Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.
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Hi Dick,
I use the "Vanessa Rig" to balance all my models. Takes about half an hour to build and is then ready for any balancing jobs. Mine lives in place hanging from the roof truss above my bench.
http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plum...%20Machine.htm
Cheers,
Colin
I use the "Vanessa Rig" to balance all my models. Takes about half an hour to build and is then ready for any balancing jobs. Mine lives in place hanging from the roof truss above my bench.
http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plum...%20Machine.htm
Cheers,
Colin
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Hi Dick,
Glad that I was able to help. I wish I had a dollar for all the tips and great advice I've picked up on this site and its' predecessor over the years.![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Cheers,
Colin
Glad that I was able to help. I wish I had a dollar for all the tips and great advice I've picked up on this site and its' predecessor over the years.
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Cheers,
Colin
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Equip...your awesome, dude! Sent a package of flex point hinges on Monday and got them Friday. Two big thumbs way up, buddy! Good to know the spirit is still alive. Paying it forward is a good feeling, receiving is wicked too! ;}~
Well after that said...I'm not using them. I have had fellow club mates insisting I use a pin type hinge. "You'll regret it", "not smart to use 'em" etc. have been some of the comments so far. So I bit the bullet and began to tear off the covering I started and fix now rather than after a potential disaster. I did the best I could to cause the least amount of damage digging the 9 flex points I had in the tail. This allowed for a few modifications just cuz I could. I reinforced the counter balance middle joint in the elevators with 2mm CF rod epoxied through the leading edge. I noticed a twist in that area with a bit of force before and one had let go during the process of the fix. Solid now!![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I replaced the hinges with Robarts #308's. 5 in the rudder and 3 each elevator with attention paid to beefing up those points at the same time.
I have now covered the fuse in Monocote Metallic Blue rather than Oracover Pearl Blue. The pearl is uber expensive to buy a pint of paint (and all the additives) for the cowl and pants from the local auto parts shop. The Mono has an off the shelf match paint by Plasti-cote. Bumber stuff to boot (more flex agent). Almost the exact same color as my ol' '75 Chevy Shaggin' Wagon! Redondo Blue. Now to do the wings, inter-plane struts and then re-do the trim.
Gonna dye the Dubro fiber gear too. Dunno about blue or black but the beige has gotta go!![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Awaiting a new DLE 20 ignition and Rexcel tach from Valleyview R/C, a Tech-Aero Ultra IBEC and my remaining electrics from HK then I can actually look forward to a maiden!!!
Well after that said...I'm not using them. I have had fellow club mates insisting I use a pin type hinge. "You'll regret it", "not smart to use 'em" etc. have been some of the comments so far. So I bit the bullet and began to tear off the covering I started and fix now rather than after a potential disaster. I did the best I could to cause the least amount of damage digging the 9 flex points I had in the tail. This allowed for a few modifications just cuz I could. I reinforced the counter balance middle joint in the elevators with 2mm CF rod epoxied through the leading edge. I noticed a twist in that area with a bit of force before and one had let go during the process of the fix. Solid now!
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I replaced the hinges with Robarts #308's. 5 in the rudder and 3 each elevator with attention paid to beefing up those points at the same time.
I have now covered the fuse in Monocote Metallic Blue rather than Oracover Pearl Blue. The pearl is uber expensive to buy a pint of paint (and all the additives) for the cowl and pants from the local auto parts shop. The Mono has an off the shelf match paint by Plasti-cote. Bumber stuff to boot (more flex agent). Almost the exact same color as my ol' '75 Chevy Shaggin' Wagon! Redondo Blue. Now to do the wings, inter-plane struts and then re-do the trim.
Gonna dye the Dubro fiber gear too. Dunno about blue or black but the beige has gotta go!
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Awaiting a new DLE 20 ignition and Rexcel tach from Valleyview R/C, a Tech-Aero Ultra IBEC and my remaining electrics from HK then I can actually look forward to a maiden!!!
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Cowl and pants are painted...matches pretty friggen close if not perfect depending on the light. Fuse is pretty much done save a couple of electronics that should arrive early next week.
Would doubling up the wing tip hinges be overkill on this? My PRC 29% S'bach is doubled up this way. I have four of the Robarts #308s in each aileron now with added material to the TE for each hinge.
Would doubling up the wing tip hinges be overkill on this? My PRC 29% S'bach is doubled up this way. I have four of the Robarts #308s in each aileron now with added material to the TE for each hinge.
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Waiting for HK to get the LiFe's in (which also has my twisted extensions on that order) and the arrival of the servo's which are on their way. The tach and ignition arrived from Valley View along with a couple other goodies! Jody is top notch in my book!
Put the tach in the Ulti's dash.
The Tech Aero Ultra IBEC is a very simple to use unit that sets up super easy and installs just as fast. Set my output voltage to the factory default 5.3v via the jumpers and secured them with tape to the unit (just for my peace of mind). I modified a rivet to accommodate the system LED and installed on the choke side. Plugged it in to the gear channel on the RX. Fail safe set to the off position and everything works nicely. No need to step down the voltage before the RX and works as a kill switch. Perfect!!!
