Throttle control
#1
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Throttle control
I am having trouble getting the throttle not sensitive on my model 117. I have a continues problem that as i advance the throttle i can get it to were it will lift the heli up but then when i back the stick down 1 click it falls. I have learned to kind of work the stick up and down to keep a good hover. Is this normal?
#2
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RE: Throttle control
Do you have a programmabe radio? Set the throttle so it is full open at the full throw of the throttle gimble, not like 3/4.
Ps, you can do this with expo.
Ps, you can do this with expo.
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RE: Throttle control
Still doing it?
Change your expo so soften the center stick so the servo barely moves when the gimble is moving around center but moves a lot more at the ends of the throws.
That should give you more control.
Change your expo so soften the center stick so the servo barely moves when the gimble is moving around center but moves a lot more at the ends of the throws.
That should give you more control.
#5
RE: Throttle control
You have a mechanical problem not an electronic problem.
Open up your transmitter and place a piece of fuel tubing over the spring that causes the ratchet on the throttle to 'click' up and down. The spring and the fuel tubing keep enough friction on the throttle to keep it relativily constant and the fuel tubing lets the teeth on the throttle slide instead of click. After this mod you'll have just the right amount of power for that hands off hover. Been flying a 110+ and/or a Corona since '96.
Tom
Open up your transmitter and place a piece of fuel tubing over the spring that causes the ratchet on the throttle to 'click' up and down. The spring and the fuel tubing keep enough friction on the throttle to keep it relativily constant and the fuel tubing lets the teeth on the throttle slide instead of click. After this mod you'll have just the right amount of power for that hands off hover. Been flying a 110+ and/or a Corona since '96.
Tom
#6
RE: Throttle control
Turning the "leaf spring" upside down also works. Fuel tubing might be a little too much, but I suppose it all depends on what brand tx you use. For my JR8103, I used heat-shrink and it worked perfectly.
The trick of the throttle curve is getting it so that the rotor head spools up just under the power needed to lift off with the first bit of throttle throw. Then use the rest of the available throttle throw to smoothly adjust power. The curve should rise quickly to the first point then gradually rising from there. It just takes a bit of experimentation to get it dialed in. It makes sense to use all the same weight battery packs so that things are consistent.
The trick of the throttle curve is getting it so that the rotor head spools up just under the power needed to lift off with the first bit of throttle throw. Then use the rest of the available throttle throw to smoothly adjust power. The curve should rise quickly to the first point then gradually rising from there. It just takes a bit of experimentation to get it dialed in. It makes sense to use all the same weight battery packs so that things are consistent.