Jezmo

I am always amazed at the problems folks have with ST engines. After a proper break-in (my ST's have usually taken longer than my OS's to break in; sometimes up to 3 gallons of fuel) the engines have performed flawlessly without any transition issues at all. I have owned S40's and S45's from 20 yrs ago up to the new Chinese made G40, G45, G51, and G90. I have inherited G40's from people that crashed trying to learn and they had split cases that I welded up and they ran flawless as well. As much as I read on this forum about bad ST's and their junk carbureters, I consider myself very fortunate to have never owned a bad one. I think I will keep picking up those shiny new heads up pennies. [8D]

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

A smaller carb would have greatly improved its hovering reliability.

boex

Well, in fact I do own a 2300 and unfortunately because of my style of flying, it has proven to be the wrong engine. I think Ed got it right, this is not an engine for 3D flying. Yesterday, my 2300 quit yet again in flight and I had to make an emergency landing damaging LG and parts of the fuselage. Here is low rez pic taken by my webcam.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thankyou boex, what prop and fuel are you running, I run mine on Fox 5% nitro fuel with 20% castor oil. It currently is a Diesel.

djlyon

Both my Italian and Chinese 2300s run rather well in the plane in my Avatar. I think most of you know what it is. Not what I call a 3D, but it'll strain your engine and fuel supply when put through it's paces. It's amazing I've never had the problems some of you guys seem to have with Super Tigres including the 2300s.

Denis

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

There is no way I would fly a two-stroke glow engine powered model without checking the high speed needle after the engine warmed up, Tcrafty, even if I flew it yesterday.

It is not a badge of honor to neglect properly tuning your two-stroke glow engine in this manner. All it demonstrates is that you are not truly familiar with glow two-stroke engines. I have been scratching my head over the blossoming of this phenomena for the last couple of years. Maybe it is being exposed to four-stroke glow engines and gas two and four-stroke engines that has permitted this misconception to flourish.

Engines talk to you when you understand their language. Enough exposure to them tells you that there could be some congealed oil residue in the carb that needs to melt away after the engine runs for a while. Then, once warmed up, you stand a chance of properly adjusting the engine.

Why do glow two-strokes need adjustment every day? Simple. They have much higher compression than gasoline fueled two-strokes. The higher the compression, the more likely it is that the engine will need readjustment. Because no two days are absolutely identical in temperature/humidity/barometric pressure, is another reason why they need adjustment before the first flight of the day.

Glow engines without pumps/regulators are at the mercy of their grossly too large carburetors. Slight differences in atmospherics can make huge differences in the mixture from day to day, or even on the same day if a pressure system is moving through the vicinity.

Additionally, glow plugs are not fixed timing devices in the way that spark ignition systems are. Again, atmospherics makes a big difference to a glow engines "timing".

I apologize if you know all of this already. But there are plenty of readers that will do anything (rationalizing) in their minds to avoid having to adjust a needle valve when they are unsure of themselves. I would rather see them become needle tweakers than to passively watch while their engine gets smoked from running too lean.


Ed Cregger

XJet

You are right Ed -- but don't you find it incredible that so many other manufacturers (OS, Thunder Tigre, etc) have been able to design and build engines that, despite the changing humidity, barometric pressure, temperature, etc, are pretty much just "fuel, glow, flick and fly" day after day, week after week?

I fly almost every weekend (and often during the week too), summer and winter. I honestly can't remember the last time I had to adjust the needle valve on any of my TT46Pro engines or my Saito 4-strokes.

Good engine design can significantly mitigate the effects you describe -- SuperTigre just isn't a good engine design, it's now a very dated design that's showing its age. It may still be good value for money but that's only because they're so damned cheap.

I still buy the occasional ST but only because (with the aid of my lathe, mill, and other gear in my workshop) I can get them to run pretty well. However, most of the time I just buy a "better" engine that doesn't require so much messing around and which allows me to fly rather than fiddle.

Horses for courses though -- I'm glad some folks still find ST to be good engines (for their particular needs) and I'll give Bax credit where it's due, their after-sales support is legendary.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

You can tell by ear too without having to retune every time if you know your engine well.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It is okay to disagree. After all, 99% of the information on the forums is merely someone's opinion. The reader will have to sort out the information for themselves.