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The Tech Aero Ultra IBEC is a very simple to use unit that sets up super easy and installs just as fast. Set my output voltage to the factory default 5.3v via the jumpers and secured them with tape to the unit (just for my peace of mind). I modified a rivet to accommodate the system LED and installed on the choke side. Plugged it in to the gear channel on the RX. Fail safe set to the off position and everything works nicely. No need to step down the voltage before the RX and works as a kill switch. Perfect!!!
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For LiFe try EP Buddy, good quality and he is here in the US, they have standard balance connectors too. I use them for the last 2 years
A 2300 is 28 bucks and well build. You find him at www or even on Ebay, verry frindly person on the phone too.
my 2 cents on LiFe here
Michael
A 2300 is 28 bucks and well build. You find him at www or even on Ebay, verry frindly person on the phone too.
my 2 cents on LiFe here
Michael
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ORIGINAL: Revy
Waiting for HK to get the LiFe's in (which also has my twisted extensions on that order) and the arrival of the servo's which are on their way. The tach and ignition arrived from Valley View along with a couple other goodies! Jody is top notch in my book!
Put the tach in the Ulti's dash.
The Tech Aero Ultra IBEC is a very simple to use unit that sets up super easy and installs just as fast. Set my output voltage to the factory default 5.3v via the jumpers and secured them with tape to the unit (just for my peace of mind). I modified a rivet to accommodate the system LED and installed on the choke side. Plugged it in to the gear channel on the RX. Fail safe set to the off position and everything works nicely. No need to step down the voltage before the RX and works as a kill switch. Perfect!!!
Waiting for HK to get the LiFe's in (which also has my twisted extensions on that order) and the arrival of the servo's which are on their way. The tach and ignition arrived from Valley View along with a couple other goodies! Jody is top notch in my book!
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The Tech Aero Ultra IBEC is a very simple to use unit that sets up super easy and installs just as fast. Set my output voltage to the factory default 5.3v via the jumpers and secured them with tape to the unit (just for my peace of mind). I modified a rivet to accommodate the system LED and installed on the choke side. Plugged it in to the gear channel on the RX. Fail safe set to the off position and everything works nicely. No need to step down the voltage before the RX and works as a kill switch. Perfect!!!
I do not know if I miss something, but I can notice a lateral hatch on the fuse, what is it for?
Alfred.
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Thanks, Alfred. That hatch is an access for the electrics when it's all put together. Just used the existing punch out , lightened it up and it attaches with four 3/8" Dubro cap screws. Once I get all the electrics and LiFe installed I'll snap a few pics as to where everything is placed.
Jason
Jason
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Peeled my YS 120 guzzler out, converedt to DLE20 with a 16X8 Mejchlik on it and it performs just as good with 8 oz less wet 3 oz more dry
No differece eccept the DLE spools up a little slower. Firewall holds up just fine and so far not any issues
You can find pictures in earlyer post here, and in my profile here in the universe
Michael
PS: i enjoy flipping it and off she goes, and no more castor mess
No differece eccept the DLE spools up a little slower. Firewall holds up just fine and so far not any issues
You can find pictures in earlyer post here, and in my profile here in the universe
Michael
PS: i enjoy flipping it and off she goes, and no more castor mess
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Hmmm, $269 at tower...
I may have to rethink the power plant.
With the cost of nitro so high, flying on gas woudl be real nice!
i wonder how my Ultra Sport 1000 would do on that... the old OS 120 FS (non surpass) is getting tired.
Bill S.
I may have to rethink the power plant.
With the cost of nitro so high, flying on gas woudl be real nice!
i wonder how my Ultra Sport 1000 would do on that... the old OS 120 FS (non surpass) is getting tired.
Bill S.
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JEPP with super saver membership up to 50 bucks off, and free shipping it was 219 for mine, cant get a decent Glow machine for that bit money. Converted both my Ultimates, 1 Profile 90 sizer and save a bundle on not using Nitro Fuel anymore, and like mentioned, no more Glow clutter and mess anymore. Couple Allen wrenches and a screwdriver in the Pocket, thats it.
Give it a chance, belive me works perfect.
Michael
Give it a chance, belive me works perfect.
Michael
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Hi guys, new here. I have aquired a kit but without plans so you can see what my problem is. Can anyone help me out with either an original or copied set of plans? Im in the uk as well
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Came across this site by chance.........the ULTIMATE Brotherhood. Here's my CG Ultimate 10-300 ARF. Power plant Saito 120. This bi-plane is light. The Saito 120 is heavier than the Saito 125A. One thing to keep in mind about this bi-plane " All hinge lines should be sealed to prevent flutter". My hinge line is quite tight, but experienced some flutter on my test flight. Sealing the hinge lines cured the problem. I also reinforced the landing gear as you'll notice from the pictures.
Charles
Saito Brotherhood #87
Charles
Saito Brotherhood #87