured I would either listen to the Saito run or "shoot the crazy thing". Regards and thanks for input. You would think after half a century of playing with these things that I would "stumble" on the obvious with much ease. Maybe in my old age these things are TOO TECHNICAL. [>:]