Ed Cregger

TCrafty

Well, I had to fiddle with the carb on my 2300 this morning. First flight out, I went straight up, cut the throttle to bring it around and it stayed at wide open! At least for a few seconds. Then it idled down-- sort of. I could get it to change throttle settings but it wouldn't idle down. I did A LOT of touch and go's until I had one that was slow enough that i started making circles (we fly in a big field). They got progressively smaller and smaller and the taller grass helped slow it down until I could grab it. I was ready to sacrifice a prop but then it started slowing down a little. I pulled the carb apart and found LOTS of shavings in the groove on the barrel. I never had the carb apart since new so I'm not sure if they are from a burr or what. It's interesting that the carb worked fine today until that happened. I shut it off with the transmitter and everything. I'm not sure yet what the cause was but I know what the problem is. Now, the barrel won't go back into the carb body all the way. it goes in about 1/2 - 2/3 of the way and stops dead. Right about when the groove in the barrel gets to the body. I'll be checking for burrs on the groove tonight. I have some pics of what I found at the field when I tore it apart.

boex

I don't think my problem lies with the fuel nor with the prop. The fuel I use contains 18% of a mixture of synthetic and castor oil and 5% nitro. The prop is a 17x6 IMAC APC, which is properly balanced and in good shape. As far as the location of tank and other aspects of my setup, it was done as per instructions.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

Mr Cregger has a very good point. How do you know where your hs needle should be set without adjusting it? I suppose you go by the tach? Well, that's not really going to help much. If you know your engine should turn 9000, and you check it on the first start of the day, it could be turning 9000, and you could assume it is set right. If the last time you flew it was much warmer, and you peaked out the hs needle, you could be dangerously lean on a cooler day at the same rpm. Point being that the peak rpm will vary from one day to the next. That being said, how can you know that you are 500 rpm rich of peak if you don't know where peak is?

I set mine each time I fly. However, I use my ear to be sure I'm on the rich side of peak rpm. I only use a tach as a point of reference, not necessarily for tuning.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Exactly, I do it for every flight. I'll start it up and dial it in a just run it for a couple minutes and redial it again. Settings change after they get warm.

RCHUGHES

I Have never had any issues with my Super Tigre. I've had it about 7 mounths now and only had to ajust the needle once and that was last week when it was 90 degres and 100% humidity with the Density Altitude at like 1800 feet. Its funny how so many people say these Engine are no good and this and that and this or and that is bad on it. Personally When we went to break the engine in it about started on its on. We flipped the prop back to get it ready for the starter and it started with out us even flipping the prop. First time I have ever seen that. (Super Tigre .90)

I also had a super Tigre .45 that I just gave back to my uncle, that had been crashed and the case was welded back together and It runs great. (its also 10-15 years old)

All my glows that i will buy will be super Tigre and I don't think anyone can convince me oto change my mind.

TCrafty

RCHUGHES,

My 2300 impressed me with how quickly it started on the first start. Same thing, just a quick blip and it was running.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The G2300 is a very pleasant to handle engine regarding starting, etc. My original Redhead ASP 1.08 was the same way. It wanted to run for you. <G>


Ed Cregger

rudder turns

Hi Guys,I reciently baught the china version Super Tiger 2300 for my DP ultimate bipe.Broke It In.using a 16x8 apc prop,brison pitts muffler 1pipe pluged,os f plug,using NEW 7/1/2% fuel.Top end great,idle satisfactory,mid range horriable,[&o]I rotated the barrel as some suggested,no big difference.Frustrated another rc guy also haveing a st2300 with no problems said try my fuel,5% S&W.WOW what a difference,Mid range was great,idle steady,pleanty of power,so I put on a 18X6 apc,Great Power,Pulled that DP ultimate straight up with no end in sight.Don't go crazy,get the 5% and enjoy.

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

I don't think ST will ever change the carbs until it hits them in thepocket. When I began learning tuning, I started with a Super tigre. I tore the carb down, cleaned it in fuel and reassembled it. Then I had to practice the art of tuning the carb and as Ed pointed out you have to learn the sound. I am convinced that OS seized the market because they made their carbs user friendly such as the 7d(toilet bowl). The biggest thing the user has to overcome with ST is the breakin of the piston/sleeve. MVVS engines are also like this. They don't break in for months but when they do, you notice a sweet spot in the power curve and tuning becomes much easier.

RumpleDogskin

You are wrong. We make the stickers that say "Made in China" here !!!!

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

Hi there boex, I had a 2300 quit on me yesterday and had tthe same situation as you did. I'm new to the 2300. I recently picked up a Quique 72" yak with the 2300. I mostly fly OS engines. I have a perry pump 0n the 2300. This engine will run great for about 5 minutes. If I do a reverse cuban 8, it will idle down and not recover on the rpms after going inverted and pulling through this manuver. I'm thinking about taking off the pump and trying it. It ran well before without the pump for the previous owner. Engine temp is not the issue. It was 149 deg on an 80 deg day. If anyone is running a perry pump? What is your ball park settings on engine and pump? Thanks guys.

Pippin

Italian industry is well known for Italian shoes and hand bags. The same may be said about Chinese industries until now.

Therefor, I can not see why Chinese made ST's should be different.

Before China became a main exporter of consumer goods Italian products had a reputation similar to the Chinese nowadays. Maybe, there is hardly any difference in skills between Sicilian and Chinese farm hands pushed into factories.